Steel Aquarium Stand (96x36x35H) Tanks Size (96x36x30) Help
- Thread starter Ronantoon
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Is the bulkhead in the ceiling for duct work to go under the beam? I am going to need to know what size the beam is (heavy black line assumed). The best is if you have a set of plans, alternatively I need beam depth, flange width and flange thickness. I am assuming it is steel, it is possibly wood or glulam. Need to know this.
Also where the wall is on the right side you may need to put blocking in those joists depending on where the tank ends up. Joists like this are a pain in the *** as they are not typically designed for concentrated loads. Solid wood joists would have been better but we have what have.
The left side is a bit messier as it is on joists only. You are on the right track and getting into some of the info I need. Measure the wood joist depth and diagonal spacing also. The tank is in a pretty decent location assuming we can get the bulk of the load onto the beam and the right bearing wall.
If you give me enough info I can help keep this tank upstairs... Lol
I know you probably aren't looking forward to cutting into your ceiling but as they say "if you want omelettes you gotta break some eggs".
Stano
Also where the wall is on the right side you may need to put blocking in those joists depending on where the tank ends up. Joists like this are a pain in the *** as they are not typically designed for concentrated loads. Solid wood joists would have been better but we have what have.
The left side is a bit messier as it is on joists only. You are on the right track and getting into some of the info I need. Measure the wood joist depth and diagonal spacing also. The tank is in a pretty decent location assuming we can get the bulk of the load onto the beam and the right bearing wall.
If you give me enough info I can help keep this tank upstairs... Lol
I know you probably aren't looking forward to cutting into your ceiling but as they say "if you want omelettes you gotta break some eggs".
Stano
Ronantoon
Community Member
Thank You Stano your a good man. The bulkhead is there because the ductwork is going underneath the steel beam from what i remember. The beam is steel, i still have to get the measurements. The joist are 16" high and the diagonals are 19". the wall between the two bedrooms is framed with metal 2x4's not wood, dont know if that makes a difference. Im going to open the drywall near the bulkhead later this week and take some pictures.
If the joists are 16" and the partitions are metal stud my guess is that floor is framed as long spans with non load bearing partitions. Do you know if the floor was all framed before the partition walls were put in? This is done to allow people to divide up the basement however they like after the builder leaves or for client specific requests. Some people want a bunch of rooms, others want a big open room.
Also can you dimension the plan you made?
Also can you dimension the plan you made?
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Running these calc would cost him alot(well maybe not alot), love this board ,so many people out there to help..
Ronantoon
Community Member
Hello Stano, sorry I was gone for a month. Just got back. Nothing new on the support issue yet by my stand is being powder coated this week and will be delivers next. Hope you been ok
The steel beam should be more than adequate that close to the end of the span. I am assuming it is at least an 8" beam (fairly typical). If you give me depth, width and flange thickness I can check it.
The wood joists on the right side of the beam I hate to say it but it looks to me like they were a little short when installed. The end of the joist is cantilevered out a fair bit which isn't a great thing. I can't read the dimensions on the wood joists on your sketch, can you scale it up a bit?
The wall to the right of the beam did we confirm if it is a non load bearing metal stud wall or a load bearing wood (2x4 or 2x6) wall. If that wall was load bearing in combination with the steel beam and the rigidity of your stand you might be in decent shape. The difference between load bearing or not on these types of walls is primarily what they are constructed of. Depending on how the joist checks out you may need to put a bit of blocking inside the joist to carry load from the floor through the joist onto the top of the wall (if its load bearing).
The wood joists on the right side of the beam I hate to say it but it looks to me like they were a little short when installed. The end of the joist is cantilevered out a fair bit which isn't a great thing. I can't read the dimensions on the wood joists on your sketch, can you scale it up a bit?
The wall to the right of the beam did we confirm if it is a non load bearing metal stud wall or a load bearing wood (2x4 or 2x6) wall. If that wall was load bearing in combination with the steel beam and the rigidity of your stand you might be in decent shape. The difference between load bearing or not on these types of walls is primarily what they are constructed of. Depending on how the joist checks out you may need to put a bit of blocking inside the joist to carry load from the floor through the joist onto the top of the wall (if its load bearing).
In my opinion I would run two new small steel beams (6") parallel to the long axis of the tank, supported on a bearing wall/posts on each end buried in the wall. This tank is very heavy and the residential floor joists framing your floor are not suitable for loads of this size or concentration. Typical residential floor joists are designed for 40-50 lbs/sq ft max.
This scenario would leave you with a small bulkhead across the ceiling not a lot unlike what you already had, just stretching all the way across the ceiling (which would look a lot better). The duct that was encased can be encased again. The supporting posts/wall at each end is as easy as pulling off the one side of the existing drywall and putting in built-up wood posts (3 ply 2x4) under each beam (4 posts total). Then you simply solid block up to the underside of your floor sheathing with 2x6 or 2x8.
If you want me to size things up let me know. If you choose to risk it beware of the significant risk and danger. A tank like this going through your floor could easily kill or seriously injure someone below. The cost of a bit of framing is marginal compared to the cost of this tank setup. I know this isn't what you were hoping to hear but it is reality. Let me know if I can help more, I am willing to see this through. In the end when it's all drywalled again you have a nice rectangular bulkhead across the ceiling and the piece of mind of not worrying about anything happening. I am not being conservative before anyone says I am, I am giving it to you straight. Best of luck, if you need my help I am offering it...
You can email me at stan AT eeng DOT ca if you like. I have attached a pic of my fish room in progress.
Stano
This scenario would leave you with a small bulkhead across the ceiling not a lot unlike what you already had, just stretching all the way across the ceiling (which would look a lot better). The duct that was encased can be encased again. The supporting posts/wall at each end is as easy as pulling off the one side of the existing drywall and putting in built-up wood posts (3 ply 2x4) under each beam (4 posts total). Then you simply solid block up to the underside of your floor sheathing with 2x6 or 2x8.
If you want me to size things up let me know. If you choose to risk it beware of the significant risk and danger. A tank like this going through your floor could easily kill or seriously injure someone below. The cost of a bit of framing is marginal compared to the cost of this tank setup. I know this isn't what you were hoping to hear but it is reality. Let me know if I can help more, I am willing to see this through. In the end when it's all drywalled again you have a nice rectangular bulkhead across the ceiling and the piece of mind of not worrying about anything happening. I am not being conservative before anyone says I am, I am giving it to you straight. Best of luck, if you need my help I am offering it...
You can email me at stan AT eeng DOT ca if you like. I have attached a pic of my fish room in progress.
Stano
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