The Impossible Green Hair Algae

[Goats n Monkeys]

Yes, I know there are multiple threads about this but my problem is over 4 years old so far I've yet to find a message board or LFS that can figure it out. So let's just say this is a very advanced GHA thread.

Several years ago I started this thread on another board but none of the suggestions worked. The last post suggested as a last ditch effort to completely start over so 15 months ago I replaced the entire setup with a 45-gallon Red Sea MAX E170, complete with skimmer. Replaced all of the rock except a few tiny pieces that (what was left of) my corals were still attached. GHA exploded within 3 months so the LFS came out, drained the tank, doused all of the rock with hydrogen peroxide, and scrubbed it off. That actually worked for about 6 months but it's back and worse than ever. I have had two LFS crews (including the owners) and one free-lance maintenance guy come out and everyone is out of ideas. Nobody understands why I keep getting it and why it won't go away.

Below is the entire list of everything done that's failed to work...

 

[Goats n Monkeys]

The following has been tried and failed:

• Weekly water changes (replacing 25%) and filter floss swaps
• Multiple large dosings of FluxRX
• Biweekly sand vacuuming
• complete equipment cleaning every month
• "Renting" sea hares, which used to get rid of GHA but it would come back in full within a week. Now the hares won’t touch it.
• Put in a Sochting Oxydator
• Bi-weekly additions of Vibrant from Underwater Creations
• Annual deep cleans, which doesn’t remove much gunk, and confirmed that water flow is consistent and strong

Other factors:

• All chems (nitrite, ammonia, ph, phosphate, alkalinity and calcium) test nearly perfect with both my tests, LFS spinner tests, and strips that the maintenance guy brought. Both LFS confirmed the water is fine.
• Salinity ranges around 1.024-1.027 and temp is 74 (though closer to 79 during summer).
• I make my own water with very little PPM and Fritz salt but, no, it's not the r/o water because I used to buy from 3 different LFS in the last 4 years that I’ve had this problem.
• Lighting spectrum only uses blue, purple and ultra violet and is only on 7 hours/day
• Livestock = one small clownfish and a small scopas tang (the latter purchased to eat algae to which he does not) and I feed them thawed brine shrimp very moderately every night- they finish within 45 seconds.
• My cleaners consist of 8-12 crabs and 3-4 snails (astria and turbo). I've tried adding up to 7 snails and it made no difference.

 

[vanguard]

One thing that's helped me is an urchin. However, I haven't found it to be a magic bullet.

What I'm really doing is adding a small idea while also hoping that bumping this thread gets you the attention you need.

 

[Lavey29]

I didn't see daily manual removal in your list?

 

[fersann]

Lighting spectrum only uses blue, purple and ultra violet and is only on 7 hours/day

Whats the PAR level?

Does Par level has an impact on hair algae?

All chems (nitrite, ammonia, ph, phosphate, alkalinity and calcium) test nearly perfect with both my tests, LFS spinner tests, and strips that the maintenance guy brought. Both LFS confirmed the water is fine.

what is perfect? Can you be more specific?

There is a ratio, i call it the perfect ratio. I try to maintain this ratio and i dont have much algae. It is .01 phosphates fore every 1 nitrate.

So if you have 10 nitrates you should have .1 phosphates

I make my own water with very little PPM and Fritz salt but, no, it's not the r/o water because I used to buy from 3 different LFS in the last 4 years that I’ve had this problem.

Whats the TDS on this Ro water?



There must be something wrong or your tank is not mature enough.

Do you have a pic of your tank and the hair algae?

 

[VintageReefer]

I didn't see daily manual removal in your list?

Daily? This shouldn’t be needed and based on the OP history of steps taken, a good ole daily toothbrushin isn’t going to help

Something’s going on to cause repeat issues.

OP
1) stop vacuuming sand. Keep it and leave it alone or remove and go bare bottom.

2) stop vibrant

3) please post all parameters values

4) don’t trust others water. Start using your own rodi

5) can you post pictures of the tank and sump

6) tell me everything you put in the tank, how much, and how often
Ex -
Food - 1 cube mysis a day, 1 piece nori 4x6, 3 pinches of whateve brand food. Etc

Supplements
Aminos
Coral food
Any kind of Products

Everything please

 

[Lavey29]

Daily? This shouldn’t be needed and based on the OP history of steps taken, a good ole daily toothbrushin isn’t going to help

Something’s going on to cause repeat issues.

OP
1) stop vacuuming sand. Keep it and leave it alone or remove and go bare bottom.

2) stop vibrant

3) please post all parameters values

4) don’t trust others water. Start using your own rodi

5) can you post pictures of the tank and sump

I agree somethings going on and harsh chemicals make things worth but you got to get your hands wet with GHA control.

 

[VintageReefer]

I agree somethings going on and harsh chemicals make things worth but you got to get your hands wet with GHA control.

Let’s gather some background data. I like a challenge

 

[Goats n Monkeys]

Thank you for all of the replies! I’m about to go to bed but I’ll gather additional info and pics tomorrow.
When I say “perfect” for my chems, that was actually what both LFS’s said after spin testing and then said it’s definitely not the chemicals.
My lights are at about 70-80% brightness for most of the time they’re on except the brief sunrise/sunset.
I’ll pump the breaks on the Vibrant and sand vacuuming for the time being. Also look into a pumpkin urchin!
Forgot to mention that I do have carbon (that I change out every 60 days) and small rocks in the back chambers.

 

[VintageReefer]

I read your post on the other form from a few years ago. Do you still feed heavy due to lots of nps corals and a mandarin?

You also used lots of products. And take steps that actually disrupt and prevent your tank from developing and establishing a natural bio filter.

Please let me know any products / materials that are in sump / filtration chambers also

 

[Goats n Monkeys]

I fed your post on the other form from a few years ago. Do you still feed heavy due to lots of nps corals and a mandarin?

You also used lots of products. And take steps that actually disrupt and prevent your tank from developing and establishing a natural bio filter.

That was over a 2-year period and I only did about 1/3rd of that stuff at the same time. The tank actually flourished for the first 6 months before the GHA slowly destroyed just about everything. I never really fed heavy, even when I had the goby and NPS. It’s never taken longer than a minute for the fish to eat everything up.

 

[VintageReefer]

That was over a 2-year period and I only did about 1/3rd of that stuff at the same time. The tank actually flourished for the first 6 months before the GHA slowly destroyed just about everything. I never really fed heavy, even when I had the goby and NPS. It’s never taken longer than a minute for the fish to eat everything up.

Ok just checking. Get sleep. Gather answers and pics. We’ll be here tomorrow to help

 

[Glenner’sreef]

So, I help maintain a lot of tanks (retired). Some have been plagued with gha. I fix the problem in 4-8 weeks. It hasn’t come back. The problems that jump off of this post are these:
You are putting your trust in Vibrant and Flux rx to fix your problem. They’re like hypnosis and the patch for people wanting to quit smoking. They work but not all of the time and not for everybody. I personally would stop wasting my money on these products. You’re also trusting (there’s that word again) your lfs, for 4 years! To have perfectly pure zero tds water for your tank. I believe you now have a rodi system yes? With “low tds?” How low 5,10,15? Do you have a meter on your rodi unit? Replace your cartridges and membrane if needed. And test you rodi. You’re again “trusting” outsiders with test strips to give you accurate readings on your tank water. You really need to purchase a reputable test kit, Salifert, Red Sea, Hanna.

Now, you have pristine water conditions. You have a much better idea of what your parameters are. You’re not wasting your money on products that only help one guy, your lfs owner.
Start: 1. Nylon media bag with gfo in moderate flow area. Change out religiously each week.
2. 3 Snails may not be making a dent depending on what type of snail. So purchase 10 or 20 turbo snails per 50 gallon tank. Put them on the rocks every day. If they fall off of the rock work. Flip them back over, put them back on the gha. If 11 of the 20 ultimately die of starvation then 9 is your lucky number for your tank. 11 dying sounds terrible but remember people eat these snails in fancy restaurants.
3. Vacuum your sandbed. Hopefully 1/2” to 1” of sand max.
4. Pull gha out of tank every day or two. Keep on it.
So doing these things will do two things: first it will irritate the heck out of your gha. Secondly, in 4-8 weeks you won’t have any more gha.
Recap: gfo and snail army will around the clock work to eliminate the gha.
Your new and controlled rodi water, efficient water testing, and vacuuming and other maintenance will make it impossible for gha to grow or take root. I’ve really seen this work. Firsthand. Good luck.

 

[Garf]

That was over a 2-year period and I only did about 1/3rd of that stuff at the same time. The tank actually flourished for the first 6 months before the GHA slowly destroyed just about everything. I never really fed heavy, even when I had the goby and NPS. It’s never taken longer than a minute for the fish to eat everything up.

What light dependant organisms do you have in the tank now?, apart from the algae, obviously.

 

[Dan_P]

The following has been tried and failed:

• Weekly water changes (replacing 25%) and filter floss swaps
• Multiple large dosings of FluxRX
• Biweekly sand vacuuming
• complete equipment cleaning every month
• "Renting" sea hares, which used to get rid of GHA but it would come back in full within a week. Now the hares won’t touch it.
• Put in a Sochting Oxydator
• Bi-weekly additions of Vibrant from Underwater Creations
• Annual deep cleans, which doesn’t remove much gunk, and confirmed that water flow is consistent and strong

Other factors:

• All chems (nitrite, ammonia, ph, phosphate, alkalinity and calcium) test nearly perfect with both my tests, LFS spinner tests, and strips that the maintenance guy brought. Both LFS confirmed the water is fine.
• Salinity ranges around 1.024-1.027 and temp is 74 (though closer to 79 during summer).
• I make my own water with very little PPM and Fritz salt but, no, it's not the r/o water because I used to buy from 3 different LFS in the last 4 years that I’ve had this problem.
• Lighting spectrum only uses blue, purple and ultra violet and is only on 7 hours/day
• Livestock = one small clownfish and a small scopas tang (the latter purchased to eat algae to which he does not) and I feed them thawed brine shrimp very moderately every night- they finish within 45 seconds.
• My cleaners consist of 8-12 crabs and 3-4 snails (astria and turbo). I've tried adding up to 7 snails and it made no difference.

Can you post a current picture of the alga under white light?

Has anyone looked it under a microscope?