A catalog of my sps

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tnyr5

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Well, proceed with caution if trying this, as I am experimenting and there are definite hurdles to overcome.
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What models are radions and how long do you use them? what is your radion schedule? What size is your reef?
The reef is a Deep Blue 20in cube, approximately 35gal. The Radions are: 2x Gen2 XR30 pro, 1x Gen4 XR15 pro, 1x Gen4 XR30 pro. I have to go in and check the program on ecosmart, but the photoperiod is about 13 hours, from 11am to midnight. The first hour is a ramp-up, and the last hour is evening blues. The insane par levels above only happen for an hour each day, from 3pm to 4pm. For most of the day, they run at a maintenance level that is about 70% as intense(which is still a lot). When they are slacked back, the channels are set like this: The overall intensity of the lights are always 100% when in daylight mode. I simply dim the individual channels to change the color a bit.
All purple channels at 100%, royal blues and windex blues at 70%, cool whites at 100% on gen2 and 70% on gen4, warm whites at 100% on gen4, greens at 70%, reds at 100%.
 

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Thanks for the reply; I had never seen anyone with whites in the 100 radion ... many say they are harmful .. you too keep it that way for many hours a day... how do you manage all this?
 

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A few people actually run their leds at 100% across the board. Sanjay is one of them....


Corey
 
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tnyr5

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Thanks for the reply; I had never seen anyone with whites in the 100 radion ... many say they are harmful .. you too keep it that way for many hours a day... how do you manage all this?
Honestly, I believe (just my opinion) it's a myth that whites are harmful, and that when people claim that turning up the whites messed up their tank, they are not seeing what they think they are seeing.



What are the parameters you are running with par that high?
So here's what I've found to be tricky so far. The amount of photosynthesis going on in that little cube is pretty darn impressive, and it will easily suck the nutrients down to nothing overnight. I expected to have to feed more, but had no idea how much! Nutrients have bottomed out a couple times as I've been getting the hang of it, which killed off/ tip burned a coral here & there. Luckily, I didn't pay for these things, and I can get more at a moment's notice thanks to good friends, so I can experiment with the required detachment.
All that being said, here's where I'm at lately:
Alk: 8.6 to 8.9 - slowly lowering this down to 8 to better handle the new lower nutrient profile of the tank.
Ca: 450 - could be lower, but I don't care much
Mg: 1390
I occasionally check K and Sr and adjust them back into range if they are low. They rarely are.
NO3: running steady at 2-3ppm lately, this is down from about 20ppm before the light upgrade.
PO4: Typically around .02ppm, again, down by nearly a factor of 10.

In order to maintain those nutrient levels, I am feeding:
-pellets 2 to 3x a day, NLspectrum and TDOchromaboost, as much as the fish will eat.
- ON formula 2 flakes 1x a day, again as much as they will eat
- Frozen- 5x a week- a mix of LRS nano reef frenzy and LRS fish eggs. Enough to feed the fish and the lps/yumas. I'd like to feed more frozen, but it seems to drop the phosphates.
- Reef Roids and Benepets Reef Food- 1/8 teaspoon of each, every night after lights out. I highly doubt the corals actually eat it, but it's the only way to keep PO4 above undetectable.

I do not run a refugium or use any sort of PO4 remover.

I keep a small amount of activated carbon in a bag in the external overflow to help with any sort of coral warfare. Probably doesn't do much, but it makes me feel better.



A few people actually run their leds at 100% across the board. Sanjay is one of them....


Corey
Heh, Sanjay is a close personal friend and yes, we do reef the same way.
 

CoralWealth

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Thanks for all of that!

What carbon do you run and how much do you have in that bag? I thought about running some in a bag to help with the yellowing of the water and also if anything gets in the tank.
 

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Honestly, I believe (just my opinion) it's a myth that whites are harmful, and that when people claim that turning up the whites messed up their tank, they are not seeing what they think they are seeing.




So here's what I've found to be tricky so far. The amount of photosynthesis going on in that little cube is pretty darn impressive, and it will easily suck the nutrients down to nothing overnight. I expected to have to feed more, but had no idea how much! Nutrients have bottomed out a couple times as I've been getting the hang of it, which killed off/ tip burned a coral here & there. Luckily, I didn't pay for these things, and I can get more at a moment's notice thanks to good friends, so I can experiment with the required detachment.
All that being said, here's where I'm at lately:
Alk: 8.6 to 8.9 - slowly lowering this down to 8 to better handle the new lower nutrient profile of the tank.
Ca: 450 - could be lower, but I don't care much
Mg: 1390
I occasionally check K and Sr and adjust them back into range if they are low. They rarely are.
NO3: running steady at 2-3ppm lately, this is down from about 20ppm before the light upgrade.
PO4: Typically around .02ppm, again, down by nearly a factor of 10.

In order to maintain those nutrient levels, I am feeding:
-pellets 2 to 3x a day, NLspectrum and TDOchromaboost, as much as the fish will eat.
- ON formula 2 flakes 1x a day, again as much as they will eat
- Frozen- 5x a week- a mix of LRS nano reef frenzy and LRS fish eggs. Enough to feed the fish and the lps/yumas. I'd like to feed more frozen, but it seems to drop the phosphates.
- Reef Roids and Benepets Reef Food- 1/8 teaspoon of each, every night after lights out. I highly doubt the corals actually eat it, but it's the only way to keep PO4 above undetectable.

I do not run a refugium or use any sort of PO4 remover.

I keep a small amount of activated carbon in a bag in the external overflow to help with any sort of coral warfare. Probably doesn't do much, but it makes me feel better.




Heh, Sanjay is a close personal friend and yes, we do reef the same way.

I understand ... but do you have to adapt the corals slowly? who is sanjay?
 
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tnyr5

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I understand ... but do you have to adapt the corals slowly? who is sanjay?

Just do a google search for "Sanjay's Reef"

I suppose you could acclimate them. I don't. If they bleach, I just let them. They come back.

Total intensity or single channel white at 100%?

He runs his radions all channels 100% with 100% intensity.
 

Graffiti Spot

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Awesome little tank! Amazing amount of light over it, I love it. The best led tanks I have seen all ran double the traditional fixtures and used white bulbs as much as the blue, most keep them raised a little more than normal but you seem to have them pretty close to the water. I guess that’s why you don’t run white bulbs at 100% for too long.
 
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Only for an hour or so. For the rest of the time, the blues are slacked back a little.
 

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Hi Tony, what a gorgeous little beauty for a tank you have. I see you are taking a leaf out of Sanjay’s lighting approach with very high PAR value and less blue lighting. Worked perfectly, I might say!
 

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