DI COLOR CHANGE RESIN

[Johnd651]

Here's the report

https://pennichuck.com/PDF_WQR/PennichuckWaterWorks-Nashua.pdf

 

[TaylorPilot]

Where donI buy the test? Its a chloramines test kit?

These strips will test for both free chlorine (regular chlorine easily removed from most carbon blocks) and Total chlorine (free chlorine plus chloramines). If when you use the test strip both levels are the same, you do not have chloramines. If free levels are lower than the total chlorine, than you have some chloramines.

BRS sales a Lamotte version of the same test, but they didn't work very well for me. These seem to have a better rating, and the color change is more pronouce (atleast in the review photos). You need to test them right after you carbon block before it goes into your RO membrane. If you are getting a positive reading on a new carbon block, then that is probably a big part of your problem.

 

[Jeeperz]

I'm on city water but it comes from a dozen Wells. I have 13-20 ppm co2. This will demolish di resin if it is not aerated heavily before running through the di. Get a Lamotte co2 test for like $30 and check it. I have made close to 800 gallons (35+ gallons a week or more sometimes) or more in the last 8 months, still using all my original spectrapure filters. Call spectrapure, they can help sort you out.

 

[Silent]

Chances are it is the chloramines that are getting the better of your BRS 4 stage RO/DI unit. Unless you have separately ordered the "BRS universal carbon block filter -1 micron" your unit comes with the "BRS VOC 5 Micron Carbon Block" which will be useless in 100 gallons or less. Make the change, its only $16.99

 

[renato120]

Ok. So from what I understand here with all the help.
1 - I need to buy a chlorine test kit
2 - buy a better carbon block
Now if I have high chlorine, what Am I supost to do to lower it.
How about the CO2 what Do I need to do about it?
should I buy a single RODI unit to run double carbon?

 

[renato120]

Yes my current di im using was bought on november 2018. I changed it in around 2019 summer time and still have 1/4 left thats still blue. Getting 0 tds out and 5tds in. I buy my di resin on black friday because of the 15% off @BRS. I have another I just got this past Nov, waiting to go in. 30g rodi a week and last me about 5 months. Im using the brs rodi 150gpd with pressure pump @ 80psi.

This is insane! I use one bottle per 40g and it’s gone.. it gets all brown. TDS reads high..... I need to fix this...

 

[renato120]

These strips will test for both free chlorine (regular chlorine easily removed from most carbon blocks) and Total chlorine (free chlorine plus chloramines). If when you use the test strip both levels are the same, you do not have chloramines. If free levels are lower than the total chlorine, than you have some chloramines.

BRS sales a Lamotte version of the same test, but they didn't work very well for me. These seem to have a better rating, and the color change is more pronouce (atleast in the review photos). You need to test them right after you carbon block before it goes into your RO membrane. If you are getting a positive reading on a new carbon block, then that is probably a big part of your problem.

Will this one works as well?
The one you bought it doesn’t have the prime. Will take a week to be here. this on will arrive next day.

 

[Silent]

Search youtube BRSTv "20x or 50x?" and "Best of 2019? RO/DI upgrades"
This might help you understand ways to save money in the long run. These are 2 great videos to improve RO/DI units.

 

[renato120]

Chances are it is the chloramines that are getting the better of your BRS 4 stage RO/DI unit. Unless you have separately ordered the "BRS universal carbon block filter -1 micron" your unit comes with the "BRS VOC 5 Micron Carbon Block" which will be useless in 100 gallons or less. Make the change, its only $16.99

Which carbon blocker would be The right one?

 

[Silent]

The BRS universal carbon block filter - 1 micron for $16.99

 

[Silent]

Watch the video "20x or 50x?" from Bulk Reef Supply.

 

[sharpimage]

It looks like it is plumbed wrong. The DI goes after the membrane. Yours is before. You need a separate canister. After the membrane into the di

 

[renato120]

Watch the video "20x or 50x?" from Bulk Reef Supply.

I just watched! Good info...

 

[renato120]

It looks like it is plumbed wrong. The DI goes after the membrane. Yours is before. You need a separate canister. After the membrane into the di

My DI is the last canister, carbon is the middle one.

 

[Silent]

Where is your waste line?

 

[renato120]

It looks like it is plumbed wrong. The DI goes after the membrane. Yours is before. You need a separate canister. After the membrane into the di

Here is how it’s setup:
1 Water passes thru the pressure booster pump.
2 goes thru the first canister (sentiment filter)
3 goes to the middle canister ( carbon)
4 goes to the membrane
5 from membrane to the last canister (resin)
6 resin to the water I use for the tanks.
So my DI resin canister it’s the last one before the water goes to the water that goes to my tanks.

 

[renato120]

Where is your waste line?

Waste line goes out to the laundry pipe.

 

[renato120]

Where is your waste line?

 

[Silent]

Waste line goes out to the laundry pipe.

I just don't see it in the pic. I see black line in, blue good water line out, but cant see the waste line.

 

[Silent]

OK, must be blended in with the wall