Alkalinity swing? Ready for acros?

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So I removed the Chemi-Pure Blue this past Saturday after a water change, and after 48 hours, the phosphate went up to .23 (using Hanna Phosphate Checker). Coincidentally, I noticed the algae fuzz on the sandbed has improved. The challenge is how to get it down a bit without going back to the chemical filtration.

dKH also dropped .06 in two days.

Going to continue to monitor both. If dKH is indeed dropping .03 per day, and increasing to X after a small water change, that should give me a starting point on how much to dose. Is there a dKH calculator out there?
 
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Determined that Alk goes from about 10.4 after a water change to a low of about 9.5 after one week, no dosing.

Which alkalinity supplement can anyone recommend for manual dosing? Should I does daily, or let it go down to the high 9's during mid-week and then dose?
 

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Determined that Alk goes from about 10.4 after a water change to a low of about 9.5 after one week, no dosing.

Which alkalinity supplement can anyone recommend for manual dosing? Should I does daily, or let it go down to the high 9's during mid-week and then dose?
Dose daily to compensate the little consumption

this will also help minimize fluctuations and swings
 

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Thanks for all of the helpful advice, everyone.

I think I might drop the water change to 20% to produce no more than a .5 to .6 change in alk.

The alternative is to change salt from Red Sea Pro to something else, to get down to more NSW levels, and then just dose to maintain that number.
Red sea pro is an excellent salt. It's your low nutrients that are the issue. It isn't recommended to run a tank at double 0's - 0 nitrate 0 phosphate. Corals use these for colour, nutrition, and growth when they are in good amounts. That's the bigger issue. And 10% water change is more than enough on a small tank. Stability is the key. Ripping out the biology every water change for what is essentially fresh, sterile water into a tank that has biology is just not good.
 
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Red sea pro is an excellent salt. It's your low nutrients that are the issue. It isn't recommended to run a tank at double 0's - 0 nitrate 0 phosphate. Corals use these for colour, nutrition, and growth when they are in good amounts. That's the bigger issue. And 10% water change is more than enough on a small tank. Stability is the key. Ripping out the biology every water change for what is essentially fresh, sterile water into a tank that has biology is just not good.

I'm realizing that nutrients are important. I'm still drawing from past experience of having a FOWLR and the tendency to export nutrients as much as possible. I've started feeding more and my PO4 has been in the .1 to .15 range.

I may have to reduce water changes to 10% to keep stability, but maybe sterile is not the word I would use. The sand bed and rock are full of detritus.
 
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