Bamboo shark red dots

[Spookyclemente]

Hello! I just recently got a bamboo shark. She is about 8 inches long and is in a 2 year old 125 just until I get my larger tank going properly. I have fine sand with 2 canister filter and a octo of the back protein skimmer.
My ammonia is 0 my nitrite is 0 my nitrate is 0 and my PH is 8.2.
I have noticed that the sharks stomach has little red dots on it. Nothing crazy but I wasn’t sure what this meant or if my send isn’t fine enough, I see her digging around under the rocks, making a little caves, and every once in a while comes out and explores her breathing is normal and she is pretty active digging a little systems is the red stomach something bad or does it just happened and will go away over time?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hello! I just recently got a bamboo shark. She is about 8 inches long and is in a 2 year old 125 just until I get my larger tank going properly. I have fine sand with 2 canister filter and a octo of the back protein skimmer.
My ammonia is 0 my nitrite is 0 my nitrate is 0 and my PH is 8.2.
I have noticed that the sharks stomach has little red dots on it. Nothing crazy but I wasn’t sure what this meant or if my send isn’t fine enough, I see her digging around under the rocks, making a little caves, and every once in a while comes out and explores her breathing is normal and she is pretty active digging a little systems is the red stomach something bad or does it just happened and will go away over time?

May be petechia or septicemia which sharks are susceptible to bacterial infections with declining water quality especially nitrate issues. Its important to have an effective filtration system to keep their water clean as they rarely tolerate high nitrate levels.
Clean/replace the filters often, and change the water when necessary. Your protein skimmer will need to be emptied approximately every other day. When your water becomes overly cloudy, you will need to change it. This will require large containers full of RODI filtered and salted water, and pumps to remove the old water while adding the new.
The shark should not appear to be panting or be overly lethargic. Its eyes and skin should not have any discolorations or white spots. Bacterial and even parasitical infection can cause discoloration of the skin, frequent yawning and chaffing on the bottom of the tank. Both a carbon filter and a protein skimmer are recommended. Like any aquatic specimen, it's also important to keep the water temperature comfortable for your shark. A temperature of 78-80 deg s ideal for bamboo sharks.
What filtration are you using and what test kits are you monitoring with?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

One thing, called petechia, is seen a lot in sharks. It often is just a generalized reaction to some irritant/stress (it is often never determined what that is). Can you post a picture?

Jay

 

[Spookyclemente]

May be petechia or septicemia which sharks are susceptible to bacterial infections with declining water quality especially nitrate issues. Its important to have an effective filtration system to keep their water clean as they rarely tolerate high nitrate levels.
Clean/replace the filters often, and change the water when necessary. Your protein skimmer will need to be emptied approximately every other day. When your water becomes overly cloudy, you will need to change it. This will require large containers full of RODI filtered and salted water, and pumps to remove the old water while adding the new.
The shark should not appear to be panting or be overly lethargic. Its eyes and skin should not have any discolorations or white spots. Bacterial and even parasitical infection can cause discoloration of the skin, frequent yawning and chaffing on the bottom of the tank. Both a carbon filter and a protein skimmer are recommended. Like any aquatic specimen, it's also important to keep the water temperature comfortable for your shark. A temperature of 78-80 deg s ideal for bamboo sharks.
What filtration are you using and what test kits are you monitoring with?

Hello!! Thank you for your time!!
mad far as my levels. I check weekly and make sure nothing goes up, if there is an increase I make sure to clean and re-test a hour later.
I’m using the API testing kit and I’m using a

Eheim Classic 250​

And a fluval 407
My temp is 78 and kept with a electric thermometer

 

[Spookyclemente]

One thing, called petechia, is seen a lot in sharks. It often is just a generalized reaction to some irritant/stress (it is often never determined what that is). Can you post a picture?

Jay

Gotcha! What’s a way to treat it? I have prazi the dots a very slight bit I noticed it right away.
I can try to get a pic for sure!

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Gotcha! What’s a way to treat it? I have prazi the dots a very slight bit I noticed it right away.
I can try to get a pic for sure!

Unlikely that this is caused by anything that prazi would control....at least I've never seen flukes associated with these spots.

Finding the root irritation helps. In many cases, this just goes away on its own. If infection occurs, then you need to dose with a gram negative, broad spectrum antibiotic, but in a treatment tank.

Jay

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hello!! Thank you for your time!!
mad far as my levels. I check weekly and make sure nothing goes up, if there is an increase I make sure to clean and re-test a hour later.
I’m using the API testing kit and I’m using a

Eheim Classic 250​

And a fluval 407
My temp is 78 and kept with a electric thermometer

Please dont take this as an insult regarding tests as it is not intended but the API kit youre using well known for false readings and often show levels lower than they are. As tank is continuing to seed, occasionally take a water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use API kits and see what readings they come up with and to compare with yours. . . . then you'll know
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock. If you are going to invest in a shark, invest in test kits- Reliable are Salifert and Hanna brands.

Do not test right after a water change as readings will be off- allow water 8-12 hrs to settle before testing. Also your filters are Very basic for shark care and will require frequent maintenance (cleaning filters and changing media) as canisters are known to contribute to nitrate- The very element you Dont want Elevated with shark husbandry

 

[Spookyclemente]

Unlikely that this is caused by anything that prazi would control....at least I've never seen flukes associated with these spots.

Finding the root irritation helps. In many cases, this just goes away on its own. If infection occurs, then you need to dose with a gram negative, broad spectrum antibiotic, but in a treatment tank.

Jay

 

[vetteguy53081]

I know its not the easiest but need more than 3" of its body in pic as concern is now raised with presence of dots if parasite or not

 

[Spookyclemente]

Please dont take this as an insult regarding tests as it is not intended but the API kit youre using well known for false readings and often show levels lower than they are. As tank is continuing to seed, occasionally take a water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use API kits and see what readings they come up with and to compare with yours. . . . then you'll know
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock. If you are going to invest in a shark, invest in test kits- Reliable are Salifert and Hanna brands.

Do not test right after a water change as readings will be off- allow water 8-12 hrs to settle before testing. Also your filters are Very basic for shark care and will require frequent maintenance (cleaning filters and changing media) as canisters are known to contribute to nitrate- The very element you Dont want Elevated with shark husbandry

I have been wanting to get a better testing kit for a while just haven’t jumped on it but now I’m gonna get one right away.
I have stuff to remove nitrate inside the filters as well as ammonia removers to make sure I keep as clean as possible. And no offense taken!! I’m always happy to learn more and more!

 

[chipmunkofdoom2]

If water quality is good, check your substrate. I worked with rays and skates at the National Aquarium in Baltimore. Their bottoms tend to get irritated pretty easily if the substrate isn't a smooth and fine-grained sand.

I can't tell from the pictures, but your substrate appears to be mixed. Not quite crushed coral, but not just sand. A substrate with more uniform grain size and no large/sharp chunks would probably be a better.

 

[Spookyclemente]

Unlikely that this is caused by anything that prazi would control....at least I've never seen flukes associated with these spots.

Finding the root irritation helps. In many cases, this just goes away on its own. If infection occurs, then you need to dose with a gram negative, broad spectrum antibiotic, but in a treatment tank.

Jay

Gotcha! It’s very slight and it’s a very dots I’m trying to get a picture but she won’t come out lol!

 

[Spookyclemente]

I know its not the easiest but need more than 3" of its body in pic as concern is now raised with presence of dots if parasite or not

 

[Spookyclemente]

If water quality is good, check your substrate. I worked with rays and skates at the National Aquarium in Baltimore. Their bottoms tend to get irritated pretty easily if the substrate isn't a smooth and fine-grained sand.

I can't tell from the pictures, but your substrate appears to be mixed. Not quite crushed coral, but not just sand. A substrate with more uniform grain size and no large/sharp chunks would probably be a better.

When I bought the sand I asked them for the best for sharks and rays. I got fine aragonit

 

[vetteguy53081]

When I bought the sand I asked them for the best for sharks and rays. I got fine aragonit

This is acceptable but fiji pink sand is ideal and very soft

 

[Spookyclemente]

I know its not the easiest but need more than 3" of its body in pic as concern is now raised with presence of dots if parasite or not

Just got a good picture here it is. It seems to have cleared a little since yesterday. Today is her 2nd day in the tank

 

[vetteguy53081]

Good thinking from underneath tank. Not horrible but the spots are there. If time permits, get a second opinion on water and a different LFS than where you go and one that does NOT use Api kits and compare readings- then you'll know where water is at

 

[chipmunkofdoom2]

Agreed with vetteguy, this sand is probably okay, but it's not as fine-grained and uniform as the stuff we kept with the rays and skates in my exhibit.

Also it looks like this could be a male shark. There are two small claspers (roughly analogous to the ***** in humans) on the pelvic fins. They're small, but will likely grow as the shark develops.

EDIT: apparently the anatomical terms for human genitalia are censored. Claspers are like the main sex organ in human males.

 

[Spookyclemente]

Good thinking from underneath tank. Not horrible but the spots are there. If time permits, get a second opinion on water and a different LFS than where you go and one that does NOT use Api kits and compare readings- then you'll know where water is at

Yesterday it was VERY noticeable and from my experience with owning a ray I know that red is no good. Today it seems to have faded so I’ll definitely keep an eye on it! And I’ll for sure get a better testing kit ASAP. Also what is my best choice of food to keep her on a healthy diet?

 

[Spookyclemente]

Agreed with vetteguy, this sand is probably okay, but it's not as fine-grained and uniform as the stuff we kept with the rays and skates in my exhibit.

Also it looks like this could be a male shark. There are two small claspers (roughly analogous to the ***** in humans) on the pelvic fins. They're small, but will likely grow as the shark develops.

Do you think adding a bit of fine sand over top of my sand is a good idea?
And ah dang! I didn’t notice that until you just said that! Looks like it’s a dude!