A few UV Sterilizer questions

[kyley]

Hi All,
I'm planning to get a UV Sterilizer (Jebao to save some money) mainly to help prevent cyano, Ich, etc. My questions:
1. For a 120 gallon tank, should I get 18 or 36 watt?
2. Do I need to run it 24/7, or would 6, 12, or 18 hours per day still get the job done?
3. How much flow should push through the sterilizer? And are there any simple ways to measure the flow? I will be splitting my return pump's flow, so I can't just go by the numbers on the pump's GPH rating...

Thanks!
--Kyle

 

[DLHDesign]

1) The 18W would be under-powered if your goal is to help contain ich populations; you would need the 36W.
2) The more you run it, the more often it's effective. The stuff you are targeting can be in the water column at any point, so running it 24x7 is the best protection. It's not uncommon for people to run them less than that in order to extend the bulb life and save on costs, however.
3) The 35W has a maximum effective flow rate of 145G/hr - pretty slow, in other words. I've found that trying to divert such a small amount of flow into the UV branch is problematical. Much easier to get a small pump that can push out the right amount - or that is slightly over-sized and can be dialed back with a valve. A flow meter is the best way to measure flow, assuming you have a controller already. Otherwise you could measure the water coming out for a period of time (using a temporary soft tubing hookup if needed) and use that to determine and tune the flow rate.

 

[Jrod381]

I also have questions would a uv sterilizer rated for a125-150 gal be to much for a 75gal trying to decide between a green machine and aquanetics in line

 

[FlyPenFly]

Don't bother with a Jebao, all that effort to properly plumb it and run it is just not worth it. Get a Vecton or a quality unit from BRS.

Cheap UV is good for clearing out bacteria blooms but otherwise you're not going to put a 1% dent on Ich or Velvet without a proper high quality unit.

 

[DLHDesign]

As long as you stay at or below the maximum flow rate, there's no such thing as "too much", really*. You'll be spending slightly more for the unit and operating costs, is really the only downside.

(* - I suppose it's possible to have too large of a unit if you really went way overboard - a 50W on a 5gal nano tank or something. But so long as you are close-ish, the slight bit of extra contact time won't do anything to worry about.)

 

[Aardvark1134]

2 things
1) Never get a UV under 30W as it will only tend to clarify no matter how small the aquarium.
2) Typical useful flow rate is 1/6th the max flow rate on most UVs. Too much flow will turn even the best UV into a clarifier. Too little flow will cause the UV bulb to overheat. Definitely read the pdf for your exact brand and model. If it doesn't have one that tells you the different flow rates for different uses buy a different one.

PS> A cheap UV is worthless except to clear your water. Get a good one or don't bother with it.

 

[asw338]

I followed this member's guides from other forum. Copy and paste here. I installed Jebao 3 x STU-75 almost 2 years. I don't know how effective they are but no disease outbreak happen so far and never quarantine all my fishes neither. Bought copper power and Hanna copper checker still keep in shelf unopened.

Note: for marine ich needs 336,000 uWs/cm2

Copy & paste start:

UV sterilizers can serve 3 different functions, each of which require different flow rates. There are two primary measurements involved. One is the contact time, that is how long the water is exposed to the UV - often referred to as the flow rate/watt of UV. The other is the turnover rate, that is how many times per hour the volume of the tank should pass through the UV unit. What one needs to determine is what size gph pump (powerhead or inline with a canister) one needs and what wattage UV bulb should be used.

The 3 potential uses of UV are found in the table below:

Flow Rate & Turnover Rate Table:

UV-C Use ----------------------- Flow Rate (generalized) --------- Turnover Rate

Clarification:
(Green water control; Aquarium/Pond)
Most popular application for ponds------40-50 gph per watt ------ Once per 2-3 hours

Level One Sterilization:
(Bacteria, some Virus)
Most common & recommended
aquarium application --------------------20-30 gph per watt --------1.5 times per hour

Level Two Sterilization:
(Parasites, "Stubborn" Viruses;
Recomend for Swimming Pools) --------8-10 gph per watt ---------Up to 4 times per hour

The best way to explain it is to use an example of 50 gallon tank. If you want clarification you would start with needing to turnover the water once every 2-3 hours. So divide 50 gals by 2 or 3 and it would mean you need a 17 - 25 gph flow . To determine how strong a UV bulb you would need for clarification use 40-50 gph/watt of UV bulb, so divide 17-25 by 40-50gph. This would require a bulb of under one watt- 17 gph divided by 40 to 50 = .425 - .625 watts and 25 gph would = .625 -.50 watts.

Now lets assume you wanted to achieve Level One Sterilization for the 50 gal. tank. This requires a 1.5 times/hour turnover rate which translates into a flow rate of 75 gph. However, now you need to reduce the flow rate to between 20 and 30 gph/watt. Dividing 75 by 20-30 gph means you would need a bulb between 3.75 and 2.5 watts.

Finally, if your goal is Level Two Sterilization then you want a 4 times/hour turnover rate or 200 gph. To get the proper UV wattage to achieve this, divide 200 gph by 8-10 gph/watt or a 20-25 watt UV bulb.

Basically the more things you want to kill, the higher the flow rate needed and the stronger the bulb that should be used.

Using the above guidelines I purchased a 5 watt UV unit to use on a 29 gal. tank to receive wild caught altum angels. It will be powered by an 80-100 gph powerhead or pump. That will result in a turnover of between 2.75 and 3.44 times/hour and give me a flow rate of 80/5w or 16gph and 100/5w or 20gph. That means I am at or over the Level Two (20-30 gph) but under Level Three (8-10 gph), Similarly my turnover rate would be above level One but below Level Two. However, when one accounts for the fact that no tank gets 100% filled and that they also contain decor etc, the actual gallons in my 29 is going to be closer to 25 and my numbers get much closer to Level Two.

Copy & paste end.

Hope this help.

 

[RandyC]

1) The 18W would be under-powered if your goal is to help contain ich populations; you would need the 36W.
2) The more you run it, the more often it's effective. The stuff you are targeting can be in the water column at any point, so running it 24x7 is the best protection. It's not uncommon for people to run them less than that in order to extend the bulb life and save on costs, however.
3) The 35W has a maximum effective flow rate of 145G/hr - pretty slow, in other words. I've found that trying to divert such a small amount of flow into the UV branch is problematical. Much easier to get a small pump that can push out the right amount - or that is slightly over-sized and can be dialed back with a valve. A flow meter is the best way to measure flow, assuming you have a controller already. Otherwise you could measure the water coming out for a period of time (using a temporary soft tubing hookup if needed) and use that to determine and tune the flow rate.

At 145 gph max flow rate, I doubt the UV unit would be much more than a clarifier. At that low of a flow rate and that size tank, you're only getting 1x turnover of the tank water. It's recommended that for a UV sterilizer to be effective for parasites, a 3-5x turnover is needed. Otherwise, what's reproducing in the tank is occuring faster than you're killing them.

 

[kyley]

Thanks for all the feedback so far! I'll probably write a more thorough response later. I should note that using it for Ich and other diseases is secondary for me because I quarantine. I mostly want to avoid cyano outbreaks and such. I'm also setting up a Turbo Aquatics algae scrubber, BTW. I've heard a lot of good things about the Jebaos for the money. And I'm very happy with my Jebao return pump as well. It seems like a UV light is a UV light. Sure, there may be quality differences in the housing and such, but once mounted, it shouldn't be too much of a problem (I think / hope)... That said, what would you recommend if I were to go up one step in price? I've spent a lot on the tank already, and it may be a Jebao or no sterilizer at all. Thanks everyone,
--Kyle

 

[FlyPenFly]

Thanks for all the feedback so far! I'll probably write a more thorough response later. I should note that using it for Ich and other diseases is secondary for me because I quarantine. I mostly want to avoid cyano outbreaks and such. I'm also setting up a Turbo Aquatics algae scrubber, BTW. I've heard a lot of good things about the Jebaos for the money. And I'm very happy with my Jebao return pump as well. It seems like a UV light is a UV light. Sure, there may be quality differences in the housing and such, but once mounted, it shouldn't be too much of a problem (I think / hope)... That said, what would you recommend if I were to go up one step in price? I've spent a lot on the tank already, and it may be a Jebao or no sterilizer at all. Thanks everyone,
--Kyle

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/TMCUVSterilizer.html#vecton6

That.

 

[RandyC]

Check out PentAir Aquatics or Aqua Ultraviolet.

 

[MSB123]

As long as you stay at or below the maximum flow rate, there's no such thing as "too much", really*. You'll be spending slightly more for the unit and operating costs, is really the only downside.

(* - I suppose it's possible to have too large of a unit if you really went way overboard - a 50W on a 5gal nano tank or something. But so long as you are close-ish, the slight bit of extra contact time won't do anything to worry about.)

I have a 240 watt on a 180.

 

[Aardvark1134]

Pentair/Emperor, aqua ultraviolet, and Lifeguard aquatics new line Pro-Max UV Sterilizer Amalgam High Output 3 inch

 

[OnPointCorals]

I have a 240 watt on a 180.

Really? Do you run this 24/7? You're probably paying ~$30 a month to run that UV sterilizer by itself.

 

[Rakie]

Don't get Jebao. Quality control is weak at best -- The quartz sleeve isn't great in the jebao, meaning you need a much stronger light for your needs. But most importantly a friend of mine actually had his Jebao body start MELTING from the UV (UV destroys plastics), it completely wiped out his whole tank, every single coral.

I would never suggest using a Jebao -- If saving money is your goal you're in the wrong hobby. Saving money will bite you in the butt, every. single. time.

 

[kyley]

I would never suggest using a Jebao -- If saving money is your goal you're in the wrong hobby. Saving money will bite you in the butt, every. single. time.

Point made, but a) do you really want this hobby to only be for the rich? And b) I had a quality Sicce pump short out and melt off the cord and killed most of my coral. Anything can fail. That said, I likely won't get the Jebao sterilizer, but I'm very happy with my Jebao return pump. Some inexpensive items are great. Icecap gyre that costs way less, Noopsyche K7 Pro II lights are quite the bargain, etc. Thanks,
--Kyle

 

[Rakie]

Point made, but a) do you really want this hobby to only be for the rich? And b) I had a quality Sicce pump short out and melt off the cord and killed most of my coral. Anything can fail. That said, I likely won't get the Jebao sterilizer, but I'm very happy with my Jebao return pump. Some inexpensive items are great. Icecap gyre that costs way less, Noopsyche K7 Pro II lights are quite the bargain, etc. Thanks,
--Kyle

I'm a broke student -- This hobby is for the rich. You have to buy the best quality if you want stuff to last. I've been reefing since I was in middle school and man, I can't tell you how many items have failed on me.

Also, expensive doesn't mean good. Good means good. Reputation means good. I've had 5 EcoTech pumps crack and break on me, including their replacement wetsides. I would not consider any mp pumps as "good" regardless of cost.

 

[MSB123]

Really? Do you run this 24/7? You're probably paying ~$30 a month to run that UV sterilizer by itself.

No. 12 hours a day.

 

[MSB123]

No. 12 hours a day.

about $19 a month

 

[gobble]

I spent a lot of time reading about these, thinking about one to control ich that may be in my tank. I concluded it probably wouldn't be helpful and would be expensive to buy the proper size and power it. Not worth the $$$. Do it right and quarantine your fish.