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I vote for dinos.Hi All,
Can someone help ID this algae please?
I think it’s cyano but I’m not sure
dino for sure!!! black it out completely for 3 days, boost up po4 and no3 and dosing bt7... once you see any hair algae grow out anywhere in the tank, you are on the way to win to battle! Good luck!!!Hi All,
Can someone help ID this algae please?
I think it’s cyano but I’m not sure
Dinoflagellates species that plague our reef tanks primarily take 2 primary forms. Benthic and water column inhabiting. The benthic forms can appear very similar to cyano infestations.Dinos don't form matts like that
Dinoflagellates species that plague our reef tanks primarily take 2 primary forms. Benthic and water column inhabiting. The benthic forms can appear very similar to cyano infestations.
Yes mate, almost disappears which, from my experience, is cyanoDoes it blow off in big sheets? If so it is cyano but because it stays there with lights off it could just be diatoms if it doesn't blow off in big sheets just smaller particles. But probably cyano as it has bubbles on it.
I say CynobacteriaI vote for dinos.
Thanks for your reply mateheavy case of cyano.
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development
I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.
After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
Yes they can. The strings with bubbles. The color I bet is green under whites. Need a microscope. The pic with the lights out shows the mat has thinned out. Dinos free in the water column. Then accumulate in mats when lights are on.Dinos don't form matts like that
True they can be visible on rocks and sand, but thick opaque mats are not something they form. You can always see the sand underneath the dinos (i.e. the dinos are more of a film rather than a mat)
I just looked back. Dinos. I've had them like that. The long snotty strings full of bubbles that disapate at night but magically reform during the day. Until you see different with your microscope I would treat it like dinos. Water chemistry is the ultimate fix. That along with uv at night when the dinos aren't making snot on your sand will help. It's all a guess everyone is making. My guess is dinos.Sounds like you're thinking of specific dinos like LCA which does look as you describe. Prorocentrum can look very similar to this.
If it's not responding to manual removal and getting your PO4/NO3 in balance, I would gain access to a microscope and post pictures.