Cycled?

luisruiz326

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I have kept adding Seachem stability and my ammonia and nitrites have finally hit 0 while my nitrates are above 20. Am I cycled and ready for a 50% WC?

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James5214

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If you reading 0 ammonia and have nitrates then your tank is cycled. But api is very notorious for false readings. So maybe do multiple test and compare or take to LFS to test unless they use api as well. But I dosed seechems stability as well and did daily water changes on my tank. Added fish first day. 3 months later everyone is happy corals are happy and growing. The best thing to do to drop anything is a big water change. Don't add to many chemicals. Like brs says if you only do 10% water change your only taking away 10% of the problem.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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If you reading 0 ammonia and have nitrates then your tank is cycled. But api is very notorious for false readings. So maybe do multiple test and compare or take to LFS to test unless they use api as well. But I dosed seechems stability as well and did daily water changes on my tank. Added fish first day. 3 months later everyone is happy corals are happy and growing. The best thing to do to drop anything is a big water change. Don't add to many chemicals. Like brs says if you only do 10% water change your only taking away 10% of the problem.
API is NOT "notorious for false readings"!
API tests are not as PRECISE as others, meaning your nitrate test result is somewhere within a range of 20 to 40, for example, as opposed to other test kits that may give you a more specific number.
But unless they are not used correctly, API tests are as ACCURATE as many other hobby grade kits, meaning if the color is between 20 and 40, you can be pretty sure your nitrate actually IS between 20 and 40.
*The caveat here is that often once a tank is cycled, API ammonia will be a little green -- between the colors for 0 and 0.25 -- and this can safely be interpreted as 0 ammonia. (This is what Chortanator was referring to)
 

Chortanator

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API is NOT "notorious for false readings"!
API tests are not as PRECISE as others, meaning your nitrate test result is somewhere within a range of 20 to 40, for example, as opposed to other test kits that may give you a more specific number.
But unless they are not used correctly, API tests are as ACCURATE as many other hobby grade kits, meaning if the color is between 20 and 40, you can be pretty sure your nitrate actually IS between 20 and 40.
*The caveat here is that often once a tank is cycled, API ammonia will be a little green -- between the colors for 0 and 0.25 -- and this can safely be interpreted as 0 ammonia. (This is what Chortanator was referring to)
It was my understanding that the ammonia test also picks up non-toxic ammonia and can give false high readings, but I haven't experienced this myself. After my tank was cycled I never tested for ammonia, and my API test was soon tossed and replaced with the Fluval Fresh and Saltwater master test kit. This test kit also lists the total ammonia, but on the chart it will also say how much of that is toxic ammonia, which API doesn't do.

Maybe that's slightly off-topic, but just some info for OP in case they're wondering why API tests get the false reading reputation.
 

James5214

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I was just saying spend the extra few bucks to get a way better testing system than api as it will inaccurate which to me is a false reading. Why spend money on api and not get the answer you need when you can get hanna or salifert for a little more and get accurate readings
 

James5214

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Yes I wasn't negating that the tank wasn't cycled. I said if your reading 0 ammonia and nitrates it's cycled but I was saying just to be safe to maybe take to LFS or use different kit that's all
 

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