DI COLOR CHANGE RESIN

[renato120]

I hope this is a chlorine problem! tomorrow I will find out. The test kit should be here by noon.

 

[Thaxxx]

I'm curious to find out.
I just put in all new cartridges and di in my 5 stage goes in @199ppm then after membrane it's 5ppm but only goes down to 4ppm after di. What's up with that? Di is only gaining me 1 less ppm.

 

[TaylorPilot]

I'd check it against a different meter. Di will typically even pull down tap water to 0 tds. It just uses a lot of DI to do it.

 

[Eggs]

Maybe I’m looking at this wrong, but Is your waste line going through the Auto shut-off valve? That’s incorrect if so. May not be the source of the issue but the shut-off valve won’t work correctly.

I would say double check that the waste water tube exiting the membrane is not going into the DI resin by mistake; maybe the membrane exit tubes are reversed?

 

[DanConnor]

Hey- here's a thought: out of the RO he gets 001 tds. Maybe call it good enough? I used only RO back in the day for years....

/flame suit on

 

[renato120]

Hey- here's a thought: out of the RO he gets 001 tds. Maybe call it good enough? I used only RO back in the day for years....

/flame suit on

The issue here is not the 001ppm. Its how fast my DI resin is going to waste. The 001ppm appears in less then 40g of water produced. So much money already wasted....

 

[renato120]

Maybe I’m looking at this wrong, but Is your waste line going through the Auto shut-off valve? That’s incorrect if so. May not be the source of the issue but the shut-off valve won’t work correctly.

I would say double check that the waste water tube exiting the membrane is not going into the DI resin by mistake; maybe the membrane exit tubes are reversed?

I will check on that tomorrow. I believe that’s the right way. Thanks for pointing it up.

 

[Thaxxx]

Hey- here's a thought: out of the RO he gets 001 tds. Maybe call it good enough? I used only RO back in the day for years....

/flame suit on

I agree with this. 1ppm, 0ppm or 5ppm it's good enough.
In most cases just a R.O. is all that is nessasary unless someone has some studies that prove otherwise. Phosphate removal was one biggest reason rodi's were first used for reef tanks. Now there are tons of products most reefers have used to remove excess phosphates. Of course there are other undesirable desolved solids in our water supply.
We get way too anal about some stuff, because we can.

 

[DanConnor]

The issue here is not the 001ppm. Its how fast my DI resin is going to waste. The 001ppm appears in less then 40g of water produced. So much money already wasted....

Yes, I'm bringing up the possibility of not using the di at all

 

[TaylorPilot]

Yes, I'm bringing up the possibility of not using the di at all

The problem with that is ammonia. My understanding is that the DI is the component that removes the ammonia. Also, if you have chloramines, the right carbon blocks will break the ammonia off, bind up the chlorine and let the ammonia pass through it and the RO, then be absorbed by the DI. If your city uses straight chlorine, you may be able to get away with it.

 

[Rogueaquariums]

40 gallons? Something aint right bro.

I go through 300-400g before my resin starts to change and I just bought the triple water saver from BRS.

 

[Silent]

Ive made about 350 gallons of water since my last resin change and it has started to turn colors only about 1/2 inch so far. Its really sad you are going through so much. Hopefully with everyones help we can get this fixed.

 

[renato120]

Yes, I'm bringing up the possibility of not using the di at all

If I don’t use the DI the water reads 131ppm +

 

[renato120]

Ive made about 350 gallons of water since my last resin change and it has started to turn colors only about 1/2 inch so far. Its really sad you are going through so much. Hopefully with everyones help we can get this fixed.

It is really sad. Specially when all of you are making 350g, and cant barely make 40g.

 

[DanConnor]

If I don’t use the DI the water reads 131ppm +

Ah sorry, I must have misread something previously

 

[Thaxxx]

If I don’t use the DI the water reads 131ppm +

I thought you said it was coming out of the membrane at 1ppm.
Where did the 131 ppm come from? If your di is being asked to clean up 131ppm I can see why it's depleting so fast.

 

[Quietman]

What's the pH of your tap? If it's higher, then it's likely not CO2 causing the issue - which is a good thing...most municipal water shouldn't have a CO2 problem.

I used to burn through mixed only slightly under that rate - 60 gallons and I had two smaller canisters of mixed exhausted. High pH (8.2+), High TDS (400 ppm), Chloramine city water.

I installed the 3 stage DI from BRS and now only replace Anion media about every 200 gallons. I have yet to replace the Cation or Mixed after 400 gallons. It might not be great, but I'm much, much happier and the cost is much less.

 

[Silent]

What's the pH of your tap? If it's higher, then it's likely not CO2 causing the issue - which is a good thing...most municipal water shouldn't have a CO2 problem.

I used to burn through mixed only slightly under that rate - 60 gallons and I had two smaller canisters of mixed exhausted. High pH (8.2+), High TDS (400 ppm), Chloramine city water.

I installed the 3 stage DI from BRS and now only replace Anion media about every 200 gallons. I have yet to replace the Cation or Mixed after 400 gallons. It might not be great, but I'm much, much happier and the cost is much less.

Do you use the 1 micron universal carbon block filter?

 

[cromag27]

tl;dr

read my rodi article, link in my signature, and only buy spectrapure products for the most cost savings and efficiency.

 

[TaylorPilot]

tl;dr

read my rodi article, link in my signature, and only buy spectrapure products for the most cost savings and efficiency.

That .02 micron Zeta sediment filter is a game changer. My carbon blocks just don't clog anymore, or even turn a different color. They just eventually stop absorbing chlorine. Everything seems to last much better with a proper sediment filter.