Are Anthias Possible in this Tank?

[revaltion131]

Alright, here's the "goods" first. The tank is your generic AGA 65 with a built-in overflow. The sump had to be somewhat small to fit the stand, it's a 29 gallon. The tank is ~5 months old now, with 87 lbs of rock. It's fairly dense, so there's plenty of swimming room but plenty of hiding room also. The goal is a mixed reef from SPS on top to lower-light LPS on the bottom and sides. Lighting is a single 150w pendant currently, skimmer is a Tunze 9010. Flow is provided by an Eheim 1262 return pump, one K4 and one K2. I do have a ball valve on the return line.

For fish, I currently only have one Ocellaris, 1 female/juvenile Pyle's Wrasse, and 1 Pearly Weed Wrasse (Xenojulis margaritaceus). I will for sure have one Potter's Angel and one male Pyle's.

Now, finally, on to the Anthias. I'd like to have a pair or trio in this tank. The feeding is no problem. I have done a good deal of reading already, but am still having trouble finding some really specific info. I know Bartlett's are the most often-recommended and they do seem to have valid cause behind that. However, I don't particularly care for the looks of the fish and would like to choose something else if it is a possibility. These are the species I have been looking at. Please let me know what you think and don't be afraid to tell me that Anthias are a total no in this system, either.

-Dispar
-Hawaiiensis (found very limited info on this species besides being closely related to ventralis)
-Ignitus
-Hyposelosoma
-Parvirostris
-Pleurotania (or however you spell the scientific name for the Pink Squares)

Lastly, I have a 20 gallon long for quarantine and it will be at least two weeks before purchasing any fish. Thanks in advance!

 

[SDguy]

Ignitus are hardier and prettier than dispar, IMO/E.

You'll never find hawaiiensis for sale. The similar ventralis are slow, shy...good for lower light displays with other timid feeders. Not hardy.

Parvirostris are, from what I hear, also shy, but hardier than ventralis. No personal experience here.

Hypsolesoma and pleurotaenia are too big.

Have you considered fatheads?

 

[H@rry]

From my experience Anthias are very shy, timid, easily intimidated, and chased to death. I had a pair of squamipinnis and they couldn't take the heat. I got a truncatus on March 8th of last year (he's been in for a year). He was a good bit shy for the first week or two but now he doesn't take any heat for a pair of GSM, half-black angel, or kole tang. I'm very satisfied with it.

 

[revaltion131]

Thanks for the advice so far. I'd read some conflicting things on hyposelosoma and pleurotaenia, so I figured I'd ask. Those two are definitly out.

I prefer ignitus to dispar in looks, but dispar seem to be easier to get. I like the carrberyi as well, but those are supposed to get twice as large, right?

I did read the info on ventralis and how they aren't really suited to a well-lit aquarium, but wasn't sure if hawaiiensis were up that line as well.

I was starting to hear some good things about parvirostris as single fish for smaller aquariums (25-40) but I couldn't find much for bigger tank sizes.

I'm looking for something with the very generic anthias look. I haven't seen a fathead in person, but the pictures and videos I've seen I don't really care for them. I like the colors but I don't like the overall shape, if that makes sense.

As far as aggression, the tank is intended to be a peaceful setting. I will most likely be adding the Potter's and male Pyle's at the same time if I can reliably find a good-looking male. The Ocellaris is still a juvenile that pretty much keeps to itself, if that matters.

 

[revaltion131]

Haven't decided for sure on a species yet, though I'm narrowing in on ignitus. Do you guys QT your anthias or put them straight into the DT?

 

[H@rry]

I just float them for 15 minutes to allow the temp to equalize and dump 'em in. That's the way I do all the fish.

 

[SDguy]

Best off QT-ing them. Treat with prazipro if flukes are involved. More importantly, though, the QT gives the fish time to adapt to eating prepared foods and the ability to compete for food with already established fish. IME you have a MUCH higher success rate with this method. HTH.

 

[revaltion131]

Thank you guys. My main concern with QTing was the worry that they might be like some wrasses that just don't do well at all in QT. Do you treat preventatively for flukes and the like, or do you treat once you see symptoms?

 

[revaltion131]

Alright, I went with a species I wasn't originally looking at, but from everything I read, they should do great. I ordered 3 but they only sent two to my LFS. They are, at least I think, rubrizonatus, and I get the feeling they're both males. They are in my QT, spent the night at the LFS and pass the eye test. Even if they're both males, I got lucky in that they ate prepared food when I fed tonight, both out of the water column and picked off the bottom of the tank. I couldn't get a great pic, but here's the best one. What are your thoughts?

 

[SDguy]

They are both males. Unfortunately, rubrizonatus females are pale monochromatic pink, so not often imported Hopefully these two will tolerate each other. Very hardy, pretty anthias.

 

[revaltion131]

I thought so, thanks. I have two tanks if they don't get along, but it would be putting a single fish in a 34 gallon cube. Do you think that's a suitable alternative to both being in the same 65 or would you try to give one back to the LFS or get rid of it locally? I wouldn't do anything until it was clear that they weren't going to "jive".

 

[SDguy]

These anthias get pretty big, and are scrappy, IME ( I recently removed and sold my male). I almost peed myself when I saw adults at the Long Beach Aquarium. Holy cow they get big!

 

[revaltion131]

The Advanced Aquarist article I read about them stated 4" max, maybe it was for a similar species and I misread. If they get aggressive, they might be alright. All of the fish except a future possible leopard should easily be able to handle aggression. Thank you. I'll have to keep a very close eye on things and be ready if aggression goes overboard or if the fish start to look cramped. I already have a trap I've used successfully a few times, so that's a start at least. One last question: should I expect aggression in the QT or will they probably wait until they have more "normal" and roomy circumstances in the display?