Dinoflagellates id help

Gregpetro

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Please see attached pictures. My tank is a little under a year old. My cheato stripped my tank to 0 phos 0 nit and boom dinoflagellates. I am dosing nit and phos and have them at around 3ppm nit and .03 ppm phos. Manuals removed the binos and put my uv sterilizer in the tank at a slow gpm. My question is can anyone I'd this dino. The only thing that was really noticeable was how much they spun around when looking at them in a microscope. Any help would be great.

20230504_200650.jpg 20230504_200636.jpg 20230423_160910.jpg
 
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Gregpetro

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Here is a video if it helps.
 

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Gregpetro

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Can anyone give me a second opinion on what I think is Ostreopsis
 

vetteguy53081

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Please see attached pictures. My tank is a little under a year old. My cheato stripped my tank to 0 phos 0 nit and boom dinoflagellates. I am dosing nit and phos and have them at around 3ppm nit and .03 ppm phos. Manuals removed the binos and put my uv sterilizer in the tank at a slow gpm. My question is can anyone I'd this dino. The only thing that was really noticeable was how much they spun around when looking at them in a microscope. Any help would be great.

20230504_200650.jpg 20230504_200636.jpg 20230423_160910.jpg
Appears to be Large cell amphidium. Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them
 
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Gregpetro

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Incase anyone is following this thread I wanted to give an update. After raising my nitrates and phosphate to a detectable level nit 5ppm phos .036 I began running a uv in my tank for about 2 weeks. My tank is a 20g IM aio with about 13.5 gallons of actual water in it. I put the uv in the tank its the IM 11w model with the pump set to its slowest setting. Ran it just like that with a reduced lighting cycle and I would say knocked back the dinoflagellates about 75% and just held them there. Then I noticed what I think was a different type of dinoflagellates or creeping up. The problem seemed to stay steady unless I killed the lights or manually removed it. My buddy had used dr tims dino method in the past and turned me onto it. I am currently in the last day of the 3 day black out period while dosing Dr tims refresh. Tomorrow I will be turning the lights back on and starting the 7 days of dosing waste away. I have to say at this point the tank has never looked this clean when I peek in the tank to dose the re fresh. I'll let you guys know how it turns out once it's finished. I'll post a picture tomorrow when I take off the covering. One thing to note I do still run the us I just turn it off for 12 hours post dosing.
 
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Gregpetro

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I realize after the uv seemed to not be affecting it that well what my ID may of been off. I am currently trying the dr tims method as ot follows the same idea of good bacteria killing the bad. If that does not work i will try the method you have described. Thank you for the help!
 
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Gregpetro

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The microbacter 7 is good stuff.
I feel like Mico 7 and refresh are essential the same thing lots of good bacteria to out compete the bad. I have heard a lot of good things about micro 7 tho.
 

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