DI COLOR CHANGE RESIN

clm65

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I am by no means an RODI expert. But from what I understand, the RO membrane removes the vast majority of the TDS. The DI resin then basically polishes the clean effluent from the membrane, removing whatever TDS gets past the membrane. The OP is burning through his DI so fast, it seems that one of three possibilities are happening:

1. The dirty RO membrane effluent is routed to the DI canister
2. The water is routed to the DI canister and then to the RO membrane
3. The water is bypassing the RO membrane within the membrane housing, and going straight to DI canister

I'm not sure from the various posts I've read if the OP has actually taken TDS readings at all locations (incoming water, after RO membrane, and after DI). If so, please post those numbers. And a plumbing photo as deepbluesea requested would certainly be helpful. There has to be a reasonable explanation for what is happening.
 

The Aquatic Arsenal

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I would just make sure your tap is going to the sediment filter, then to the carbo block, to the RO membrane, and finally to the DI resin to your collect container. I am really curious as to what the cause is as well.
 

MTBake

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I feel like we aren't getting all the information to correctly help trouble shoot this.

What is you source water tds?

What is the tds after the ro membrane?

What is the tds after the di resin?

Those 3 numbers are critical to see how your system is working. Post them in the order above as that's the order it should flow through your system.

If you do have 131ppm coming out of your membrane, something isn't right with the membrane, flush valve, or perhaps the flow restrictor. And the resin will deplete rapidly.

More pictures on how this system is installed would be good as well. It looks like the waste water line is routed to the auto shut off valve. Which would be incorrect.
 

P-Dub

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The issue here is not the 001ppm. Its how fast my DI resin is going to waste. The 001ppm appears in less then 40g of water produced. So much money already wasted....
I feel you. I have a similar issue. My solution is the simplest and I haven't gone through the process to determine what is the root cause of me blowing through Anion resin but this works for me. Get two more DI canisters. Fill the first in line with Cation resin, the second with Anion Resin, and the last with a mixed bed. Recharge the Anion resin. It is a bit of a pain but the most cost-effective solution I have found. I keep reusing the recharge solution until it is no longer effective. The anion resin can be recharged multiple times but will discharge more rapidly with each recharge until it is no longer effective. After 20 months of recharging, my resin is approaching the point at which I will need to finally buy replacement stock. I have enough to refill my cartridges multiple times and just rotate the stock that I bought in bulk. You must be CAREFUL during the recharge process. The link for the process is below. I just recharge the Anion portion of my resins as that is what I blow through, like you.
 
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renato120

renato120

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Here what the test reads. I say 0 chlorine
939325E3-3538-489F-AA66-F7386CCDFEA8.jpeg
 
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renato120

renato120

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So too make sure the rodi was not hooked up wrong I took it apart and I have no idea on how to put it back. If someone can help me. PM me
 

clm65

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The yellow is waste water. If I was successful, I attached a Spectrapure installation manual for a similar unit. It should help with putting it back together correctly.

Edit: After further review, there isn't much detail on plumbing each component together. Just remember that the water supply goes into the sediment filter ("IN" should be labeled on each canister). Then to the carbon block. Then to the RO membrane, and then to the DI. The only somewhat confusing part is the RO membrane, but the picture in the manual should help with that. And my post below should help with plumbing the auto-shutoff valve.
 

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sean151

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There is a lot to unpack here. Top (yellow) is waste and blue is always treated water. Your carbon to RO connection should need to be routed directly to it and not through the flush kit. Waste needs to go through the flush kit as well, should have a y-connection to control the flushing process off the RO exit as well.
 

clm65

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This should help with installing the shut-off valve.

 

MTBake

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Should go in the following order...

Carbon block to 'in' fitting on asov. Not the side with screws.

Out on the asov should go to the input of the membrane housing. Same side of asov, without screws.

Clean ro water line(the blue fitting in your pic) should go to the 'in' fitting of the asov, this time the side with the screws.

The out fitting of the asov, again the side with screws, then goes to where you want your clean water. I have mine T'd off. One line goes to my pressure tank to feed my fridge and faucet at the sink up stairs. The other line goes through my di for the tanks, which I manually activate via a valve.
 

clm65

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Looking at your pictures...the waste line leaving the RO membrane goes to the auto shutoff valve. Where does it go when it leaves the auto shutoff valve? If that is going to the DI resin...you just found your problem.
 

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