Coral tissue floating on skeleton and/or receding. HELP!

Bokevince

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I had a cyano issue and i used cyanoclean (bacteries against cyano) , it worked but my water became very cloudy for 2 weeks so the "par" should be lower than before, and then i run uv and my water became ultra clear then necrosis started so i was thinking of sunburst in my case... ( noticed also that all my zoas were closed when my lamps were running at 100%...
 

LongBeachReefer562

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Hello All!

I have exhausted all avenues I know and am now looking for your help. My setup has been running for just over 1 year and have had good success with fish and corals, until recently. In the last 2 months I have had unexplained coral losses. The type of coral does not seem to matter as losses have been seen across the board. It started out slow, but seems like more and more corals are being impacted. I will try to explain the best I can the symptoms, giving as much detail of my setup as possible (I apologize in advance for the length of this post).

It does not seem to matter if the coral is an acro, monti, chalice, cyphastrea, favia, euphyllia, etc. I have lost at least one of the above in the last month. I am seeing STN starting in the middle of the frag on acros (these were added a few weeks ago so may not be related). I am seeing tissue loss on a pokerstar monti from both the edges and middle of the coral. I see tissue floating/moving on the skeleton with the water movement on both chalices and cyphastrea with the tissue eventually dying/receding. I have favias that recede until there is nothing left but skeleton. I have heads of torch corals that wither away after a week or two while healthy ones remain. Seems like I come home from work and another coral that was healthy now has some issue.

Here are all the specifics of my system (I apologize if I forget something):
300G display tank (96x30x24)
100G sump
4 Jebao RW-15s (two at each end of the tank in various wave patterns)

Temp: 79F (very little, if any, temp swings)
Salinity: 1.025 (Refractometer calibrated monthly)
PH: 8.2 (Red Sea)
Alk: 8.5 (Hanna)
Calcium: 458 (Hanna)
Magnesium: 1320 (Salifert
Iodide: .04 (been trying hard to bring this up) (Seachem)
Ammonia: 0 (Red Sea)
Nitrite: 0 (Red Sea)
Nitrate: 10 (Red Sea)
Phosphate: .04 (Hanna)
Strontium: Have not tested yet.
-None of my test kits are anywhere close to expiring.

Lighting: I use T5's with the following light schedule
2 actinic, 1 ati blue, 1 ati coral+ on from noon to 9pm
1 ati blue, 1 ati coral + on from 3:30pm to 7:30pm

I do 10% water changes once a week. I use Aquavitro products for salt and additives (with exception of baking powder for alk). Once a month during water changes, I try to clean the sand bed. Sand bed is 2 to 3 inches thick. In my sump I have a large area for Chaeto algae. I run my protein skimmer about 50% of the time. I have a large amount of live rock in the DT. I also have rock in portions of my sump. I do not run GFO, carbon, or any other reactors at this point in time. (Looking to add a Calcium reactor once I figure out what this issue is.) There are significant amounts of space between corals and the affected ones range throughout the DT. My fish and inverts have left corals alone (even looked at night with flashlight). I do not see any visible pest during the day or at night with flashlight. I have tested for stray voltage in the water using a multimeter which resulted in 0 (tested both AC and DC). I have tried numerous dips with Coral RX and Seachem's dip which has not stopped anything.

Fish:
1 Blue Star Leopard Wrasse
1 Fiji Leopard Wrasse
1 Ornate Leopard Wrasse
4 Zebra dartfish/gobies
3 firefish
6 clownfish
1 Zebra Blenny
2 Hawaiian Flame wrasses
1 Yellow coris wrasse
1 Melanarus wrasse
1 Carpenters Wrasse
1 Blue Dot Jawfish

Inverts:
1 Blood Red shrimp
2 Cleaner Shrimp
3 Peppermint Shrimp
Trochus, Astrea, Small Turbo, Nassarius, and Cerith snails

I have spoken to several local experts and they are all stumped. I have even brought water samples and sicks corals into a local aquarium maintenance company. We tried freshwater dips which yielded no pests. We looked at the corals I brought in under a microscope, nothing definitive came from that. The monti tissue MAY have had bite marks on it and what one person thought was an isopod. But the other coral tissues did not appear to have bite marks. I brought in samples of possible pest from the dips I did and all were determined beneficial pods.

I have attached a few pics to help demonstrate (sorry for picture quality).

If anyone has any ideas, please let me know. At this point, I am out of things to try (with exception of testing Strontium) and getting very frustrated as losses are starting to mount. Perhaps with your help I can finally get an answer and save my corals!

If I missed anything, please ask and I will answer the best I can. Thanks!

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Did you ever determine what the issue was? Bacterial? Rusty magnet?

ive been having an almost identical problem.
 

Making themselves at home: Have you intentionally done anything in your aquarium to enhance the natural behavior of your fish?

  • I planned my tank to encourage natural fish behavior.

    Votes: 30 28.0%
  • I did some things to encourage natural fish behavior.

    Votes: 37 34.6%
  • Anything that encourages natural fish behavior was a byproduct of the aquascaping.

    Votes: 18 16.8%
  • I did not do anything to encourage natural fish behavior.

    Votes: 19 17.8%
  • Other.

    Votes: 3 2.8%
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