DI COLOR CHANGE RESIN

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renato120

renato120

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It should have lots more water coming out than the clean water hose. 3-4 times as much.

Activate the float and wait a minute or 2. If the water flow doesn't shut off, the auto shut off valve is bad. This is not unexpected. They can fail and should be replaced from time to time.

Do you have a shutoff valve for the ro/di system itself?
Its been 5 minutes and it doesn’t shut off.... I had an extra shut off valve. I switched and nothing changed. Rodi keeps running with the float switch up
 

MTBake

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So I need the restrictor to lower the pressure of the waste line?

It builds pressure throughout the entire system. Without it, water flows freely through the waste water line of the ro membrane housing. It doesn't give the incoming water a chance to filter correctly.
 
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renato120

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Hope
It builds pressure throughout the entire system. Without it, water flows freely through the waste water line of the ro membrane housing. It doesn't give the incoming water a chance to filter correctly.
hopefully this is what is missing to make it work.
 

Buckeye Hydro

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Russ, @Buckeye Hydro, has always been my go to with ro/di issues. I'm sure he'd be able to help here as well.
Be happy to. Oh my goodness. Just read through this entire thread. If the OP'er wasn't confused coming in... I'll bet he is now! OP'er -> please feel free to give us a call when you are in front of the system if you want to put this to bed.

Russ
513-312-2343
 
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renato120

renato120

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Be happy to. Oh my goodness. Just read through this entire thread. If the OP'er wasn't confused coming in... I'll bet he is now! OP'er -> please feel free to give us a call when you are in front of the system if you want to put this to bed.

Russ
513-312-2343
When I get home from work I will give you a call. Thank you so much!!
yes very confusing lol. Very thankful of everyone here trying to help.
 

MTBake

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Be happy to. Oh my goodness. Just read through this entire thread. If the OP'er wasn't confused coming in... I'll bet he is now! OP'er -> please feel free to give us a call when you are in front of the system if you want to put this to bed.

Russ
513-312-2343

Thanks for chiming in, Russ. You explain this stuff better than I ever could.
 

Phyber

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What's the pH of your tap? If it's higher, then it's likely not CO2 causing the issue - which is a good thing...most municipal water shouldn't have a CO2 problem.

I used to burn through mixed only slightly under that rate - 60 gallons and I had two smaller canisters of mixed exhausted. High pH (8.2+), High TDS (400 ppm), Chloramine city water.

I installed the 3 stage DI from BRS and now only replace Anion media about every 200 gallons. I have yet to replace the Cation or Mixed after 400 gallons. It might not be great, but I'm much, much happier and the cost is much less.

Thread hijack;

I have well water, 60 TDS, but high co2. I get about 50g of good 0 TDS water before the di is burnt up.

I have a BRS 4 stage unit. If I add the triple di setup, I'd likely only be replacing the anion resin as co2 kills it? Since it's pure anion vs mixed bed, would I get double the output before exhaustion? And once exhausted, would the other di stages keep product water at 0 TDS?
 

Buckeye Hydro

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Findings so far:
*Concentrate tube was plumbed to the DI
Fix: Re-plumb unit correctly
*Very low system pressure even with booster pump. Found that system did not have a flow restrictor.
Fix: Install flow restrictor sized for cold feedwater in NH.

Russ
 

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