Dino Identification and Attack Plan

apb03

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Hey Everyone! I've been dealing with Dino for a couple of months now and it's time to take action, but I want to make sure I have a good idea of which Dino I'm dealing with.

I picked up a Microscope and took a photo of what I have:
dinos_0728.jpg


Could someone help me ID which Dino this is? I think it's Amphidinium, but not 100% sure. I plan on purchasing a UV sterilizer, however, it seems that won't help with Amphidinium, so I'm not sure what the best approach is.

The above specimen in the photo moves quite quickly and darts in an almost zig-zag type of motion. In my tank, it only covers the sand and looks quite similar to Cyano or even Diatoms. I don't get any snotty bubbles or anything like that, just an ugly red/brown coating that clears up when the lights go out.

Open to any suggestions on how I should approach this. My Parameters are:

Phosphate .23
Nitrate 25
Alk 9.3
Temp : 78
pH : 8.2 at peak 8.0 at low
Mag 1390
Calc 500
Salinity 35ppt

I've always run higher nutrients and never bottomed out. I test a lot. So far I haven't done much beyond vacuuming the sand bed. For filtration, I use a Reefmat, a Nyos Skimmer, Chaeto Refugium, and run Phosguard in a reactor (this issue was happening before I introduced Phosguard). I change 10-15% of my water per week.

Thank you all for your help!
 

vetteguy53081

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Looks like procentrum dino which easily can colonize and caused in part by biological deficiencies.
Starving them of light which is a fuel source for them and overcoming the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive will be key.
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide which acts as an oxidizer per 10 gallons for all 5 nights even up to 7 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX
Its odd to see your nitrate readings and po4 readings which are elevated as they are and have dino as dino consumes the po4 and no3 and then multiplies.
 
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apb03

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vetteguy53081

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Thank you very much! I was planning on doing that exact plan, as well. I do have a lot of SPS and LPS corals, so I'll keep it at 10-15% on blue.
Yes and you can utilize ambient room light for feeding. Go with the 10% blue and see how the corals are holding up
 
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apb03

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Yes and you can utilize ambient room light for feeding. Go with the 10% blue and see how the corals are holding up

I'll get started tonight. Should I consider getting a UV Sterilizer as well, or hold off until the 7 days are through?
 
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apb03

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More examples with video

20230728_192758.jpg
 

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JoJosReef

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Hard to tell. The ones in the middle almost have the amphidinium "beak" don't they? I originally thought prorocentrum.

UV will help partially, but not fully unless you disturb them into the water column, like a blackout. Then UV will fry them.
 
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apb03

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Figured I'd record my ongoing progress here in case others want to follow in the future.

Day 1:

- Lights on at 10% with blues only
- Removed Phosguard
- Replaced carbon in the reactor. 2 cups
- Added 13ml H202 at 10pm last night
- Added 13ml of MB7 this morning at 10am
Water Parameters

Alk 9.2
Phosphate 16.1
Nitrate 23.2
Salinity 35
Temp 78
Notes:

- Corals look fine
- Will purchase a Lifegard 55w UV today. Will probably run in line with the return. If I need to run lower GPH to fight the dinos specifically, I'll turn down the return during the Dino fight. Will see how it goes
- Considering increasing temperature to 83F

Photo (sorry for the bad photo, no whites on)

dino_day1.jpg
 

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