Hi All! Thanks in advance for any advice to this newbie! I have had planted freshwater tanks for quite some time and would like to move into a reef tank. I currently have a 135 gallon planted that I am downsizing on and want to use the 135 gallon for a reef tank. My question is around sumps and refugiums... do you have to have them? There is so much info out there and it is a little overwhelming. I live in a very remote area, so getting my tank drilled is not an option, and I am worried about doing it myself. I am trying to avoid buying a whole new tank and stand since I have a perfectly good one. Any advice? Thanks!!
135 with no sump/refugium? New Tank Question
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Peach02
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Welcome to Reef2Reef!
It can definitely be done but it means you will have to have alot of equipment in the tank that we often keep in the sump. For example we keep skimmers in the sump but there are hang on the back skimmers. Ryan from BRS did this for his first tank and briefly tanks about it here.
It can definitely be done but it means you will have to have alot of equipment in the tank that we often keep in the sump. For example we keep skimmers in the sump but there are hang on the back skimmers. Ryan from BRS did this for his first tank and briefly tanks about it here.
SPR1968
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You don’t need a sump, but it will make running the system so much easier if you have one.
You may find some useful information here as well:
www.reef2reef.com
And Welcome to R2R!!!
You may find some useful information here as well:
The Supreme Guide To Setting Up A Saltwater Reef Aquarium
The Supreme Guide To Setting Up A Saltwater Reef Aquarium This article was sponsored by @MarineDepot at www.marinedepot.com. Introduction The marine environment is one of the most complex systems on the planet. The aquarium you are about to set up is only a tiny sliver of the vast ocean...
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HawaiianReef
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You don't need a sump or a skimmer or any of that. But it has become s common staple in the reefing hobby. The skimmer just helps remove some of the organics and a sump just makes things easier for maintenance.
You actually could just run circulation pumps and a heater without Any type of nutrient export. So No filters at all. And just rely on water changes. But st 135g, you'd want to do as little water changes you can to keep to cost down. This is where the skimmer comes in. It will remove a Lot of organic waste, making your nutrients lower. Then the sump. You don't have to have a sump to run a skimmer, but it makes the display look a lot better And the mechanical filtration you get from reusable filter socks helps out as much as the skimmer. So your removing a ton of organic wastes with just the filter socks in the sump, and the skimmer. That means less saltwater to make and a lot less money needed to maintain the tank.
I would Definitely drill out the tank and use a sump. You can drill it yourself. The most important thing there is to drilling glass is, patience. Dont push down on the drill. It could take a good 10-15 min per hole and that's fine. Just don't rush it. Get a 10g tank to practice on. That glass is thin, so if you can drill through the 10g without adding too much pressure, you can drill your 135.
You actually could just run circulation pumps and a heater without Any type of nutrient export. So No filters at all. And just rely on water changes. But st 135g, you'd want to do as little water changes you can to keep to cost down. This is where the skimmer comes in. It will remove a Lot of organic waste, making your nutrients lower. Then the sump. You don't have to have a sump to run a skimmer, but it makes the display look a lot better And the mechanical filtration you get from reusable filter socks helps out as much as the skimmer. So your removing a ton of organic wastes with just the filter socks in the sump, and the skimmer. That means less saltwater to make and a lot less money needed to maintain the tank.
I would Definitely drill out the tank and use a sump. You can drill it yourself. The most important thing there is to drilling glass is, patience. Dont push down on the drill. It could take a good 10-15 min per hole and that's fine. Just don't rush it. Get a 10g tank to practice on. That glass is thin, so if you can drill through the 10g without adding too much pressure, you can drill your 135.
arturoo1977
Active Member
As all others said, you dont need a sump or a refugium, but its very convenient by two main reasons (IMO):
1.- You add water volume to your system. More room to disolve things.
2.- Its easier to hide and run many of the equipment like filters, skimmers, reactors, heaters etc. Although you have HOB versions of many of this things.
So, no needed, but very convenient.
On the other hand, no sump systems have also some goodies:
1.- Simplier setup. No piping, no downpipes, no return pump to rely on.
I'm setting up right now a 110gal with no sump. My tank has an intank overflow box filter in one corner. You can build one with some acrylic sheets and glass.
1.- You add water volume to your system. More room to disolve things.
2.- Its easier to hide and run many of the equipment like filters, skimmers, reactors, heaters etc. Although you have HOB versions of many of this things.
So, no needed, but very convenient.
On the other hand, no sump systems have also some goodies:
1.- Simplier setup. No piping, no downpipes, no return pump to rely on.
I'm setting up right now a 110gal with no sump. My tank has an intank overflow box filter in one corner. You can build one with some acrylic sheets and glass.
BeejReef
2500 Club Member
I'm sure it's possible to run a bigger tank sumpless. I think you're more capable than you think and could drill your tank.
Anyhow, consider the equipment, tubing, and power cords you will need running up the side of your DT, even in a very simple setup
- auto top off tubing
- heater(s) cords
- dosing tubing
- filter power cord
That's all without considering stuff like reactors or bags of carbon, hang on back refugiums or fuge lights, a skimmer (if desired). That's all stuff that has to be moved around and fiddled with whenever you clean your glass or do major maintenance as well. Also, any level sensors would have to sit in the DT and be subject to the wave action of the powerheads.
All that hang on back stuff costs a fair bit too. Not like it's 70% less than the full-sized gear you can fit into a sump. That, and it's generally less effective. Can do, but would be limiting IMHO.
Anyhow, consider the equipment, tubing, and power cords you will need running up the side of your DT, even in a very simple setup
- auto top off tubing
- heater(s) cords
- dosing tubing
- filter power cord
That's all without considering stuff like reactors or bags of carbon, hang on back refugiums or fuge lights, a skimmer (if desired). That's all stuff that has to be moved around and fiddled with whenever you clean your glass or do major maintenance as well. Also, any level sensors would have to sit in the DT and be subject to the wave action of the powerheads.
All that hang on back stuff costs a fair bit too. Not like it's 70% less than the full-sized gear you can fit into a sump. That, and it's generally less effective. Can do, but would be limiting IMHO.
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