Are all acros loving led? Are coral enduring less par from led than T5/halides?

[Superlightman]

Hello,
Since I went from hybrid led(radion g5/ t5 ) to full led (radion g5/led bars) some months ago ,some acroporas are fine and grow well, for other, or they not grow, or they die, or they bleach.
Did you experience also that some aren't happy with leds when some thrives?
I have also the feel that under t5/halides you can keep the paar higher,when with the led, you have to go more down? I have the feel that 300 paar led are stronger for corals than 300 from another light?
Wich with par levels have you the most success?

 

[Bpb]

When I switched from metal halides to leds I didn’t lose any acros or experience any slow down in growth. Those things CAN happen if the tank isn’t acclimated correctly, but the LEDs themselves will not do that by virtue of being leds

 

[J1a]

Well, the spectrum of LED is probably different from your t5, so that is that.

I have been keeping my acros under LED. Highest acro gets about 1.5k PAR while average PAR is 850.

So i would say your problem is probably with acclimatization.

 

[Superlightman]

Well, the spectrum of LED is probably different from your t5, so that is that.

I have been keeping my acros under LED. Highest acro gets about 1.5k PAR while average PAR is 850.

So i would say your problem is probably with acclimatization.

Yes but is some months now, and they were already under led before,i just took of the t5 and put led bars instead and keeped the same par numbers.
1500-850 par really? That is very high, i'm between 400-250.

 

[J1a]

Yes but is some months now, and they were already under led before,i just took of the t5 and put led bars instead and keeped the same par numbers.
1500-850 par really? That is very high, i'm between 400-250.

Well, I guess sometimes acros are grumpy like that.

850 is the average. I do have quite a few acros lower, at about 300 Par or so.

I know it's very high, but so far, no complains with growth and color.

 

[Superlightman]

Well, I guess sometimes acros are grumpy like that.

850 is the average. I do have quite a few acros lower, at about 300 Par or so.

I know it's very high, but so far, no complains with growth and color.

You acclimate them slowly or not to such intensity?I scare to burn my lps going so high

 

[J1a]

You acclimate them slowly or not to such intensity?I scare to burn my lps going so high

To be honest, I just slap the new corals directly where I want them. Some corals came from 300 PAR aquariums, and go straight to 900 PAR positions.

Some will struggle a bit, but most will just adapt and recover.

My LPS gets 250-300 PAR.

 

[Superlightman]

To be honest, I just slap the new corals directly where I want them. Some corals came from 300 PAR aquariums, and go straight to 900 PAR positions.

Some will struggle a bit, but most will just adapt and recover.

My LPS gets 250-300 PAR.

You use red light? Or you turn it if completly?

 

[J1a]

You use red light? Or you turn it if completly?

There is a bit of red. From cool white channel and a tiny bit from red diodes.

This is 1.5 ft from water surface.

 

[Nonya]

Hello,
Since I went from hybrid led(radion g5/ t5 ) to full led (radion g5/led bars) some months ago ,some acroporas are fine and grow well, for other, or they not grow, or they die, or they bleach.
Did you experience also that some aren't happy with leds when some thrives?
I have also the feel that under t5/halides you can keep the paar higher,when with the led, you have to go more down? I have the feel that 300 paar led are stronger for corals than 300 from another light?
Wich with par levels have you the most success?

I have experienced many of those things. The hardest part of the transition is trying to match the full spectrum and intensity of the old lights with the new ones in an attempt to make the corals "unaware" of any change in lighting source. That's hard to do without a spectrometer and accurate PAR meter.

 

[Superlightman]

I have experienced many of those things. The hardest part of the transition is trying to match the full spectrum and intensity of the old lights with the new ones in an attempt to make the corals "unaware" of any change in lighting source. That's hard to do without a spectrometer and accurate PAR meter.

What you have actually?

 

[Nonya]

What you have actually?

Back when I made the transition? Jeez, so long ago. SPS of many types--some deep water, acros galore, millis, stags & elkhorns, chalices, acans, some LPS, zoas.

 

[Superlightman]

Back when I made the transition? Jeez, so long ago. SPS of many types--some deep water, acros galore, millis, stags & elkhorns, chalices, acans, some LPS, zoas.

I mean wich lights?

 

[Nonya]

I mean wich lights?

In 2011ish I switched from 2 x 14,000K 400W MH and 2 x actinic VHOs to 260 watts of blue, royal blue and white DIY LEDs.

Right now, on a different tank, I'm using 2x Radion Gen 3 Pros running all blues-violets and 10$ white.

 

[Superlightman]

In 2011ish I switched from 2 x 14,000K 400W MH and 2 x actinic VHOs to 260 watts of blue, royal blue and white DIY LEDs.

And now you have same results and can keep milli...?

 

[Nonya]

And now you have same results and can keep milli...?

Haven't tried yet. Getting ready for a massive new tank build. Just collecting and fragging what I can for now.

 

[jda]

In general, most acropora need to be kept 400-450, or less under most LED and can go well up past 1000 under MH. There are some exceptions. Nobody knows why for sure, but there are some theories mostly to do with light quality.

I am not saying that any coral needs 1000 PAR of light, only that it does not hurt them any under MH.

You can see this in my re-build thread, but I have a 50g lowboy with a Gen 4 Radion on one side and a 250w 14k Phoenix on the other. I keep Colorado Sunbursts in this tank. While not acropora, if I turn the Radion up to match the PAR of the 14k Phoenix, the nems in the baskets under the Radion will wander around the tank while the ones under the 14k Phoenix do not move - this gets really annoying since the CSBs are expensive and can end up in your powerhead and die. I can just turn the Radion down 30-40% and then everything seems to stay put and is happy.

 

[Superlightman]

In general, most acropora need to be kept 400-450, or less under most LED and can go well up past 1000 under MH. There are some exceptions. Nobody knows why for sure, but there are some theories mostly to do with light quality.

I am not saying that any coral needs 1000 PAR of light, only that it does not hurt them any under MH.

You can see this in my re-build thread, but I have a 50g lowboy with a Gen 4 Radion on one side and a 250w 14k Phoenix on the other. I keep Colorado Sunbursts in this tank. While not acropora, if I turn the Radion up to match the PAR of the 14k Phoenix, the nems in the baskets under the Radion will wander around the tank while the ones under the 14k Phoenix do not move - this gets really annoying since the CSBs are expensive and can end up in your powerhead and die. I can just turn the Radion down 30-40% and then everything seems to stay put and is happy.

Thanks interesting reply, so maybe I should turn down a bit the radion

 

[Superlightman]

Haven't tried yet. Getting ready for a massive new tank build. Just collecting and fragging what I can for now.

Keep us update please

 

[damsels are not mean]

In general, most acropora need to be kept 400-450, or less under most LED and can go well up past 1000 under MH. There are some exceptions. Nobody knows why for sure, but there are some theories mostly to do with light quality.

? Citation needed on that honestly, that sounds pretty extreme for a minimum to me.