Ammonia levels

[Rmckoy]

I will retest just Incase. But if it is still low what would you recommend I do to fix it?

I don’t think I would do Anything to fix it
For that … I haven’t tested ph in years .

I have a patio door beside the tank that’s open many times to let the dog out
Plus having cheato in the sump
Also have a beast external skimmer

I rarely ever do water changes and only maintain Alk and cal by dosing 2 part

 

[Crystal08]

H1781 is the lr nitrate kit I have and it’s a huge pain …..

First and most confusing part is you need to know your nitrate level of greater than it less than 5 ppm to choose which test method you need to do .
One method and can’t remember which one requires a fresh batch of saltwater with known zero nitrates for a step of the test which seams silly . Why would I want to test if I knew .
needless to say, I had to wipe the dust off the kit before taking a picture of it .

I looked online to see what the difference was on the test. It said most normal newish tanks it’s best to do the HR first. It was 5.3. So i guess that’s in normal range. The calcium I’m not sure I did accurately

 

[Crystal08]

I don’t think I would do Anything to fix it
For that … I haven’t tested ph in years .

I have a patio door beside the tank that’s open many times to let the dog out
Plus having cheato in the sump
Also have a beast external skimmer

I rarely ever do water changes and only maintain Alk and cal by dosing 2 part

I retested and got 7.7 also I have reed fusion 1 and 2 but I don’t know when to use it or not

 

[Rmckoy]

I retested and got 7.7 also I have reed fusion 1 and 2 but I don’t know when to use it or not

I don’t think 7.7 for ph is bad
It’s still a new system ?

 

[Rmckoy]

I looked online to see what the difference was on the test. It said most normal newish tanks it’s best to do the HR first. It was 5.3. So i guess that’s in normal range. The calcium I’m not sure I did accurately

5ppm for nitrates is where mine is .
actually … I struggle to keep 5ppm

for years we struggle to get rid of them . And all of a sudden they’re gone and next to impossible to keep .

my system constantly tests with very low nitrates but elevated phosphates having to dose calcium nitrate and adding rowaphos

Alk and cal are always the exact same .
7.5dkh and 425ppm

 

[Crystal08]

I don’t think 7.7 for ph is bad
It’s still a new system ?

About 3 months for this tank. It was an upgrade from a 13.5 gallon tank we had going 6 months or so

 

[Crystal08]

5ppm for nitrates is where mine is .
actually … I struggle to keep 5ppm

for years we struggle to get rid of them . And all of a sudden they’re gone and next to impossible to keep .

my system constantly tests with very low nitrates but elevated phosphates having to dose calcium nitrate and adding rowaphos

Alk and cal are always the exact same .
7.5dkh and 425ppm

My calcium was 507 and alkalinity 9.6

 

[Rmckoy]

About 3 months for this tank. It was an upgrade from a 13.5 gallon tank we had going 6 months or so

Would you consider it a new system or believe it’s matured past the new tank stage ?

 

[Rmckoy]

My calcium was 507 and alkalinity 9.6

It would depend on the salt you’re using

 

[vanguard]

I will retest just Incase. But if it is still low what would you recommend I do to fix it?

Consider recalibrating too. These things go out of adjustment and need recalibration more often than you might guess. I'm not that familiar with your tester but other hanna testers recalibrate with every use so maybe you're fine.


I stress that because your calcium and alk aren't low so I'm a little surprised your PH is. Chasing a higher PH when it's just a bad test result can lead to problems that you could have avoided.

Having said all that, I'd probably use sodium carbonate from BRS or your LFS. It will raise your alk so keep that under 11. Higher alk will cause faster coral skeleton growth. That's all fun and games until the skeleton outgrows the flesh and you're hitting it with amino acids in a diving catch. :)

 

[Crystal08]

It would depend on the salt you’re using

I’ve been buying water from the fish store. Not sure what salt they use.

 

[Crystal08]

Would you consider it a new system or believe it’s matured past the new tank stage ?

I guess I’d still say it’s new ‍

 

[Crystal08]

I guess I’d still say it’s new ‍

Consider recalibrating too. These things go out of adjustment and need recalibration more often than you might guess. I'm not that familiar with your tester but other hanna testers recalibrate with every use so maybe you're fine.


I stress that because your calcium and alk aren't low so I'm a little surprised your PH is. Chasing a higher PH when it's just a bad test result can lead to problems that you could have avoided.

Having said all that, I'd probably use sodium carbonate from BRS or your LFS. It will raise your alk so keep that under 11. Higher alk will cause faster coral skeleton growth. That's all fun and games until the skeleton outgrows the flesh and you're hitting it with amino acids in a diving catch. :)

The machine walks me though each step and there’s a part where you have to zero it out. So I think it’s calibrated ok. I guess I’m just torn between trying to fix the ph or just leaving it alone. I’m scared trying to fix it will cause me more problems. I’m just winging this whole process lol

 

[Rmckoy]

The machine walks me though each step and there’s a part where you have to zero it out. So I think it’s calibrated ok. I guess I’m just torn between trying to fix the ph or just leaving it alone. I’m scared trying to fix it will cause me more problems. I’m just winging this whole process lol

Until you fully understand . It’s completely ok being left alone . As I said I haven’t tested ph in who knows how long .
But ….. I will strongly suggest getting a rodi system to mix your own water .

it’s not known if they use rodi water , if they change the filters regularly , what salt , or if they use the same salt every time.
Remember not all are the same but essentially they’re salesmen why not control the main part of your system
You’re already invested this far , no sense stopping now ha ha ….

 

[Crystal08]

Until you fully understand . It’s completely ok being left alone . As I said I haven’t tested ph in who knows how long .
But ….. I will strongly suggest getting a rodi system to mix your own water .

it’s not known if they use rodi water , if they change the filters regularly , what salt , or if they use the same salt every time.
Remember not all are the same but essentially they’re salesmen why not control the main part of your system
You’re already invested this far , no sense stopping now ha ha ….

I have an RODI system already. What salt do you recommend? I have a few box’s of instant ocean

 

[Rmckoy]

I have an RODI system already. What salt do you recommend? I have a few box’s of instant ocean

I have used io purple bucket before many years ago .
but I have been using Aquavitro salinity for years now .
It works for me .
and this is partially where you need yo decide what you want . And what salt will get you there

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Hello I just bought a Hanna marine master multiparameter and test my ammonia level. It says 0.09. Should I be alarmed? I fed them about 2 hours ago or so.

Don't test for ammonia right after feeding...

 

[MJ83]

I feel a bit better after reading this. I always read ammo on my Hanna marine master.
When it read over 0.29 I actually did have something going on… I stirred up sump debris which blew through the tank. Think it put the tank into a mini cycle as LFS saw nitrite on my test which does not normally show. Still testing at 87ppb on the Hanna, it’s slowly decreasing. I’ve been testing daily and still getting 0.09-0.12 NH3. Ammo badge looks ok and everything happy. I’ve been adding stability and live bacteria and added extra media.
Before this I always got readings 0.06-0.1 (LFS always 0 on spin touch) for NH3.
I got the tester because I didn’t want to compare colours but I’m still second guessing myself.

 

[commod0re]

Yeah everything seems good. The BTA is bubbled up too. The large feather duster is inside on the picture but it’s been out all day. I guess I’m just trying to make sure that any test results below 0.1 is ok?

You’re stuck on numbers, when everyone is telling you that the important thing is your tank is already long since cycled and everything in it is fine

The proof in the pudding is in the eating, after all

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Ammonia is far less toxic than most people think. Anything 0.2 ppm and lower is not any concern. It takes more than 10 ppm to kill a fish, and many of us dose ammonia at 0.1 ppm one or more times a day. :)

https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/ammonia-is-our-friend.1062/