Dinos becoming a problem... what now

[anthonygf]

This is what I use,
AquaClear Quick Filter A-575 Powerhead Attachment (fits most sizes AquaClear Powerheads)

 

[JosephM]

I would assume any cheap DC pump will be fine. I used a Jebao and then I can use it as a backup etc later.

The UV lamp is housed in a quartz sleeve. I suppose if you had tons of sand flying around it could theoretically scratch up the court sleeve and make it less effective. I wouldn't be concerned about whatever they said regarding before or after filtration.

Just bought the jebao 36w and a jebao pump rated for up to 524 gph. I already have leftover 3/4” tubing so I think I’m set. Now just time to wait for it to come in. Thank you for all the help. Would you say 250gph is a good starting point

 

[zalick]

Just bought the jebao 36w and a jebao pump rated for up to 524 gph. I already have leftover 3/4” tubing so I think I’m set. Not just time to wait for it to come in. Thank you for all the help. Would you say 250gph is a good starting point

This is where it gets a little tricky because each UV is different and you can't compare one brand to another despite the same or similar watt rating. But yes, I think 250gph will likely be perfect with that unit.

 

[JosephM]

This is where it gets a little tricky because each UV is different and you can't compare one brand to another despite the same or similar watt rating. But yes, I think 250gph will likely be perfect with that unit.

Awesome. How would I tell if it is too much or too little flow, if there's even a way to tell...

 

[zalick]

Awesome. How would I tell if it is too much or too little flow, if there's even a way to tell...

Most UV makers have a chart indicating how much UV exposure there is at a series of flows for that particular unit. You want to target 90,000 or preferably 180,000. I believe its linear, so if 200gph gives you 90,000 then 100 gph will give you 180,000.

Each manufacturer makes the units differently so there will be different flow/exposure rates even if the watts look relatively the same as other units.

I've seen a general rule of thumb of 10gph/watt for level 2 sterilization.

There should be a minimum flow listed on the manual it comes with. This minimum is necessary to keep the bulb cool. There is also a maximum flow. Hopefully the Jebao will have a chart. If not, stick with 200-250gph as your target.

 

[JosephM]

Dinos are slowly going away with raised nutrients and manual remover. I got a 36w UV in today. I know I didn’t want to go that route but it seems the only fool-proof way. It was a pain to install and looks horrible but it is what it is. Currently running just over 200gph through it

 

[zalick]

Dinos are slowly going away with raised nutrients and manual remover. I got a 36w UV in today. I know I didn’t want to go that route but it seems the only fool-proof way. It was a pain to install and looks horrible but it is what it is. Currently running just over 200gph through it

I think they'll be gone before you know it! one thing to watch out for with the UV hung there is to make sure there are no tiny little leaks that will be dripping behind the tank.

I bet you'll be done with this in 7 days and can take it offline.

 

[JosephM]

I think they'll be gone before you know it! one thing to watch out for with the UV hung there is to make sure there are no tiny little leaks that will be dripping behind the tank.

I bet you'll be done with this in 7 days and can take it offline.

Let’s hope! There was a tiny leak, I put two clamps on both sides just for redundancy. Thank you for all the help

 

[Crustaceon]

Just a thought here, but a good way of dealing with dinos is by encouraging the growth of microbial competition. Essentially we want to create a better environment for one critter in order to keep another at bay. Your nitrate and phosphate level looks fine BUT something’s missing and dinos have taken root. I’ll bet that missing aspect is a bacterial population that would normally encapsulate the sand and prevent dinos from having a habitat. I’ve actually dealt with a similar scenario by intentionally inducing a slight bacterial bloom with a little bit if vodka while heavily feeding to maintain nutrient levels. I kept this up for a week and no more dinos.

 

[JosephM]

Just a thought here, but a good way of dealing with dinos is by encouraging the growth of microbial competition. Essentially we want to create a better environment for one critter in order to keep another at bay. Your nitrate and phosphate level looks fine BUT something’s missing and dinos have taken root. I’ll bet that missing aspect is a bacterial population that would normally encapsulate the sand and prevent dinos from having a habitat. I’ve actually dealt with a similar scenario by intentionally inducing a slight bacterial bloom with a little bit if vodka while heavily feeding to maintain nutrient levels. I kept this up for a week and no more dinos.

Thats essentially what I’m doing using MB7, dosing, and feeding heavily. I don’t have access to vodka as I’m underage and parents don’t drink like that. I’m sure that’s my issue too, between that with it being a new tank and P04 and N03 dropping out. As stated earlier my dinos were decreasing in pop quite well with what i was doing but I already had the UV on its way so I came to the conclusion that it’ll probably just help speed it up and I can keep it on hand when needed again.