d2mini's "Essential Focus" Mixed Reef Build
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Bob Escher
Welcome to Saltwater
Awesome is that right at the kitchen and living room? Mine sits to my front left and my TV and stereo to my front and upper right.
zoomonster
Valuable Member
I give you credit man that's one seriously text book clean setup, with meticulous attention to detail, you put together even if you do have hanging lights ;)
Sorry couldn't resist after that thread about the new ATI, non hanging, mounts.
Sorry couldn't resist after that thread about the new ATI, non hanging, mounts.
Rotknee
Community Member
I was looking at your sump (awesome design for a Triton set up BTW) and wondering if you are using a check valve on your return line? I didn't see one in any of your pics. Speaking of pics, I know a guy who takes incredible shots at Blue Lemon Photography. I am sure he will hook you up if you ask nicely. ;)
OP
OP
ha! hmmmm... I wonder who that guy is? ;) :D
No check valve. They fail.
The sump has way more than enough space to hold the little bit of water that drain when the power goes out.
OP
OP
A little update on the Elos drain system...
The drain itself is very quiet. If the water level is near the top of the overflow where it should be it's pretty much silent. But....
This whole time I was assuming the drain was a siphon, with the amount that it can potentially flow. But it's not, it's more of a fancy durso standpipe. Well, kinda in between the two.
The drain has an inner and outer pipe. The outer one rotates around the inner, which is what adjust the amount of flow.
The inner has a slot cut out of the bottom of it, about an inch or two from the base of the overflow.
This is where the water drains from. So when power goes out, the whole overflow drains.
Which is fine because it's a small overflow.
And this pipe is open at top, but if the water rises in the overflow, water will trickle down the pipe from the top. And if it rises high enough, it should create a siphon.
But... when you slip on the outer pipe, which also has a slot cut out of the bottom, it slips down and covers or reveals the slot on the inner pipe. This is how the flow is adjusted.
The problem I'm having is there is an air hole at the top of the outer pipe so it sucks air down into the plumbing.
So now there is a bunch of air bubbles coming out of the spray bar.
They are big bubbles that rise to the surface and pop.
This is creating a lot of moisture along the top of the sump rim because the water level in the refugium is only a couple inches from the top.
My solution is to build a cover for the refugium which I was thinking of doing anyway.
The bubbles don't seem to be a problem as far as getting back to the tank.
Temporarily, I'm running the tank with just the inner pipe. No big air bubbles and I adjust the flow with the Cepex ball valve I have on the drain in the stand.
This runs it pretty good and my Vectra L1 pump is running at 60% with the valve on the drain closed nearly half way.
The flow coming back out seems pretty good. There is the main return by the top of the overflow and then there is the second return coming out of the base of the overflow.
I extended the secondary one to almost the center of the tank with an elbow that shoots it toward the front glass.
And then I have the single MP40 on the rear wall on the left side.
The entire surface of my water has movement/ripples.
Here's a couple pics to show the water movement.
The water is quite cloudy. Probably will be until I get rock and sand in there.
On another note, I ran 50ft of Cat6 cable to the mixing station today!
And installed my old GHL Power Bar inside the shed.
Another step closer to getting the ATO working.
Now I can get my level sensor hooked up to the Profilux and hook up the little Cole Parmer peristaltic pump.
The drain itself is very quiet. If the water level is near the top of the overflow where it should be it's pretty much silent. But....
This whole time I was assuming the drain was a siphon, with the amount that it can potentially flow. But it's not, it's more of a fancy durso standpipe. Well, kinda in between the two.
The drain has an inner and outer pipe. The outer one rotates around the inner, which is what adjust the amount of flow.
The inner has a slot cut out of the bottom of it, about an inch or two from the base of the overflow.
This is where the water drains from. So when power goes out, the whole overflow drains.
Which is fine because it's a small overflow.
And this pipe is open at top, but if the water rises in the overflow, water will trickle down the pipe from the top. And if it rises high enough, it should create a siphon.
But... when you slip on the outer pipe, which also has a slot cut out of the bottom, it slips down and covers or reveals the slot on the inner pipe. This is how the flow is adjusted.
The problem I'm having is there is an air hole at the top of the outer pipe so it sucks air down into the plumbing.
So now there is a bunch of air bubbles coming out of the spray bar.
They are big bubbles that rise to the surface and pop.
This is creating a lot of moisture along the top of the sump rim because the water level in the refugium is only a couple inches from the top.
My solution is to build a cover for the refugium which I was thinking of doing anyway.
The bubbles don't seem to be a problem as far as getting back to the tank.
Temporarily, I'm running the tank with just the inner pipe. No big air bubbles and I adjust the flow with the Cepex ball valve I have on the drain in the stand.
This runs it pretty good and my Vectra L1 pump is running at 60% with the valve on the drain closed nearly half way.
The flow coming back out seems pretty good. There is the main return by the top of the overflow and then there is the second return coming out of the base of the overflow.
I extended the secondary one to almost the center of the tank with an elbow that shoots it toward the front glass.
And then I have the single MP40 on the rear wall on the left side.
The entire surface of my water has movement/ripples.
Here's a couple pics to show the water movement.
The water is quite cloudy. Probably will be until I get rock and sand in there.
On another note, I ran 50ft of Cat6 cable to the mixing station today!
And installed my old GHL Power Bar inside the shed.
Another step closer to getting the ATO working.
Now I can get my level sensor hooked up to the Profilux and hook up the little Cole Parmer peristaltic pump.
OP
OP
Thanks, Rob! :)
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Awesome bro just awesome!
E_Aquatics
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Hi Dennis,
First of all, amazing build so far. Can't wait to see it full of corals and fish!
On a side note, I was in the market for a new grow out light and after seen you were switching to the Mars Hydro I decided to give it a try. Let me tell you, this light is amazing. I have a video showing the growth of my cheato over the past few days and I'll leave it here so you can see it. The light runs for 12hrs and the growth has been phenomenal.
First of all, amazing build so far. Can't wait to see it full of corals and fish!
On a side note, I was in the market for a new grow out light and after seen you were switching to the Mars Hydro I decided to give it a try. Let me tell you, this light is amazing. I have a video showing the growth of my cheato over the past few days and I'll leave it here so you can see it. The light runs for 12hrs and the growth has been phenomenal.
OP
OP
HA! Love it!
You're like the second or third person to tell me they ended up getting the same light and have gotten it running before I have.
I can't wait. ;)
Rotknee
Community Member
Thanks for the insight Dennis. I agree with you regarding the check valve. Like most things in life, they are doomed to fail without routine and proper maintenance. It is also good to know so little water volume drains into the sump.
I also like the way you maintain the clean look of the tank with your placement of the MP40. I’m going to try that along with an MP10 on the opposite side of the tank with the goal creating low and higher flow zones.
So when is the TBS shipment coming?:)
I also like the way you maintain the clean look of the tank with your placement of the MP40. I’m going to try that along with an MP10 on the opposite side of the tank with the goal creating low and higher flow zones.
So when is the TBS shipment coming?:)
oneilwiz
Active Member
@d2mini such a wonderful setup, cant wait to see the final outcome!! Wish I had that tank making it more difficult for me since I will be moving in two weeks and I have been considering upgrading my current tank. Attention to detail is top notch. Curious what type of light do you use for under the cabinet ? This is my current setup for which I must tear down soon. Biggest peptize about my Deep Blue P 75G is the Overflow in the middle of the tank. Unfortunately being a Systems Admin takes away must of my free time.
OP
OP
Soon.... very very soon. ;)
Thanks!@d2mini such a wonderful setup, cant wait to see the final outcome!! Wish I had that tank making it more difficult for me since I will be moving in two weeks and I have been considering upgrading my current tank. Attention to detail is top notch. Curious what type of light do you use for under the cabinet ? This is my current setup for which I must tear down soon. Biggest peptize about my Deep Blue P 75G is the Overflow in the middle of the tank. Unfortunately being a Systems Admin takes away must of my free time.
Very nice tank.... a shame to tear it down.
The light inside the cabinet is just a random cheap led strip I got off amazon a couple years ago with one of those little rgb controllers.
OP
OP
They suggest around 10-12x through the sump.
And the L1 isn't at it's final setting yet. Need to get the adjustable drain pipe back in the overflow when I get the cover for the refugium.
Scottsquatch
Third times a charm?
Double post
Scottsquatch
Third times a charm?
Phone acting really weird. Triple post. Never had that happen before. Sorry.
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