I have a Hair Algae And briopsis algae problem.I need help on how to fix it.

First we'd need to know how old the tank is. 2 day black out wouldn't be enough in IMO. If the tanks less then a year old it's just part of the cycle. I had the same issue Algae flowing and flopping around like crazy. Eventually things just started clearing up. Other then that do you run GFO. Have you checked your Nitrates and Phosphates.

The tanks been set up for 1 year and a half.

red leg hermit crabs

i have same problem i used GFO AND SEACHEM some turbo snail and big warter changer.now all gone

Well I'd say start with your bulb change out and a water change see what happens.

With the limited info you provided, all you can get are limited answers with general statements
Phosphates are the limiting nutrient for most nuisance algae. Nuisance algae can't exist with out it and its the easiest to control.That being said there are actually two things you need to do. Find the source of the excess nutrients and remove them from your system. Without taking care of both of these issues you wont have any success. Changing the lights wont change the level of nutrients in the water, and the nutrient levels that sustain algae growth are detrimental to corals
The source is probably going to be your make up water. It might be from over feeding for extended periods as well. Test your TDS. Change you DI resins and get into regular schedule for maintenance on your RO system. Dont overfeed
To remove it you need to step up your maintenance. GFO is your best ally. With high levels you will probably need to change it every 3-4 days for the first couple of weeks. Fresh carbon. Make sure your skimmer is working properly. Remove any detritus from your sump. Take a turkey baster and blow it off the rocks in your tank. In extreme cases you might need to pull your rock out and scrub the algae off.

+1 to vegas rick. without knowing anyhting about the tank, tank params, how much flow, and how ofter you feed we are just guessing.. but i fully agree with everythign said above. i would cut back on feeding and see about adding a gfo and carbon reactor.

Might look into hydrogen peroxide for nuisance algae some on was talking about it in my local fish club you dose it for eight days. Can't remember the amount 1ml for every 10 gallons is what I think it is but double check if you are gonna try


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what are the tanks levels raising mg always worked for me

Kent Tech M works for a number of different types of bryopsis, by bringing mag up to 1600+ slowly and keeping it there for awhile. Even with the best tank parameters, most varieties of bryopsis will still grow. The peroxide route might be the way to go if it is bryopsis and if it is localized on a rock.

i just beat bryopsis myself. all i did was change out the filters in my rodi unit and get a sea hare..all gone ; )

For Bryopsis I have found that only Tech M works. An online seller stated that Atlantic/Pacific Lettuce Nudibranchs will eat bryopsis, but I don't know if it is true or not. Pacific Lettuce Slug, Lettuce Nudibranch - Tridachia crispata

Here are the dosing instructions for Tech M that have worked for me. I totally eliminated Bryopsis in my 300 gallon reef with Tech M a couple years ago and have not had it since. These are my creation and have worked for me, so use at your own risk.

I pulled this post I made from another Bryopsis thread on my local reef club website and posted it here because lately, I have seen a lot of Bryopsis in people's reef tanks. These are folks involved in both sides of the hobby locally, and many online seller's tanks. So if anyone can benefit, here is the method I used that helped me completely eradicate Bryopsis.

Acroholic's Tech M Dosing Instructions

This is the method that worked for me. Of course, you follow these at your own risk, etc.

1. Get enough Tech M to do the job. Do not use mag sulfate or mag chloride to raise the mag level so you don't have to use as much Tech M. If you do this you are not adding the trace element or whatever is in the Tech M that actually kills the Bryopsis. Start from whatever your mag level is and raise it only using Tech M.

2. Get a quality test kit, like an Elos or a Salifert. Test every day when you are raising mag levels and when you are maintaining mag levels. Salifert test kits only read to 1500 ppm, so when you know your mag levels are over 1500, you add 1 ml of the #3 reagent and then draw up another 1 ml per the instructions. When you get the color change, reference the chart for the ppm, then add 1500 to this for the total ppm.

3. If you use them, I would eliminate the use of any Poly Filters or the like during the time you are raising the Mag level to 1800 with Tech M until the time your mag level drops to 1350 as described in step 6. Poly filters can remove metals, and since no one knows, you might remove the trace element that is actually killing the bryopsis if you use poly filters. Carbon is fine.

4. Raise your magnesium with Tech M by 100 ppm/day until you reach 1800. Test every day and maintain this level in your reef for two weeks straight. Do not do any water changes during this time. If you do water changes, then make sure you add enough Tech M to the tank to maintain the mag at 1800. The idea is to get enough exposure time at that level so whatever trace element is killing the Bryopsis has enough time to work.

The 1800 mag level is an indirect indicator of the concentration whatever trace element in the Tech M is killing the Bryopsis. Length of exposure at the right concentration seems to be the key to eliminating vs just suppressing the Bryopsis.

5. If you have a lot of Bryopsis in your tank, manually remove as much as possible when it starts to weaken and die. This will eliminate/minimize an ammonia spike that can result from the decaying Bryopsis.

6. After you have maintained a mag level of 1800 for two weeks, start doing your normal water changes. Do not do them more often that usual. You will have elevated magnesium levels for a period afterwards, several weeks probably. This is not an issue. Let the level come back to the normal 1350 or so thru regular water changes and use by the corals.

7. Possible effects on animals and corals. I had some turbo snails die in the time my mag levels were elevated. I also had some montiporas lightly bleach on me, but they recovered quickly. I lost no SPS, LPS or soft corals as a result of using Tech M in the manner I have just described.

Again, please keep in mind that the above regimen worked for me. Know that Kent Tech M is not manufactured or intended by Kent Marine as an algaecide against Bryopsis. The effect of Tech M on Bryopsis is a side effect of this product when it is used at a much higher than normal concentration, so all treatment regimens for Bryopsis by me or anyone else are based on anecdotal experience only.

The Atlantic lettuce nudibranchs do eat bryopsis, but they eventually starve and die. I prefer the tech m approach, it works


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harlequinreefer said:

The Atlantic lettuce nudibranchs do eat bryopsis, but they eventually starve and die. I prefer the tech m approach, it works


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Click to expand...

The main issue I see using Lettuce Nudis is they probably don't get the Bryopsis holdfasts/roots. They seem to be deep inside the rockwork, so I would guess Lettuce Nudibranchs are more a control, and not a cure for bryopsis in a reef tank. Control is better, complete elimination is the best, IMO.

Yea I'm not a big fan of ever using nudis, but it is one of 2 things that actually eat bryopsis.


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glad i came across this. I have spotted a couple small patches. I know how it came to be in my tank too...a frag plug....I was able to pull this rock out and ended up using a kalkwasser paste on it ... but I see it starting to come back there and in 1 or 2 other places. will try the tech M treatment. Thanks for that tip.