75 gasp with a canister! build
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Extremeengineer
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OK, need some opinions or guidance. Here’s what I’m thinking for equip. positioning. FX6 intake to far right, return offset to left of center, directed down to right along back of potential aquascape and towards left front corner. One MP10 on right, front top to create surface movement. One MP10 to left, down and back from center to move water along lower aquascaping. Skimmer to left rear corner, MP10 and half of FX6 return should direct surface flow into it. Redundant heaters along rear beneath aquascape. Aquascape I’m thinking probably high on right, angular valley through middle going front right to back left, triangular shape for both features, if that makes sense. How does this look?
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Extremeengineer
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Up and running! So at the end of the day there was no perfect live rock solution, I chose the LFS wet live rock from 2 different stores, started with 45lb., will need to add probably 25 more. I chose the I know what I am putting in route vs. the ocean route. I will say Eric Cohen and also KP Aquatics were awesome to talk to, very helpful, and I was really on the edge, so in the event I change at some point, I will definitely go with one of them.
Used the Aquavitro Seed as well, tank started producing Nitrates immediately, never had an Ammonia or Nitrite spike, Ammonia has stayed at 0, nitrites never above .05, Nitrates go above 2, but never quite to 5 on Red Sea kit, have done a couple of 20% water changes, brings it back down below 2.
I have a tiny Black Ice clown, like maybe 1", a small lyretail Anthias and a small Coral Beauty. All started eating right away, the Anthias like a pig, and have eaten varied foods. Started with live brine shrimp as that's what they were eating at lfs, also mysis shrimp, Marine One mini pellets, Emerald Entree and frozen brine shrimp.
Used the Aquavitro Seed as well, tank started producing Nitrates immediately, never had an Ammonia or Nitrite spike, Ammonia has stayed at 0, nitrites never above .05, Nitrates go above 2, but never quite to 5 on Red Sea kit, have done a couple of 20% water changes, brings it back down below 2.
I have a tiny Black Ice clown, like maybe 1", a small lyretail Anthias and a small Coral Beauty. All started eating right away, the Anthias like a pig, and have eaten varied foods. Started with live brine shrimp as that's what they were eating at lfs, also mysis shrimp, Marine One mini pellets, Emerald Entree and frozen brine shrimp.
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Extremeengineer
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Notes on the Tunze 9004 skimmer. For anyone using this on a framed tank, be VERY careful if you intend to use the magnet extensions. Tunze tells you to pry up on the magnets to remove them. Even being extremely careful to only apply a perpendicular pulling force, 3 of the 4 miniscule tabs that retain the magnets (and thus the extensions) suffered stress fractures. I mean these things are tiny. As a result the mounting becomes unstable. I contacted Tunze, and they are sending me a new rear housing, which will have new tabs, and I am going to try to make it work without the extensions.
The air control is incredibly touchy, the slightest of movements will make a huge change to the level of the bubbles in the cylinder. If I don't keep the bubble level up around 3/4 of the way up the cylinder I get a very aqueous solution, very quickly. If I keep it at 3/4, I get a more concentrated skim, with my tank relatively new it is never the really gunky stuff yet. I still have microbubbles coming from side seams, around slats on intake and from the back of the unit, Tunze tells me that usually goes away after a few weeks, we'll see.
If the microbubbles continue I may look for another option. I have read here to put the motor cover piece in to make the skimmer surface only, but with the aquarium frame I'd have to drop my water level below where I want it to get a waterfall down into front of unit, so I have not decided what to do yet. After I get the replacement housing I am going to try the motor cover when i dismantle, so I'll see how that impacts things.
The air control is incredibly touchy, the slightest of movements will make a huge change to the level of the bubbles in the cylinder. If I don't keep the bubble level up around 3/4 of the way up the cylinder I get a very aqueous solution, very quickly. If I keep it at 3/4, I get a more concentrated skim, with my tank relatively new it is never the really gunky stuff yet. I still have microbubbles coming from side seams, around slats on intake and from the back of the unit, Tunze tells me that usually goes away after a few weeks, we'll see.
If the microbubbles continue I may look for another option. I have read here to put the motor cover piece in to make the skimmer surface only, but with the aquarium frame I'd have to drop my water level below where I want it to get a waterfall down into front of unit, so I have not decided what to do yet. After I get the replacement housing I am going to try the motor cover when i dismantle, so I'll see how that impacts things.
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