120L (30G?) Shallow Reef

ENDUexe

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 24, 2025
Messages
13
Reaction score
19
Location
Durban, South Africa
What state or country do you live in
Other International
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hi Everyone,

After much deliberation, planning and a bit of arm-twisting, I finally got the ball rolling with my first reef tank.

I had originally planned to start a build log. However, given that the project is pretty much complete*TM* and the tank is officially cycling, this is going to be more of a retrospective than anything else.

For a bit of background, I run a small machine shop in South Africa. Hardware this side can be very expensive and, in a lot of cases, hard to come by. All of these factors pushed me to DIY most of the build, and here’s what we landed on.

Display: 75x45x30 cm, made from 8 mm low-iron glass with a 10 mm regular glass bottom.

IMG_3978.jpeg


This was an absolute nightmare, and I ended up redoing the silicone job four times before landing on something I was happy with. I wish there was more information out there about building tanks but it seems like it’s more art than science, and definitely something where experience is everything.

Cabinet: I tried to keep it fairly simple here and ended up making an ADA clone out of 18 mm birch ply, finished with a light oak tint and Woodoc Marine.

IMG_3890.jpeg


IMG_3951.jpeg

Overall, I’m very happy with how it turned out, even if I did have to strip the whole thing back to bare wood after putting down a bright orange stain without testing it first. Another lesson learned.

Sump: 50x40x40 cm custom PVC contraption, heavily inspired by the Fiji Cube offerings.

Initially, I planned to pick up a 2ft tank on Marketplace and simply glue some baffles into it, but that quickly turned into another fully custom build.

IMG_3969.jpeg

IMG_3982.jpeg


The sump was modeled after the Fiji Cube Advanced 20, with the major difference being that I went with PVC over acrylic. This was primarily due to cost, but it should also withstand a bit more abuse without the risk of cracking.

I definitely could have done a neater job with the glue-up, but other than that, no complaints.

Overflow: Custom slim overflow with a 3/4” Bean Animal drain layout. Similar story here… I really wanted to pick up a Ghost or Stealth overflow, but with local pricing, I had to make one instead.

IMG_3958.jpeg

IMG_3959.jpeg

IMG_3972.jpeg


The external box was made from the same 6 mm PVC stock I purchased for the sump, and the internal portion is 5 mm black acrylic.

I’m super stoked with how it’s been running over the past week or two. It’s dead silent at around 1,000 LPH and comfortably handles my return pump running at full tilt without flooding (even if it does get unbearably loud).

The rest of the hardware is as follow.
Light: 1x Noopsyche K7 Pro IV
Return Pump: Jebao GDP 3500
Heater: Compact SOBO 200W, running off an Inkbird
Roller Filter: Aipai F10
ATO: Jebao 150
Wavemaker: Jebao GLW 15
Battery Backup: EcoFlow River 2 Max

Planned Upgrades / To-Do List (Most of these will only come when or if livestock demands it):
1. Another K7 Pro for more even coverage.
2. Another Jebao GLW 15 for more flow and/or better coverage. Maybe a third for some flow in the sump?
3. Skimmer: Currently hunting for a used Bubble Magus Curve 3 or equivalent, and I'll add one as soon as I find something.
4. Dosing pump for All-For-Reef.
5. Custom PVC ATO reservoir to match the sump.
6. Cooling fans over the display. (Currently, I’m using a smart thermometer and an IR blaster to cycle the room's AC whenever the ambient temperature hits 26°C, but I want fans that can run off the battery backup if the power goes out on a hot day).

IMG_4050.jpeg

IMG_4080.jpeg

IMG_4075.jpeg


It was a ton of work (that ONLY took me 2 months!!!) but I’m glad I took the DIY route. I feel that building it all myself gave me a fundamental understanding of how my system works and I’m really hoping this carries forward as we turn the glass box of water into a (hopefully) thriving reef.

If you’ve made it this far, thanks for reading. I’m super excited for what’s to come and can't wait to start adding some livestock! If you have any questions or advice please shoot as I’d love to hear it.

Cheers!
 
Last edited:
Very nice looking build!

Is the sump made from E-PVC foam board? Did you build the sump yourself?
 
Very nice looking build!

Is the sump made from E-PVC foam board? Did you build the sump yourself?
Thanks!
I did and no, it’s U-PVC. I’ve worked with foam board a few times and wouldn’t trust it for much more than decorative applications.
 
Thanks!
I did and no, it’s U-PVC. I’ve worked with foam board a few times and wouldn’t trust it for much more than decorative applications.
That's what I would have thought about the E-PVC. I guess I'll have to look into the U-PVC.

Thanks!
 
Thanks!
I did and no, it’s U-PVC. I’ve worked with foam board a few times and wouldn’t trust it for much more than decorative applications.
That's what I would have thought about the E-PVC. I guess I'll have to look into the U-PVC.

Thanks!
No problem.
It’s the same material used for fitting and pipes. Easy to come by, cheaper than acrylic, machines incredibly well and it’s dead simple to glue up with any hardware pvc weld.
 
No problem.
It’s the same material used for fitting and pipes. Easy to come by, cheaper than acrylic, machines incredibly well and it’s dead simple to glue up with any hardware pvc weld.
That's good to know. I want to build my wife a tortoise enclosure, and on a tortoise forum I was told to use E-PVC sheets, but the material seems rather flimsy to me. I'll look and see if I can source the U-PVC in my area.
 
It's been a long month but as of tomorrow the tank is officially 1 month old and we are finally getting somewhere. Ammonia levels are almost zeroing out and nitrate is reading at around 20ppm.

For the first 2-3 weeks, my ammonia levels seemed to be pinned. Not entirely sure why, but I decided to pick up a cheap stick-on thermometer just to sanity check myself and I'm so glad I did.

It looks like my used Inkbird may have been defective. It was reporting 25 C while the water was frigid and the stick-on thermometer was reading 15-17 C. I tried calibrating it in an ice bath and it read correctly, but only a few days later it was stuck again at 25 C while the water was cold. Around the same time I decided to check my alk, which was sitting at 5.2. I dosed it up a bit, and between that and the temperature fix the cycle finally seemed to get moving.

Needless to say, the Inkbird has been replaced, but it also led me down a bit of a rabbit hole and gave me a solid project to kill time with. I picked up a Meross MTS960 as the replacement and promptly added it to Apple Home. After realising how easily that device could be switched off by accident, I decided to go another route. I have since set up a Home Assistant server so I could put read-only tiles in front of it, but one thing led to the next and I now have a full blown reef dashboard and a laundry list of additions that I plan to add.

What started with heater control quickly became pulling my Jebao devices into HA, then building parameter logging, and finally upgrading the Noopsyche lighting control.

I really wanted to make use of the control interface that BitBarista put together, the one change being that I wanted it all accessible on my network and through HA. Given these Noopsyche lamps just straight up don't work in LAN mode and only work over a direct AP connection, step one was bridging my home and lamp networks. What I landed on was connecting an ESP32 to the lamp and bridging that into my HA instance over USB serial.

IMG_4138.jpeg
IMG_4139.jpeg

IMG_4140.jpeg
IMG_4141.jpeg


We have a long weekend coming up this weekend and I'll 'unfortunately' be going away for it, but if parameters continue to track in the right direction, I should have my first fish on Monday. Super keen!
 
Really nice build, especially considering how much of it was DIY. The custom PVC sump and Bean Animal overflow are clever choices when equipment is expensive or hard to source locally. I’d mainly focus on keeping the system stable during the cycling phase before adding too much livestock. With a shallow tank, getting consistent flow and good surface movement should also help as the biological load increases. Looking forward to seeing how this one develops.
 
Yesterday marked the 1 month mark, so I decided to run a full panel of tests. Here are my current parameters.
Ammonia - 0 ppm
Nitrate ~20 ppm
Nitrite >1 ppm (off the charts on my Red Sea test kit)
Phosphate ~0.4 ppm
Alk - 7.7 dKH (still dropping pretty quickly, as I had dosed it up to 8.1 just the day before)
pH - 8.0
Temp & Salinity - Solid at 25.5 C and 1.025

Being pretty eager, I’ve been staring at this tank daily, looking for any sign of life. Yesterday, 1 month to the day, I noticed a diatom bloom with rusty looking red/brown spots scattered across the rock work and sand. I also noticed an increasing pod population, with the little guys visibly cruising all over the glass.

I've done a bit more reading regarding nitrite, and it seems like there are two main schools of thought.

Considering all of the above, do you think it would be safe to do a decent sized water change and add a couple of inverts in the next day or two, or should I hold off until nitrite drops back to zero?

My thought process was that if nitrite isn't toxic to marine life and there’s already an active food source, why not? I know diatoms are usually driven by silicates and tend to clear up on their own in a couple of weeks, but I’d love to finally get a bit of life into the tank.

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts. Thanks!
 
Hi Everyone,

After much deliberation, planning and a bit of arm-twisting, I finally got the ball rolling with my first reef tank.

I had originally planned to start a build log. However, given that the project is pretty much complete*TM* and the tank is officially cycling, this is going to be more of a retrospective than anything else.

For a bit of background, I run a small machine shop in South Africa. Hardware this side can be very expensive and, in a lot of cases, hard to come by. All of these factors pushed me to DIY most of the build, and here’s what we landed on.

Display: 75x45x30 cm, made from 8 mm low-iron glass with a 10 mm regular glass bottom.

IMG_3978.jpeg


This was an absolute nightmare, and I ended up redoing the silicone job four times before landing on something I was happy with. I wish there was more information out there about building tanks but it seems like it’s more art than science, and definitely something where experience is everything.

Cabinet: I tried to keep it fairly simple here and ended up making an ADA clone out of 18 mm birch ply, finished with a light oak tint and Woodoc Marine.

IMG_3890.jpeg


IMG_3951.jpeg

Overall, I’m very happy with how it turned out, even if I did have to strip the whole thing back to bare wood after putting down a bright orange stain without testing it first. Another lesson learned.

Sump: 50x40x40 cm custom PVC contraption, heavily inspired by the Fiji Cube offerings.

Initially, I planned to pick up a 2ft tank on Marketplace and simply glue some baffles into it, but that quickly turned into another fully custom build.

IMG_3969.jpeg

IMG_3982.jpeg


The sump was modeled after the Fiji Cube Advanced 20, with the major difference being that I went with PVC over acrylic. This was primarily due to cost, but it should also withstand a bit more abuse without the risk of cracking.

I definitely could have done a neater job with the glue-up, but other than that, no complaints.

Overflow: Custom slim overflow with a 3/4” Bean Animal drain layout. Similar story here… I really wanted to pick up a Ghost or Stealth overflow, but with local pricing, I had to make one instead.

IMG_3958.jpeg

IMG_3959.jpeg

IMG_3972.jpeg


The external box was made from the same 6 mm PVC stock I purchased for the sump, and the internal portion is 5 mm black acrylic.

I’m super stoked with how it’s been running over the past week or two. It’s dead silent at around 1,000 LPH and comfortably handles my return pump running at full tilt without flooding (even if it does get unbearably loud).

The rest of the hardware is as follow.
Light: 1x Noopsyche K7 Pro IV
Return Pump: Jebao GDP 3500
Heater: Compact SOBO 200W, running off an Inkbird
Roller Filter: Aipai F10
ATO: Jebao 150
Wavemaker: Jebao GLW 15
Battery Backup: EcoFlow River 2 Max

Planned Upgrades / To-Do List (Most of these will only come when or if livestock demands it):
1. Another K7 Pro for more even coverage.
2. Another Jebao GLW 15 for more flow and/or better coverage. Maybe a third for some flow in the sump?
3. Skimmer: Currently hunting for a used Bubble Magus Curve 3 or equivalent, and I'll add one as soon as I find something.
4. Dosing pump for All-For-Reef.
5. Custom PVC ATO reservoir to match the sump.
6. Cooling fans over the display. (Currently, I’m using a smart thermometer and an IR blaster to cycle the room's AC whenever the ambient temperature hits 26°C, but I want fans that can run off the battery backup if the power goes out on a hot day).

IMG_4050.jpeg

IMG_4080.jpeg

IMG_4075.jpeg


It was a ton of work (that ONLY took me 2 months!!!) but I’m glad I took the DIY route. I feel that building it all myself gave me a fundamental understanding of how my system works and I’m really hoping this carries forward as we turn the glass box of water into a (hopefully) thriving reef.

If you’ve made it this far, thanks for reading. I’m super excited for what’s to come and can't wait to start adding some livestock! If you have any questions or advice please shoot as I’d love to hear it.

Cheers!
This is impressive, I’ve tried following one of serpa designs diy tank and it was a process. You are skilled and very determined to have the silicone redone four times lol, it all looks great though!
 
This is impressive, I’ve tried following one of serpa designs diy tank and it was a process. You are skilled and very determined to have the silicone redone four times lol, it all looks great though!
As for the inverts, I think having a sign for the diatoms and slight algae growth would be a green light to put a few clean up crew members in.
 
Sounds like you can start with CuC. Maybe start with half. 10 snails, 5 hermits, seed the tank with a jar of copepods.
 
This is impressive, I’ve tried following one of serpa designs diy tank and it was a process. You are skilled and very determined to have the silicone redone four times lol, it all looks great though!
Appreciate it. Determined or stupid, it's a fine line 🤣
The glass was by far the most challenging part and I'm not sure I will ever sign up for that again.

As for the inverts, I think having a sign for the diatoms and slight algae growth would be a green light to put a few clean up crew members in.
Sounds like you can start with CuC. Maybe start with half. 10 snails, 5 hermits, seed the tank with a jar of copepods.
Thanks for the confirmation, I thought I should be in the clear. I'll hit up the LFS after work today and get some critters.
 

WHICH PART OF YOUR SETUP IS HARDEST TO REACH OR REMOVE FOR ROUTINE MAINTENANCE?

  • Glass behind or beside the tank

    Votes: 12 17.9%
  • Powerheads or wavemakers

    Votes: 5 7.5%
  • Sump or rear filtration chambers

    Votes: 9 13.4%
  • Skimmer or other filtration equipment

    Votes: 9 13.4%
  • Overflow or plumbing

    Votes: 12 17.9%
  • Lights or lids

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Mine is pretty easy to access!

    Votes: 19 28.4%
  • Other—tell us what I missed

    Votes: 1 1.5%
Back
Top
Home
Post thread…
Market
What's new