Steel Aquarium Stand (96x36x35H) Tanks Size (96x36x30) Help

Ronantoon

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Hello guys, I need some help on designing my steel stand (96x36x35H) for my 450g (96x36x30) tank. I made a model on Google sketch up. can anyone tell me if this will work. Stand is going to made out of 2"x2" tube steel 1/8 thick. I want to keep the front as open as possible. the cross bracing will be diagonals not gussets. thank you in advance
Aquarium Stand 96x36x35 New.jpg
 

Budman's Corals

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Hello guys, I need some help on designing my steel stand (96x36x35H) for my 450g (96x36x30) tank. I made a model on Google sketch up. can anyone tell me if this will work. Stand is going to made out of 2"x2" tube steel 1/8 thick. I want to keep the front as open as possible. the cross bracing will be diagonals not gussets. thank you in advance Aquarium Stand 96x36x35 New.jpg

I'm in the steel business and i think up might wanna go up to a 1/4" thickness just on the supports

Good luck
 
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Ronantoon

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Does anyone see a problem with the 44" spans in the front. I afraid the stand might twist, or am I ok with this design.
 

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I had a glass tank of just those dimensions with a very similar stand. The only difference was mine had vertical supports in front just like in back. There were no diagonals in the length-wise direction. It did use 1/4" steel 2X2's. The welder told me it was over-kill. That stand was solid as can be. If you wanted extra piece of mind you could add gussets at the corners in the back. If the back can't twist the front really couldn't either.

Allen
 

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I had a glass tank of just those dimensions with a very similar stand. The only difference was mine had vertical supports in front just like in back. There were no diagonals in the length-wise direction. It did use 1/4" steel 2X2's. The welder told me it was over-kill. That stand was solid as can be. If you wanted extra piece of mind you could add gussets at the corners in the back. If the back can't twist the front really couldn't either.

Allen

He said the 1/4" was overkill, If so that's why hes a welder not an Engineer...lol
 
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Ronantoon

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Hey guys thanks for the advice, i changed the design a little.
Aquarium Stand 96x36x35 Tabs.jpg
A little more semetrical plus im adding little tabs to screw in the skin when i get to it.
 

ReeferAl

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He said the 1/4" was overkill, If so that's why hes a welder not an Engineer...lol

He said the over-all construction was over-kill, not specifically the 1/4" tubing thickness. It included 5 2x2 diagonal braces front to back in addition to the 10 vertical supports. Since you're apparently an engineer though, I'll leave it to you to advise on the structure.

Allen
 

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He said the over-all construction was over-kill, not specifically the 1/4" tubing thickness. It included 5 2x2 diagonal braces front to back in addition to the 10 vertical supports. Since you're apparently an engineer though, I'll leave it to you to advise on the structure.

Allen

I gotcha, better to be safe then sorry...Thats alot weight on that stand and that's something I wouldn't want to worry about..
Ive done plenty of calculations and its just right..

That is alot of bracing.. I agree with that
 

ReeferAl

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BTW the water alone is 1.87 tons...

Like I said before, my tank was exactly the same dimensions so it was just as heavy. The empty tank also weighed 1400 lb as it had 1" front and back glass. I would stand by my prior recommendations: change to 1/4" steel and consider adding posterior corner gussets for peace of mind. Otherwise good to go.

Allen

Allen
 

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I would put the gussets at the upper corners of the back of the frame. Again, this probably isn't necessary but would add peace of mind.

Allen
 

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No issue I can see. If your corner welds have good penetration this stand is what's called a rigid frame or vierendeel truss (a rigid truss with no diagonals). The welding on a structure like this is key. You will not have any issues assuming the welds are sound.

The only issue I would be concerned with is the floor it sits on. If its not in the basement you will need someone to look at your floor framing. If its on a concrete floor you won't have any issues. And yes I am a structural Engineer.

Stano
 
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Ronantoon

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Hi Stano thanks for the advice. My question is how can I tell if the welds are penetrated. This tank going on 1st with a basement below so I'm going to have to support it below. Thanks again
 

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How was it welded? Who welded it? I see in the pic it's sitting in what appears to be a metal shop. The good thing with square tube is that with the rounded corners you usually have the ability to get decent weld at the corners without too much work. On the corners that meet with two square faces the weld size should be at least 1/4". This is the distance out from the inside corner each direction.

If you generally have 1/4" welds you will be fine. Sometimes people weld things and then grind all the weld off to make it look good, which is where the strength is. This is dangerous if you grind away all the capacity. Send me some pics of the corners and I can take a better look.

The thing that concerns me the most is the first floor framing. The weight of this tank is such that standard floor framing would never support it. This would likely require a support wall below each of the long sides at a minimum. You will likely need to put blocking in between the joists to transfer the load into the wall and stabilize the floor joists. Give me a little detail on the current floor framing and I can maybe help you sort out the details. Pictures would help also.

Stano
 
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Ronantoon

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Hi Stano, my basement is finished so I'll have to tear open the drywall ceiling in a bedroom underneath the tank to see what's going on. I'll get some pics once I do that. Thanks
 
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Ronantoon

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Hi guys i just made a layout plan of my basement without tearing out any drywall yet. i think its 95% right. Heres a pic of the t
Basement floor plan_p.jpg
russes also.
IMG_3239.jpg
 

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