Dr. Dendrostein
Marine fish monthly
Being in construction field from 1985 till 2010. From skyscraper for Taco Bell in OC. Toyota racing development for Indy engines in Costa Mesa, (Paul Newman's favorite spot).
To Drew Struzan art studio in North Hollywood, (real nice guy). I've see alot.
But never an Aquarium Museum from bottom up. So how much to build one in 1997 and what's included? Here's some food for thought.
This would cost (1997?) l2-l5 million...or $364 to $454 per square foot. This includes a 313 seat auditorium, lobby, gift shop, library, l2 offices, 6 bathrooms, photo room, print room, shop, kitchen, 7 classrooms/labs, storage rooms, and the original 27 display tanks. We have about a 7-acre site for this aquarium with a lot of parking but no native plant display area outside. Copies of the plans of the Aquarium in Biloxi are going to be delivered to you. Good clay was brought in and packed to raise the building above storm surges. Pilings were driven to support the weight of tanks and the major support columns of building, and piling caps of concrete were poured. All tank drain piping to sumps was laid in clay (making sure clay under pipe was well packed so pipe did not bend and crack), and the tanks were poured with concrete. All plumbing/wiring was verified correct and then the floor and sumps were poured. Then support columns for building were poured, and it was blocked in between support columns to make room divisions.
We have about 75 pilings under this building, 50 being under the aquarium area supporting the tanks. Pilings should go down to solid footing. Here they now drive/vibrate hollow steel pilings down to about any level they want, weld on more sections as they go, then send high pressure water down pipe to drive dirt out, and then fill the hollow pipe with concrete. This procedure is EXPENSIVE, but these type pilings are stronger than driven wood pilings and fewer would be needed.
On any Aquarium the first concern is location, location, location:
...Must be in a location of easy, safe access by the public (not like one American aquarium which is out of the way and one has to drive through high-crime areas).
...Must be built on good solid earth (to support the weight of much water). Best to build on rock. You want to avoid driving many expensive pilings.
...Have to decide whether you are going to use natural waters (like some aquariums) or mix your own saltwater (SW) (like our aquarium). If you use natural water it must be of high quality OR filtered variously prior to introduction to tanks. The support systems, etc. will differ depending on which way you decide to do it (natural vs. man-made water). You will need access to good freshwater also; either via well or city water (we use city water and then treat it to remove chlorine, ammonia, and chloroamines).
...You should have natural FW and SW marsh areas (or the plant areas you talked about) to receive waste waters from the tanks. You could design this into your plant displays outside.
...You should be close to those who make their living from the sea. Why? Because they will bring you specimens for your displays. Here I let my collectors in free and they become part of the operation.
...HEIGHT...Aquarium building should be on ground high enough to prevent damage from storm surges; and this height can also be used for good outflow of waste waters.
...STORMS...must design aquarium so that storms do not knock you out of business by not having power to run your tanks. If you are in a typhoon area, suggest you design aquarium like ours: Tanks are run by air power (undergravel tank systems); with a natural gas (buried pipes that are rarely damaged by storms) powered generator that kicks on to run air blowers when power goes off. Extra electric-powered sand, diatomaceous earth, etc., filters can be put on tanks to increase water clarity, increase biological filtration, decrease diseases, etc. Previous would be for man-made sea water. Different designs would be needed for flow-through (natural sea water) system. You will have to decide which way to go. But with a flow-thru system you will still need to have ways to run tanks, and various pumps and air systems when power goes off.
In building an aquarium you usually put in the large tanks first, then build the building around these tanks. Smaller tanks can be added later. I would have the building front designed to represent something that the public can easily recognize from their culture, e.g., a favorite fish, etc., etc.
Tank comments
...Tanks should have smooth contours (no sharp corners) so fish that cannot swim backwards do not get "trapped" in corners.
...Drains should be at LOWEST point of tank to remove all fish wastes.
...Can use concrete and acrylic for bigger tanks, fiberglass and shatterproof glass for smaller tanks.
...Acrylic or tempered glass tank windows must be protected by set-off tempered glass external protection. Why? Want to keep acrylic tanks from being scratched by public so viewing is obscured. Outside sheet of tempered glass protects any tempered glass tank windows when public bangs on them (to get fish moving, etc.) or tests diamond rings on windows (big problem here...girls wanting to verify their men REALLY gave them a diamond). You do not want the public directly beating on tank windows or scratching them. The extra tempered glass cover also helps lessen the noise of pumps, aeration, and running water from behind the display tanks.
…You can buy previously-made fiberglass tanks, cut out a wall section, install tempered glass or an acrylic panel over hole as a viewing port, and slide tank to viewing port. Tank size can be l000 gals or more.
…You can get fiberglass or acrylic tanks made to your specifications; FDA food grade fiberglass is less toxic than boat fiberglass.
We use all-glass aquaria up to the 210 gallon size. The cost for tank alone is $1-2 per gallon. These tanks are in a small tank display area, plus in isolated small tank displays in various parts of the building.
Fiberglass 210 gallon display tanks, with tempered glass front and back, cost about $3000 each. A mold is made of design wanted, then tanks are made off this mold; fiberglass tanks like these cost about $15 per gallon. We have l9 of these in a clover-leaf design around a central circular main tank.
We have 7 medium size tanks (l200-4000 gallons) that are in the corners of the alcoves formed by the l9 fiberglass tanks. These tanks are concrete with acrylic viewing windows and with tempered glass covers so acrylic tank window does not get scratched. I would estimate 1997 cost at $15-20 per gallon.
The circular main tank is made of concrete and has 14 acrylic viewing windows, holds 42,000 gallons, and would cost from $800,000 to $1 million.
Other tank costs: 500 gal circular acrylic tank, with stand, light hood...$l8,000
210 gal all-glass tank.......$250
30 gal all-glass tank .........$45
This aquarium originally had 27 display tanks. We did later construction and moved things around to add 21 more tanks. Some were small tanks (10-30 gallon) in a wall 3 tanks high. These tanks are used to quickly display animals of local or seasonal interest, fish with various diseases (lymphocystis; isopods; leeches; etc), dangerous marine organisms, those used in aquaculture, etc.
In addition to display tanks, you will need back up tanks behind the scenes for holding, treatment, quarantine, rearing, etc. We have about l00, varying in size from 10 to 1000 gallons. Smaller tanks are all-glass and cost $1-2 per gallon. Larger tanks are fiberglass (no windows) and cost about $2 per gallon. Filters, pumps, plumbing, air lines, light fixtures, etc., are extra costs.
If you are making your own salt water you will need mixing tanks behind the scenes. We have two (each about 9500 gallons), one for mixing up/aging/treating salt water; the other for holding fresh water and treating it for chlorine, ammonia, etc. These tanks are concrete, interconnected to each other and to two mixing/transfer pumps (5 hp...about $800-$1000 each) so we can mix, use either pump, and send water to any tank in building.
All display and back-up tanks are separate units; water does not flow from one tank to the next. So we can vary temperature and salinity per tank, plus isolate any disease outbreak. If you use flow through water, tank designs will be different.
AQUARIUM SUPPORT
Of prime importance in the aquarium area is the support system that will be built into the building: emergency power, air, water, electricity, alarms, drains for waste, lighting, graphic panels, etc.
Emergency power:
You will probably need an emergency generator for power outages. We have a natural gas powered generator ($10,000 - 20,000) which supplies power for a blower system (for air to tanks) + several key outlets for emergency lights + some of the electrical pumps. This generator is hooked up to main power panel so when power is cut off for 30 seconds the generator is started. In our situation, this is THE most important piece of equipment in the building; it will save your animals when power goes off. It will probably cost $1000+ to hook up to main power lines; + unknown amount to hook up to natural gas (cost of gas regulator + piping, etc).
There is an alarm system on the generator to warn us of low battery charge (that would prevent generator starting), etc.
Air
We use regenerative rotary blowers for air supply to tanks. Have 3 blowers, use 1 each week; rotation extends life of blower. Cost of $7000 - 10,000 each. Will need blowers of 5-8 psi to get air to bottom of 8-9 foot tank. Air lines are PVC pipe, larger (6") at blower (to decrease heat of air friction) and decreasing in diameter as get to smaller tanks (1"). In large pipe past manifold where 3 blowers join there is a sensor which will detect when the air is not working; it is tied into an alarm phone service to notify aquarium staff when air is off.
PVC pipe plus labor to hook up for air lines will be in the thousands of dollars. Have shut-off valves at various points in lines so can shut off air to 1 or more tanks but rest will still have air. Also have shut off valves to control air to each tank.
Air intake (here) is through a vented hole in machine room wall on second floor; this is not the best idea. Air system should draw non-polluted air (ours faces a public marina and boat fumes are drawn into tanks = bad). You might want to put an air filtering (activated carbon) unit prior to blower intake.
Alarms
Fire, smoke, emergency first aid, police, generator, and air off alarm systems. Do not install smoke detectors on ceiling over tanks, salt air corrodes detectors and makes them go off all the time. We also have an alarm at front admissions desk that can be activated if there is trouble (robbery, violent patron, injury to patron, etc.).
Cover any pull alarms in public areas so people won't set them off as pranks (mostly done by children).
Electricity
As previously said, need emergency power generator.
You want to wire in enough electrical panels and enough outlets to handle expansion. You'll probably need 5000-l0,000 AMP service, 3-phase. All wiring should be in PVC conduits, boxes, switches, etc., to ****** salt corrosion. Outlets around tanks should be on ground-fault interrupters for safety. Outlets should be above tanks to prevent water getting into boxes. Keep lighting on separate circuits from outlets for electrical support equipment (pumps, filters…because if you put lighting on automatic timers at the breaker panel you do not want to turn anything else off). Breakers in panels should be minimum of 20 AMPS for each circuit; I prefer 30 AMPS per circuit so you can put two sand filters on the same circuit.
Our tanks from 210 gallons on up have 3 outlets above each tank, the 2 outside are for tank lights and are connected to a timer that can be set for automatic light on-off control. The middle outlet (a separate circuit) is live 24 hours per day, and is used to run pumps/filters or other things that have to run all the time (UV sterilizers, etc).
We have 4 main panels that run all items for aquarium:
....shop, kitchen, garbage disposal, fridge, freezer, stove, dishwasher, microwave (36 breakers)
....graphic lights (on tanks), aquarium ceiling lights (which can be dimmed), outlets on walls opposite tanks, misc. (36 breakers)
....Timer for lights, tank lights, outlets for pumps/filters, big freezer, large pump/filters, (36 breakers)
....blowers, mix-pumps, monorail hoists (2), water heaters, etc.
We are constantly adding more outlets as we get more money for pumps, filters, new tanks, etc.
Electricity for whole building will run into hundreds of thousands...depending on what you do.
Plumbing
Use PVC, acrylic, or stainless steel pipes, no copper, zinc, or lead in pipes (toxic). Install cut-off valves at places so you can isolate various areas from water flow so plumbing can be worked on, repaired, expanded, etc. Do not want system designed so shutting off water at one place will affect water supply to other critical areas of building (bathrooms, water heaters, boiler, kitchen, aquarium, outside faucets, etc.).
Flow-through SW supply
If this is way you go, need 2 SEPARATE pump/ intake systems. Run one for 1-2 weeks, then run other, so there is no big build-up of fouling organisms inside pipes to clog them. The separate systems should run UP to a filtration system which filters out fouling organisms prior to going to display tanks. Need way to back-flush pipes after organisms set (attach) inside pipes so dead stuff is flushed out downhill ( and not to display tanks)...OR valve just prior to filters to dump fouled water prior to going to filters/tanks.
If you use a flow-through system, the intake should not be near surface (to avoid intake of floating oils, pollution, FW flows) and not near bottom (to avoid intake of sediments and toxins that concentrate in sediments).
Water
See previous comments on water supply and mixing tanks.
Water pipes should be PVC as much as possible to avoid heavy metal toxicity. Should have FW + SW going to each tank. Install several shut-off valves so can isolate and work on various parts of the water system. Cost of water system will be in thousands.
May add filters to incoming water (added cost) to clarify and detoxify water.
Would be good to have your own private FW, and maybe even SW, well.
Drains
The whole back area where we work on the tanks, our holding tank areas, etc., are concrete floors sloped to 3 sumps on one side and 2 sumps on the other side. All excess/waste water goes to floor sumps/drains and then goes into the local Bay about 200 yards away. The drains for all our medium and large tanks go directly into these sumps. The butterfly valves on the tank drains are in these sumps; valves and drain pipes are 6-8" PVC. These valves are expensive, $500-1200 each. The sumps are 4-8 feet deep with a metal grate slotted cover on top. Slotted cover to let floor water run into sump. Water drained from our small tanks is drained to the floor, and then runs to the sumps. When you do your aquarium, need to make these sumps WIDER to have easier human body access to open valves for water changes, work on valves, etc. Our sumps are only about 30" square at top; need to be at least 36", maybe even larger for easier access.
The large tank and both mix-tanks have overflow pipes which also drain to these sumps. Cut PVC overflow pipe at highest level you want water to be in tanks, and screen overflows to prevent animals, etc from going down overflow pipes.
All 5 sumps drain to a manhole outside building with an about l0-12" PVC pipe in the bottom, which (in our case) runs about 200 yards to dump into our local BAY. Our waste waters are not treated in any way; this could be better, as medications, chemicals, etc., used in our operation also go down the drain. Your idea of using this water in an artificial marsh/wetland area outside the building for an added attraction would be excellent. You could make a raised walk nature trail in this area.
Lighting
- All small tanks (l0-100 gals) just have fluorescent light fixtures laying on top (or just above) of tank, l5-25 watt. Usually cool-white, but also use gro-lux, design50, actinic, Vita lites, etc. Usually have less problem with algae with just cool-white. These fixtures run $l0 to over $100 each, bulb extra ($8-30). Some tanks have glass lids which lights rest upon.
- 2l0 gal tanks: Original set-up was two outdoor flood light fixtures (that swivel), one above each end of tank. Can direct light; used l50 w flood light bulbs, clear, blue, green, red, yellow. Different colors used (trial and error) to see which would be best for LESS algal growth. Found BLUE in our case to work best. Lights are about 2 feet above the water in tank.
- Medium-sized tanks: Tanks have combinations of flood lights (l50 w) and cool-white (usually). Each tank with 1-2, 2-unit fluorescent fixtures above water (2-3 feet) attached to angle iron grid-work that juts out over tank. This grid must be strong enough to support weight of lights PLUS someone leaning out to change bulbs. Some tanks with added l50 w flood lights. We changed lighting so that we got less algae to grow and thus had less work cleaning the viewing windows.
- Large tank: It has a large grid system about 8 feet above water that is both suspended from ceiling with rods and supported by resting on safety railing around walk around top of main tank. This tank has 4, 250w metal halide lights, about 50, 150w flood lights, and several fluorescent lights. It's a mixture that NO lighting engineer has inspected or given approval to. It works.
- Night light: All medium/large tanks have small fluorescent lights that are on all the time. This is so when lights go out there is a little light left which simulates moonlight for the fish, and does not give a sudden change from lighting to darkness (which can frighten some fish). Lights on 210, medium, and large tanks are all connected to timer that turns lights on at 7:30 am and off at about 5 pm. So have about 9.5 hrs of light per day.
- Misc. display lights: For reptiles in vivarium, and various snake enclosures, etc. we have various lights with a high CRI (color rendering index) to simulate natural sunlight so animals get some vitamin D. Use lights of CRI of 95 or higher (l00 = sunlight).
Our systems work...but I'm sure a lighting engineer could improve them.
For working lights in area behind aquarium we have 4 foot fluorescent fixtures plus 8 large 250 w metal halide fixtures on ceiling.
In times of power failure we have battery-powered lights over each tank that automatically come on when power goes off. These give enough light so patrons can still see into tanks.
In the viewing area, light is primarily supplied via tank lights. The walls, etc are black so that the tanks stand out. We have lights in the ceiling on dimmer switches to control amount of extra light we want. When handicapped people from local hospitals come in we can turn up lights so they can see better to navigate while viewing tanks.
- Rest of Building: Lobby = metal halide lights. Offices, library, halls, other areas = 4 foot fluorescent fixtures, cool white. Auditorium = flood light fixtures on dimmer switch. Outside = flood or mercury vapor lights.
GRAPHIC PANELS
Each tank should have at least one graphic panel with a color picture and verbiage about each thing in tank. Most of our panels are just below the tanks, not flat against wall but at about a 45 degree angle. Each panel has 1 or more 4' fluorescent light fixtures in back which shine through graphics. Graphics sandwiched between opaque Plexiglas behind and clear plexi in front.
These panels match walls = plywood covered with black Formica. with light fixture. They can be made for about $100-200 each. For larger tanks we have 3-8 such panels. For vivarium and small tank display, the panels are over the tanks.
For quick graphics you can scan pictures onto white paper, and cut to fit panel. These work ok for temporary graphics. Permanent graphics are cibachrome prints that cost about $50-75 each.
MIX-PUMPS/other pumps:
Pumps and filters should have fiberglass housings to combat salt water corrosion. We have two mix-pumps for two mix tanks, with plumbing/valves so we can use either pump on either tank to send water to display tanks, or to other mix tank. These mix-pumps run all the time to add oxygen to water and to thoroughly mix salt and to be available to immediately pump water out of mix tanks to display tanks. Lines are 4" PVC going down to l" for 210 tanks. You need two pipe systems if want to keep FW and SW separate. Otherwise have to drain pipes to get type water (FW OR SW) you want....this is a bother and can lead to mistakes. I installed a submersible pump in FW mix tank and pump water via hose to where it is needed, and use PVC pipes for SW only.
Mix tanks are concrete, bottom sloped to drain, overflow pipe going to sumps, city water plumbed to top of tanks. Square manhole in top middle with wooden cover to: prevent people falling into, keep trash out of water, keep light out of tanks (decrease algal growth). Mix pumps lower than tank bottom...pump from bottom. Pumps in a sump with a DRAIN to outside so if pipes leak sump not filled and ruin pump motors. These mix pumps run about $800-1000 each. Breaker panels nearby so can be thrown quickly in emergencies.
Water aerated by pumps to blow off chlorine from city water; AmQuel added to neutralize ammonia in water. (can also use zeolites for ammonia removal in FW...prior to adding salt). Can also put charcoal filter in line prior to mix tank.
Costs: Big sand filters and pumps = $l400 each, DE filters and pumps = $700 each.
Exhibits in aquarium viewing area (in addition to graphics):
...Light panel depicting water cycle
...About 25 large mounted fish
...Stuffed, mounted amelanistic sea turtle
...Record sizes of local SW fish
...Record sizes of local FW fish
...Graphic of river systems of Mississippi
...Each alcove has a 3-6' picture of organisms found in the habitat type of the alcove (alcove= 5 210 gallon tanks + 1-2 medium tanks).
...Posters informing public about tagged fish
...Info concerning life-span of different types of litter (with examples of the litter)
...Info on hazards of 6-pack rings; and plastic recycling programs
...Cartoons depicting the bad things about ocean litter
...Picture of me holding newly hatched loggerhead sea turtle
...Plaques mounted above tanks that have been adopted by the public (they donate money to run tank for a year at a time)
...Plastic floral displays above/around tanks depicting seasons
...Flowers/leaves/flags/etc. (changing with season)
...Needlework showing some of our native plants
Living exhibits in aquarium: We are mandated to display organisms native to Mississippi and the adjacent Gulf of Mexico. We also try to emphasize organisms used in aquaculture (FW & SW) in our state, various diseased fish to inform public; various unusual things; fishes of sport fish interest; fishes used in toxicity testing of our local streams; organisms researched by our staff with verbiage explaining the research; commercially important invertebrates (crabs, shrimp, oysters, etc); things of seasonal interest; organisms constricted by plastic litter; other things of interest.
Aquascaping the tanks: We add local plants, logs, shells, bottles, nets, etc. to decorate tanks.
Vivarium: waterproof box with double paned viewing window. expandable foam (polyurethane) contoured to form banks of stream, covered with fiberglass, last layer of gel mixed with sand so it looks like a sand beach; water flows between bank and window so public can look through window to see animals underwater. Back wall is a mural showing progression from wetland to Cyprus swamp. One corner has Cyprus knees + hanging Spanish moss...to match Cyprus in mural. Sand put into stream so turtles can bury up.
Lighting with high CRI for turtles.
FW 210's: pea gravel as substrate; logs; native FW plants. Back glass painted a sandy color. One tank set up as a small vivarium; this is where we put baby alligators and baby turtles. Stream (water area) against tank window at front. Lexan top on all 210's to decrease evaporation, decrease spray, prevent animals from jumping out, prevent foreign objects/dust from entering tanks, etc. Each lexan cover costs about $75.
Aquascaping: Medium/large tanks. We use fake rocks made out of fiberglass; PVC pipe burned with a blowtorch to make it look like a log or piling; real rocks; fiberglass boats/boat parts; trawl boards with iron foot removed and all bolts replaced with stainless steel bolts; glass floats; fake anchors made out of PVC pipe; tufa rock mortared together to look like a coral reef; logs, some of which are hollowed out and filled with concrete so they sink; dead coral; deal sea fans; shells; concrete caves; live plants; bottles, other debris found on our local beaches, etc.
We also use plastic grass/plants in various tanks; this is ripped up and ingested by sea turtles and torn up by triggerfish.
COLOR of tank walls: each alcove has tanks painted inside with a different color epoxy-type non-toxic paint. FW= sandy color; offshore tanks = blue, etc.
LOBBY EXHIBITS: (live potted plants all around)
...Discovery island...box with specimens inside covered chambers, outside has various Questions, open lid to find the specimen answer.
...sea shells....about 3-4 thousand labeled and in glass cases
...tank with live gopher tortoise
...l2 tanks with non-poisonous snakes
...NOAA mission verbiage display
...sand castings of various sea life
...murals showing local aquatic scenes
...wall mural showing map of region
...tank with live lungfish
...2 touch tanks that public can pick up animals from
...mural of an oyster reef and related animals living there
...local art depicting marine life or scenes (30)
...stained glass hanging from ceiling depicting local animals (30)
...two video monitors playing programs about marine life
...pictures of some of our program activities
...bathythermograph in case; verbiage explaining its operation
...trawl with TED (turtle excluder device) and fake turtle hanging from ceiling
...Biloxi pulling skiff
...portable display showing activities of the Institute
...bulletin board about sleep-over programs
...tank with American Lobster
...tanks with rocky shore animals
...small model aquaculture system for crayfish
...partial sei whale skull/jaws
...tables for small kids with animal puzzles
...preserved specimens in cases on wall with Plexiglas front (about l25 bottles)
...examples of our fish museum collections
...case with local fossils
...shrimp life cycle on wall
...shrimp landings per year on wall
...State symbols on wall
...misc. tagging posters
...other minor things ...shadow boxes (5) with dried animals coated with epoxy
Exhibits going up ramp to auditorium:
...pictures of local birds on wall
...case with local artifacts
...skulls, skeletons
...biodiversity posters from Sea Grant (l2)
...simulated osprey nest
...pictures of local mushrooms
...case with fossil shake teeth
...beachcombing display with things found on local beaches
...1 live snake tank
...display on cobia and tagging program; mounted cobia
...misc. bird houses on poles
...mural of local island
Above, plus what previously sent, are our main exhibits. In halls, library...various posters on sea life, whales, sea turtles, snakes, stuffed animals, etc.
AUDITORIUM: videos on sea life, etc. run continuously. Each clip is about l5 minutes with tape lasting about 2 hrs; automatic rewind on tape so a human worker is not needed in the auditorium all day, just to start and stop the video. Our new video projector cost $14,000. Auditorium also has posters, murals on walls.
Space Utilization
Space utilization in facility: total of 33,000 square feet
...Aquarium display area....4335
...Behind scenes of Aquarium (work area)....3500
TOTAL Aquarium....7835 ( 24 % of building)
...Auditorium....3658 (11%)
...Lobby/gift....3603 (11%)
...Library....702 (2%)
...6 classrooms/labs....4839 (15%)
...gift shop....540
Remaining 37% of building is included in bathrooms, halls, offices, print room, photo room, janitor's closets, storage, stairwells, elevator, machine room, electrical power room, shop, kitchen, video room, etc.
If I were to redesign this building I would allow more space for gift shop, classrooms, back-up tanks behind scenes, library, storage, and lobby (so could get in more displays). For your Aquarium I would also include space for a restaurant/snack area for the patrons, plus an outside area with picnic tables in a natural display-type setting.
Our space could be better utilized by having educators stationed in classrooms (that would also be their office), thus freeing up office space they now utilize. Could have a small area in each classroom sectioned off so it could be secured. Classroom would then serve as office, lab, and a classroom. I would also allow more fridge/freezer storage space. Need freezer space to store at least 1000 lbs. of frozen fish/squid/shrimp for aquarium food. My new 3-door upright freezer that can hold about 1500 lbs. cost $4800.
Facility problems you should avoid
Here I will mention some of the problems with our facility (some have been corrected):
....Medium and large tanks were designed with flat bottoms (for ease of pouring concrete?) and organics don't drain well when drain valve opened.
....Fiberglass screen on filter grid not protected by another grid to prevent ripping by sea turtles and triggerfish. (This was corrected when we renovated the large tank in 1997.)
....Sumps too small and hard to get into to manually open/close drain valves.
....Flood light fixtures made of aluminum corrode and short out frequently.
....Medium tanks with no overflow pipes. Forgetful workers leave water on and flood the viewing area.
....Not enough holding, back-up, or treatment tanks, or floor space for tanks.
....Not enough storage area; need .more shelving and storage bins.
....Too small breakers in electrical panels. Increase amps per breaker so can handle new pumps installed.
....Not enough wall outlets (for pumps, filters, etc.).
....Exposed air, water, and electric lines on top of Aquarium viewing area present trip hazard and waste space. People walking on top have busted pipes, causing water to flood viewing area below. Space on top could be utilized for storage or offices if done correctly (but would still need access to all piping...for repair, extending lines, etc.)
....Drain for main tank was outside building; anyone could have opened manhole and drained our main tank (now corrected).
....Butterfly valves allow debris to get trapped when closing (valve not totally shut) causing leaks. Valves over last l4 years = harder to open and close. Get good quality valves.
....In some of the tanks fish (that swim upstream) jump down airlift standpipes, get under filter, die, and can cause loss of animals in tank. Put screens on ends of airlifts.
....210's were designed wrong: corners...where fish that cannot back up try to swim forward into corner....messes up their snouts, exhausts fish. Have rounded corners.
Drain in 210 tanks was not put at lowest point of tank, so organics do not all drain out...so cannot get tanks cleaned properly.
....No support across fiberglass tank tops...water caused tanks to bow outwards, causing sealant around windows to pull away in 210 gal display tanks, causing leaks.
....Many of our lights are too high up for us to change bulbs ourselves, requiring lifts and added expense to change a few bulbs.
....Built-up flat roof PVC liner easily blown off in hurricanes, leading to water damage everywhere. Also rocks on roof holding down liner get blown around in storms, damaging cars, and breaking out our windows.
....Built-up flat roof has bad leak problems that we still cannot seem to fix.
....Rugs throughout building are too easily stained by spilled drinks.
....Although building was put on pilings, sidewalks and parking areas were not....areas around building settled, as much as 4", putting strain on pipes under sidewalks and busting them. Big pain!!!
....Mix tank drains were directed to side of hill building sat on; so when we drained SW tank we killed some of our grass. Need to direct this water to main sump, to wetland area, or someplace other than onto grass.
....Our city water is very bad for aquatic organisms, being full of debris (brown), chlorine, ammonia, chloroamines, nitrates, etc. You should try for your own well.
....Fire smoke detectors on ceiling over aquarium were affected too much by salt in air, constantly sounding alarm unless deactivated (which is counterproductive)..
....Fire pull boxes in public areas had to be covered with clear Plexiglas to prevent kids from pulling them.
....Some of the tanks were incorrectly painted with wrong type of epoxy paint, making them toxic to fish for a while.
....Areas behind display tanks could not be secured, so anyone could walk behind tanks and cause problems. Problem now corrected.
....Plumbing system not done correctly. When we shut off main FW valve for aquarium, it cut off water to rest of building and bathrooms.
…Air intake for blower system on side of building next to public marina, and putting boat fumes into tanks. either put air intake away from polluted air, or add air filters to air intake system.
Project development/funding
The following are some of the things I might consider if I were the one trying to build a new aquarium:
...Contact an aquarium organization which has recently gone through the planning/design/fundraising steps to get ideas of things you should consider.
...Involve/get support from local business/tourism/government groups and form a formal support organization with mission statement, goals, functions, procedures, plans, etc.
...Incorporate above alliance of people/businesses for this common goal (a new Aquarium).
...Have committees under above with certain charges to accomplish: planning/design, mission/goals, education/outreach/service, research, public relations/PR via media, fundraising/construction, outfitting new facility/equipment/supplies, management team, consulting/advice, etc, etc.
...After all studies done/or during....form a Development Corporation which will be charged with final designs, financing, and construction (+ oversee construction).
...Make sure the public and all interested parties are KEPT informed on the progress and how they can help. Keep all involved; you want the people, your government, and your lab to think of this as THEIR Aquarium so you get as much help as possible, and as much FREE help as possible.
...After all initial plans are done/OR NOW, OPEN up a Web Site of your Aquarium to gain support from your people (+ other interested parties) from all over the world. Also you want to link this web site to ALL your country web sites all over word.
…Search for appropriate funding foundations, agencies, etc. Under an internet search engine: key words would be: venture capital, international grant, foundation grant, construction grant, etc
...Some other fundraising ideas:
...Sell bricks for $30-$100 each for walk up to Aquarium; person gets his name on brick
...In Nature area outside have areas for meditation for all your major religions (get them to contribute, too)
...Have major businesses sponsor aquariums, rooms, labs; put plaque with their name on what they sponsored. Also involve wealthy people.
...Enlist school children to raise funds, and in so doing you will get THEIR parents involved,too.
...Use portions of Aquarium for research; get GRANTS to fund such research/ or construction of research space/tanks/etc.
...Have festivals on aquarium site during stages of development to raise more money.
...Also, you could have people "adopt" a tank, room, etc. for donation and have a plaque with their name on it. We do this with various tanks and displays in our facility.
Grant information
Before one can ask for a grant one should have a good package to present to a granting agency which will include, at the least, the following:
---A strong mission statement/aquarium theme.
---How that mission will be fulfilled.
---Audience you will serve.
---Educational/training programs of facility.
---Association with what university/agency.
---Several potential sites listing pro and con of each site, cost/site, and pictures of each site. ---Preliminary facility plans.
---Estimate of cost of facility…..broken down by costs per major grouping (pilings, concrete, walls, roof, plumbing, wiring, tanks, etc., etc.).
---Estimate of costs to outfit facility……Desks, chairs, files, pumps, filters, etc., etc.
---Estimate of costs to RUN facility….water, lights, electricity for pumps, bathroom supplies, ventilation/heating, etc., office supplies, computers, etc.
---Estimates of income via admissions, training courses, sale of extra specimens, gift shop, restaurant/snack bar, donations, space rental for weddings, birthdays, meetings, etc.
---Estimates of cost of all salaries.
---Staff position names of those you propose to get job done: Title, organizational chart of staff.
---Proposed number of undergraduate and graduate students to be trained at facility.
---Budgets for facility construction, facility outfitting, facility operation.
---A detailed list of agencies, schools, cities, etc. supporting project + their contributions, and how they will be associated with your facility in the future.
---Projected economic impact to area. Projected attendance by locals, tourists, school groups, university groups, etc.
Other items as deemed important for proposal. Approach potential funding sources to make sure your application will be suitable, and verify they might be interested in funding such a project.
Also, you can detail how computers and programs will assist/run various things in facility, from lights on/off to water flow to tanks to gift shop, and HOW these things will be innovative and futuristic so as to showcase the facility and the granting agency. Detail also the innovative projects in aquaculture, sewerage treatment, water purification, water re-use, plant cultivation, etc., etc., that will be done using computers/software to showcase the future.
After above is done then one can have a strong proposal for a granting agency.
Good luck to all!
To Drew Struzan art studio in North Hollywood, (real nice guy). I've see alot.
But never an Aquarium Museum from bottom up. So how much to build one in 1997 and what's included? Here's some food for thought.
This would cost (1997?) l2-l5 million...or $364 to $454 per square foot. This includes a 313 seat auditorium, lobby, gift shop, library, l2 offices, 6 bathrooms, photo room, print room, shop, kitchen, 7 classrooms/labs, storage rooms, and the original 27 display tanks. We have about a 7-acre site for this aquarium with a lot of parking but no native plant display area outside. Copies of the plans of the Aquarium in Biloxi are going to be delivered to you. Good clay was brought in and packed to raise the building above storm surges. Pilings were driven to support the weight of tanks and the major support columns of building, and piling caps of concrete were poured. All tank drain piping to sumps was laid in clay (making sure clay under pipe was well packed so pipe did not bend and crack), and the tanks were poured with concrete. All plumbing/wiring was verified correct and then the floor and sumps were poured. Then support columns for building were poured, and it was blocked in between support columns to make room divisions.
We have about 75 pilings under this building, 50 being under the aquarium area supporting the tanks. Pilings should go down to solid footing. Here they now drive/vibrate hollow steel pilings down to about any level they want, weld on more sections as they go, then send high pressure water down pipe to drive dirt out, and then fill the hollow pipe with concrete. This procedure is EXPENSIVE, but these type pilings are stronger than driven wood pilings and fewer would be needed.
On any Aquarium the first concern is location, location, location:
...Must be in a location of easy, safe access by the public (not like one American aquarium which is out of the way and one has to drive through high-crime areas).
...Must be built on good solid earth (to support the weight of much water). Best to build on rock. You want to avoid driving many expensive pilings.
...Have to decide whether you are going to use natural waters (like some aquariums) or mix your own saltwater (SW) (like our aquarium). If you use natural water it must be of high quality OR filtered variously prior to introduction to tanks. The support systems, etc. will differ depending on which way you decide to do it (natural vs. man-made water). You will need access to good freshwater also; either via well or city water (we use city water and then treat it to remove chlorine, ammonia, and chloroamines).
...You should have natural FW and SW marsh areas (or the plant areas you talked about) to receive waste waters from the tanks. You could design this into your plant displays outside.
...You should be close to those who make their living from the sea. Why? Because they will bring you specimens for your displays. Here I let my collectors in free and they become part of the operation.
...HEIGHT...Aquarium building should be on ground high enough to prevent damage from storm surges; and this height can also be used for good outflow of waste waters.
...STORMS...must design aquarium so that storms do not knock you out of business by not having power to run your tanks. If you are in a typhoon area, suggest you design aquarium like ours: Tanks are run by air power (undergravel tank systems); with a natural gas (buried pipes that are rarely damaged by storms) powered generator that kicks on to run air blowers when power goes off. Extra electric-powered sand, diatomaceous earth, etc., filters can be put on tanks to increase water clarity, increase biological filtration, decrease diseases, etc. Previous would be for man-made sea water. Different designs would be needed for flow-through (natural sea water) system. You will have to decide which way to go. But with a flow-thru system you will still need to have ways to run tanks, and various pumps and air systems when power goes off.
In building an aquarium you usually put in the large tanks first, then build the building around these tanks. Smaller tanks can be added later. I would have the building front designed to represent something that the public can easily recognize from their culture, e.g., a favorite fish, etc., etc.
Tank comments
...Tanks should have smooth contours (no sharp corners) so fish that cannot swim backwards do not get "trapped" in corners.
...Drains should be at LOWEST point of tank to remove all fish wastes.
...Can use concrete and acrylic for bigger tanks, fiberglass and shatterproof glass for smaller tanks.
...Acrylic or tempered glass tank windows must be protected by set-off tempered glass external protection. Why? Want to keep acrylic tanks from being scratched by public so viewing is obscured. Outside sheet of tempered glass protects any tempered glass tank windows when public bangs on them (to get fish moving, etc.) or tests diamond rings on windows (big problem here...girls wanting to verify their men REALLY gave them a diamond). You do not want the public directly beating on tank windows or scratching them. The extra tempered glass cover also helps lessen the noise of pumps, aeration, and running water from behind the display tanks.
…You can buy previously-made fiberglass tanks, cut out a wall section, install tempered glass or an acrylic panel over hole as a viewing port, and slide tank to viewing port. Tank size can be l000 gals or more.
…You can get fiberglass or acrylic tanks made to your specifications; FDA food grade fiberglass is less toxic than boat fiberglass.
We use all-glass aquaria up to the 210 gallon size. The cost for tank alone is $1-2 per gallon. These tanks are in a small tank display area, plus in isolated small tank displays in various parts of the building.
Fiberglass 210 gallon display tanks, with tempered glass front and back, cost about $3000 each. A mold is made of design wanted, then tanks are made off this mold; fiberglass tanks like these cost about $15 per gallon. We have l9 of these in a clover-leaf design around a central circular main tank.
We have 7 medium size tanks (l200-4000 gallons) that are in the corners of the alcoves formed by the l9 fiberglass tanks. These tanks are concrete with acrylic viewing windows and with tempered glass covers so acrylic tank window does not get scratched. I would estimate 1997 cost at $15-20 per gallon.
The circular main tank is made of concrete and has 14 acrylic viewing windows, holds 42,000 gallons, and would cost from $800,000 to $1 million.
Other tank costs: 500 gal circular acrylic tank, with stand, light hood...$l8,000
210 gal all-glass tank.......$250
30 gal all-glass tank .........$45
This aquarium originally had 27 display tanks. We did later construction and moved things around to add 21 more tanks. Some were small tanks (10-30 gallon) in a wall 3 tanks high. These tanks are used to quickly display animals of local or seasonal interest, fish with various diseases (lymphocystis; isopods; leeches; etc), dangerous marine organisms, those used in aquaculture, etc.
In addition to display tanks, you will need back up tanks behind the scenes for holding, treatment, quarantine, rearing, etc. We have about l00, varying in size from 10 to 1000 gallons. Smaller tanks are all-glass and cost $1-2 per gallon. Larger tanks are fiberglass (no windows) and cost about $2 per gallon. Filters, pumps, plumbing, air lines, light fixtures, etc., are extra costs.
If you are making your own salt water you will need mixing tanks behind the scenes. We have two (each about 9500 gallons), one for mixing up/aging/treating salt water; the other for holding fresh water and treating it for chlorine, ammonia, etc. These tanks are concrete, interconnected to each other and to two mixing/transfer pumps (5 hp...about $800-$1000 each) so we can mix, use either pump, and send water to any tank in building.
All display and back-up tanks are separate units; water does not flow from one tank to the next. So we can vary temperature and salinity per tank, plus isolate any disease outbreak. If you use flow through water, tank designs will be different.
AQUARIUM SUPPORT
Of prime importance in the aquarium area is the support system that will be built into the building: emergency power, air, water, electricity, alarms, drains for waste, lighting, graphic panels, etc.
Emergency power:
You will probably need an emergency generator for power outages. We have a natural gas powered generator ($10,000 - 20,000) which supplies power for a blower system (for air to tanks) + several key outlets for emergency lights + some of the electrical pumps. This generator is hooked up to main power panel so when power is cut off for 30 seconds the generator is started. In our situation, this is THE most important piece of equipment in the building; it will save your animals when power goes off. It will probably cost $1000+ to hook up to main power lines; + unknown amount to hook up to natural gas (cost of gas regulator + piping, etc).
There is an alarm system on the generator to warn us of low battery charge (that would prevent generator starting), etc.
Air
We use regenerative rotary blowers for air supply to tanks. Have 3 blowers, use 1 each week; rotation extends life of blower. Cost of $7000 - 10,000 each. Will need blowers of 5-8 psi to get air to bottom of 8-9 foot tank. Air lines are PVC pipe, larger (6") at blower (to decrease heat of air friction) and decreasing in diameter as get to smaller tanks (1"). In large pipe past manifold where 3 blowers join there is a sensor which will detect when the air is not working; it is tied into an alarm phone service to notify aquarium staff when air is off.
PVC pipe plus labor to hook up for air lines will be in the thousands of dollars. Have shut-off valves at various points in lines so can shut off air to 1 or more tanks but rest will still have air. Also have shut off valves to control air to each tank.
Air intake (here) is through a vented hole in machine room wall on second floor; this is not the best idea. Air system should draw non-polluted air (ours faces a public marina and boat fumes are drawn into tanks = bad). You might want to put an air filtering (activated carbon) unit prior to blower intake.
Alarms
Fire, smoke, emergency first aid, police, generator, and air off alarm systems. Do not install smoke detectors on ceiling over tanks, salt air corrodes detectors and makes them go off all the time. We also have an alarm at front admissions desk that can be activated if there is trouble (robbery, violent patron, injury to patron, etc.).
Cover any pull alarms in public areas so people won't set them off as pranks (mostly done by children).
Electricity
As previously said, need emergency power generator.
You want to wire in enough electrical panels and enough outlets to handle expansion. You'll probably need 5000-l0,000 AMP service, 3-phase. All wiring should be in PVC conduits, boxes, switches, etc., to ****** salt corrosion. Outlets around tanks should be on ground-fault interrupters for safety. Outlets should be above tanks to prevent water getting into boxes. Keep lighting on separate circuits from outlets for electrical support equipment (pumps, filters…because if you put lighting on automatic timers at the breaker panel you do not want to turn anything else off). Breakers in panels should be minimum of 20 AMPS for each circuit; I prefer 30 AMPS per circuit so you can put two sand filters on the same circuit.
Our tanks from 210 gallons on up have 3 outlets above each tank, the 2 outside are for tank lights and are connected to a timer that can be set for automatic light on-off control. The middle outlet (a separate circuit) is live 24 hours per day, and is used to run pumps/filters or other things that have to run all the time (UV sterilizers, etc).
We have 4 main panels that run all items for aquarium:
....shop, kitchen, garbage disposal, fridge, freezer, stove, dishwasher, microwave (36 breakers)
....graphic lights (on tanks), aquarium ceiling lights (which can be dimmed), outlets on walls opposite tanks, misc. (36 breakers)
....Timer for lights, tank lights, outlets for pumps/filters, big freezer, large pump/filters, (36 breakers)
....blowers, mix-pumps, monorail hoists (2), water heaters, etc.
We are constantly adding more outlets as we get more money for pumps, filters, new tanks, etc.
Electricity for whole building will run into hundreds of thousands...depending on what you do.
Plumbing
Use PVC, acrylic, or stainless steel pipes, no copper, zinc, or lead in pipes (toxic). Install cut-off valves at places so you can isolate various areas from water flow so plumbing can be worked on, repaired, expanded, etc. Do not want system designed so shutting off water at one place will affect water supply to other critical areas of building (bathrooms, water heaters, boiler, kitchen, aquarium, outside faucets, etc.).
Flow-through SW supply
If this is way you go, need 2 SEPARATE pump/ intake systems. Run one for 1-2 weeks, then run other, so there is no big build-up of fouling organisms inside pipes to clog them. The separate systems should run UP to a filtration system which filters out fouling organisms prior to going to display tanks. Need way to back-flush pipes after organisms set (attach) inside pipes so dead stuff is flushed out downhill ( and not to display tanks)...OR valve just prior to filters to dump fouled water prior to going to filters/tanks.
If you use a flow-through system, the intake should not be near surface (to avoid intake of floating oils, pollution, FW flows) and not near bottom (to avoid intake of sediments and toxins that concentrate in sediments).
Water
See previous comments on water supply and mixing tanks.
Water pipes should be PVC as much as possible to avoid heavy metal toxicity. Should have FW + SW going to each tank. Install several shut-off valves so can isolate and work on various parts of the water system. Cost of water system will be in thousands.
May add filters to incoming water (added cost) to clarify and detoxify water.
Would be good to have your own private FW, and maybe even SW, well.
Drains
The whole back area where we work on the tanks, our holding tank areas, etc., are concrete floors sloped to 3 sumps on one side and 2 sumps on the other side. All excess/waste water goes to floor sumps/drains and then goes into the local Bay about 200 yards away. The drains for all our medium and large tanks go directly into these sumps. The butterfly valves on the tank drains are in these sumps; valves and drain pipes are 6-8" PVC. These valves are expensive, $500-1200 each. The sumps are 4-8 feet deep with a metal grate slotted cover on top. Slotted cover to let floor water run into sump. Water drained from our small tanks is drained to the floor, and then runs to the sumps. When you do your aquarium, need to make these sumps WIDER to have easier human body access to open valves for water changes, work on valves, etc. Our sumps are only about 30" square at top; need to be at least 36", maybe even larger for easier access.
The large tank and both mix-tanks have overflow pipes which also drain to these sumps. Cut PVC overflow pipe at highest level you want water to be in tanks, and screen overflows to prevent animals, etc from going down overflow pipes.
All 5 sumps drain to a manhole outside building with an about l0-12" PVC pipe in the bottom, which (in our case) runs about 200 yards to dump into our local BAY. Our waste waters are not treated in any way; this could be better, as medications, chemicals, etc., used in our operation also go down the drain. Your idea of using this water in an artificial marsh/wetland area outside the building for an added attraction would be excellent. You could make a raised walk nature trail in this area.
Lighting
- All small tanks (l0-100 gals) just have fluorescent light fixtures laying on top (or just above) of tank, l5-25 watt. Usually cool-white, but also use gro-lux, design50, actinic, Vita lites, etc. Usually have less problem with algae with just cool-white. These fixtures run $l0 to over $100 each, bulb extra ($8-30). Some tanks have glass lids which lights rest upon.
- 2l0 gal tanks: Original set-up was two outdoor flood light fixtures (that swivel), one above each end of tank. Can direct light; used l50 w flood light bulbs, clear, blue, green, red, yellow. Different colors used (trial and error) to see which would be best for LESS algal growth. Found BLUE in our case to work best. Lights are about 2 feet above the water in tank.
- Medium-sized tanks: Tanks have combinations of flood lights (l50 w) and cool-white (usually). Each tank with 1-2, 2-unit fluorescent fixtures above water (2-3 feet) attached to angle iron grid-work that juts out over tank. This grid must be strong enough to support weight of lights PLUS someone leaning out to change bulbs. Some tanks with added l50 w flood lights. We changed lighting so that we got less algae to grow and thus had less work cleaning the viewing windows.
- Large tank: It has a large grid system about 8 feet above water that is both suspended from ceiling with rods and supported by resting on safety railing around walk around top of main tank. This tank has 4, 250w metal halide lights, about 50, 150w flood lights, and several fluorescent lights. It's a mixture that NO lighting engineer has inspected or given approval to. It works.
- Night light: All medium/large tanks have small fluorescent lights that are on all the time. This is so when lights go out there is a little light left which simulates moonlight for the fish, and does not give a sudden change from lighting to darkness (which can frighten some fish). Lights on 210, medium, and large tanks are all connected to timer that turns lights on at 7:30 am and off at about 5 pm. So have about 9.5 hrs of light per day.
- Misc. display lights: For reptiles in vivarium, and various snake enclosures, etc. we have various lights with a high CRI (color rendering index) to simulate natural sunlight so animals get some vitamin D. Use lights of CRI of 95 or higher (l00 = sunlight).
Our systems work...but I'm sure a lighting engineer could improve them.
For working lights in area behind aquarium we have 4 foot fluorescent fixtures plus 8 large 250 w metal halide fixtures on ceiling.
In times of power failure we have battery-powered lights over each tank that automatically come on when power goes off. These give enough light so patrons can still see into tanks.
In the viewing area, light is primarily supplied via tank lights. The walls, etc are black so that the tanks stand out. We have lights in the ceiling on dimmer switches to control amount of extra light we want. When handicapped people from local hospitals come in we can turn up lights so they can see better to navigate while viewing tanks.
- Rest of Building: Lobby = metal halide lights. Offices, library, halls, other areas = 4 foot fluorescent fixtures, cool white. Auditorium = flood light fixtures on dimmer switch. Outside = flood or mercury vapor lights.
GRAPHIC PANELS
Each tank should have at least one graphic panel with a color picture and verbiage about each thing in tank. Most of our panels are just below the tanks, not flat against wall but at about a 45 degree angle. Each panel has 1 or more 4' fluorescent light fixtures in back which shine through graphics. Graphics sandwiched between opaque Plexiglas behind and clear plexi in front.
These panels match walls = plywood covered with black Formica. with light fixture. They can be made for about $100-200 each. For larger tanks we have 3-8 such panels. For vivarium and small tank display, the panels are over the tanks.
For quick graphics you can scan pictures onto white paper, and cut to fit panel. These work ok for temporary graphics. Permanent graphics are cibachrome prints that cost about $50-75 each.
MIX-PUMPS/other pumps:
Pumps and filters should have fiberglass housings to combat salt water corrosion. We have two mix-pumps for two mix tanks, with plumbing/valves so we can use either pump on either tank to send water to display tanks, or to other mix tank. These mix-pumps run all the time to add oxygen to water and to thoroughly mix salt and to be available to immediately pump water out of mix tanks to display tanks. Lines are 4" PVC going down to l" for 210 tanks. You need two pipe systems if want to keep FW and SW separate. Otherwise have to drain pipes to get type water (FW OR SW) you want....this is a bother and can lead to mistakes. I installed a submersible pump in FW mix tank and pump water via hose to where it is needed, and use PVC pipes for SW only.
Mix tanks are concrete, bottom sloped to drain, overflow pipe going to sumps, city water plumbed to top of tanks. Square manhole in top middle with wooden cover to: prevent people falling into, keep trash out of water, keep light out of tanks (decrease algal growth). Mix pumps lower than tank bottom...pump from bottom. Pumps in a sump with a DRAIN to outside so if pipes leak sump not filled and ruin pump motors. These mix pumps run about $800-1000 each. Breaker panels nearby so can be thrown quickly in emergencies.
Water aerated by pumps to blow off chlorine from city water; AmQuel added to neutralize ammonia in water. (can also use zeolites for ammonia removal in FW...prior to adding salt). Can also put charcoal filter in line prior to mix tank.
Costs: Big sand filters and pumps = $l400 each, DE filters and pumps = $700 each.
Exhibits in aquarium viewing area (in addition to graphics):
...Light panel depicting water cycle
...About 25 large mounted fish
...Stuffed, mounted amelanistic sea turtle
...Record sizes of local SW fish
...Record sizes of local FW fish
...Graphic of river systems of Mississippi
...Each alcove has a 3-6' picture of organisms found in the habitat type of the alcove (alcove= 5 210 gallon tanks + 1-2 medium tanks).
...Posters informing public about tagged fish
...Info concerning life-span of different types of litter (with examples of the litter)
...Info on hazards of 6-pack rings; and plastic recycling programs
...Cartoons depicting the bad things about ocean litter
...Picture of me holding newly hatched loggerhead sea turtle
...Plaques mounted above tanks that have been adopted by the public (they donate money to run tank for a year at a time)
...Plastic floral displays above/around tanks depicting seasons
...Flowers/leaves/flags/etc. (changing with season)
...Needlework showing some of our native plants
Living exhibits in aquarium: We are mandated to display organisms native to Mississippi and the adjacent Gulf of Mexico. We also try to emphasize organisms used in aquaculture (FW & SW) in our state, various diseased fish to inform public; various unusual things; fishes of sport fish interest; fishes used in toxicity testing of our local streams; organisms researched by our staff with verbiage explaining the research; commercially important invertebrates (crabs, shrimp, oysters, etc); things of seasonal interest; organisms constricted by plastic litter; other things of interest.
Aquascaping the tanks: We add local plants, logs, shells, bottles, nets, etc. to decorate tanks.
Vivarium: waterproof box with double paned viewing window. expandable foam (polyurethane) contoured to form banks of stream, covered with fiberglass, last layer of gel mixed with sand so it looks like a sand beach; water flows between bank and window so public can look through window to see animals underwater. Back wall is a mural showing progression from wetland to Cyprus swamp. One corner has Cyprus knees + hanging Spanish moss...to match Cyprus in mural. Sand put into stream so turtles can bury up.
Lighting with high CRI for turtles.
FW 210's: pea gravel as substrate; logs; native FW plants. Back glass painted a sandy color. One tank set up as a small vivarium; this is where we put baby alligators and baby turtles. Stream (water area) against tank window at front. Lexan top on all 210's to decrease evaporation, decrease spray, prevent animals from jumping out, prevent foreign objects/dust from entering tanks, etc. Each lexan cover costs about $75.
Aquascaping: Medium/large tanks. We use fake rocks made out of fiberglass; PVC pipe burned with a blowtorch to make it look like a log or piling; real rocks; fiberglass boats/boat parts; trawl boards with iron foot removed and all bolts replaced with stainless steel bolts; glass floats; fake anchors made out of PVC pipe; tufa rock mortared together to look like a coral reef; logs, some of which are hollowed out and filled with concrete so they sink; dead coral; deal sea fans; shells; concrete caves; live plants; bottles, other debris found on our local beaches, etc.
We also use plastic grass/plants in various tanks; this is ripped up and ingested by sea turtles and torn up by triggerfish.
COLOR of tank walls: each alcove has tanks painted inside with a different color epoxy-type non-toxic paint. FW= sandy color; offshore tanks = blue, etc.
LOBBY EXHIBITS: (live potted plants all around)
...Discovery island...box with specimens inside covered chambers, outside has various Questions, open lid to find the specimen answer.
...sea shells....about 3-4 thousand labeled and in glass cases
...tank with live gopher tortoise
...l2 tanks with non-poisonous snakes
...NOAA mission verbiage display
...sand castings of various sea life
...murals showing local aquatic scenes
...wall mural showing map of region
...tank with live lungfish
...2 touch tanks that public can pick up animals from
...mural of an oyster reef and related animals living there
...local art depicting marine life or scenes (30)
...stained glass hanging from ceiling depicting local animals (30)
...two video monitors playing programs about marine life
...pictures of some of our program activities
...bathythermograph in case; verbiage explaining its operation
...trawl with TED (turtle excluder device) and fake turtle hanging from ceiling
...Biloxi pulling skiff
...portable display showing activities of the Institute
...bulletin board about sleep-over programs
...tank with American Lobster
...tanks with rocky shore animals
...small model aquaculture system for crayfish
...partial sei whale skull/jaws
...tables for small kids with animal puzzles
...preserved specimens in cases on wall with Plexiglas front (about l25 bottles)
...examples of our fish museum collections
...case with local fossils
...shrimp life cycle on wall
...shrimp landings per year on wall
...State symbols on wall
...misc. tagging posters
...other minor things ...shadow boxes (5) with dried animals coated with epoxy
Exhibits going up ramp to auditorium:
...pictures of local birds on wall
...case with local artifacts
...skulls, skeletons
...biodiversity posters from Sea Grant (l2)
...simulated osprey nest
...pictures of local mushrooms
...case with fossil shake teeth
...beachcombing display with things found on local beaches
...1 live snake tank
...display on cobia and tagging program; mounted cobia
...misc. bird houses on poles
...mural of local island
Above, plus what previously sent, are our main exhibits. In halls, library...various posters on sea life, whales, sea turtles, snakes, stuffed animals, etc.
AUDITORIUM: videos on sea life, etc. run continuously. Each clip is about l5 minutes with tape lasting about 2 hrs; automatic rewind on tape so a human worker is not needed in the auditorium all day, just to start and stop the video. Our new video projector cost $14,000. Auditorium also has posters, murals on walls.
Space Utilization
Space utilization in facility: total of 33,000 square feet
...Aquarium display area....4335
...Behind scenes of Aquarium (work area)....3500
TOTAL Aquarium....7835 ( 24 % of building)
...Auditorium....3658 (11%)
...Lobby/gift....3603 (11%)
...Library....702 (2%)
...6 classrooms/labs....4839 (15%)
...gift shop....540
Remaining 37% of building is included in bathrooms, halls, offices, print room, photo room, janitor's closets, storage, stairwells, elevator, machine room, electrical power room, shop, kitchen, video room, etc.
If I were to redesign this building I would allow more space for gift shop, classrooms, back-up tanks behind scenes, library, storage, and lobby (so could get in more displays). For your Aquarium I would also include space for a restaurant/snack area for the patrons, plus an outside area with picnic tables in a natural display-type setting.
Our space could be better utilized by having educators stationed in classrooms (that would also be their office), thus freeing up office space they now utilize. Could have a small area in each classroom sectioned off so it could be secured. Classroom would then serve as office, lab, and a classroom. I would also allow more fridge/freezer storage space. Need freezer space to store at least 1000 lbs. of frozen fish/squid/shrimp for aquarium food. My new 3-door upright freezer that can hold about 1500 lbs. cost $4800.
Facility problems you should avoid
Here I will mention some of the problems with our facility (some have been corrected):
....Medium and large tanks were designed with flat bottoms (for ease of pouring concrete?) and organics don't drain well when drain valve opened.
....Fiberglass screen on filter grid not protected by another grid to prevent ripping by sea turtles and triggerfish. (This was corrected when we renovated the large tank in 1997.)
....Sumps too small and hard to get into to manually open/close drain valves.
....Flood light fixtures made of aluminum corrode and short out frequently.
....Medium tanks with no overflow pipes. Forgetful workers leave water on and flood the viewing area.
....Not enough holding, back-up, or treatment tanks, or floor space for tanks.
....Not enough storage area; need .more shelving and storage bins.
....Too small breakers in electrical panels. Increase amps per breaker so can handle new pumps installed.
....Not enough wall outlets (for pumps, filters, etc.).
....Exposed air, water, and electric lines on top of Aquarium viewing area present trip hazard and waste space. People walking on top have busted pipes, causing water to flood viewing area below. Space on top could be utilized for storage or offices if done correctly (but would still need access to all piping...for repair, extending lines, etc.)
....Drain for main tank was outside building; anyone could have opened manhole and drained our main tank (now corrected).
....Butterfly valves allow debris to get trapped when closing (valve not totally shut) causing leaks. Valves over last l4 years = harder to open and close. Get good quality valves.
....In some of the tanks fish (that swim upstream) jump down airlift standpipes, get under filter, die, and can cause loss of animals in tank. Put screens on ends of airlifts.
....210's were designed wrong: corners...where fish that cannot back up try to swim forward into corner....messes up their snouts, exhausts fish. Have rounded corners.
Drain in 210 tanks was not put at lowest point of tank, so organics do not all drain out...so cannot get tanks cleaned properly.
....No support across fiberglass tank tops...water caused tanks to bow outwards, causing sealant around windows to pull away in 210 gal display tanks, causing leaks.
....Many of our lights are too high up for us to change bulbs ourselves, requiring lifts and added expense to change a few bulbs.
....Built-up flat roof PVC liner easily blown off in hurricanes, leading to water damage everywhere. Also rocks on roof holding down liner get blown around in storms, damaging cars, and breaking out our windows.
....Built-up flat roof has bad leak problems that we still cannot seem to fix.
....Rugs throughout building are too easily stained by spilled drinks.
....Although building was put on pilings, sidewalks and parking areas were not....areas around building settled, as much as 4", putting strain on pipes under sidewalks and busting them. Big pain!!!
....Mix tank drains were directed to side of hill building sat on; so when we drained SW tank we killed some of our grass. Need to direct this water to main sump, to wetland area, or someplace other than onto grass.
....Our city water is very bad for aquatic organisms, being full of debris (brown), chlorine, ammonia, chloroamines, nitrates, etc. You should try for your own well.
....Fire smoke detectors on ceiling over aquarium were affected too much by salt in air, constantly sounding alarm unless deactivated (which is counterproductive)..
....Fire pull boxes in public areas had to be covered with clear Plexiglas to prevent kids from pulling them.
....Some of the tanks were incorrectly painted with wrong type of epoxy paint, making them toxic to fish for a while.
....Areas behind display tanks could not be secured, so anyone could walk behind tanks and cause problems. Problem now corrected.
....Plumbing system not done correctly. When we shut off main FW valve for aquarium, it cut off water to rest of building and bathrooms.
…Air intake for blower system on side of building next to public marina, and putting boat fumes into tanks. either put air intake away from polluted air, or add air filters to air intake system.
Project development/funding
The following are some of the things I might consider if I were the one trying to build a new aquarium:
...Contact an aquarium organization which has recently gone through the planning/design/fundraising steps to get ideas of things you should consider.
...Involve/get support from local business/tourism/government groups and form a formal support organization with mission statement, goals, functions, procedures, plans, etc.
...Incorporate above alliance of people/businesses for this common goal (a new Aquarium).
...Have committees under above with certain charges to accomplish: planning/design, mission/goals, education/outreach/service, research, public relations/PR via media, fundraising/construction, outfitting new facility/equipment/supplies, management team, consulting/advice, etc, etc.
...After all studies done/or during....form a Development Corporation which will be charged with final designs, financing, and construction (+ oversee construction).
...Make sure the public and all interested parties are KEPT informed on the progress and how they can help. Keep all involved; you want the people, your government, and your lab to think of this as THEIR Aquarium so you get as much help as possible, and as much FREE help as possible.
...After all initial plans are done/OR NOW, OPEN up a Web Site of your Aquarium to gain support from your people (+ other interested parties) from all over the world. Also you want to link this web site to ALL your country web sites all over word.
…Search for appropriate funding foundations, agencies, etc. Under an internet search engine: key words would be: venture capital, international grant, foundation grant, construction grant, etc
...Some other fundraising ideas:
...Sell bricks for $30-$100 each for walk up to Aquarium; person gets his name on brick
...In Nature area outside have areas for meditation for all your major religions (get them to contribute, too)
...Have major businesses sponsor aquariums, rooms, labs; put plaque with their name on what they sponsored. Also involve wealthy people.
...Enlist school children to raise funds, and in so doing you will get THEIR parents involved,too.
...Use portions of Aquarium for research; get GRANTS to fund such research/ or construction of research space/tanks/etc.
...Have festivals on aquarium site during stages of development to raise more money.
...Also, you could have people "adopt" a tank, room, etc. for donation and have a plaque with their name on it. We do this with various tanks and displays in our facility.
Grant information
Before one can ask for a grant one should have a good package to present to a granting agency which will include, at the least, the following:
---A strong mission statement/aquarium theme.
---How that mission will be fulfilled.
---Audience you will serve.
---Educational/training programs of facility.
---Association with what university/agency.
---Several potential sites listing pro and con of each site, cost/site, and pictures of each site. ---Preliminary facility plans.
---Estimate of cost of facility…..broken down by costs per major grouping (pilings, concrete, walls, roof, plumbing, wiring, tanks, etc., etc.).
---Estimate of costs to outfit facility……Desks, chairs, files, pumps, filters, etc., etc.
---Estimate of costs to RUN facility….water, lights, electricity for pumps, bathroom supplies, ventilation/heating, etc., office supplies, computers, etc.
---Estimates of income via admissions, training courses, sale of extra specimens, gift shop, restaurant/snack bar, donations, space rental for weddings, birthdays, meetings, etc.
---Estimates of cost of all salaries.
---Staff position names of those you propose to get job done: Title, organizational chart of staff.
---Proposed number of undergraduate and graduate students to be trained at facility.
---Budgets for facility construction, facility outfitting, facility operation.
---A detailed list of agencies, schools, cities, etc. supporting project + their contributions, and how they will be associated with your facility in the future.
---Projected economic impact to area. Projected attendance by locals, tourists, school groups, university groups, etc.
Other items as deemed important for proposal. Approach potential funding sources to make sure your application will be suitable, and verify they might be interested in funding such a project.
Also, you can detail how computers and programs will assist/run various things in facility, from lights on/off to water flow to tanks to gift shop, and HOW these things will be innovative and futuristic so as to showcase the facility and the granting agency. Detail also the innovative projects in aquaculture, sewerage treatment, water purification, water re-use, plant cultivation, etc., etc., that will be done using computers/software to showcase the future.
After above is done then one can have a strong proposal for a granting agency.
Good luck to all!
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