75 gallon with fish only with ich

[Cheems]

So I noticed my neon goby in my 75 gallon has a few spots of ick (maybe around 5-6 spots) luckily this tank doesn’t have any corals and only a few snails, also this is unrelated to my other posts and it’s a different tank

Since I don’t have any corals or many inverts (snails can be moved to a dif tank) I believe I have a few more options for curing ich.

What would be the best method to treat the whole 75 gallon? I have copper, prazipro, ruby rally pro on hand so those could be helpful. Hyposalinity also might be helpful, I’m hoping to not kill my beneficial bacteria and wanting to leave the tank open for corals in the future, so if copper would permanently ruin the tank I don’t want to do that

Inhabitants are:
Tomini tang (new)
Neon goby
Multicolor angelfish

 

[vetteguy53081]

So I noticed my neon goby in my 75 gallon has a few spots of ick (maybe around 5-6 spots) luckily this tank doesn’t have any corals and only a few snails, also this is unrelated to my other posts and it’s a different tank

Since I don’t have any corals or many inverts (snails can be moved to a dif tank) I believe I have a few more options for curing ich.

What would be the best method to treat the whole 75 gallon? I have copper, prazipro, ruby rally pro on hand so those could be helpful. Hyposalinity also might be helpful, I’m hoping to not kill my beneficial bacteria and wanting to leave the tank open for corals in the future, so if copper would permanently ruin the tank I don’t want to do that

Inhabitants are:
Tomini tang (new)
Neon goby
Multicolor angelfish

Please post pics under white light intensity as it can be sand grains or other. Ich moves every 24 hours and while 6 dots van be ich , need to verify

 

[Cheems]

Please post pics under white light intensity as it can be sand grains or other. Ich moves every 24 hours and while 6 dots van be ich , need to verify

ok I can do that but I do believe it is ick as I do notice a little duller coloration along with some light slime build up. I pointed out a few spots I believe are ick but my for some reason my camera is really struggling with focusing and zooming in on this fish. I sat there for like 10-20 minutes trying to get a good photo but my camera is not cooperating even though its a high quality phone camera. (iphone 14 pro) If anyone has any advice on how to take better photos let me know.

Some of them are way more noticeable in person. The photo doesnt do a good job but I would estimate there are around 4-5 spots in total. I dont see any on the other side of the goby. Other white markings in the photo are not there in person and are a camera error. Im going to do my best to get better photos but im pretty sure this is ick. I dont know if the other fish have it as they are very shy and dont come out often. Maybe I will try to clean the glass and see if I can get a few photos if I sit there for like 30 minutes and dont move.

 

[vetteguy53081]

ok I can do that but I do believe it is ick as I do notice a little duller coloration along with some light slime build up. I pointed out a few spots I believe are ick but my for some reason my camera is really struggling with focusing and zooming in on this fish. I sat there for like 10-20 minutes trying to get a good photo but my camera is not cooperating even though its a high quality phone camera. (iphone 14 pro) If anyone has any advice on how to take better photos let me know.

Some of them are way more noticeable in person. The photo doesnt do a good job but I would estimate there are around 4-5 spots in total. I dont see any on the other side of the goby. Other white markings in the photo are not there in person and are a camera error. Im going to do my best to get better photos but im pretty sure this is ick. I dont know if the other fish have it as they are very shy and dont come out often. Maybe I will try to clean the glass and see if I can get a few photos if I sit there for like 30 minutes and dont move.

Unfortunately pics are very blurry. Perhaps a video will be clearer.

 

[Cheems]

Unfortunately pics are very blurry. Perhaps a video will be clearer.

Yeah I tried that but I’m 99% sure it’s ick, signature white spots although the only slightly unusual part is the slight build up of slime. I plan on taking more pictures and uploading them to confirm before I start any treatment but assuming this is ich, what would be the best route? I see multiple different ways people treat ich when they dont have corals and inverts

 

[vetteguy53081]

Yeah I tried that but I’m 99% sure it’s ick, signature white spots although the only slightly unusual part is the slight build up of slime. I plan on taking more pictures and uploading them to confirm before I start any treatment but assuming this is ich, what would be the best route? I see multiple different ways people treat ich when they dont have corals and inverts

Assuming ich, best recourse is to treat in separate tank using either coppersafe or copper power at therapeutic level 2.25 for a FULL 3o days. I would add remaining fish in the tank with it as they have been exposed to the parasites. Monitor levels with a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off
A quarantine tank can be as simple as a tank from a second hand store or a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.

 

[eliaslikesfish]

Yeah I tried that but I’m 99% sure it’s ick, signature white spots although the only slightly unusual part is the slight build up of slime. I plan on taking more pictures and uploading them to confirm before I start any treatment but assuming this is ich, what would be the best route? I see multiple different ways people treat ich when they dont have corals and inverts

I’m gonna leave this here in case we get a better pic and do believe it’s ich: what has worked for me with ich is to remove all inverts and dose cupramine for a week or 2. That’s how I got rid of it on my blue hippo tang, worked like a charm and no issues since. after the week or maybe 2 get cuprisorb and run that in a filter bag in high flow for another week and do a good sized water change. once the copper is below .05-.1 ppm you can add back inverts. I recommend using a hanna copper tester if you can get your hands on one. hope this helps if it ends up being ich.

note: with a hanna checker, once copper reads .50 ppm it is high enough that it will be killing all bacteria and just keep it just above .50 (for cupramine only, other product will require a higher reading)

 

[eliaslikesfish]

You can also do a quarantine tank but I found it’s unnecessary if you’re able to re-home your inverts for a couple weeks

 

[Cheems]

Assuming ich, best recourse is to treat in separate tank using either coppersafe or copper power at therapeutic level 2.25 for a FULL 3o days. I would add remaining fish in the tank with it as they have been exposed to the parasites. Monitor levels with a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off
A quarantine tank can be as simple as a tank from a second hand store or a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.

Yeah I understand fallowing the tank would be best but it would be extremely difficult for me to set up a reasonably sized quarantine as these fish are relatively active even if all of them are under 2 inches

I’m wondering since there’s just fish in the tank if I would be able to do copper treatment straight into the tank or do hyposalinity in the tank.

I’m gonna leave this here in case we get a better pic and do believe it’s ich: what has worked for me with ich is to remove all inverts and dose cupramine for a week or 2. That’s how I got rid of it on my blue hippo tang, worked like a charm and no issues since. after the week or maybe 2 get cuprisorb and run that in a filter bag in high flow for another week and do a good sized water change. once the copper is below .05-.1 ppm you can add back inverts. I recommend using a hanna copper tester if you can get your hands on one. hope this helps if it ends up being ich.

Interesting, is cupramarine just copper? I have coppersafe on hand so perhaps that could be used instead. I’m not sure so whatever medication would be best.

My hope is that I don’t have to quarantine due to not having ANY good space for a good size quarantine since they are active fish

 

[Cheems]

You can also do a quarantine tank but I found it’s unnecessary if you’re able to re-home your inverts for a couple weeks

I’ve got many other saltwater tanks the snails could go into so that would be very easy to do. I could also easily quarantine them since they don’t need too much space so I’ve got several options as for the snails

My main worry is removing the copper afterwards. As long as I can remove the copper after treatment I think it should be ok to use copper from what I’ve seen

 

[eliaslikesfish]

Yeah I understand fallowing the tank would be best but it would be extremely difficult for me to set up a reasonably sized quarantine as these fish are relatively active even if all of them are under 2 inches

I’m wondering since there’s just fish in the tank if I would be able to do copper treatment straight into the tank or do hyposalinity in the tank.


Interesting, is cupramarine just copper? I have coppersafe on hand so perhaps that could be used instead. I’m not sure so whatever medication would be best.

My hope is that I don’t have to quarantine due to not having ANY good space for a good size quarantine since they are active fish

either will work just fine, just make sure you know what level the copper needs to be at for copper safe. I think it needs to read higher than cupramine but I could be wrong. I personally have never used it but it’s the same idea

 

[Cheems]

either will work just fine, just make sure you know what level the copper needs to be at for copper safe. I think it needs to read higher than cupramine but I could be wrong. I personally have never used it but it’s the same idea

Yeah I will follow the directions on the bottle unless there’s a better dose

 

[Jay Hemdal]

So I noticed my neon goby in my 75 gallon has a few spots of ick (maybe around 5-6 spots) luckily this tank doesn’t have any corals and only a few snails, also this is unrelated to my other posts and it’s a different tank

Since I don’t have any corals or many inverts (snails can be moved to a dif tank) I believe I have a few more options for curing ich.

What would be the best method to treat the whole 75 gallon? I have copper, prazipro, ruby rally pro on hand so those could be helpful. Hyposalinity also might be helpful, I’m hoping to not kill my beneficial bacteria and wanting to leave the tank open for corals in the future, so if copper would permanently ruin the tank I don’t want to do that

Inhabitants are:
Tomini tang (new)
Neon goby
Multicolor angelfish

IMO, I’d pull the inverts and run hyposalinity. It won’t harm your beneficial bacteria too much. You won’t be able to reintroduce the invertebrates for 60 days though.

Hyposalinity

Hyposalinity Jay Hemdal 2021 This term refers to a long-term bath treatment for marine fishes in which the salt content of the water is lowered and held below the point that certain parasites can survive. The salt level reached, and the time of the treatment are the two variables...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[vetteguy53081]

I’ve got many other saltwater tanks the snails could go into so that would be very easy to do. I could also easily quarantine them since they don’t need too much space so I’ve got several options as for the snails

My main worry is removing the copper afterwards. As long as I can remove the copper after treatment I think it should be ok to use copper from what I’ve seen

You dont want copper in display tanks as coral and inverts can never go back in. Its near impossible to remove 100% unless you tear the tank down and reset it

Yeah I understand fallowing the tank would be best but it would be extremely difficult for me to set up a reasonably sized quarantine as these fish are relatively active even if all of them are under 2 inches

I’m wondering since there’s just fish in the tank if I would be able to do copper treatment straight into the tank or do hyposalinity in the tank.


Interesting, is cupramarine just copper? I have coppersafe on hand so perhaps that could be used instead. I’m not sure so whatever medication would be best.

My hope is that I don’t have to quarantine due to not having ANY good space for a good size quarantine since they are active fish

Cupramine is riskier ionic copper and best is coppersafe
I dont recommend Hypo always as some fish are stressed by it or intolerant. No one likes the isolation and quarantine but most effective as you will need to have display tank fishless for 6-8 weeks to allow parasites to die off without a host

 

[eliaslikesfish]

I put my inverts back into my display 3 weeks after I had started removing the cupramine and they’re alive and well now. maybe I got lucky. Also have added several LPS and a bubble tip since removing copper and everything is thriving. cuprisorb got it all out along with 2 water changes in 3 weeks. hanna checker read 0.0 anyways.

 

[Cheems]

IMO, I’d pull the inverts and run hyposalinity. It won’t harm your beneficial bacteria too much. You won’t be able to reintroduce the invertebrates for 60 days though.

Hyposalinity

Hyposalinity Jay Hemdal 2021 This term refers to a long-term bath treatment for marine fishes in which the salt content of the water is lowered and held below the point that certain parasites can survive. The salt level reached, and the time of the treatment are the two variables...

www.reef2reef.com

Yeah I feel like this could be a good option. I could manage a quarantine with the fish but not for long so this feels like a good option however it’s just a question if such small fish could handle it

You dont want copper in display tanks as coral and inverts can never go back in. Its near impossible to remove 100% unless you tear the tank down and reset it

Cupramine is riskier ionic copper and best is coppersafe
I dont recommend Hypo always as some fish are stressed by it or intolerant. No one likes the isolation and quarantine but most effective as you will need to have display tank fishless for 6-8 weeks to allow parasites to die off without a host

Yeah I’ve got coppersafe on hand, I understand it’s very difficult to remove but I wonder if I used cuprasorb if it would absorb the coppersafe

I definetely would quarantine and fallow but it’s going to be very difficult and expensive to do. I feel like if there are other options since I have no corals or proper inverts then it might be better

I suppose it just depends on if I can get the copper out. Might take quite a bit of high volume water changes but I wonder if it’s possible. Does copper absorb into the rocks/sand?

 

[Cheems]

I put my inverts back into my display 3 weeks after I had started removing the cupramine and they’re alive and well now. maybe I got lucky. Also have added several LPS and a bubble tip since removing copper and everything is thriving. cuprisorb got it all out along with 2 water changes in 3 weeks. hanna checker read 0.0 anyways

How big was your tank? Perhaps tank size might play a part

It seems like there are 3 routes to go
-Quarantine and fallow
-Copper in the main tank
-Hyposalinity

Copper sounds the easiest to me but easiest isn’t always best. One thing to note is even if it took a long time to remove the copper, I don’t have any plans to immediately add coral within the next few months as I don’t have the funds yet

Plus I’m more focused on my 29 gallon for corals and inverts, which is thriving without disease

 

[eliaslikesfish]

How big was your tank? Perhaps tank size might play a part

It seems like there are 3 routes to go
-Quarantine and fallow
-Copper in the main tank
-Hyposalinity

Copper sounds the easiest to me but easiest isn’t always best. One thing to note is even if it took a long time to remove the copper, I don’t have any plans to immediately add coral within the next few months as I don’t have the funds yet

Plus I’m more focused on my 29 gallon for corals and inverts, which is thriving without disease

40 gallon, so maybe that does have something to do with it.
side note: blue hippo tang is the size of a quarter and will soon be moved to a 100 gallon that is being set up, for the tang police

 

[Cheems]

40 gallon, so maybe that does have something to do with it.
side note: blue hippo tang is the size of a quarter and will soon be moved to a 100 gallon that is being set up, for the tang police

Yeah my tank is almost double the size so hopefully that wouldn’t be an issue. Also my super shy little multicolored angelfish decided to peak his head out at me and he looks very healthy! I don’t see any ick on him and he’s been going strong in here for a while now. With how small and shy he is I worry about quarantine as well as not having the funds for a whole new setup with a filter, live rock, ect

 

[eliaslikesfish]

Yeah my tank is almost double the size so hopefully that wouldn’t be an issue. Also my super shy little multicolored angelfish decided to peak his head out at me and he looks very healthy! I don’t see any ick on him and he’s been going strong in here for a while now. With how small and shy he is I worry about quarantine as well as not having the funds for a whole new setup with a filter, live rock, ect

Glad there aren’t any spots on him, when my tang got ich the clowns never got the dots either… I’ve had my eye set one of those exact angels since I got in the hobby. As soon as the 100 gallon is setup I’m grabbing one, I absolutely love them.