Cant figure out reefing.

Sheehantastic

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Hi all,

I'm trying my hand at reefing. I've had my 150 gallon up and running for about a year. All my fish and hermit crabs are fat and happy and water parameters are stable. So I got my first zoa frag the other day. It had two polyps that were bright orange and happy. I dipped it and everything seemed fine for the first two days. Then the morning of the third day I noticed the polyps were mostly closed (I can still see a little bright orange peaking out) and it seems it's put out a couple of new polyps. I dipped with coral rx as directed. Any advice the group can give would be greatly appreciated. The following are my parameters.
Temp 76 F
Gravity 1.026
Ph 8.2
Ammonia 0
Nitrite.25
DKH 9
Phosphorus 0
Nitrate 7
Calcium 360
Magnesium 1350
Potassium 400
Using fritz rpm if that makes a difference. I have seaclone 150 skimmer. A fluval fx6 canister, an eheim pro 7 something or other canister, two ai 26 hd lights. Not sure of my par readings.
20221123_132535.jpg
 
Orphek OR3 reef aquarium LED bar

mdb_talon

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It's hard to say but my best guess is too little flow and cyano covering the new frag. For starters I would use a turkey baster and keep it clean. Do you have any wavemakers in tank or is all flow from the canister filters? If no wavemakers I would add some even large canister filters won't give you the amount and type of flow you want in a 150g tank.

Having some phosphate would be good also but not sure what test you are using and don't think it would be the cause of this over few days anyway.
 

LordofCinder

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I don't know what kind of lights you have so I googled it. This is the Hydra AI 26?

The description says maximum coverage of 24" depth, but recommended coverage is 18" depth. Suppose you have your lights about 8"ish off the water, and how deep is a 150 gallon tank?

I'm thinking you should try to get a PAR meter, I think the problem is with the lighting.
 
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Sheehantastic

Sheehantastic

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I do have a wave maker 2100 gph I believe. I had it agitating the surface. I don't know why I thought that was a good idea. LFS also suggested increasing flow. So I've moved it so it's visibly moving the polyps around a bit. I'll try that for a couple days and see how it goes.

Yes to hydra 26, HD I believe? I've had them for quite a while. LFS doesn't rent par meter so I guess I'll see if I can snag one on the cheap.
 

GARRIGA

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I do have a wave maker 2100 gph I believe. I had it agitating the surface. I don't know why I thought that was a good idea. LFS also suggested increasing flow. So I've moved it so it's visibly moving the polyps around a bit. I'll try that for a couple days and see how it goes.

Yes to hydra 26, HD I believe? I've had them for quite a while. LFS doesn't rent par meter so I guess I'll see if I can snag one on the cheap.
BRS I believe still has PAR meter rentals except now you buy then return and get most of your money back. Think the cost still under $75.

I'd consider an ICP test because there might be something in the water or missing not affecting the fish but might affect coral growth. Doing exactly that myself but for other reasons.
 

mdb_talon

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I do have a wave maker 2100 gph I believe. I had it agitating the surface. I don't know why I thought that was a good idea. LFS also suggested increasing flow. So I've moved it so it's visibly moving the polyps around a bit. I'll try that for a couple days and see how it goes.

Yes to hydra 26, HD I believe? I've had them for quite a while. LFS doesn't rent par meter so I guess I'll see if I can snag one on the cheap.
Surface agitation is good, but adequate flow elsewhere is key also. Just based off the one picture with the cyano and the way zoas appear makes me think low flow.

Lighting may be an issue longer term, but otherwise healthy zoas will open in ambient room lighting for quite awhile usually before they get too ticked and close up so I don't think that's the issue here in a few days. I would clean it off and then put that frag somewhere in higher flow and see how it does.
 
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Sheehantastic

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Alright so went out and got a par meter from BRS. I was getting a whopping 5 par on my sand bed. Cranked up the intensity a bit and now I'm getting 50 on my sand bed. Moved the frag to a higher flow area and up the rock work a bit so it's getting in the 120 range for par now. I'll give it a few days and see what happens.
 

MartinM

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50+ should be ok for Zooas. Using canister filters, while not unheard of, it is uncommon for reefing. Are you just using them as return pumps/water motion? Did you begin the tank with live rock or dry rock? Do you have a video of the full tank?

I’ve been reefing for 20+ years, and IME most problems people have are from 1) not using live rock and 2) lack of stable parameters. Not saying I don’t run into problems also, but this is what I see.
 
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Sheehantastic

Sheehantastic

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Live rock and sand since start up. I've heard mixed reviews with canister vs sump with regard to reefing. I've always had really good luck on FOWLR with cannister and HOB skimmer combos. From what I can tell with weekly testing and daily test strips it doesn't seem as though my parameters move much one way or the other.

I'm using api master kits and red sea test strips. I went out and bought a hanna digital photometer kit yesterday we'll see how close the api kits are when I get around to firing that up.
 

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