I personally would add a powerhead and/or HOB powerfilter for better water flow/more gas exchange.
Dead quarantine
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I personally would add a powerhead and/or HOB powerfilter for better water flow/more gas exchange.
omykiss001
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The PVC you added is quite small, looks like around 1" or 3/4". You want the stuff made for drains out of your house probably some 2-4" stuff.
This is what I'm using in the tank for my fish while my display is fallow from an ich attack.
This is what I'm using in the tank for my fish while my display is fallow from an ich attack.
No one touched on this, but since your fish are dying a few days later and you have not mentioned any signs of disease, what is your acclimation method? If you are drastically changing pH, salinity or especially temp, you may be stressing the fishes systems to the point that a week or less into qt, they die. That is a very overlooked outcome.
Everyone else seemed to cover the ammonia, oxygen (which was my first guess), and meds issue.
Everyone else seemed to cover the ammonia, oxygen (which was my first guess), and meds issue.
Good luck, I would add a powerheads you can get one on amazon for ten bucks.
Also, I would move the heater closer to your sponge filter, or add another airstone next to the heater so the water is circulating around it
Also, I would move the heater closer to your sponge filter, or add another airstone next to the heater so the water is circulating around it
I rarely use actual rock in a qt. As long as yours was dead and cured, you should not have issues, but I would just use fake coral or plants am pvc. Jmo
When there is any detectable ammonia, change the water. You need an ammonia badge with the copper in there. Or a seachem ammonia test.
Do you have a seachem copper test? You need one, that copper can only be used at a low range, the seachem picks up the levels you need.
If you still have that rock in there it can absorb and release the copper so I would remove it.
Feed so the fish get enough to eat, use air line tubing to suck the leftovers out. Replace the water you remove, use water that already has the same level of copper as in the quarantine so your level doesn't drop
Do you have a seachem copper test? You need one, that copper can only be used at a low range, the seachem picks up the levels you need.
If you still have that rock in there it can absorb and release the copper so I would remove it.
Feed so the fish get enough to eat, use air line tubing to suck the leftovers out. Replace the water you remove, use water that already has the same level of copper as in the quarantine so your level doesn't drop
If you are going to use Cupramine with rock being present, the copper level will go up & down as the rock absorbs it and then leaches it back out. It's hard to know what your copper level truly is doing it this way. Instead of rock, use a HOB powerfilter with bio-media capable of housing nitrifying bacteria which does not absorb copper. Aquaclear powerfilters utilize a foam/sponge insert that is perfect for this.
Wouldn't the sponge filters he is using also help with this?
You could also use one of the bacteria in a bottle additives to help,like Dr time one and only, biospira, or seachem stability
Air driven sponge filters can control ammonia when the QT bio-load is light. Say, one or two small fish. But he's QT'ing a goby, pair of clowns and Hippo tang. The tang is the real "problem" here, as those are pooping machines. Nothing beats the efficiency of an impeller driven bio-filter for moderate to heavy bio-loads in QT.
maroun.c
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My Tank Thread
I learned it the hard way that oxygen levels and ammonia spikes are your worst enemies in quarantine. I make sure to run a skimmer and a large hang on the back filter, observe fish daily for signs of stress:
Rapid breathing
Unbalanced swimming
Reaching out to surface gasping for air
Some diseases like icy can affect the gills and cause mucous secretions or decreased ability to make use of oxygen. Combine this with lower oxygen levels and it's a deadly receipe.
Your fish looked like they were not getting enough oxygen (still hard to tell fro a single pic)
I make frequent water changes in the q tank especially when running medications making sure to dose mess again to keep concentration. I also siphon any remaining food if fish are not aggressively eating.
i make sure to reset the quarantine or run with no fish for weeks between additions (easier when you have multiple quarantines)
And I keep the skimmer on when treating with cupramine but stop it when using prazipro or antibiotics.
Rapid breathing
Unbalanced swimming
Reaching out to surface gasping for air
Some diseases like icy can affect the gills and cause mucous secretions or decreased ability to make use of oxygen. Combine this with lower oxygen levels and it's a deadly receipe.
Your fish looked like they were not getting enough oxygen (still hard to tell fro a single pic)
I make frequent water changes in the q tank especially when running medications making sure to dose mess again to keep concentration. I also siphon any remaining food if fish are not aggressively eating.
i make sure to reset the quarantine or run with no fish for weeks between additions (easier when you have multiple quarantines)
And I keep the skimmer on when treating with cupramine but stop it when using prazipro or antibiotics.
Yes, do not use Prime or ammonia detoxification products.
I believe bacteria products would be ok, maybe Humblefish will chime in on that.
Water pump driven filters? Do you mean the impeller driven filters Humblefish mentioned?
That would be a hang on back type filter, no air pump it uses an impeller to move the water. Check out the aquaclear filters he mentioned, they are my favorite hob filter.
I believe bacteria products would be ok, maybe Humblefish will chime in on that.
Water pump driven filters? Do you mean the impeller driven filters Humblefish mentioned?
That would be a hang on back type filter, no air pump it uses an impeller to move the water. Check out the aquaclear filters he mentioned, they are my favorite hob filter.
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