7 month old system extremely cloudy water and bad brown algae

dcreasy9880

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So my tank is 7 months old and I’ve always had pretty crystal clear water especially after a water change. I decided to do 10 gallon water change and really clean the glass especially back glass due to algae build up my msg cleaner could not get to cause of hob equipment, with the new light and stand placement I had to move my filters around. I did a heavy sand bed vaccine cause I’ve seen videos and other post that it’s good to turn over sand and vacuume it on water changes to get clean looking sand. I noticed last week after adding a new light I think I had set to bright I was getting major brown Dino looking algae all over the glass and sand bed, turned the lights down got more snails and the brown algae sand bed has slowly gotten better. I noticed shortly after my water was starting to get s cloudy haze to it, well I baught handful of hermit crabs and cerith snails and zombie snails to help clean up algae I can’t get to. And my lfs told me I may have caused a small new cycle due to cleaning the sand bed he recommend In a reef tank you shouldn’t ever touch your sand bed to let the cuc take care of it! So I did s water change only 5 gallons this time, I used to battle high nitrates they stayed constant at 20ppm using api reef test kit and phosphate has always read 0.25ppm. After my big 10 gallon water change I was able to get my nitrates lower looked like it was roughly 10ppm on the test of coarse phosphates stayed same.. well I’ve kept my lights dimmed down to 45% all blues and in the evenings after lights have been on I can see the Dino’s starting to come back but by morning they are minor due to no lights over night. But I have noticed especially this morning when I got home from work my water looking through the tank from side glass to side glass is very hazy/milky looking once lights are on it don’t look as bad till you look glass to glass. And I got a nitrate and phosphate hanna testers in the mail yesterday did a test this morn nitrate is 5.6ppm and phosphate is 0.10ppm. I feel being 7 months old my tank should be fully cycled, I only have 2 clowns a bi color blenny cleaner shrimp sand sifting star, 6 zombie snails, 5 cerith snails, 4 trochus snails and about 6-7 hermit crabs as live stock and a rianbow bta, gsp, pulsing Xenia frag and a Duncan frag for corals. I never had a “ugly stage” that looked as bad as all the videos of one on YouTube before I had Dino algae growth on sand bed and glass a foot few times I always just cleaned during weekly maintenance and ofcoarse white rocks that turned brown and now turning light green with some purple starting to show through.. Can you get the ugly stage at 7 months in!? Are my nitrates and phosphates at a good number!? Is there anything I can or should be doing different to help this!? Should I clean sand bed every week or leave alone!? Did I accidentally crash my cycle and start a new one!? I know it’s a lot of questions but please any help is greatly appreciated. Side note in my hob filter I run seachem matrix for bio media “Wich come out of another 6 month old fish only tank i had along with half the rock before I ever set this tank up” Filter floss, carbon pad and little bag of gfo to help battle my previous high nitrates.

DBF0979B-7C77-4E07-AA5C-6326ED3D026F.jpeg 1D433B34-5377-40C3-A898-B11518E618B1.jpeg 554A65E9-6700-4D0B-BEAC-6A34D42A280B.jpeg 5C695672-C1E0-4F67-937E-9F6D6A1A8845.jpeg F211E200-F749-43A4-B018-71052870D798.jpeg
 

Big G

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Your tank is maturing. The rocks "turning bright green" is a normal phase of growth and adjustment. Very common for a tank to take 12+ months or more to settle in.

Gently stirring the sand with powerhead turned "up" a bit helps your filter to work for you.

A siphon hose with a "soft" bristle toothbrush attached to a rigid piece of tubing (PEK tubing like what's used in homes for water lines) allows you to gently scrub the rocks and pull out debris at the same time - work slowly, allowing the siphon to work for you.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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don't let matted invaders exist, simply stick a siphon hose in there and uptake all invasions that can be pulled up. you get to stop doing that when you get lucky on suppression of the growth, but don't let anything take over here. guide the new reef as needed. physically, not chemically through the water.

you set water parameters to what grows coral, not to what starves an invader, that bleaches coral eventually.
 

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Agree with above that seems nothing out of line, just be patient and maintain good husbandry.

I will just point out that your API phosphate test is useless. We try to keep our phosphate lower than .1, the API test goes from 0 to .25. You need a good test kit that can measure phosphate accurately, such as a hanna tester for example. You have to keep the phosphate in line or else you are feeding the algae.
 

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Agree with above that seems nothing out of line, just be patient and maintain good husbandry.

I will just point out that your API phosphate test is useless. We try to keep our phosphate lower than .1, the API test goes from 0 to .25. You need a good test kit that can measure phosphate accurately, such as a hanna tester for example. You have to keep the phosphate in line or else you are feeding the algae.
He mentioned he had a hanna and it was 0.1
 

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So my tank is 7 months old and I’ve always had pretty crystal clear water especially after a water change. I decided to do 10 gallon water change and really clean the glass especially back glass due to algae build up my msg cleaner could not get to cause of hob equipment, with the new light and stand placement I had to move my filters around. I did a heavy sand bed vaccine cause I’ve seen videos and other post that it’s good to turn over sand and vacuume it on water changes to get clean looking sand. I noticed last week after adding a new light I think I had set to bright I was getting major brown Dino looking algae all over the glass and sand bed, turned the lights down got more snails and the brown algae sand bed has slowly gotten better. I noticed shortly after my water was starting to get s cloudy haze to it, well I baught handful of hermit crabs and cerith snails and zombie snails to help clean up algae I can’t get to. And my lfs told me I may have caused a small new cycle due to cleaning the sand bed he recommend In a reef tank you shouldn’t ever touch your sand bed to let the cuc take care of it! So I did s water change only 5 gallons this time, I used to battle high nitrates they stayed constant at 20ppm using api reef test kit and phosphate has always read 0.25ppm. After my big 10 gallon water change I was able to get my nitrates lower looked like it was roughly 10ppm on the test of coarse phosphates stayed same.. well I’ve kept my lights dimmed down to 45% all blues and in the evenings after lights have been on I can see the Dino’s starting to come back but by morning they are minor due to no lights over night. But I have noticed especially this morning when I got home from work my water looking through the tank from side glass to side glass is very hazy/milky looking once lights are on it don’t look as bad till you look glass to glass. And I got a nitrate and phosphate hanna testers in the mail yesterday did a test this morn nitrate is 5.6ppm and phosphate is 0.10ppm. I feel being 7 months old my tank should be fully cycled, I only have 2 clowns a bi color blenny cleaner shrimp sand sifting star, 6 zombie snails, 5 cerith snails, 4 trochus snails and about 6-7 hermit crabs as live stock and a rianbow bta, gsp, pulsing Xenia frag and a Duncan frag for corals. I never had a “ugly stage” that looked as bad as all the videos of one on YouTube before I had Dino algae growth on sand bed and glass a foot few times I always just cleaned during weekly maintenance and ofcoarse white rocks that turned brown and now turning light green with some purple starting to show through.. Can you get the ugly stage at 7 months in!? Are my nitrates and phosphates at a good number!? Is there anything I can or should be doing different to help this!? Should I clean sand bed every week or leave alone!? Did I accidentally crash my cycle and start a new one!? I know it’s a lot of questions but please any help is greatly appreciated. Side note in my hob filter I run seachem matrix for bio media “Wich come out of another 6 month old fish only tank i had along with half the rock before I ever set this tank up” Filter floss, carbon pad and little bag of gfo to help battle my previous high nitrates.

DBF0979B-7C77-4E07-AA5C-6326ED3D026F.jpeg 1D433B34-5377-40C3-A898-B11518E618B1.jpeg 554A65E9-6700-4D0B-BEAC-6A34D42A280B.jpeg 5C695672-C1E0-4F67-937E-9F6D6A1A8845.jpeg F211E200-F749-43A4-B018-71052870D798.jpeg
Could be diatoms . What source water do you use ? Maybe silicate is getting in through topoffs and when you do the water change you are adding more ? Just thinking out loud . Gfo is for phosphate removal not no3
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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you did not crash any cycle, reef cycles cannot be undone in wet tanks. they have to dry, be boiled, or frozen, or treated with extended antibiotics.



drain your tank down 25% to reveal bare glass, you can put the water back in after you are done

take a white paper towel and wipe the inside of the glass firmly while filming it on a cell phone, I bet it comes out brown or red, hence the appearance of hazy water

take some of the drawn off top water and put into a clear drinking glass against a white background in white light, let's see if it's dirty
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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gfo doesn't help with nitrates, quit using gfo in that tank it doesn't need it.
 
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dcreasy9880

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Agree with above that seems nothing out of line, just be patient and maintain good husbandry.

I will just point out that your API phosphate test is useless. We try to keep our phosphate lower than .1, the API test goes from 0 to .25. You need a good test kit that can measure phosphate accurately, such as a hanna tester for example. You have to keep the phosphate in line or else you are feeding the algae.
Yeah I just received the Hanna nitrate and phosphate tester yesterday evening and used it this morn my nitrate was 5.6ppm and my phosphate 0.10ppm I trust and really like the Hanna tester over api’s.
 
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dcreasy9880

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Could be diatoms . What source water do you use ? Maybe silicate is getting in through topoffs and when you do the water change you are adding more ? Just thinking out loud . Gfo is for phosphate removal not no3
So I originally started out buying salt snd RODI water from my lfs, I decided to start mixing my own salt not long ago but I baught the same salt brand my lfs recommends and uses Wich is fritz rpm blue box, and enjoy this salt mix it seems to have great parameters, but I do still buy RODI water from my lfs for top offs and to mix for my water changes, I buy about 20-25 gallons at a time and store them in the jugs and just use them as needed I have noticed though some oh my jugs look like they have a brown slime on the inside of them from water being stored in them
 
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dcreasy9880

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Just now getting a chance to reply to Everyone but so since my phosphate reads 0.10 ppm should I stop running gfo in my filter? And also would it benifit me to just do away with the gfo and carbon pad and just start running chemi pure blue? Along with my nitrate and phosphate tester, I got the hanna salon fly and temperature tester and I was so excited to use it, calibrated this morn did everything I’m suppsoed to and my salt water only read 1.022… I calibrated my refractometer just to make sure I had it dial in right tested water again with it and it read 1.025 I read that apparently a lot of ppl have trouble with the Hanna salinity tester.. Wich is a bummer I’m debating on just sending it back and get my money bakc and keep using my refractometer
 

vetteguy53081

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So my tank is 7 months old and I’ve always had pretty crystal clear water especially after a water change. I decided to do 10 gallon water change and really clean the glass especially back glass due to algae build up my msg cleaner could not get to cause of hob equipment, with the new light and stand placement I had to move my filters around. I did a heavy sand bed vaccine cause I’ve seen videos and other post that it’s good to turn over sand and vacuume it on water changes to get clean looking sand. I noticed last week after adding a new light I think I had set to bright I was getting major brown Dino looking algae all over the glass and sand bed, turned the lights down got more snails and the brown algae sand bed has slowly gotten better. I noticed shortly after my water was starting to get s cloudy haze to it, well I baught handful of hermit crabs and cerith snails and zombie snails to help clean up algae I can’t get to. And my lfs told me I may have caused a small new cycle due to cleaning the sand bed he recommend In a reef tank you shouldn’t ever touch your sand bed to let the cuc take care of it! So I did s water change only 5 gallons this time, I used to battle high nitrates they stayed constant at 20ppm using api reef test kit and phosphate has always read 0.25ppm. After my big 10 gallon water change I was able to get my nitrates lower looked like it was roughly 10ppm on the test of coarse phosphates stayed same.. well I’ve kept my lights dimmed down to 45% all blues and in the evenings after lights have been on I can see the Dino’s starting to come back but by morning they are minor due to no lights over night. But I have noticed especially this morning when I got home from work my water looking through the tank from side glass to side glass is very hazy/milky looking once lights are on it don’t look as bad till you look glass to glass. And I got a nitrate and phosphate hanna testers in the mail yesterday did a test this morn nitrate is 5.6ppm and phosphate is 0.10ppm. I feel being 7 months old my tank should be fully cycled, I only have 2 clowns a bi color blenny cleaner shrimp sand sifting star, 6 zombie snails, 5 cerith snails, 4 trochus snails and about 6-7 hermit crabs as live stock and a rianbow bta, gsp, pulsing Xenia frag and a Duncan frag for corals. I never had a “ugly stage” that looked as bad as all the videos of one on YouTube before I had Dino algae growth on sand bed and glass a foot few times I always just cleaned during weekly maintenance and ofcoarse white rocks that turned brown and now turning light green with some purple starting to show through.. Can you get the ugly stage at 7 months in!? Are my nitrates and phosphates at a good number!? Is there anything I can or should be doing different to help this!? Should I clean sand bed every week or leave alone!? Did I accidentally crash my cycle and start a new one!? I know it’s a lot of questions but please any help is greatly appreciated. Side note in my hob filter I run seachem matrix for bio media “Wich come out of another 6 month old fish only tank i had along with half the rock before I ever set this tank up” Filter floss, carbon pad and little bag of gfo to help battle my previous high nitrates.

DBF0979B-7C77-4E07-AA5C-6326ED3D026F.jpeg 1D433B34-5377-40C3-A898-B11518E618B1.jpeg 554A65E9-6700-4D0B-BEAC-6A34D42A280B.jpeg 5C695672-C1E0-4F67-937E-9F6D6A1A8845.jpeg F211E200-F749-43A4-B018-71052870D798.jpeg
As BigG Indicated, part of the maturity process and
Just now getting a chance to reply to Everyone but so since my phosphate reads 0.10 ppm should I stop running gfo in my filter? And also would it benifit me to just do away with the gfo and carbon pad and just start running chemi pure blue? Along with my nitrate and phosphate tester, I got the hanna salon fly and temperature tester and I was so excited to use it, calibrated this morn did everything I’m suppsoed to and my salt water only read 1.022… I calibrated my refractometer just to make sure I had it dial in right tested water again with it and it read 1.025 I read that apparently a lot of ppl have trouble with the Hanna salinity tester.. Wich is a bummer I’m debating on just sending it back and get my money bakc and keep using my refractometer

As BigG Indicated, part of the maturity process and Brandon is correct- GFO is unnecessary Unless your are dealing with constant high Phosphate issues which can be resolved without Ferrous Oxide which is very strong media. Likely a bacterial bloom and when a sudden increase in the number of bacterial colonies generates and becomes suspended in the water column, it grows so quickly that it becomes more visible causing the water to become milky and hazy in appearance due to an increase in the nutrients in the water especially nitrates and phosphates.
Carbon will help as will small water changes.
 

vetteguy53081

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Just now getting a chance to reply to Everyone but so since my phosphate reads 0.10 ppm should I stop running gfo in my filter? And also would it benifit me to just do away with the gfo and carbon pad and just start running chemi pure blue? Along with my nitrate and phosphate tester, I got the hanna salon fly and temperature tester and I was so excited to use it, calibrated this morn did everything I’m suppsoed to and my salt water only read 1.022… I calibrated my refractometer just to make sure I had it dial in right tested water again with it and it read 1.025 I read that apparently a lot of ppl have trouble with the Hanna salinity tester.. Wich is a bummer I’m debating on just sending it back and get my money bakc and keep using my refractometer
.1 is an acceptable high. .04-.08 is a recommended range and you are not much above that range.
I use hanna salinity and its been very good to me. I also use Chemipure blue and it does keep phos in check without the GFO contained in ChemiPure Elite.
For phos- what is TDO of your RO unit or are you using tap water from faucet ?
 
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dcreasy9880

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.1 is an acceptable high. .04-.08 is a recommended range and you are not much above that range.
I use hanna salinity and its been very good to me. I also use Chemipure blue and it does keep phos in check without the GFO contained in ChemiPure Elite.
For phos- what is TDO of your RO unit or are you using tap water from faucet ?
I currently rent my house and between my house and landlords house we share a well so I don’t have my own RODI unit I wanted to wait till I bought a house before I spent the money on a ro system and installed it in the house.. for now I just buy RODI from my lfs I know the unit he uses is one of the big “nice” ones from bulk reef supply
 

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I currently rent my house and between my house and landlords house we share a well so I don’t have my own RODI unit I wanted to wait till I bought a house before I spent the money on a ro system and installed it in the house.. for now I just buy RODI from my lfs I know the unit he uses is one of the big “nice” ones from bulk reef supply
As an assurance (and i too had to deal with well system, but with surprisingly good water) -
Test the phosphate level from your purchased water to assure its not high in phosphates. At times stores sell water with high nitrates or Phos and dont even realize it.
If you dont have a phos kit, Have a DIFFERENT LFS test for you so your LFS doesnt think youre insulting them
 

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I currently rent my house and between my house and landlords house we share a well so I don’t have my own RODI unit I wanted to wait till I bought a house before I spent the money on a ro system and installed it in the house.. for now I just buy RODI from my lfs I know the unit he uses is one of the big “nice” ones from bulk reef supply
I just want to say. They make Ro Di units that just hook up to a faucet search Amazon. With what is in the American water no one is drinking it or using it for fish. Even the well water can be polluted nowadays.
 
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dcreasy9880

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I just want to say. They make Ro Di units that just hook up to a faucet search Amazon. With what is in the American water no one is drinking it or using it for fish. Even the well water can be polluted nowadays.
I only put rodi water in my tank and knock on wood ever since I upgraded my tank as been amazing
 

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gfo doesn't help with nitrates, quit using gfo in that tank it doesn't need it.
You know I put some gfo in my tank and the water clarity dropped big time. I pulled it out and in a couple days the water went Crystal clear. After that I went back to seachem Purigen and never looked back.
 

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