The 5 year plan

[JoJosReef]

I have a pretty great 40 gallon office tank, but, as one does in this hobby, I'm always thinking of a bigger tank. I could think ahead a year or two and go for a bigger tank. But I'm thinking that the next tank should be THE bigger tank, the dream. So maybe thinking on a 3-5yr plan instead. There are only a couple of prerequisites:

1. The tank cannot overflow or bust a seam (or must absolutely minimize risk)
2. Primarily rely on live ocean rock, livestock, refugium and cryptic zones for filtration

With #1 in mind, I want the big tank to be a rather large AIO and to be eurobraced acrylic in the style of Tenecor ReefPoint AIOs. In fact, maybe it could be a custom Tenecor ReefPoint AIO--just need to hit hard 12s a few times in craps. Only plumbing should be the return pump going from the AIO return chamber to the return nozzles into the DT. The AIO chambers will have emergency overflows, so no blockages should cause a tank overflow. The ATO should be only capable of pumping enough water to bring the entire volume of the system below the lid.

For #2, I would like to have a refugium with lots of red macroalgae, sponges and such. Probably also a good place for clams. The cryptic zone would be in a spacious AIO chamber, and I'll have to think about how to design baffles to allow flow into the cryptic zone so that it is more dispersed/slower. There will still be some mechanical filtration in the form of filter cups and space to put equipment like UV, carbon and even a large-ish skimmer, but ideal is to be non-reliant on special equipment.

Basic concept art:

A 3-5 year plan might also give me enough time to learn how to do some or all of this stuff myself. Maybe get some ideas and pointers from DIYers like @Troylee .

A few overaching questions:

1. How will flow work in the separation between DT and Refugium? I'm imagining a set of baffles that let flow enter, trail to the bottom and come up through a short 3-4" baffle so that flow doesn't just go through the overflow and create a current at the top straight to the AIO overflow. The 3-4" short baffle would also allow a 2-3" mud/sand bed in the refugium.
2. How best to keep flow lower in the cryptic refugium? Maybe holes/slits in the up-baffle to disperse flow?
3. Would a clear acrylic wall separating the DT and refugium work? Could it be bonded to the black acrylic AIO walls?
4. I'm concerned about getting a powerhead or gyre on the right side of the DT (the clear wall). The magnet needs a dry side. I wonder if you could set up a type of "overflow" box that doesn't have any opening excep the top to slip in a dry magnet. Would be a pain to keep clean.
5. How would the eurobrace work in a sectioned tank like this? Hmmm..

Brain getting foggy, must shut down systems..

 

[strich]

I don't have answers to your questions I'm afraid. But I am curious why you don't instead DIY a sump below the tank where you'd have a lot more room to work with than an AIO sump?

 

[JoJosReef]

I don't have answers to your questions I'm afraid. But I am curious why you don't instead DIY a sump below the tank where you'd have a lot more room to work with than an AIO sump?

Thanks, great question. Since this is an office tank where my ability to keep an office tank hinges on water staying off of the floors, i.e., no disasters allowed except in force majeure, I am paying extra special attention to all potential points of failure. Any plumbing leading out of the tank is a point of failure in my view. Thus, a sump is inherently more risky than an AIO, where all of the water is contained in one box.

I'd ideally like a big tank that functions a lot like my current tank: no skimmer, no UV unless clearly needed, minimal mechanical filtration, infrequent water changes, and everything (almost at least) growing nicely.

 

[Ben's Pico Reefing]

To have the cryptic slower since its split, you can put a guard over the overflow to slow it down. Have guards on both so you can adjust the flow intake. Where pump chamber is have it to where the baffle causes over flow from top into pump area and is higher, and on other side where water is baffled to be carried underneath.to pump section and lower.

 

[Troylee]

I have a pretty great 40 gallon office tank, but, as one does in this hobby, I'm always thinking of a bigger tank. I could think ahead a year or two and go for a bigger tank. But I'm thinking that the next tank should be THE bigger tank, the dream. So maybe thinking on a 3-5yr plan instead. There are only a couple of prerequisites:

1. The tank cannot overflow or bust a seam (or must absolutely minimize risk)
2. Primarily rely on live ocean rock, livestock, refugium and cryptic zones for filtration

With #1 in mind, I want the big tank to be a rather large AIO and to be eurobraced acrylic in the style of Tenecor ReefPoint AIOs. In fact, maybe it could be a custom Tenecor ReefPoint AIO--just need to hit hard 12s a few times in craps. Only plumbing should be the return pump going from the AIO return chamber to the return nozzles into the DT. The AIO chambers will have emergency overflows, so no blockages should cause a tank overflow. The ATO should be only capable of pumping enough water to bring the entire volume of the system below the lid.

For #2, I would like to have a refugium with lots of red macroalgae, sponges and such. Probably also a good place for clams. The cryptic zone would be in a spacious AIO chamber, and I'll have to think about how to design baffles to allow flow into the cryptic zone so that it is more dispersed/slower. There will still be some mechanical filtration in the form of filter cups and space to put equipment like UV, carbon and even a large-ish skimmer, but ideal is to be non-reliant on special equipment.

Basic concept art:

A 3-5 year plan might also give me enough time to learn how to do some or all of this stuff myself. Maybe get some ideas and pointers from DIYers like @Troylee .

A few overaching questions:

1. How will flow work in the separation between DT and Refugium? I'm imagining a set of baffles that let flow enter, trail to the bottom and come up through a short 3-4" baffle so that flow doesn't just go through the overflow and create a current at the top straight to the AIO overflow. The 3-4" short baffle would also allow a 2-3" mud/sand bed in the refugium.
2. How best to keep flow lower in the cryptic refugium? Maybe holes/slits in the up-baffle to disperse flow?
3. Would a clear acrylic wall separating the DT and refugium work? Could it be bonded to the black acrylic AIO walls?
4. I'm concerned about getting a powerhead or gyre on the right side of the DT (the clear wall). The magnet needs a dry side. I wonder if you could set up a type of "overflow" box that doesn't have any opening excep the top to slip in a dry magnet. Would be a pain to keep clean.
5. How would the eurobrace work in a sectioned tank like this? Hmmm..

Brain getting foggy, must shut down systems..

There’s a couple ways to control the flow in the fuge overflow… the easiest way is less teeth in the weir and only go down like 1/2” below the water line vs a standard has many teeth and goes 1-1/2” typically… less water through the slower the flow.