Cylinder tank 105 gallon , need some advice.

Reefer_Polish

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Hello Everyone, I’m new at this forum and I would
Like to learn more and get some advices from you , I have my 105 cylinder tank for year and half and still sometime got problem with brown algea, running Eshopp skimmer 120 , got 3 shox, water change 20 % every 2 weeks , just got uv sterilizer, 5 fishes in tank , ? Any advices? I would like start growing some corals for right now something for beginners , do I need any adds to my equipment ? Also in
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my sump on the bottom got something looks like sand , ? Do I need this vacum or this is normal? Adding pic
 

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Do you use RO/DI water? Or do you use tap water with a water conditioner?

I can't tell from the photo what kind of algae you're fighting. This link shows a few different types of algae (and ideas on how to get rid of them). Hope that helps.

 

brandon429

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Undoubtedly you need to engineer direct access to those rocks


to work solely through the water to try and fix that algae is possible with fluconazole but it’s not a real win


that dead mass will fall, compound, add to cyano woes that ride in on stocked corals


imagine when its decked out in corals. Plus five years locked at the bottom untouchable

you need to find a way to build modular rock stacks that can be lifted to the top for direct guiding, if you engineer that you will have control over all future invasions, not all are going to respond to an animal you add or a doser you can try

as it sits, you are building a system that must control every invader it will ever see solely via the water, access isn’t really possible. I’m thinking of future invasions far past this one...sandbed challenges

fluconazole powder can likely kill off this algae, if you add snails etc and they don’t work, then you have their waste compounding too. A solely hands off system is just so hard to run, even zoos have to scuba dive their tanks for a reason, none run well solely via the water.
 
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Reefer_Polish

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Do you use RO/DI water? Or do you use tap water with a water conditioner?

I can't tell from the photo what kind of algae you're fighting. This link shows a few different types of algae (and ideas on how to get rid of them). Hope that helps.

Do you use RO/DI water? Or do you use tap water with a water conditioner?

I can't tell from the photo what kind of algae you're fighting. This link shows a few different types of algae (and ideas on how to get rid of them). Hope that helps.


Thank you for quick respond , alge in the back are hard algea from calcium , trying to grow up on the back wall to hold up green star polyps, dosing reef fusion 1 and 2 . Just trying to learn more about rest algea , did you know what can be at my sump ?
 
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Reefer_Polish

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Thank you for quick respond , alge in the back are hard algea from calcium , trying to grow up on the back wall to hold up green star polyps, dosing reef fusion 1 and 2 . Just trying to learn more about rest algea , did you know what can be at my sump ?

Do you use RO/DI water? Or do you use tap water with a water conditioner?

I can't tell from the photo what kind of algae you're fighting. This link shows a few different types of algae (and ideas on how to get rid of them). Hope that helps.


For water I visit my store close by to since I buy my tank, did you preferred to get some water system for this tank ?
 
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Reefer_Polish

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Undoubtedly you need to engineer direct access to those rocks


to work solely through the water to try and fix that algae is possible with fluconazole but it’s not a real win


that dead mass will fall, compound, add to cyano woes that ride in on stocked corals


imagine when its decked out in corals. Plus five years locked at the bottom untouchable

you need to find a way to build modular rock stacks that can be lifted to the top for direct guiding, if you engineer that you will have control over all future invasions, not all are going to respond to an animal you add or a doser you can try

as it sits, you are building a system that must control every invader it will ever see solely via the water, access isn’t really possible. I’m thinking of future invasions far past this one...sandbed challenges

fluconazole powder can likely kill off this algae, if you add snails etc and they don’t work, then you have their waste compounding too. A solely hands off system is just so hard to run, even zoos have to scuba dive their tanks for a reason, none run well solely via the water.

So you suggest is water problem ? I growing hard algea on the back for green star polyps , because my back wall is plastic so doesn’t hold any of it , just worrie what is on my sump and , why somtimeS brown alge shows so fast on my aquarium , what kind problem or what mistake I make .
 

AMBERKITTRELL

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Looks like we have similar tanks.. The price you pay for having a cylinder tank :/ Beautiful, but DIFFICULT. I had algae problems as you, but I invested in a coralife 12x turbotwist UV sterilizer (rated for 500g).... And yes, made it fit in the cabinet below. I also went with a custom made insert which contains frag plug holes and run a Kessil AP700. I have slowly added mushrooms and zoas and currently have 0 powerheads in this tank... The current is plenty strong for them. I will explore other options as needed. The debris in the sump need to be addressed or else it will just get into the main tank. I also have a Santa Monica Algae scrubber. GET ONE. Keeps the algae out of my tank... Lastly, when brown diatoms start to pop up, my Kohl tang keeps those under control.
Hope this helps!

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