75 Display with 25 Sump

  • Thread starter Thread starter ccook
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None

ccook

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 30, 2024
Messages
7
Reaction score
16
Location
Maryville
What state or country do you live in
Missouri
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
75 Gallon Aqueon Glass Tank not drilled
Trigger Platinum 26 Sump
Eshopps AEO 11015 Overflow box Pf-1200
Reefmat
COR15 Intelligent Sump pump
AI 10 Algae Scrubber
AI Axis Centrifugal 40 pump
AI Refugium Blade LED Light
Radion XR30 G6 Pro LED Light
AI 48” Blade Grow LED Light
AI 48” Blade Glow LED Light
2 MP40’s
2 300w heaters
1 Ink Bird Heater Controller
Apex A3 Pro Controller
3 EB832 Energy Bars
Apex MXM Module
3 FMM modules
2 - 1/2” flow meters
1 optical switch sensor
3 - 15” Apex Level Meters
1 optical floor water detector sensor
1 io breakout module
1 Trident MAW
1 Trident NP
1- DOS QD’s for dosing
2 DDR DOS Reservoirs
Dosing when needed - Kalkwasser, AllForReef, Magnesium7, Microbactor7
CO2 Reactor
Carbon Reactor
GFO Reactor
ConeS Q-1 Protein Skimmer
BRS 25w Classic UV Sterilizer
1 tank stand
1 side stand housing my sump and hard plumbed
1 side stand with all electronics mounted inside
1 UPS backup supply - working on installing a whole house generator
BRS 7 Stage RODI
RODI Booster pump
Mixing station
- 35 Gallon Brutte trash can for saltwater
Had been making 35 gallons of saltwater and leaving it sit with a wave pump and heater but have noticed slimy algae growth. Moving to only making saltwater day of use instead to bring ORP down from 475 to under 350.
- 35 Gallon Brutte trash can for RODI storage
1 Tunze Osmator 3 ATO
1 - 5 gallon Bashsea reservoir for ATO
2 - 10 Gallon Bashsea reservoirs for AWC
1 - DOS QD for AWC - changing 2 gallons everyday automatically.
 
Following along!
 
75 Gallon Aqueon Glass Tank not drilled
Trigger Platinum 26 Sump
Eshopps AEO 11015 Overflow box Pf-1200
Reefmat
COR15 Intelligent Sump pump
AI 10 Algae Scrubber
AI Axis Centrifugal 40 pump
AI Refugium Blade LED Light
Radion XR30 G6 Pro LED Light
AI 48” Blade Grow LED Light
AI 48” Blade Glow LED Light
2 MP40’s
2 300w heaters
1 Ink Bird Heater Controller
Apex A3 Pro Controller
3 EB832 Energy Bars
Apex MXM Module
3 FMM modules
2 - 1/2” flow meters
1 optical switch sensor
3 - 15” Apex Level Meters
1 optical floor water detector sensor
1 io breakout module
1 Trident MAW
1 Trident NP
1- DOS QD’s for dosing
2 DDR DOS Reservoirs
Dosing when needed - Kalkwasser, AllForReef, Magnesium7, Microbactor7
CO2 Reactor
Carbon Reactor
GFO Reactor
ConeS Q-1 Protein Skimmer
BRS 25w Classic UV Sterilizer
1 tank stand
1 side stand housing my sump and hard plumbed
1 side stand with all electronics mounted inside
1 UPS backup supply - working on installing a whole house generator
BRS 7 Stage RODI
RODI Booster pump
Mixing station
- 35 Gallon Brutte trash can for saltwater
Had been making 35 gallons of saltwater and leaving it sit with a wave pump and heater but have noticed slimy algae growth. Moving to only making saltwater day of use instead to bring ORP down from 475 to under 350.
- 35 Gallon Brutte trash can for RODI storage
1 Tunze Osmator 3 ATO
1 - 5 gallon Bashsea reservoir for ATO
2 - 10 Gallon Bashsea reservoirs for AWC
1 - DOS QD for AWC - changing 2 gallons everyday automatically.
Have a hard time using this reef2reef thread. When I go to my home under tanks it shows I do not have one setup. However, I have created a thread with my tank and all the equipment. Unfortunately, this is not a very new user friendly interface.

I will now try to start a daily status of my tank progress. It has been a long haul with lots of tribulations. I will say that I am finally growing coral which took almost a year to make happen. I have all the greatest gear but extremely bad habits of tweaking everything and putting my hands in my tank everyday.

At first (about 3 months after cycle completed), I had too much gear and I stripped the N03 and P04 down to nothing. I struggled with what I believed a small case Dino’s and then cyano. I bought a microscope but could not ever get a good enough sample to see the Dino’s effectively. They definitely acted just like Dino’s. Good thing I run a 25w UV 24/7. I was stirring up the sand and removing the thick algae/sand as much as I could daily till it all eventually disappeared and then that is when the cyano started. I managed to beat both fairly quickly (about 2 months) in my newly established tank back then. After my first few issues were solved I felt confident I could be successful. Have not had any other outbreaks. Though I still occasionally find some cyano on some rocks but I keep that stuff cleaned and removed daily.

For the last year, I have done a good job at keeping NO3 and PO4 numbers fairly steady. Salinity and temperature are rock steady.

I DOS All4Reef to keep alkalinity, calcium and magnesium levels steady. I can grow the heck out of soft corral but have struggled with LPS and SPS.

I do have problems with elevated magnesium. Usually sits over 1500ppm. I have come to the conclusion it is from the Tropic Marin Pro Reef salt mix I am using. I love this salt so I am not changing it. I was thinking that the elevated magnesium was my issue with my LPS and SPS corals not growing. However, I do believe I was wrong in my magnesium assessment being the issue.

I currently have 11 fish:
Yellow Tang
Mated pair clown fish
Royal Gramma
Filefish (has now eaten all of my pulsing xenia)
Six Line Wrasse
Bicolor Blenny
Orchid Dottyback
A pair of Lemon Damselfish (These are devils)
Tuxedo Urchin
Trochus snails
Nessarius snails
Blue legged hermit crabs
Red legged hermit crabs
About 23 different frags of soft, LPS and SPS corals

I have had very few fish loss over the last year and a half but a large amount of coral loss. I do have some corals that have done well. Duncan started as 2 heads is now like 12 heads. 1 torch started out as a single head and is now at 3 heads. 1 hammer started as 2 heads is now at 5 heads. Kryptonite Candy cane coral started at 2 heads is now 12 heads and another candy cane started at 2 heads is now at 10 heads. I have a red plate monti that has quadrupled in size, a digi that is absolutely exploding in growth, a birds nest and a few other SPS growing. A leather that keeps on growing and then shedding its leaves. A toadstool that is absolutely huge and continuing to grow. Most of the major recent growth I believe is because I started to DOS Tropic Marin block trace elements based on Tropic Marin ICP results. However, over the last year I would say I have lost several hundred if not a couple thousand dollars in other coral before I started dosing the trace elements.

Now for what I believe the issue is and my solve to take my tank to the next level for growth. Lighting is excellent. PAR is 350 at the top of my reef and 90-100 at the sand. I have several caves and passage ways for my fish. Flow is good. I have 2 MP40’s as well as 2 gyro xf350 cloud WM’s. All are set fairly low in speed making sure I do not have too much flow for the torches, Hammer and Frogspawn but enough for the Acro’s.

I believe one of my biggest issues has been my struggles with my PH stability. I have always had a big problem with daily PH swings. I can get it up to 8.15 with windows open in the house but it drops down to 7.79 overnight. If I do not open windows for several days like this summer my PH would not even make above 8 during the day. I have used a BRS C02 reactor since I started my system but that has not made much difference. I also keep the fresh air suction line out in the garage while my tank sits inside the house. This makes a very small reduction in my PH swings but in my opinion not enough. I also run an algae reactor on opposite light schedule as my main tank lights to assist with reducing the PH swings. It has not made much difference. I have even added an additional sump light at night but that has had zero effect on my PH swings as well.

I believe Kalkwasser would have a big impact in bringing my PH swings down to a minimum.

Kalkwasser setup though really cheap to get going has been a bit of a big challenge to set up. I have had to have a ton of programming in my Apex to get the stirrer, Kalk DOS as well as make sure the All4Reef dosing coordinated and right. I worry that my ALK and calcium will go way out of spec. Problem is even though I deal with automation equipment for work evidently, I am not that familiar with Apex programming. I have been confident in my abilities to program my Apex properly. However, reality is I am not quite an expert yet.

So after the last couple years of trying to ignore AI, I finally used it for the first time to assist with some of the Apex programming. And wow I was amazed at what it could do!

After asking questions and giving address names and answering questions AI helped me set up programming for my All4Reef DOS, Kalk DOS, and Kalk stirrer. There were several safeties put in place as well as set up my RODI ATO for the Kalk Reactor. It looked amazing and I thought it was great!

I could not sleep well the first night because how nervous I was depending on AI to help me write the programming for my Apex.

The next morning, I took a look at my PH and there was no change on Fusion and my Trident ACM alkalinity test at Midnight and 6am was a little low. I was thoroughly confused as to why the alkalinity and or PH had no change from the Kalk DOS. Turns out I did not see any actually DOS amounts in my graphs for DOSQDR. I checked everything appeared to be fine. Kalk Outlet state was “Off” in Auto, Kalk Permit virtual Outlet state was “Off” in Auto, Kalk Lock state was “Off” in Auto, PH Lock outlet state was “Off” in Auto. I was generally confused. All4Reef Permit state was “On” and in auto. All4Reef DOS state was “OK TBL” in Auto. All4Reef DOS state “On” in Auto.

So I proceeded to perform manual water testing of all my parameters (Alkalinity, Calcium, Magnesium, N03 and P04) using all of my Hanna testers. Started to see my N03 spiked hard from 7ppm to 20ppm over night on my Hanna testers. I was not overly concerned with that as I had convinced myself that my Trident NP was out of calibration again because I know I have expired reagents in it. Then at 11:27am my Trident NP Measured N03 at 65ppm. Then at noon after the Trident ACM completed its testing I started to see elevated Alkalinity, Calcium and Magnesium parameters. High and rising but not over the top yet.

Looked around for something possibly dead but could not find anything. I increased my water change from the 1 gallon a day to 2 gallons per day to aid in the spiking N03, Alkalinity, Calcium, and Magnesium.

Later that night I saw my Trident ACM Alkalinity parameters swinging hard upwards. In my thoughts, I thought that is impossible because I turned off the All4Reef DOS and Kalk DOS.

The next morning I started to see an increase in my Alkalinity and then my Calcium and was doing my normal routine fill up my AWC reservoir, drained old salt water from the reservoir and filled my RODI ATO reservoir. I took a look at my readings in Fusion again. Found my trident ACM Alkalinity test went into Alarm. Thought that was strange as that never happens. Then 6am test, test at noon and beyond were all in Alarm for Alkalinity. I went to check on the DDR reservoirs and found All4Reef completely empty and dry. At that point I knew I had a big problem. I had DOS’d nearly 1 liter of All4Reef the day before. I thought oh crap this is bad. I immediately changed my AWC to 4 gallons daily as I did not want to bring it back down as fast as it was rising.

In the meantime I still continued to DOS all my Block trace Elements as well as Tropic Marin K+ and A-. Before it was all said and done NO3 climbed to 65ppm. Then my Trident NP went into alarm for N03 until it finally came back down into measurable amounts. Alkalinity went beyond measurement capability 20+ DKH. Calcium over 600 PPM Magnesium over 1600ppm. It took nearly 7 or 8 days days for Alkalinity to finally return to under 9 DKH, Calcium back under 450ppm and Magnesium back down to 1500ppm.

Took my programming back to google AI instead of ChatGBT . Turns out I had one bad line in the All4Reef DOS program. “Set On” was a terrible idea in my code for my DOSQD. It is not an outlet so that is not a command that should be used. The Kalk DOS also had some improper programming which causing it to not DOS.

Needless to say to say I got everything programmed correctly now. My Neptune ATK ATO has been giving me issues for the past year. AI found the issue with its programming as well.

For the first time now 3 weeks later I feel confident that everything is now working as it should.

AI is great but you still need to know what you are looking at. Best way is to use two different AI models to check themselves out. A whole lot of time and stress could have been avoided by this.

Crazy thing is the only thing I lost was my Pulsing Xenia which was out of control. Looks like my Filefish has now found out that it is food and devoured it all. Even other little patches. Funny thing is last month I was trying to give my Pulsing Zenia away because it was such an overgrown weed.

AI says that it released sugars in the water and the Filefish picked up on it and started to eat it I believe I will probably have to get rid of him because I have other soft corals that I do not want him to eat. Maybe that is why I cannot keep Zoa’s.

My new Blue hammer was just getting acclimated to my take parameters as well as my gold frogspawn. They are both retracted and have not come out for a few weeks now. At night the blue hammer sticks some tentacles out to catch food but my gold frogspawn has not shown any tentacles. I have not seen any brown jelly disease or bailed polyps so I am still holding out hope for them to recover.

On the positive side of things, with all this research and looking things over I discovered why my C02 reactor does not make a difference with my PH. I found out that I connected my skimmer line from my C02 reactor to the air silencer port on my skimmer. I should have bypassed it and plugged it straight to my skimmer pump. When I did this today I could physically feel the suction on the line at the C02 reactor for the first time ever and my PH high today rose to 8.25. First time ever above 8.15. I did have the windows open today but I pulled my fresh air suction line to my C02 reactor back inside from the garage and still saw it climb that high. I believe I have finally made
some good progress and hopefully finally level out the PH swings. It is 7:46pm now dark outside, tank lights have been off for over 2 hours and my PH is still 8.18.

Tomorrow, I will add some pictures and updates on how it goes tonight.
 
75 Gallon Aqueon Glass Tank not drilled
Trigger Platinum 26 Sump
Eshopps AEO 11015 Overflow box Pf-1200
Reefmat
COR15 Intelligent Sump pump
AI 10 Algae Scrubber
AI Axis Centrifugal 40 pump
AI Refugium Blade LED Light
Radion XR30 G6 Pro LED Light
AI 48” Blade Grow LED Light
AI 48” Blade Glow LED Light
2 MP40’s
2 300w heaters
1 Ink Bird Heater Controller
Apex A3 Pro Controller
3 EB832 Energy Bars
Apex MXM Module
3 FMM modules
2 - 1/2” flow meters
1 optical switch sensor
3 - 15” Apex Level Meters
1 optical floor water detector sensor
1 io breakout module
1 Trident MAW
1 Trident NP
1- DOS QD’s for dosing
2 DDR DOS Reservoirs
Dosing when needed - Kalkwasser, AllForReef, Magnesium7, Microbactor7
CO2 Reactor
Carbon Reactor
GFO Reactor
ConeS Q-1 Protein Skimmer
BRS 25w Classic UV Sterilizer
1 tank stand
1 side stand housing my sump and hard plumbed
1 side stand with all electronics mounted inside
1 UPS backup supply - working on installing a whole house generator
BRS 7 Stage RODI
RODI Booster pump
Mixing station
- 35 Gallon Brutte trash can for saltwater
Had been making 35 gallons of saltwater and leaving it sit with a wave pump and heater but have noticed slimy algae growth. Moving to only making saltwater day of use instead to bring ORP down from 475 to under 350.
- 35 Gallon Brutte trash can for RODI storage
1 Tunze Osmator 3 ATO
1 - 5 gallon Bashsea reservoir for ATO
2 - 10 Gallon Bashsea reservoirs for AWC
1 - DOS QD for AWC - changing 2 gallons everyday automatically.
Have a hard time using this reef2reef thread. When I go to my home under tanks it shows I do not have one setup. However, I have created a thread with my tank and all the equipment. Unfortunately, this is not a very new user friendly interface.

I will now try to start a daily status of my tank progress. It has been a long haul with lots of tribulations. I will say that I am finally growing coral which took almost a year to make happen. I have all the greatest gear but extremely bad habits of tweaking everything and putting my hands in my tank everyday.

At first (about 3 months after cycle completed), I had too much gear and I stripped the N03 and P04 down to nothing. I struggled with what I believed a small case Dino’s and then cyano. I bought a microscope but could not ever get a good enough sample to see the Dino’s effectively. They definitely acted just like Dino’s. Good thing I run a 25w UV 24/7. I was stirring up the sand and removing the thick algae/sand as much as I could daily till it all eventually disappeared and then that is when the cyano started. I managed to beat both fairly quickly (about 2 months) in my newly established tank back then. After my first few issues were solved I felt confident I could be successful. Have not had any other outbreaks. Though I still occasionally find some cyano on some rocks but I keep that stuff cleaned and removed daily.

For the last year, I have done a good job at keeping NO3 and PO4 numbers fairly steady. Salinity and temperature are rock steady.

I DOS All4Reef to keep alkalinity, calcium and magnesium levels steady. I can grow the heck out of soft corral but have struggled with LPS and SPS.

I do have problems with elevated magnesium. Usually sits over 1500ppm. I have come to the conclusion it is from the Tropic Marin Pro Reef salt mix I am using. I love this salt so I am not changing it. I was thinking that the elevated magnesium was my issue with my LPS and SPS corals not growing. However, I do believe I was wrong in my magnesium assessment being the issue.

I currently have 11 fish:
Yellow Tang
Mated pair clown fish
Royal Gramma
Filefish (has now eaten all of my pulsing xenia)
Six Line Wrasse
Bicolor Blenny
Orchid Dottyback
A pair of Lemon Damselfish (These are devils)
Tuxedo Urchin
Trochus snails
Nessarius snails
Blue legged hermit crabs
Red legged hermit crabs
About 23 different frags of soft, LPS and SPS corals

I have had very few fish loss over the last year and a half but a large amount of coral loss. I do have some corals that have done well. Duncan started as 2 heads is now like 12 heads. 1 torch started out as a single head and is now at 3 heads. 1 hammer started as 2 heads is now at 5 heads. Kryptonite Candy cane coral started at 2 heads is now 12 heads and another candy cane started at 2 heads is now at 10 heads. I have a red plate monti that has quadrupled in size, a digi that is absolutely exploding in growth, a birds nest and a few other SPS growing. A leather that keeps on growing and then shedding its leaves. A toadstool that is absolutely huge and continuing to grow. Most of the major recent growth I believe is because I started to DOS Tropic Marin block trace elements based on Tropic Marin ICP results. However, over the last year I would say I have lost several hundred if not a couple thousand dollars in other coral before I started dosing the trace elements.

Now for what I believe the issue is and my solve to take my tank to the next level for growth. Lighting is excellent. PAR is 350 at the top of my reef and 90-100 at the sand. I have several caves and passage ways for my fish. Flow is good. I have 2 MP40’s as well as 2 gyro xf350 cloud WM’s. All are set fairly low in speed making sure I do not have too much flow for the torches, Hammer and Frogspawn but enough for the Acro’s.

I believe one of my biggest issues has been my struggles with my PH stability. I have always had a big problem with daily PH swings. I can get it up to 8.15 with windows open in the house but it drops down to 7.79 overnight. If I do not open windows for several days like this summer my PH would not even make above 8 during the day. I have used a BRS C02 reactor since I started my system but that has not made much difference. I also keep the fresh air suction line out in the garage while my tank sits inside the house. This makes a very small reduction in my PH swings but in my opinion not enough. I also run an algae reactor on opposite light schedule as my main tank lights to assist with reducing the PH swings. It has not made much difference. I have even added an additional sump light at night but that has had zero effect on my PH swings as well.

I believe Kalkwasser would have a big impact in bringing my PH swings down to a minimum.

Kalkwasser setup though really cheap to get going has been a bit of a big challenge to set up. I have had to have a ton of programming in my Apex to get the stirrer, Kalk DOS as well as make sure the All4Reef dosing coordinated and right. I worry that my ALK and calcium will go way out of spec. Problem is even though I deal with automation equipment for work evidently, I am not that familiar with Apex programming. I have been confident in my abilities to program my Apex properly. However, reality is I am not quite an expert yet.

So after the last couple years of trying to ignore AI, I finally used it for the first time to assist with some of the Apex programming. And wow I was amazed at what it could do!

After asking questions and giving address names and answering questions AI helped me set up programming for my All4Reef DOS, Kalk DOS, and Kalk stirrer. There were several safeties put in place as well as set up my RODI ATO for the Kalk Reactor. It looked amazing and I thought it was great!

I could not sleep well the first night because how nervous I was depending on AI to help me write the programming for my Apex.

The next morning, I took a look at my PH and there was no change on Fusion and my Trident ACM alkalinity test at Midnight and 6am was a little low. I was thoroughly confused as to why the alkalinity and or PH had no change from the Kalk DOS. Turns out I did not see any actually DOS amounts in my graphs for DOSQDR. I checked everything appeared to be fine. Kalk Outlet state was “Off” in Auto, Kalk Permit virtual Outlet state was “Off” in Auto, Kalk Lock state was “Off” in Auto, PH Lock outlet state was “Off” in Auto. I was generally confused. All4Reef Permit state was “On” and in auto. All4Reef DOS state was “OK TBL” in Auto. All4Reef DOS state “On” in Auto.

So I proceeded to perform manual water testing of all my parameters (Alkalinity, Calcium, Magnesium, N03 and P04) using all of my Hanna testers. Started to see my N03 spiked hard from 7ppm to 20ppm over night on my Hanna testers. I was not overly concerned with that as I had convinced myself that my Trident NP was out of calibration again because I know I have expired reagents in it. Then at 11:27am my Trident NP Measured N03 at 65ppm. Then at noon after the Trident ACM completed its testing I started to see elevated Alkalinity, Calcium and Magnesium parameters. High and rising but not over the top yet.

Looked around for something possibly dead but could not find anything. I increased my water change from the 1 gallon a day to 2 gallons per day to aid in the spiking N03, Alkalinity, Calcium, and Magnesium.

Later that night I saw my Trident ACM Alkalinity parameters swinging hard upwards. In my thoughts, I thought that is impossible because I turned off the All4Reef DOS and Kalk DOS.

The next morning I started to see an increase in my Alkalinity and then my Calcium and was doing my normal routine fill up my AWC reservoir, drained old salt water from the reservoir and filled my RODI ATO reservoir. I took a look at my readings in Fusion again. Found my trident ACM Alkalinity test went into Alarm. Thought that was strange as that never happens. Then 6am test, test at noon and beyond were all in Alarm for Alkalinity. I went to check on the DDR reservoirs and found All4Reef completely empty and dry. At that point I knew I had a big problem. I had DOS’d nearly 1 liter of All4Reef the day before. I thought oh crap this is bad. I immediately changed my AWC to 4 gallons daily as I did not want to bring it back down as fast as it was rising.

In the meantime I still continued to DOS all my Block trace Elements as well as Tropic Marin K+ and A-. Before it was all said and done NO3 climbed to 65ppm. Then my Trident NP went into alarm for N03 until it finally came back down into measurable amounts. Alkalinity went beyond measurement capability 20+ DKH. Calcium over 600 PPM Magnesium over 1600ppm. It took nearly 7 or 8 days days for Alkalinity to finally return to under 9 DKH, Calcium back under 450ppm and Magnesium back down to 1500ppm.

Took my programming back to google AI instead of ChatGBT . Turns out I had one bad line in the All4Reef DOS program. “Set On” was a terrible idea in my code for my DOSQD. It is not an outlet so that is not a command that should be used. The Kalk DOS also had some improper programming which causing it to not DOS.

Needless to say to say I got everything programmed correctly now. My Neptune ATK ATO has been giving me issues for the past year. AI found the issue with its programming as well.

For the first time now 3 weeks later I feel confident that everything is now working as it should.

AI is great but you still need to know what you are looking at. Best way is to use two different AI models to check themselves out. A whole lot of time and stress could have been avoided by this.

Crazy thing is the only thing I lost was my Pulsing Xenia which was out of control. Looks like my Filefish has now found out that it is food and devoured it all. Even other little patches. Funny thing is last month I was trying to give my Pulsing Zenia away because it was such an overgrown weed.

AI says that it released sugars in the water and the Filefish picked up on it and started to eat it I believe I will probably have to get rid of him because I have other soft corals that I do not want him to eat. Maybe that is why I cannot keep Zoa’s.

My new Blue hammer was just getting acclimated to my take parameters as well as my gold frogspawn. They are both retracted and have not come out for a few weeks now. At night the blue hammer sticks some tentacles out to catch food but my gold frogspawn has not shown any tentacles. I have not seen any brown jelly disease or bailed polyps so I am still holding out hope for them to recover.

On the positive side of things, with all this research and looking things over I discovered why my C02 reactor does not make a difference with my PH. I found out that I connected my skimmer line from my C02 reactor to the air silencer port on my skimmer. I should have bypassed it and plugged it straight to my skimmer pump. When I did this today I could physically feel the suction on the line at the C02 reactor for the first time ever and my PH high today rose to 8.25. First time ever above 8.15. I did have the windows open today but I pulled my fresh air suction line to my C02 reactor back inside from the garage and still saw it climb that high. I believe I have finally made
some good progress and hopefully finally level out the PH swings. It is 7:46pm now dark outside, tank lights have been off for over 2 hours and my PH is still 8.18.

Tomorrow, I will add some pictures and updates on how it goes tonight.
Looks like overnight Kalk DOSing was a success. PH did still swing but for the first time ever my PH did not drop below 8.0. Still have a bit to go to even out the swing. Yesterday PH hit 8.25 at peak and overnight very early this morning at lights on it had dropped down to 8.03. I call that a small win.

I do have a skimmer air recirculating lid for my C02 reactor air supply coming. Should be here in a few days and will add that right away. It will reduce the amount of CO2 absorbing media changes in my reactor by about 4 times as well as increase the stability PH over time because I will be recirculating the same air. I am hoping to keep my PH swings under .10 overnight if that is possible.

Calcium has stabilized as well as my calcium was at 435 ppm yesterday at noon and last night at midnight it was at 424 ppm. At noon today will be another test and I am hoping that it is within that same window.

My DOSing system will have to continue for a couple more days to see where the param’s sit once the All4Reef DOSing stabilizes. As I have read and experienced All4Reef takes about 2 days to see the changes made from amounts of the DOS.

Alkalinity was at 8.58 dkh at 6pm last night, at 12am it dropped to 8.03 dkh. By 6am it was up to 8.11 dkh. I will have to keep tweaking the DOS amounts of my All4Reef and increase my Kalk DOS in very small amounts to reduce as much of the swings as possible with Alkalinity.

Magnesium has been coming down little by little but still remains over 1500 ppm. Yesterday at noon it was at 1535 ppm and at midnight this morning it was at 1534 ppm. We will see where it goes to at noon today.

N03 is a bit harder to depend on my Trident NP testing results. It jumps around too much for my confidence in the consistency of the results. When I test with my Hanna’s it is usually around 7 ppm and my P04 is usually around 0.07 ppm. I do calibrate my NP to my Hanna results but the NP only tests once a day a 10am everyday. Once the calibration is completed the results after the NP is done running the calibration adjustment the readings fault back to where they were before I run the calibration. The new results after the calibration are completed the next test cycle at 10am. NP calibration requires the unit to have not tested within 24 hours before running the calibration mode. So to see the changes effectively it takes roughly 36 hours. Too hard to have confidence in that until more time passes. Also, add into the mix when I bought my last NP reagents from my LFS I did not realize the reagents were already expired by one month when I bought it. I then installed that reagent 1 month later so it is expired by 3 months now after a little over a month of use. I have about 7 or 8 more days of testing before I will change out to a new box of unexpired reagents bought from Saltwateraquarium.com. I anticipate that it will be all over the place again till I finally get it calibrated again.

From now on I will only buy the reagents online from BRS or SWA moving forward so I can be sure the reagents are not expired. I love my LFS so I am not knocking the store, but unless people buy these regularly it is hard for a small retailer to keep these in stock without expiring. I live in a small rural community about a 45 minute drive north of my LFS. The store is not in a major
Metropolitan city. It is in a city of about 70,000 people. It is about 30 minutes north from a major population center with approximately 670,000 people. My little town is 45 minutes North of my LFS and my town has about 10,000 population.

Enough rambling, I will take some pictures and attach next.
 
Hi ccook, I also have an undrilled 75g Aqueon. In the past I had good success with Eshopps overflow boxes but when I bought this tank last year I decided to go sumpless. I wanted a simpler reef that focused on biological function for most of the filtering but I do have an oversized Oase BioMaster canister. I chose it for the integrated heater and the pre-filter that can be removed and cleaned without opening the canister. Anyway, I hope you love your 75g as much as I love mine. Its a great footprint.
 
Hi ccook, I also have an undrilled 75g Aqueon. In the past I had good success with Eshopps overflow boxes but when I bought this tank last year I decided to go sumpless. I wanted a simpler reef that focused on biological function for most of the filtering but I do have an oversized Oase BioMaster canister. I chose it for the integrated heater and the pre-filter that can be removed and cleaned without opening the canister. Anyway, I hope you love your 75g as much as I love mine. Its a great footprint.
Hi vlangel, thank you for your response. I originally started about 2 years ago with a Fluval fx4 canister filter. It worked but I did not enjoy taking it apart to clean it out. Then I had a power outage while out on vacation and the tank and all of its inhabitants died. Only remaining fish was a salt water black molly and the kryptonite candy cane coral I still have today. After that happened my tank sat empty for nearly 3 months. I wanted to be sure there was no fish disease remaining in my tank so it sat empty. In the meantime I had an old 55 gallon tank I bought at Walmart nearly 20 years before and I set it up till and swapped the Molly and a few pieces of my live rock from my crashed tank along with the snails and crabs that remained. It kept everything till I got my current 75 gallon back up and going. Only this time I decided to go with a sump and all the automation. Was trying to avoid another big crash because I do sometimes travel for work or go out on vacation. So far it has worked but not without its challenges as you can see. But I do love my system and enjoy it so much.

Your system sounds wonderful.
 
75 Gallon Aqueon Glass Tank not drilled
Trigger Platinum 26 Sump
Eshopps AEO 11015 Overflow box Pf-1200
Reefmat
COR15 Intelligent Sump pump
AI 10 Algae Scrubber
AI Axis Centrifugal 40 pump
AI Refugium Blade LED Light
Radion XR30 G6 Pro LED Light
AI 48” Blade Grow LED Light
AI 48” Blade Glow LED Light
2 MP40’s
2 300w heaters
1 Ink Bird Heater Controller
Apex A3 Pro Controller
3 EB832 Energy Bars
Apex MXM Module
3 FMM modules
2 - 1/2” flow meters
1 optical switch sensor
3 - 15” Apex Level Meters
1 optical floor water detector sensor
1 io breakout module
1 Trident MAW
1 Trident NP
1- DOS QD’s for dosing
2 DDR DOS Reservoirs
Dosing when needed - Kalkwasser, AllForReef, Magnesium7, Microbactor7
CO2 Reactor
Carbon Reactor
GFO Reactor
ConeS Q-1 Protein Skimmer
BRS 25w Classic UV Sterilizer
1 tank stand
1 side stand housing my sump and hard plumbed
1 side stand with all electronics mounted inside
1 UPS backup supply - working on installing a whole house generator
BRS 7 Stage RODI
RODI Booster pump
Mixing station
- 35 Gallon Brutte trash can for saltwater
Had been making 35 gallons of saltwater and leaving it sit with a wave pump and heater but have noticed slimy algae growth. Moving to only making saltwater day of use instead to bring ORP down from 475 to under 350.
- 35 Gallon Brutte trash can for RODI storage
1 Tunze Osmator 3 ATO
1 - 5 gallon Bashsea reservoir for ATO
2 - 10 Gallon Bashsea reservoirs for AWC
1 - DOS QD for AWC - changing 2 gallons everyday automatically.
Have a hard time using this reef2reef thread. When I go to my home under tanks it shows I do not have one setup. However, I have created a thread with my tank and all the equipment. Unfortunately, this is not a very new user friendly interface.

I will now try to start a daily status of my tank progress. It has been a long haul with lots of tribulations. I will say that I am finally growing coral which took almost a year to make happen. I have all the greatest gear but extremely bad habits of tweaking everything and putting my hands in my tank everyday.

At first (about 3 months after cycle completed), I had too much gear and I stripped the N03 and P04 down to nothing. I struggled with what I believed a small case Dino’s and then cyano. I bought a microscope but could not ever get a good enough sample to see the Dino’s effectively. They definitely acted just like Dino’s. Good thing I run a 25w UV 24/7. I was stirring up the sand and removing the thick algae/sand as much as I could daily till it all eventually disappeared and then that is when the cyano started. I managed to beat both fairly quickly (about 2 months) in my newly established tank back then. After my first few issues were solved I felt confident I could be successful. Have not had any other outbreaks. Though I still occasionally find some cyano on some rocks but I keep that stuff cleaned and removed daily.

For the last year, I have done a good job at keeping NO3 and PO4 numbers fairly steady. Salinity and temperature are rock steady.

I DOS All4Reef to keep alkalinity, calcium and magnesium levels steady. I can grow the heck out of soft corral but have struggled with LPS and SPS.

I do have problems with elevated magnesium. Usually sits over 1500ppm. I have come to the conclusion it is from the Tropic Marin Pro Reef salt mix I am using. I love this salt so I am not changing it. I was thinking that the elevated magnesium was my issue with my LPS and SPS corals not growing. However, I do believe I was wrong in my magnesium assessment being the issue.

I currently have 11 fish:
Yellow Tang
Mated pair clown fish
Royal Gramma
Filefish (has now eaten all of my pulsing xenia)
Six Line Wrasse
Bicolor Blenny
Orchid Dottyback
A pair of Lemon Damselfish (These are devils)
Tuxedo Urchin
Trochus snails
Nessarius snails
Blue legged hermit crabs
Red legged hermit crabs
About 23 different frags of soft, LPS and SPS corals

I have had very few fish loss over the last year and a half but a large amount of coral loss. I do have some corals that have done well. Duncan started as 2 heads is now like 12 heads. 1 torch started out as a single head and is now at 3 heads. 1 hammer started as 2 heads is now at 5 heads. Kryptonite Candy cane coral started at 2 heads is now 12 heads and another candy cane started at 2 heads is now at 10 heads. I have a red plate monti that has quadrupled in size, a digi that is absolutely exploding in growth, a birds nest and a few other SPS growing. A leather that keeps on growing and then shedding its leaves. A toadstool that is absolutely huge and continuing to grow. Most of the major recent growth I believe is because I started to DOS Tropic Marin block trace elements based on Tropic Marin ICP results. However, over the last year I would say I have lost several hundred if not a couple thousand dollars in other coral before I started dosing the trace elements.

Now for what I believe the issue is and my solve to take my tank to the next level for growth. Lighting is excellent. PAR is 350 at the top of my reef and 90-100 at the sand. I have several caves and passage ways for my fish. Flow is good. I have 2 MP40’s as well as 2 gyro xf350 cloud WM’s. All are set fairly low in speed making sure I do not have too much flow for the torches, Hammer and Frogspawn but enough for the Acro’s.

I believe one of my biggest issues has been my struggles with my PH stability. I have always had a big problem with daily PH swings. I can get it up to 8.15 with windows open in the house but it drops down to 7.79 overnight. If I do not open windows for several days like this summer my PH would not even make above 8 during the day. I have used a BRS C02 reactor since I started my system but that has not made much difference. I also keep the fresh air suction line out in the garage while my tank sits inside the house. This makes a very small reduction in my PH swings but in my opinion not enough. I also run an algae reactor on opposite light schedule as my main tank lights to assist with reducing the PH swings. It has not made much difference. I have even added an additional sump light at night but that has had zero effect on my PH swings as well.

I believe Kalkwasser would have a big impact in bringing my PH swings down to a minimum.

Kalkwasser setup though really cheap to get going has been a bit of a big challenge to set up. I have had to have a ton of programming in my Apex to get the stirrer, Kalk DOS as well as make sure the All4Reef dosing coordinated and right. I worry that my ALK and calcium will go way out of spec. Problem is even though I deal with automation equipment for work evidently, I am not that familiar with Apex programming. I have been confident in my abilities to program my Apex properly. However, reality is I am not quite an expert yet.

So after the last couple years of trying to ignore AI, I finally used it for the first time to assist with some of the Apex programming. And wow I was amazed at what it could do!

After asking questions and giving address names and answering questions AI helped me set up programming for my All4Reef DOS, Kalk DOS, and Kalk stirrer. There were several safeties put in place as well as set up my RODI ATO for the Kalk Reactor. It looked amazing and I thought it was great!

I could not sleep well the first night because how nervous I was depending on AI to help me write the programming for my Apex.

The next morning, I took a look at my PH and there was no change on Fusion and my Trident ACM alkalinity test at Midnight and 6am was a little low. I was thoroughly confused as to why the alkalinity and or PH had no change from the Kalk DOS. Turns out I did not see any actually DOS amounts in my graphs for DOSQDR. I checked everything appeared to be fine. Kalk Outlet state was “Off” in Auto, Kalk Permit virtual Outlet state was “Off” in Auto, Kalk Lock state was “Off” in Auto, PH Lock outlet state was “Off” in Auto. I was generally confused. All4Reef Permit state was “On” and in auto. All4Reef DOS state was “OK TBL” in Auto. All4Reef DOS state “On” in Auto.

So I proceeded to perform manual water testing of all my parameters (Alkalinity, Calcium, Magnesium, N03 and P04) using all of my Hanna testers. Started to see my N03 spiked hard from 7ppm to 20ppm over night on my Hanna testers. I was not overly concerned with that as I had convinced myself that my Trident NP was out of calibration again because I know I have expired reagents in it. Then at 11:27am my Trident NP Measured N03 at 65ppm. Then at noon after the Trident ACM completed its testing I started to see elevated Alkalinity, Calcium and Magnesium parameters. High and rising but not over the top yet.

Looked around for something possibly dead but could not find anything. I increased my water change from the 1 gallon a day to 2 gallons per day to aid in the spiking N03, Alkalinity, Calcium, and Magnesium.

Later that night I saw my Trident ACM Alkalinity parameters swinging hard upwards. In my thoughts, I thought that is impossible because I turned off the All4Reef DOS and Kalk DOS.

The next morning I started to see an increase in my Alkalinity and then my Calcium and was doing my normal routine fill up my AWC reservoir, drained old salt water from the reservoir and filled my RODI ATO reservoir. I took a look at my readings in Fusion again. Found my trident ACM Alkalinity test went into Alarm. Thought that was strange as that never happens. Then 6am test, test at noon and beyond were all in Alarm for Alkalinity. I went to check on the DDR reservoirs and found All4Reef completely empty and dry. At that point I knew I had a big problem. I had DOS’d nearly 1 liter of All4Reef the day before. I thought oh crap this is bad. I immediately changed my AWC to 4 gallons daily as I did not want to bring it back down as fast as it was rising.

In the meantime I still continued to DOS all my Block trace Elements as well as Tropic Marin K+ and A-. Before it was all said and done NO3 climbed to 65ppm. Then my Trident NP went into alarm for N03 until it finally came back down into measurable amounts. Alkalinity went beyond measurement capability 20+ DKH. Calcium over 600 PPM Magnesium over 1600ppm. It took nearly 7 or 8 days days for Alkalinity to finally return to under 9 DKH, Calcium back under 450ppm and Magnesium back down to 1500ppm.

Took my programming back to google AI instead of ChatGBT . Turns out I had one bad line in the All4Reef DOS program. “Set On” was a terrible idea in my code for my DOSQD. It is not an outlet so that is not a command that should be used. The Kalk DOS also had some improper programming which causing it to not DOS.

Needless to say to say I got everything programmed correctly now. My Neptune ATK ATO has been giving me issues for the past year. AI found the issue with its programming as well.

For the first time now 3 weeks later I feel confident that everything is now working as it should.

AI is great but you still need to know what you are looking at. Best way is to use two different AI models to check themselves out. A whole lot of time and stress could have been avoided by this.

Crazy thing is the only thing I lost was my Pulsing Xenia which was out of control. Looks like my Filefish has now found out that it is food and devoured it all. Even other little patches. Funny thing is last month I was trying to give my Pulsing Zenia away because it was such an overgrown weed.

AI says that it released sugars in the water and the Filefish picked up on it and started to eat it I believe I will probably have to get rid of him because I have other soft corals that I do not want him to eat. Maybe that is why I cannot keep Zoa’s.

My new Blue hammer was just getting acclimated to my take parameters as well as my gold frogspawn. They are both retracted and have not come out for a few weeks now. At night the blue hammer sticks some tentacles out to catch food but my gold frogspawn has not shown any tentacles. I have not seen any brown jelly disease or bailed polyps so I am still holding out hope for them to recover.

On the positive side of things, with all this research and looking things over I discovered why my C02 reactor does not make a difference with my PH. I found out that I connected my skimmer line from my C02 reactor to the air silencer port on my skimmer. I should have bypassed it and plugged it straight to my skimmer pump. When I did this today I could physically feel the suction on the line at the C02 reactor for the first time ever and my PH high today rose to 8.25. First time ever above 8.15. I did have the windows open today but I pulled my fresh air suction line to my C02 reactor back inside from the garage and still saw it climb that high. I believe I have finally made
some good progress and hopefully finally level out the PH swings. It is 7:46pm now dark outside, tank lights have been off for over 2 hours and my PH is still 8.18.

Tomorrow, I will add some pictures and updates on how it goes tonight.
Looks like overnight Kalk DOSing was a success. PH did still swing but for the first time ever my PH did not drop below 8.0. Still have a bit to go to even out the swing. Yesterday PH hit 8.25 at peak and overnight very early this morning at lights on it had dropped down to 8.03. I call that a small win.

I do have a skimmer air recirculating lid for my C02 reactor air supply coming. Should be here in a few days and will add that right away. It will reduce the amount of CO2 absorbing media changes in my reactor by about 4 times as well as increase the stability PH over time because I will be recirculating the same air. I am hoping to keep my PH swings under .10 overnight if that is possible.

Calcium has stabilized as well as my calcium was at 435 ppm yesterday at noon and last night at midnight it was at 424 ppm. At noon today will be another test and I am hoping that it is within that same window.

My DOSing system will have to continue for a couple more days to see where the param’s sit once the All4Reef DOSing stabilizes. As I have read and experienced All4Reef takes about 2 days to see the changes made from amounts of the DOS.

Alkalinity was at 8.58 dkh at 6pm last night, at 12am it dropped to 8.03 dkh. By 6am it was up to 8.11 dkh. I will have to keep tweaking the DOS amounts of my All4Reef and increase my Kalk DOS in very small amounts to reduce as much of the swings as possible with Alkalinity.

Magnesium has been coming down little by little but still remains over 1500 ppm. Yesterday at noon it was at 1535 ppm and at midnight this morning it was at 1534 ppm. We will see where it goes to at noon today.

N03 is a bit harder to depend on my Trident NP testing results. It jumps around too much for my confidence in the consistency of the results. When I test with my Hanna’s it is usually around 7 ppm and my P04 is usually around 0.07 ppm. I do calibrate my NP to my Hanna results but the NP only tests once a day a 10am everyday. Once the calibration is completed the results after the NP is done running the calibration adjustment the readings fault back to where they were before I run the calibration. The new results after the calibration are completed the next test cycle at 10am. NP calibration requires the unit to have not tested within 24 hours before running the calibration mode. So to see the changes effectively it takes roughly 36 hours. Too hard to have confidence in that until more time passes. Also, add into the mix when I bought my last NP reagents from my LFS I did not realize the reagents were already expired by one month when I bought it. I then installed that reagent 1 month later so it is expired by 3 months now after a little over a month of use. I have about 7 or 8 more days of testing before I will change out to a new box of unexpired reagents bought from Saltwateraquarium.com. I anticipate that it will be all over the place again till I finally get it calibrated again.

From now on I will only buy the reagents online from BRS or SWA moving forward so I can be sure the reagents are not expired. I love my LFS so I am not knocking the store, but unless people buy these regularly it is hard for a small retailer to keep these in stock without expiring. I live in a small rural community about a 45 minute drive north of my LFS. The store is not in a major
Metropolitan city. It is in a city of about 70,000 people. It is about 30 minutes north from a major population center with approximately 670,000 people. My little town is 45 minutes North of my LFS and my town has about 10,000 population.

Enough rambling, I will take some pictures and attach next.
Another update for today. I did not get any pictures. The wife and I went to the zoo and aquarium today so I did not get a chance to take the pictures before lights out. Tomorrow I will get some as I am not going anywhere and it is test day.

However, back on my PH roller coaster ride. Today windows were open all day. Temp at about 75f for today with a nice breeze. PH rose to a whopping 8.40 at max today. In my opinion that is great however, I see a couple issues with that.

First issue I see, PH is now starting to get too high. I want to be relatively close to 8.3 but I want it to be steady.

Next my alkalinity dropped down to 7.79 at noon today and back up to 7.84 at 6pm. Issue with this is I need the Kalk to DOS tonight to help keep the alkalinity from dropping overnight which it using does anyways. BUT the big problem now is I have Alk lock function in my program that shuts down the Kalk DOS if PH is > than 8.30. It will not start to DOS again until it drops to < than 8.25.

I did turn on a separate alkalinity DOS O use sometimes to supplement All4Reef but not sure that will make much of an immediate impact. Hoping my alkalinity does not just fall out now. I do realize that small steps is necessary and to take things slow so I will keep my restraining myself from making any drastic steps. Looks like now I will have to incorporate the separate Alkalinity DOS as a backup plan. I do have an alkalinity lock programmed as well but it is for too high and not anything too low. Looks like I will have to create another program to turn on the separate Alkalinity DOS if PH is > than 8.25 and the Kalk DOS is locked out. I will have to make sure the all lock is programmed in the separate all DOS programming.

Wow, crazy turn of events for sure, something I was not expecting. Looks like I will be keeping the windows closed for now. Especially, once I get my skimmer air recirculating for the C02 fresh air suction.
 

TOP 10 Trending Threads

WHAT IS THE LOUDEST PART OF YOUR REEF SYSTEM?

  • Return pump

    Votes: 6 4.3%
  • Powerheads or wavemakers

    Votes: 10 7.2%
  • Protein skimmer

    Votes: 25 18.1%
  • Overflow or drain

    Votes: 47 34.1%
  • Sump vibration or plumbing

    Votes: 1 0.7%
  • Cooling fans

    Votes: 10 7.2%
  • Dosing, ATO, or other equipment

    Votes: 10 7.2%
  • Nothing. My reef is surprisingly quiet

    Votes: 20 14.5%
  • Other (Tell us what makes the noise)

    Votes: 9 6.5%
Back
Top
Home
Post thread…
Market
What's new