An additive and system made in Japan trendy now

[JUNICHI YAMASAKI]

I changed a layout.
I put a 30cm water tank in a 45cm water tank.
A terrarium using a mangrove and the seaweed.

 

[JUNICHI YAMASAKI]

There is no skimmer.
A sponge anaerobic in an outside filter (EHIM2217).

 

[JUNICHI YAMASAKI]

Japanese ZENI-NAIYO system.
An additive of BEPIN-SANGO.
I spout from a base. Go & stops for three hours.

1200X600X600
ATI 54WX8

 

[JUNICHI YAMASAKI]

It is a 120cm water tank of Mr. Japanese yamasaki. ZENI-NAIYO system.
I manage the quality of the water with a PC.

The water tank passes for four years.

Indonesian culture coral grew up



Gyre XF250 of 3 Prime HD x Maxspect company of 120 45 40 water tank Innovative Marine company x x Aquaillumination company

Parameter
Salinity1.025-1.026, PH 8.0-8.4, before and after KH=7.5, calcium = around 425, magnesium = around 1,300, nitric = 0.1, phosphorus acid = 0.02


It is Y resident in Australia. He is BEPIN-SAGO user, too.

 

[JUNICHI YAMASAKI]

用意する物
□プラスチック縛弾　□吸盤2つ　□ホース　細いのと太いの　□ペットボトル500mn（リーフチャージ用）　□エアーポンプ　□ウッドストーン
Thing to prepare
□The □ plastic bottle 500mn □ air pump □ Wood stone that + where two hot bond □ sucker □ hoses are thin is big



ペットボトルの底をコンロで熱を加えたカッターで切断します。
I cut the bottom of the plastic bottle with a cutter.



キャップもエアーホース（細）と排水ホース（太）を通るように2箇所穴を開けます。
Two places make a hole in the cap to go along an air hose (Ｓ) and the drainage hose (Ｌ).



排水用の太いホースはプラスチック縛弾で封鎖します。エアー用は動かせるように穴に通すだけにします。
Bury the big hose for drainage in bond; do. To be able to move the air use; a hole.



ホームセンターで100円で購入した吸盤の穴にプラスチック縛弾を入れて再度お湯に漬けてから。
It is fixed in hot bond



ペットボトルに付けます。プラスチック縛弾はプラスチック等には接着力が強いので瞬間接着剤は要りません。



綺麗にしかも強く接着が出来ます。お湯ですがホットボンドみたいですね。



完成しました。シンプル・イズ・ベストですね。



では玄関水槽へ取り付けました。



透明のペットボトルに白いキャップと透明なホースのみで見た目の悪いシリコンなど接着剤の痕がないのでスッキリしました。カップは無く排水ホースで有機物を除去します。



水位の調整は吸盤の上下で行います。

 

[reefwiser]

Nice DIY made one like this 30 years ago.

 

[JUNICHI YAMASAKI]

(#^.^#)

 

[JUNICHI YAMASAKI]

Nice DIY made one like this 30 years ago.

• It is splendid for 30 years. I want to see a work. Thank you very much for your advice.

 

[JUNICHI YAMASAKI]

またまたヤフオクの安っすいLEDを買ってしまいました。翌日納品、激安、保証付きで故障や素子の入れ換えも1日程度で済むようです。電源はPSEを取れているようなのでヤフオクとは言え国内代理店レベルだと思います。ただWi-Fiとかリモートが無いのでスポットLEDに近いアナログチックなシステムLEDでありボディのqualityを含め調光機能が優れているラディオンやアトランティックと別物だと思って下さい。



今回は320Wタイプを購入しました。総額(送料、税込)で37.000円程度です。160Wタイプなら20.000円くらいです。予算があればラディオンプロをお勧めしますが1台に10万円は中々払えん。





両チャンネルのブルー系４６個とホワイト系２個を外してシアン(495nm)１２個アイスブルー(470nm)１２個バイオレット(420nm)１２個　ＵＶ(395nm)１２個にしたフルスペクトル仕様だそうです。販売者さんが48個も素子を入れ換えてくれたにも関わらず翌日発送と言う神対応です。外したLED素子も付いていました。







ではハイブリッド化にします。買ったばっかりのKZ39W×10ですが真ん中の4本を抜いてLEDを合体させます。問題は安定器を移動させないと上手く両サイドが点かなくなるところです。安定器1つで数本制御していますから。





T5の薄いアルミ放熱板をくり貫いてシステムLEDを上に載せる事にしました。初めはLEDごと嵌め込もうと思っていたのですが、思っていたよりも重量がありアクリルアームで開閉が出来なくなる事から合体は止めます。また埋め込むと熱害の心配もありますので。





電動グラインダーで切断。LEDを乗せるので両サイドの耳を三センチ残します。ATIだと二枚抜く必要がありしかも安定器と電動ファンの移動が大変になるでしょう。KZやアクアギフトのT5なら簡単に出来ます。

奥行き60センチですが20センチ切断したので40センチがT5になり20センチがLEDになります。




上にLEDを載せて完成～♪T5を開閉する際には重いLEDを先に下ろします。ゼンスイのようにもっと薄いシステムLEDだと凸凹にならなかったでしょう。




載せていてもそんなに目に付かないのでメイン灯具のみに見えてスッキリとしています。スポットLEDはごちゃごちゃして好きではない。車のシュガライターのソケット電源もごちゃごちゃと蛸足に使う人が居ますが私は使わないし基本的に車内に物は置かない。





LEDが20センチでT5が60センチ。T5管が6本もあるので出力的に半々です。LEDは散光のプラズマレンズを使用しているので波長は混ざりやすいと思います。




フルパワーでw点灯(o･｀Д´･o)!! 　うぁ明るくなりました。今まで曇りだったようです。KZ(国内仕様)とアクアギフトのT5はATIより照度が落ちますからね。



Canon-G11で撮影しました。高性能のデジカメなので目視した感じと変わりません。



I buried LED in T5 (39WX10) of KZ.
I took off four pipes of 39W.
I put LED of 320W on the top.

 

[JUNICHI YAMASAKI]

Create a layout with cement and coral rock.



To paint.



Pink, brown, dark brown, paint with black.



Filtration equipment is 250 x 200 x 200 mm.



Put aquarium in front.



Put the calcium sand (2 mm).External filter ( EHIM2217)



Fix with coral to glue.



Skimmer SEAHOG



Water falls behind.



Water comes and goes back and forth.

 

[Slicktop]

Awesome tanks and color!

 

[JUNICHI YAMASAKI]

Awesome tanks and color!

Thank you₍₍ ( ๑॔˃̶◡ ˂̶๑॓)◞♡

 

[JUNICHI YAMASAKI]

I use the dry rock of the production center of Philippines. It is fixed with cement. The back is 200-350mm at 350mm 1,000mm, length width. I image a Japanese bonsai.
















Dry Locke gains bacteria in a half year.

 

[JUNICHI YAMASAKI]

I changed into LED from 1200X600X600mm (ATI-54WX8) + 900X450X450mm (ATI-39WX8). The LED is one 300W with a product made in China. Very cheap.

Condition declined replacing with LED at the start. I am well-conditioned now.





Blue, natural white, warm white, cyan, UV enter.
PAR is 600 - 700600μmolS-1m-2. 100% (eight hours) of blue channel white channel 50-60 (six hours)



Channel 1 is 51 LED
•Blue 450nm x 30
•Sky-blue 470nm x 13
•Violet 420nm x 8

Channel 2 is 48 LED
•White 3500K x 16
•Natural white 7500k x 12
•White 12000k x 12
•Green 520nm x 4
•Super red 660nm x 4


The Indonesian coral has good T5. The Australian coral has good LED.
The LED opens 40 centimeters from the surface of the water to a light.

 

[JUNICHI YAMASAKI]

I study the DINOS removal. I observe it with a microscope every day.
I put oxydol (5% of oxygenated water) in breeding water 100L 5 ml.
I continue it for one week every 24 hours. I gradually disappeared when I attached a seaweed tank (to breeding water 100L 5 ml). Strong light is necessary for seaweed.
The seaweed prevents DINOS.
If light is strong, DINOS increases.
When DINOS changes the right field (T5 → LED), it occurs.
DINOS rarely occurs in T5.

 

[Ashish Patel]

Interesting observation about the Dino under LED then T5. My current tank uses LED and this is the first time I have had Dinos.
My previous tanks that ran on Metal halide, T5 and Power compacts never recall seeing dinos. Also, both tanks where started with dryrock and few pieces of Liverock. I have been in the hobby awhile and don't believe Dinos was a problem back in the day so could be a move to all LED tanks aswell as 100% dryrock tanks. Lack of microfauna and bio diversity plays a major factor but maybe LED do else well.

 

[JUNICHI YAMASAKI]

Interesting observation about the Dino under LED then T5. My current tank uses LED and this is the first time I have had Dinos.
My previous tanks that ran on Metal halide, T5 and Power compacts never recall seeing dinos. Also, both tanks where started with dryrock and few pieces of Liverock. I have been in the hobby awhile and don't believe Dinos was a problem back in the day so could be a move to all LED tanks aswell as 100% dryrock tanks. Lack of microfauna and bio diversity plays a major factor but maybe LED do else well.

I do not watch Dinos with T5 and the live lock.
Dinos occurs with LED of strong light and a dry lock.
Dinos produces even LED by a live lock and seaweed tank a little.

 

[Ashish Patel]

My dinos came twice when nutrients where low range and I let natural sunlight hit the reef. Anytime my nutrient export was overly aggressive dinos would come. They where easy solution for me I just increased flow to my UV, overfed, and blew them of into the water colum, next day gone. Green slime is another story I have yellow sponge so when they first started growing I thought they where sponges so let them grow out. Now I have Green slime growing behind my rockwork and in darker areas but still I can't seem to get rid of it. Manual removal is useless for green slime.. Any experience and solution you have with Green slime? Please don't say Chemi-clean

 

[JUNICHI YAMASAKI]

My dinos came twice when nutrients where low range and I let natural sunlight hit the reef. Anytime my nutrient export was overly aggressive dinos would come. They where easy solution for me I just increased flow to my UV, overfed, and blew them of into the water colum, next day gone. Green slime is another story I have yellow sponge so when they first started growing I thought they where sponges so let them grow out. Now I have Green slime growing behind my rockwork and in darker areas but still I can't seem to get rid of it. Manual removal is useless for green slime.. Any experience and solution you have with Green slime? Please don't say Chemi-clean

Chemi-clean had no effect. Oxydol (hydrogen peroxide solution) was effective.
The UV of the LED increased the DINOS. T5 did not come out because there is no UV.
DINOS sees well in the sea tide pool. I like nutrients and intense light and UV.
Please paste the image of green bacteria. Why do not you eat shellfish? Hert herbs? Enelardo Green Club Is your company?

 

[JUNICHI YAMASAKI]

120水槽も90水槽もヤフオクですが2種類の90度レンズを試しましたがレンズが放射角が鋭く素子のバラツキ
がネックです。

The LED element of 3W is strong. I make gentle light like a fluorescent lamp (T5).





ライトディフィーザーを製作します。ホームセンターでポリスチレンシートの2mm（90ｃｍＸ45ｃｍで2000円）とマグネット（350円）を購入。ポンドで止めるだけです。ＬＥＤの本体は鉄なので。
I produce an illumination filter. I purchase 2mm (in 90cmX45cm 2,000 yen) and the magnet (350 yen) of the polystyrene sheet in a home center. Stop for pound. The main body of the LED is iron.



目的は直射の緩和です。蛍光灯に近つけようと。
30% of illumination falls.



初めは無しで計ります。設定は青チャンネル100％で白チャンネル50％です。
There is no it and measures it at the start. The setting is 50% of white channels with 100% of blue channels.



ライトの中央の値の光合成有効放射量（PAR）は688μmolS-1m-2です。
The quantity of photosynthetically active radiation of the central value of the light (PAR) is 688μmolS-1m-2.




右は635μmolS-1m-2。
The right is 635μmolS-1m-2



中央手前は612μmolS-1m-2。
The center this side is 612μmolS-1m-2.



手前の左は589μmolS-1m-2。
The left of this side is 589μmolS-1m-2.




マグネットでワンタッチ式のライトディフィーザーを装着。右端10センチ足りなかったのはご愛嬌で。
I attach one-touch in a magnet.



600から400とは34％ダウン。つまり3Ｗ駆動のＬＥＤがHydraの2W駆動になるような感じです。左が404μmolS-1m-2。
34% fall with 400 from 600. In other words it is the feeling that LED of the 3W drive is driven 2W of Hydra. The left is 404μmolS-1m-2.



中央が438μmolS-1m-2。（白50％、青100）水面下（LEDとの距離35センチ）でこれくらいの光エネルギー（400~700nm）があればミドリイシの成長と色揚げは十分可能。
The center is 438μmolS-1m-2. (50% of white, blue 100) growth and the color of the elkhorn coral are possible enough by light energy (400~700nm) like this in surface of the water bottom (35 centimeters of distance with the LED).



ライトディフィーザーの波板の効果で素子が混ざった感はあります。
An element was mixed by the effect of the corrugated plastic sheet



水面下500μmolS-1m-2だと。
Surface of the water lower 500μmolS-1m-2.



珊瑚の水面20ｃｍ付近ですと310μmolS-1m-2になります。これくらいの光量が良さそうです。
I do surface of the water around 20cm 310μmolS-1m-2 of the coral. Light quantity is good.







ポリプの咲きは健康のバロメーターになるので注意深く(σ*´∀｀)は観察します。