0 Nitrate, 0 Phosphate...some GHA

JonoB

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I have had this tank for over a year...but I moved. I kind of am treating it as a "new" tank, but I used my old live rock and cycled some new rock.

I currently have 0 nitrate and 0 phosphate with some GHA in the tank. I don't want my nitrates and phosphates to stay at 0 because I don't want Dinos...should I just feed more or should I try dosing. I have some Neonitro so I could use that to get nitrates up, but wasn't sure if that's the best route.

I FEEL like I feed pretty heavily, twice sometimes 3 times a day. I have a protein skimmer but I'm currently letting it just overflow back into the tank (its breaking in anyway).

What do you think?

My stocking list is :

2 clowns
1 anthias
1 wrasse
1 mandarin
some hermits and snails.
 

Euphyllia97

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Would indeed just let it run like this and maybe feed a bit heavier until you have readable nitrates.
Make sure it’s not just the algae taking up all of the nutrients and therefore having a 0 reading.
 

45ZoaGarden

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I have had this tank for over a year...but I moved. I kind of am treating it as a "new" tank, but I used my old live rock and cycled some new rock.

I currently have 0 nitrate and 0 phosphate with some GHA in the tank. I don't want my nitrates and phosphates to stay at 0 because I don't want Dinos...should I just feed more or should I try dosing. I have some Neonitro so I could use that to get nitrates up, but wasn't sure if that's the best route.

I FEEL like I feed pretty heavily, twice sometimes 3 times a day. I have a protein skimmer but I'm currently letting it just overflow back into the tank (its breaking in anyway).

What do you think?

My stocking list is :

2 clowns
1 anthias
1 wrasse
1 mandarin
some hermits and snails.
What test kits? Are you using ro/di? By “some hermits and snails” about how many? Size of tank?
 

NS Mike D

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What test kits? Are you using ro/di? By “some hermits and snails” about how many? Size of tank?


^. This. Before starting to make changes, it's critical to first confirm your tests are correct. Not all saltwater test kits are equal and reef tanks require test kits that can measure NO3 and PO4 more precise than say the API test kits.

On the other hand, glad to see you are concerned that the zeros might lead to dinos, and not taking the knee jerk reactions intended to lower already low to no nutrients.
 
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JonoB

JonoB

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What test kits? Are you using ro/di? By “some hermits and snails” about how many? Size of tank?

What, you can't figure it out with almost zero information...? LOL yeah I don't know why I didn't include that.

6og cube using RODI and I test TDS...it was at 0 last time I checked but Ill check again.

Hanna Checker for phosphate, Salifert test for nitrate.

The reason I was vague about the inverts is that I'm not sure. I lost some in the move, and am trying to build my CUC back up but with this Social Distance junk going on, its hard for me to get to the LFS. I think I have 1 red leg, 3 very small blue leg, 4 astreas and a turbo. I just put a emerald crab in but I haven't seen him in a few days. I'm guessing he's in there somewhere...
 

Miller535

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This is just me, but I would dose Neonitro and Nephos instead of just feeding heavy and hoping they rise. I personally was not able to get detectable NO3 and PO4 when my tank bottomed out, no matter how heavy I fed. And if you dose those 2 nutrients, you are only raising those and not silicates and other undesirables.

Once I got my NO3 detectable, heavy feeding then kept them detectable, but for me, feeding didn't get it there on it's own. For some reason I still have to keep dosing PO4 though.
 

45ZoaGarden

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What Hanna checker (lr or ulr) and are you using the proper reagents? Is the number on the screen 0.00? I’m thinking it’s the reagents. It’s not a common thing to have a rock bottom po4. Especially with a bunch of fish and feeding heavily.. I would get a couple emerald crabs. I threw 3 emeralds in my 45 and they went to town. You may also want to get a tuxedo urchin. Is the algae pretty thick? That could also be consuming quite a bit...
What, you can't figure it out with almost zero information...? LOL yeah I don't know why I didn't include that.

6og cube using RODI and I test TDS...it was at 0 last time I checked but Ill check again.

Hanna Checker for phosphate, Salifert test for nitrate.

The reason I was vague about the inverts is that I'm not sure. I lost some in the move, and am trying to build my CUC back up but with this Social Distance junk going on, its hard for me to get to the LFS. I think I have 1 red leg, 3 very small blue leg, 4 astreas and a turbo. I just put a emerald crab in but I haven't seen him in a few days. I'm guessing he's in there somewhere...
 
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JonoB

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Using the LR Hanna Checker, with proper reagents and they are not expired. Number was 0.00, I've been feeding a little heavier and my phosphates are up to .03 so I'm happy with that. Nitrates are still at 0 however, thinking I will slowly dose some NeoNitro if it doesn't change soon. I've dealt with Dinos before and don't want to go down that road.

On another note, corals seem to look good, and I have Coraline growth popping up everywhere on the glass. So some things are good I guess lol.

Algae is still there. I guess my next question is, if my nitrates and phosphates are exactly where they need to be but I'm still having algae pop up, do I just keep manually removing it till it goes away? I wouldn't think chasing the numbers till they are right would make algae just magically disappear, so what do you do?
 

45ZoaGarden

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Using the LR Hanna Checker, with proper reagents and they are not expired. Number was 0.00, I've been feeding a little heavier and my phosphates are up to .03 so I'm happy with that. Nitrates are still at 0 however, thinking I will slowly dose some NeoNitro if it doesn't change soon. I've dealt with Dinos before and don't want to go down that road.

On another note, corals seem to look good, and I have Coraline growth popping up everywhere on the glass. So some things are good I guess lol.

Algae is still there. I guess my next question is, if my nitrates and phosphates are exactly where they need to be but I'm still having algae pop up, do I just keep manually removing it till it goes away? I wouldn't think chasing the numbers till they are right would make algae just magically disappear, so what do you do?
I think the algae is consuming the nitrates. I would throw 3-4 emerald crabs in there.
 

NS Mike D

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I think the algae is consuming the nitrates. I would throw 3-4 emerald crabs in there.


+1


if you are at zeros, when you attempt to add NO3 and PO4, they can get used up very quickly. Likely why you are seeing the NO3 getting use up. The PO4 is just not getting used up as fast as the NO3.

If not clear, the reason for the emerald crabs is that you can expect an uptick in algae growth in in the interim. And yes, keep pulling it. While some folks will experience algae disappearing, I am less than optimistic and believe you take two courses of action, removing the invasion while establishing a balance where the corals outcompete the algae. IMO the more you can physically remove, the easier it will be to achieve stability and balance.

Algae will show up. IMO, the goal is to have enough nippers (herbivores who actually eat algae), healthy corals to compete for nutrients and space and coraline that keep enough algae at bay so you like how your tank looks
 
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45ZoaGarden

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10-4, makes sense, reading that and talking it out helps me think through it.

Should I continue with normal water changes?
I don’t think you need them. I would focus on manual removal and throw some algae eaters in there. As I previously said, a couple emeralds and a tuxedo urchin should help.
 

45ZoaGarden

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You could get a lawnmower bleny but the algae will go away eventually and he’ll be hungry. Mine cleans the glass and eats nori strips :)
 
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Just figured I'd post some pictures of the tank and an "update". Nitrates are now at 2 ppm and phosphate is still at .03. The coral all looks super happy now, and so does the GHA lol, which makes sense. I understand they are taking up nutrients, but I should still try to keep my levels above 0 correct?

Don't worry, I'm taking your advice and will be getting some emerald crabs and hopefully a tuxedo urchin this week. Just gotta get to the LFS. Reminding myself to not go for the quick fix and take it slow, but sometimes that's hard.

Not asking anyone to repeat themselves ;) just figure pictures show a lot more than words.

Would love to try a lawnmower blenny, but I QT all fish so it would be a while before he would get to go in the tank...may still try him for the future though.

IMG_8182.jpg IMG_8184.jpg IMG_8185.jpg IMG_8187.jpg IMG_8188.jpg
 

45ZoaGarden

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Just figured I'd post some pictures of the tank and an "update". Nitrates are now at 2 ppm and phosphate is still at .03. The coral all looks super happy now, and so does the GHA lol, which makes sense. I understand they are taking up nutrients, but I should still try to keep my levels above 0 correct?

Don't worry, I'm taking your advice and will be getting some emerald crabs and hopefully a tuxedo urchin this week. Just gotta get to the LFS. Reminding myself to not go for the quick fix and take it slow, but sometimes that's hard.

Not asking anyone to repeat themselves ;) just figure pictures show a lot more than words.

Would love to try a lawnmower blenny, but I QT all fish so it would be a while before he would get to go in the tank...may still try him for the future though.

IMG_8182.jpg IMG_8184.jpg IMG_8185.jpg IMG_8187.jpg IMG_8188.jpg
Yes, definitely try to keep the nutrients up. Once the cuc gets in the tank, that should help :)
 

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Hey guys, I'm relatively new to the salt world (started back in January) I'm noticing some issues with my corals that lead me to believe they may be similar to what you are experiencing. Recently I've had an algea bloom (minor bubble algea not bad, some cyanobacteria (I think), and what I believe may be calothrix ( a lot of it all over rock and sand)) I cleaned off my sand bed and put in 10 nassarius snails and a emerald crab. I am letting them do their thing. The tank is 36 gal, calcium is a little high (470) alk is good 8.5 mag needs to go up 1170, po is undetectable and Nitrate is around 25. At first I was worried about the nitrates beig so high but now you guys have made me realize that some is good (they still may be on the high side). The one thing I'm worried about is once I get my algea in check what should I try to keep my po and Nitrate around?
 

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Hey guys, I'm relatively new to the salt world (started back in January) I'm noticing some issues with my corals that lead me to believe they may be similar to what you are experiencing. Recently I've had an algea bloom (minor bubble algea not bad, some cyanobacteria (I think), and what I believe may be calothrix ( a lot of it all over rock and sand)) I cleaned off my sand bed and put in 10 nassarius snails and a emerald crab. I am letting them do their thing. The tank is 36 gal, calcium is a little high (470) alk is good 8.5 mag needs to go up 1170, po is undetectable and Nitrate is around 25. At first I was worried about the nitrates beig so high but now you guys have made me realize that some is good (they still may be on the high side). The one thing I'm worried about is once I get my algea in check what should I try to keep my po and Nitrate around?

Nassarius snails will not help you with the algae problem, they don't eat algae and they actually don't stir the sand, they just use it to hide, they are awesome for cleaning the leftover food and detritus, also 10 nass in a 36 look to much, in my 65 I only have 3. Unless you overfeed they will start dying (It happened to me when I had my 32 gal). For algae, get 1 emerald, crab. a few of trochus (I love those they are like lawnmowers) and one small urchin and you will be fina. I keep my NH3 between 5 and 20, I still don't have SPS my tank is a few months old, and the softies love it.
 

Nufish

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Nassarius snails will not help you with the algae problem, they don't eat algae and they actually don't stir the sand, they just use it to hide, they are awesome for cleaning the leftover food and detritus, also 10 nass in a 36 look to much, in my 65 I only have 3. Unless you overfeed they will start dying (It happened to me when I had my 32 gal). For algae, get 1 emerald, crab. a few of trochus (I love those they are like lawnmowers) and one small urchin and you will be fina. I keep my NH3 between 5 and 20, I still don't have SPS my tank is a few months old, and the softies love it.
Sorry I spoke wrong, they are astraea snails. Thank you for your NH3 specs
 

Difrano

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Sorry I spoke wrong, they are astraea snails. Thank you for your NH3 specs
Ok, astraea are very good for algae control, one thing I don't like about the astraea is they are super dumb, if they fall upside down on the sand they can't turn over themselves and they starve to death in that position just to increase your NH3 levels. That's another thing I love about trochus, they are indestructible, when I started my 32 I added 5 trochus and 5 astraea, after 1 year the astraea were all gone, my my trochus actually spawned and produced Babies.
 

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