Best way to get rid of ich.

Joeganja

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It's been a struggle trying to find the right solution to get rid of ick but I've finally found the best way to get rid of this disease. I tried Copper Power in a quarantine tank without any sand and left me fish in there for about 4-6 weeks and found that it kills the ich better than any treatment that doesn't require as much attention as hyposalinity and other copper products. With Copper Power you just add the given amount and you don't need to test for Copper. When using the product don't run it with any type of carbon. And make sure you have a desperate holding tank to quarantine rather than your main tank because it will kill your invertebrates and coral.
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revhtree

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Kworker

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I just recently finished a fallow period on my display of 10.5 weeks. It seems like it would take forever in the beginning but life goes by quick, so it did not feel all that long in honesty. I haven't seen Ich since fish have been added back in, and lets hope it stays that way.

I went to use Copper once, and I did not like it. I am a person that likes to avoid chemicals if I can. I started adding cupramine very slowly originally with the Achilles and he freaked out. So I trashed using copper after that.

I performed Hyposalinity on my Achilles tang, Tomini tang, Yellow tang, 5 chromis, and 2 clowns. It worked great other than the clownfish jumping out of QT (I should of put on a cover). Hypo is fairly easy if you do it in a larger than the norm QT. I used a 40 breeder and a 50 gallon, I never found myself struggling to keep the salinity where it was needed.

However, there are also strains of Ich that are not killed by Hypo. Right now I am preparing to do the Tank Transfer method. It's fairly easy and supposed more effective than Hypo. Using tank transfer also allows you to get the fish Ich free in a shorter period of time. You need two sets of equipment in order to perform it, you could use 5 gallon bucks with small powerheads and heaters if space is limited. I would recommend going with larger for bigger fish.

It works as such:
Day 1: Acclimate fish into pre-setup QT

Day 4: In the morning before the lights come on, Transfer the fish in the first QT into the other with as little water as possible. Make sure salinity and temperature are matched. (Drain and clean out the previous QT and equipment with white vinegar and let it dry.)

Day 7: Repeat

Day 10: Repeat

Day 13: Repeat, conclusion.

Monitor the fish for a week or so afterwards just for assurance. I would use this time to treat with Prazipro as well for possible internal parasites.

The Tank Transfer method uses the parasites life cycle against itself. In a nutshell, the parasite is on the fish during the day feeding. It removes itself at night, you are removing the fish before it can re-attach.
 
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143MPCo

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I would say best way is not to get it in the first place, QT all your fish minimally for about 8-weeks, this gives you the chance to monitor, get it eating, and treat outside of your DT... Would also recommend the use an social acclimation box when introducing new members, check this interesting thread. I've used "hypo-salinity" and from my own personal experiences can say it worked for me and worked well. You need to take into consideration the gestation period of the ich when doing so and adjust duration according.

Simple search found the following info:

The life cycle and time line of each stage:

1 : TOMONT STAGE: This is where the parasite forms a membrane while attached to the substrate and goes into its reproductive mode, this can take from 3 to 28 days depending on the temperature of the water.
2 : THERONT STAGE: This is where the newly hatched parasite is free swimming in the water and is looking for a fish to attach to. It only has between 24 to 48 hours to do so or else it will die.
3 : TROPHONT STAGE: This is the adult parasite which is attached to a fish and actively feeding and the one that we can visibly see on a fish. This stage lives from 3 to 7 days.
4 : TROPHONT FREE SWIMMING: This is where the parasite has dropped off of the fish and is free swimming within the water looking for a suitable place to attach to so that it can form itself into the Tomont or reproductive stage, which can take up to 18 hours.
 
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barista7105

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+1 for hypo. I use the hypo after having very bad ich storm on my 2 tanks, and so far satisfied with the result. Keep the hypo condition for 8 weeks as minimum
 

Montireef

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The best way is just let the fish beat it. Boost its immunity system by providing good quality water, feed often and just let them alone.
 

Kworker

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I began tank transfer this morning as I stated earlier. It went smooth, except for the fact the Female triggerfish decided to wedge herself inside a PVC fitting she couldn't get out of. As long as the Salinity and temperature its really not that stressful on the fish.

Within a half hour I turned the lights on, and fed them. They were swimming around and eating as usual. I'm really liking this method so far, as it will allow me to QT the fish for a much shorter period than Hypo or Copper.
 

Kworker

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The best way is just let the fish beat it. Boost its immunity system by providing good quality water, feed often and just let them alone.

Sorry, but I would not do this.

I have personally tried it and it didn't work... and I am willing to bet most people who do that will see Ich on occasion on their fish. Just a outbreak waiting to happen. Best thing to do is make sure Ich is gone. You should have good water quality as well as feeding often and well to begin with.
 

shred5

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The best way is just let the fish beat it. Boost its immunity system by providing good quality water, feed often and just let them alone.

Yea I have never had much issue with ich.. Ich will attack a stressed fish.. Best keeping them stress free and well fed.. Sometime garlic can help by simulating appetite.
Most treatments just stress a fish more..

Problem is most people dont know how to id ich from other stuff like brook.
 

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