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Yes stringy with bubbles in it. My lfs said its dinos. I might get dinoX to treat. I'm doing phos ban in a bag on return pump. Just started phosphate rx by blue life to drop phosphates. Have to test phosphate again to see levels. Ty.Looks stringy, bubbles in it? May be Dino.
Can you give us more info about your tank. Age, parameters, inhabitants, equipment. Can help possibly get a treatment plan.
They are a bummer to deal with for sure.
I've never hear of that. Everyone says to keep nitrates n phosphate minimal, zero if possible that's y u do water changes to drop the nitrate levels. So from the link if I'm reading it correctly, I should be adding nitrates n phosphates?!? I feel like I know nothing now about aquariums. I don't see any programs to follow to treat dinos. I've purchased dinoX b4 reading this. Thoughts?If that is really dinos you need to be ADDING phosphates & nitrates fast. Hard to tell from pictures but stringy snot with bubbles is likely dinos.
If that is dinos, you don't need to tell us your nitrate & phosphates because they are zero/zero. If they dont test zeros then rejoice! I mean it.
If they are 0/0, well welcome to the club nobody wants to join. Start reading the below. 9 weeks in myself. Mostly done.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/d...-tired-of-battling-altogether.293318/page-384
Don't worry, you won't need to read all 7,661 posts in this 384 page thread. The first dozen will lead you where you need to go. I can only speak for one dino species treatment listed (ostreopsis) and can say the protocol works when followed.
Good luck.
Sorry for the confusion in the hobby. And sorry I sent you a link to the last page of the thread, not the first page here:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dinoflagellates-–-are-you-tired-of-battling-altogether.293318/
Yes, we were all taught to keep our tanks "clean". In the past it was challenging to keep clean apparently. In my opinion, nowadays we have many, more powerful tools of nutrient export. Oversize skimmers, Carbon dosing, PO4 strippers (rowaphos, phosban...) to go along with the older methods refugiums, filter socks....
In my very mature (8 yr old rock) system, I have hit low nutrients several times without real trouble. When I saw my acropora going slightly pale, I would turn the skimmer off, or dump a little more food and things corrected smoothly.
In my much newer frag system (14 mos), when my nutrients got low, BAM! Dinos. And when I tried to correct with fish/coral food, they exploded. That system had virtually no algae in it when the breakout began. It was just too clean for too long.
The first step in addressing is to ID the type of dino you have with a super basic microscope -- the $20 variety is fine. Get a picture through the eyepiece with your phone and post it to that thread for ID. There are several active members on that thread that can ID it quickly and without question. The type of dino determines your treatment method. Several/most varieties are treated thusly:
Install a UV sterilizer to the display tank (works better than the sump) 1 watt per 3 gallons of volume
Remove anything that is stripping PO4 or NO3
Dose nitrates and phosphate to reach >10 and >.10 respectively.
Run activated carbon & change it frequently
Dislodge and remove as much dino as possible frequently
Don't do a WC until you get past the dinos
Don't feed aminos!
If you are 2 part dosing, keep track of you alkalinity. Coral growth slows way down, so they are not absorbing ALK ans Cal.
Of all the irony, you will know you are making progress when you can grow some cyano, and even more progress when your first green algae appears. You can gently, smoothly work those out later, once the dino invasion is well past. Good luck.