I do not for fear of an increase of HLLE in some fish according to a couple of studies. But some do and have good luck. I would say that from my research not all Carbon is created equally if you do use carbon use a quality one. Do your research no matter what way you go.
I think that as long as you use a qaulity carbon it will help. I know that it will remove any odor and help with various toxins released by corals. It will help make the water much clearer as well. But i wouldnt go as far as removing nitrates or phosphates.
Activated carbon is that black granular stuff obtainable from the local pet fish store. The product should be marked as suitable for marine use. Having said that, it isn’t an absolute necessity in a marine aquarium. It could be of use or not.
The protein skimmer does a very similar job to activated carbon, which is it removes dissolved organic matter, though it may be that the substances removed differ. In addition activated carbon could be of use after disease treatment in an aquarium to remove any residue of the treatment. Activated carbon also has the same downside as a protein skimmer and that is trace elements are removed from the seawater. Unlike the protein skimmer which just needs regular cleaning, activated carbon has a relatively short life (dependant on seawater content) and should be regularly changed. Once its useful life has finished, and this is when the carbon has adsorbed all it can, it is of no further use and should be replaced with new media. The appearance of the carbon will not indicate the condition.
Activated carbon can be placed in a canister filter, a very effective placement as there is plenty of seawater flow. Some aquarists place it in a bag and put the bag in an area of high flow – this is generally acceptable but there is always a question about how much seawater is actually going through the media. Seawater will take the easier route if possible which means it could be going round the bag.
As already said the carbon could be useful but it is not essential (essential as is, in my view anyway, a protein skimmer). There is a very simple test that could be done to indicate one reason why carbon is needed. Place a small white plate or saucer against one of the aquarium end glasses on the inside, or tape a piece of white paper on the outside. Now view the white object through the end glass at the opposite end of the aquarium. Is there any hint of a yellow tinge? If there is, it is termed ‘gilvin’ and indicates that carbon could be used or, if in use, it should be renewed. If carbon is in use and there isn’t a yellow tinge this does not indicate that the carbon is in good condition. The carbon should be renewed say every three weeks if in permanent use, dependant on the bio-load in the aquarium and the aquarist’s experience of it. This white object test is not an absolute indicator of the need or not for carbon, it is merely an aid.
A better way of using carbon is to use it periodically, say use it for a week then don’t use it for a further one or two weeks. The amount of carbon required for the week is small, and this carbon should be disposed of when the week is over. This way any unwanted substances in the seawater should be removed or partially so, and the amount of desirable trace elements removed should be minimized.
There is another check for the use of carbon, and that is not to use it at all. A check as suggested with a white object can be made after a time and, if all is well and an efficient protein skimmer is in use, if routine seawater changes are completed, if the livestock are healthy and thriving, then there isn’t a need for activated carbon.
in my old 75, I always kept a baggie of Purigen in the overflow box. it supposedly removes nitrates and ammonias from teh water and functions alot like carbon but more selective. you can re-use it over and over as it can be regenerated. I never used much carbon at all and now with the HLLE studies, I am still not keen on carbon.
If you have ammonia in a reef you have major problems and nothing will save you.
If you dont like carbon use polyfilters. They act very similiar to carbon and easier to use.. Also purigen has been mentioned and is a very good product.
Only thing about purigen is it shut down my skimmer when I tried it.
I use carbon in every tank ive owed For the last 20+yrs. And never had anything bad happen to fish or corals and will always use it. It makes my fish look like there floating in air. You can't even tell water is in the tank.
The main reason I use Carbon is to Remove any Chemical Warfare Toxins emited by the Various Corals in my tank, Other than this I see no reason to as long as you are regular with your Water changes. It is also useful in maintaining Crystal clear water and for this reason I see no harm in using it full time, I change mine out monthly.
Bill
Is water not run through carbon for RO/DI systems? If it were to cause HLLE one would think that would be enough exposure to cause the issues anyway. HLLE is common in both saltwater and freshwater fish, and in freshwater has been linked to poor water quality. Carbon improves water quality, so I'm happy to be running it. Just one more opinion.
From what I've read either through studies or from respected reefers, HLLE is caused from the fines released into the water. As long as you don't have any of the actual carbon released into the DT then you should be OK. I keep mine in a filter bag in a reactor with GFO and although it's not as efficient at least it keeps the fines out of my DT.
I rinse my carbon when I do water change. I put output line of the reactor in a 5gal bucket, do this 3x =15g and add new saltwater and bam water change and clean carbon all in one. Lol