OP
OP
InvaderJim
Chillin
Here are the par readings.
Another struggling with acros post
- Thread starter InvaderJim
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Maybe after running carbon a little longer and a few water changes get 2 of the same frags, maybe A. tortuosa (eg Cali tort) or A. austera (eg WWC yellow tip stag) as I have found them very hardy early in a reef’s maturation. Keep 1 on the frag rack then play around with the 2nd one at gradually increasing par along the rock structure. That way you can compare it to the one on the frag rack where you say they seem to do well.
Your system looks good and ready to go. Sometimes all you can do is wait a little longer then try again.
Your system looks good and ready to go. Sometimes all you can do is wait a little longer then try again.
OP
OP
InvaderJim
Chillin
This is a really great idea. I'm going to try it out after a couple more water changes like you suggested.
OP
OP
InvaderJim
Chillin
Just wanted to give an update on some observations I've made in the tank recently.
So the frag rack is getting pretty heavy flow from the mp40 running along the backside of the tank as it wraps around. The frags on there have great polyp extension, even one I moved back from the rocks to the rack is showing PE. There is also a monti spongodes down stream from the the mp40 next to the frag rack getting some pretty direct flow and is easily the best looking coral in the tank. I'm starting to think my issues are flow related.
So the frag rack is getting pretty heavy flow from the mp40 running along the backside of the tank as it wraps around. The frags on there have great polyp extension, even one I moved back from the rocks to the rack is showing PE. There is also a monti spongodes down stream from the the mp40 next to the frag rack getting some pretty direct flow and is easily the best looking coral in the tank. I'm starting to think my issues are flow related.
OP
OP
InvaderJim
Chillin
Picked up a cheap jebao on Black Friday I’m gonna throw in there right between the other two and see what happens.
OP
OP
InvaderJim
Chillin
This is just becoming documentation of my struggles lol. Sadly I don't think flow was my only issue. Lost two more milli frags. Trying to increase phosphates to .1 to see if I have anymore luck
TX_Punisher
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Probably not the sole issue, but wanTed to ask if you’re still running the Clarisea?
OP
OP
InvaderJim
Chillin
Yes I'm still using it, It's only been on the tank a few months. I had the same issues before I was running it though.
OP
OP
InvaderJim
Chillin
Slowly increasing flow but still too early to tell if it’s helping. Debating adding a gyre for more flow. I have an unknown acro with good PE that seems to be doing well, as well as my spongodes which looks great. But on the other hand my setosa is losing tissue.
I believe the sepora 80 gallon is 18” high if I recall. Aquascaping an 18” tall tank for SPS is tough to leave enough room up on the rock work for acro growth. I realize it’s “recommended” to put a t5 fixture at the height you have it but new frags on top of rocks that are 6” from the surface are pretty dang close to that light source.
At a tank of 24” width, I’m guessing your MP40’s may be creating more flow around the back and front of the aquascape and not optimal at the top. High light with low flow is a bad combination. Before you go doing 10 things at once, I’d try lifting the fixture to about 18”. I have an 8 bulb ati fixture over a 60x30x18” tank and it’s about 20” off the water. That seems to be the sweet spot for my acros in both spread and intensity. At first I’d have thought to run some carbon too but after hearing your frags do well on the rack I don’t think allelopathy is at play. Sounds like the frags down lower in the tank on the rack are getting optimal flow and light and the ones at the top are simply too close.
What @njreefkeeper said 
A simple calculation that I have used forever with ati fixtures. Take a 24" deep tank, place the lamps between 8-10" and you will be able to successfully grow acros from the top to the sand bed. So, if your tank is only is 18" high, add 6" to the lamp mounting height. I would guess 14"-16" would be great with healthy acros, what njreefkeeper said would be a great starting point at 18". If the acros are struggling, lower light/energy might force them to stretch out and kick start growth.
Maybe we are dealing with certain issues that are shutting down the coral, this might be adding to others. I would hand dose main minerals and check alk daily at the same time to determine usage. I would seize adding any trace minerals or aminos if doing so. Feed the fish, skim to match input, and allow nutrients to simply settle where they settle. Test kits can be useful, but can also lead you down the rabbit hole of neverending chasing. That said, use nightime PE to your advantage. If your polyps are extending, I find Oyster eggs to be a great supplement for acros. The lipids and fatty acids are appreciated by many mouths in the tank.
A simple calculation that I have used forever with ati fixtures. Take a 24" deep tank, place the lamps between 8-10" and you will be able to successfully grow acros from the top to the sand bed. So, if your tank is only is 18" high, add 6" to the lamp mounting height. I would guess 14"-16" would be great with healthy acros, what njreefkeeper said would be a great starting point at 18". If the acros are struggling, lower light/energy might force them to stretch out and kick start growth.
Maybe we are dealing with certain issues that are shutting down the coral, this might be adding to others. I would hand dose main minerals and check alk daily at the same time to determine usage. I would seize adding any trace minerals or aminos if doing so. Feed the fish, skim to match input, and allow nutrients to simply settle where they settle. Test kits can be useful, but can also lead you down the rabbit hole of neverending chasing. That said, use nightime PE to your advantage. If your polyps are extending, I find Oyster eggs to be a great supplement for acros. The lipids and fatty acids are appreciated by many mouths in the tank.
OP
OP
InvaderJim
Chillin
It's actually even shorter than that, they are 16" tall (I had to look it up). I can definitely see what you mean about the MP40s though. It does seem like a lot of the flow ends up at the front of the tank. I never thought about raising the lights but I will go ahead and do that and see what happens.
I wish I would have found that calculation months ago! I already went and raised the lights and I'm going to follow the rest of your advice and see if I can get them growing. I do agree it could likely be a combination of things stalling them out it's just been hard to pinpoint. The fact that you both agreed on raising the lights makes me feel like this is something I easily overlooked.What @njreefkeeper said
A simple calculation that I have used forever with ati fixtures. Take a 24" deep tank, place the lamps between 8-10" and you will be able to successfully grow acros from the top to the sand bed. So, if your tank is only is 18" high, add 6" to the lamp mounting height. I would guess 14"-16" would be great with healthy acros, what njreefkeeper said would be a great starting point at 18". If the acros are struggling, lower light/energy might force them to stretch out and kick start growth.
Maybe we are dealing with certain issues that are shutting down the coral, this might be adding to others. I would hand dose main minerals and check alk daily at the same time to determine usage. I would seize adding any trace minerals or aminos if doing so. Feed the fish, skim to match input, and allow nutrients to simply settle where they settle. Test kits can be useful, but can also lead you down the rabbit hole of neverending chasing. That said, use nightime PE to your advantage. If your polyps are extending, I find Oyster eggs to be a great supplement for acros. The lipids and fatty acids are appreciated by many mouths in the tank.
thepotoo
Active Member
If the acros on the frag rack are doing well, why not leave them there? Wait until they have a couple branches, then frag a branch and move it down to the rocks. This will rule out water chemistry stuff (which seems fine) from critters or bacteria on the rocks messing with frags, and it'll also keep you from needing to constantly buy new frags.
This is a pretty interesting thread because you're clearly doing everything right but still having issues.
This is a pretty interesting thread because you're clearly doing everything right but still having issues.
OP
OP
InvaderJim
Chillin
That’s what has been most frustrating for me. I feel like I’m doing everything right but not getting the results. While not ALL of the frags on the frag rack have done great most of them looked good until I moved them. I actually have 2 of the same frags on my rack right now and a third on the rocks. All 3 have good pe, but I feel like the one on the rocks may just die off any day.
I raised my lights so I’m going to see if that changes anything. So far I haven’t noticed the corals acting any different
thepotoo
Active Member
The PAR readings you posted above are from before you moved your lights, right? If so, those look totally fine, and I don't see that changing the lights will do anything besides [slightly] stressing out your corals.
Have you taken some macro pictures to check for red bugs? Long shot, but I can't see those with my naked eye, only with a macro lens. They could be on the rocks but (since they can't swim and don't crawl very far) not on the frag rack.
Have you taken some macro pictures to check for red bugs? Long shot, but I can't see those with my naked eye, only with a macro lens. They could be on the rocks but (since they can't swim and don't crawl very far) not on the frag rack.
OP
OP
InvaderJim
Chillin
Yes that was before moving my lights. I haven't checked for red bugs, but I guess it's worth looking into.
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