DI COLOR CHANGE RESIN

[renato120]

I

It's the top one in your pic.

everything is how it’s suppose to be. My pressure booster it’s not working. I might as well just quit. This isn’t for me

 

[MTBake]

You also need 2 check valves for the asov to function correctly.

One between the asov(out, side without screws) and input of the ro membrane with flow heading towards the ro membrane.

The second should be between the clean water coming from the ro membrane and the asov(in, side with screws) with flow heading towards the asov.

 

[GSnake]

I

everything is how it’s suppose to be. My pressure booster it’s not working. I might as well just quit. This isn’t for me

eBay or amazon
My local frag shop has good prices on equipment etc. Im sure there's something local for you to find

 

[clm65]

Before you give up, please humor me and tell me where the blue line leaving the left side of the shutoff valve is going.

And everything is NOT as it is supposed to be. You have your waste water going to your shutoff valve. Not that that by itself will cause the DI to be depleted quickly, but it shows that your plumbing in not 100% correct. So please answer the above question.

 

[renato120]

Before you give up, please humor me and tell me where the blue line leaving the left side of the shutoff valve is going.

And everything is NOT as it is supposed to be. You have your waste water going to your shutoff valve. Not that that by itself will cause the DI to be depleted quickly, but it shows that your plumbing in not 100% correct. So please answer the above question.

The blue line is coming out of the membrane and going to the DI canister

 

[renato120]

The black line comes out of the 2nd canister (carbon) and goes thru top In and out to the Asov and connects to the membrane

 

[MTBake]

Russ, @Buckeye Hydro, has always been my go to with ro/di issues. I'm sure he'd be able to help here as well.

 

[renato120]

You also need 2 check valves for the asov to function correctly.

One between the asov(out, side without screws) and input of the ro membrane with flow heading towards the ro membrane.

The second should be between the clean water coming from the ro membrane and the asov(in, side with screws) with flow heading towards the asov.

Like this:

 

[MTBake]

Like this:

Yes. The second check valve is only needed if you have a pressure tank for the ro water.

 

[MTBake]

The black line comes out of the 2nd canister (carbon) and goes thru top In and out to the Asov and connects to the membrane

That is correct. As long as it is going to the side of the membrane housing with one single fitting.

 

[renato120]

Yes. The second check valve is only needed if you have a pressure tank for the ro water.

So I don’t need the second check valve?

 

[clm65]

Ok, thanks for clarifying that the blue line leaving the shutoff valve goes to the DI. In the pic below, which you provided earlier, shows the line from the yellow fitting on the RO housing going to the shutoff valve. If this is the arrangement you had since day one, you were sending waste water to the DI. This would cause your DI to be depleted quickly. It looks like you have corrected that in your recent pictures. I think you are on your way to resolving this.

 

[MTBake]

So I don’t need the second check valve?

Only if you have a pressure tank for drinking water. The pressure of that tank would send the water backwards through the system while it was off if there is not a check valve.

The way you have it now looks correct to me.

 

[renato120]

Ok, thanks for clarifying that the blue line leaving the shutoff valve goes to the DI. In the pic below, which you provided earlier, shows the line from the yellow fitting on the RO housing going to the shutoff valve. If this is the arrangement you had since day one, you were sending waste water to the DI. This would cause your DI to be depleted quickly. It looks like you have corrected that in your recent pictures. I think you are on your way to resolving this.

I just turned on the rodi, and the waste line has so much water coming out. I don’t think this is right. When I pull the float valve. Nothing stops. Rodi waste water continues with the water

 

[MTBake]

Another question I'd like to ask is; where is your flow restrictor on the waste water line? There needs to be one. There's 2 types, barrel and capillary. The barrel type are obvious as can be. They look like this...

It's the larger white round thing with 550 and an arrow on it.

This is a capillary...

These fit inside of a push to connect hose and go into a fitting. You wont know it's there unless you look for it.

 

[renato120]

The booster pump it’s not working either. No pressure

 

[MTBake]

I just turned on the rodi, and the waste line has so much water coming out. I don’t think this is right. When I pull the float valve. Nothing stops. Rodi waste water continues with the water

It should have lots more water coming out than the clean water hose. 3-4 times as much.

Activate the float and wait a minute or 2. If the water flow doesn't shut off, the auto shut off valve is bad. This is not unexpected. They can fail and should be replaced from time to time.

Do you have a shutoff valve for the ro/di system itself?

 

[MTBake]

The booster pump it’s not working either. No pressure

Can you bypass it? See how much pressure gets to the system without it. Perhaps it isn't needed.

 

[renato120]

Another question I'd like to ask is; where is your flow restrictor on the waste water line? There needs to be one. There's 2 types, barrel and capillary. The barrel type are obvious as can be. They look like this...

It's the larger white round thing with 550 and an arrow on it.

This is a capillary...

These fit inside of a push to connect hose and go into a fitting. You wont know it's there unless you look for it.

I don’t have either of those. Is that why my waste water has so much water pressure going tongue drain?

 

[renato120]

Can you bypass it? See how much pressure gets to the system without it. Perhaps it isn't needed.

20psi