Diving into SPS

[ryboy707]

I have a 29 gallon biocube with nano box large retrofit kit, just so I can handle SPS in my tank. Tank has been running since new yrs day, and I finally got phosphates, nitrates down to practically nothing, calcium is 430, alk is 10.1, and magnesium is 1440 per Red sea test kits. Salinity is 35ppt. I bought a tiny frag of superman entcrusting montipora yesterday, and I'm wondering if my water parameters are good enough to keep sps growing and colorful. Any help is greatly appreciated, thnx.

 

[mcarroll]

Those numbers look fine, but stability of those numbers is where you'll find success (or not). :) If you can afford dosers to automate all the fluids you add to the tank, that's definitely the best way to go....even water changes.

I ran my stony reef for several years dosing by hand through a DIY dripper....grew lots of great corals, but the slower-growing ones would take a long time to recover from the minor dips in parameters that would happen even though I was very religious about dosing every day. This is a sample of a couple of those years:

As nice as it was for the Monti's and Birdsnests, etc that grew like weeds up and out of the water.....I don't think the more-sensitive slower-growing stony corals would like this environment too much.....dosers might be an actual requirement.

 

[Gpettit721]

Based on what how posted you should be able too keep them alive but just to clarify on phosphates and nitrates being practically nothing... What are the specifically? As far as colorful and beautiful that's s very loaded answer. Stability stability stability and when you think your tank is stable strive for it to be even more stable.... I'll probably get shot for saying this but having zero phosphate and zero nitrate isn't the end all for Sps... Elevated levels will harm but I've found that just barely detectable levels seem to be a pretty good happy medium...

 

[ryboy707]

Ok so I just checked nitrate and phosphate since I haven't checked it in about 4 days. I just checked magnesium, calcium, and alk last night when I put the frag in. Nitrates are at zero still, but phosphates have shot back up to 1.6 according to this red sea test kit. I had it down to .04 a few days ago. I guess it's time to change the chemical pure elite again, even though I just changed it 3 weeks ago.

 

[Gpettit721]

Yea that's way to high. 0.04 is on the high end of acceptable IMO. I'd say get it back down to those levels or even double check it. Then add something that is hardy. Where are you located?

 

[Gpettit721]

I'll send you something of you pay shipping just because I wanted to give it a shot. I have a lot of red planet and some other things that have been accidentally dragged.

 

[Diesel]

Mmmm!
No3 is 0.0?
Po4 is 0.04 and four days later 1.6?
No3 are needed to keep SPS fed, when no or low No3 you'll starve them, not only SPS but your other corals too.
What test kit you use for No3?
I see you use Redsea for Po4, not bad but look around local or at your LFS if you can test with a Hanna low checker.
On a side note, looking at your ALK of 10+ If you keep nutrients low bring down your ALK too, at least to 8.5 or below that but not lower than 7.5

 

[ryboy707]

Right on! I'm located in Hillsboro, Oregon

 

[ryboy707]

Oh and I am using red sea test kits for all my tests. I'm wondering if I just feed a bit more if that would bring nitrates up slightly to a more healthy level?

 

[Diesel]

That's one way of doing it.
Do you run any nutrients reducing media?

 

[ryboy707]

In the back I have the intank media basket with filter floss on top, purigen in midde, and chemi pure elite on bottom, then I have a tunze 9001 skimmer and underneath that I have some chaeto. I have been dosing nopox for that last 2 weeks trying to get my nitrates and phosphates down. I discovered that the very first back chamber was collecting a lot of uneaten food so I put one of my hermits back there, and he has kept the floor of that first chamber spotless!!! I also started dosing red sea reef energy part A and B, and Aqua Vitro fuel.

 

[Diesel]

You reduce nutrients and you add back in............. if this was a large tank 150G or bigger I would say do the challenge but a biocube.
Get a cheap easy frag from your LFS for $10 or so if it grows and stay alive four 4 months and keeps it's color or improves the color that your good for 2 or 3 more.

 

[ryboy707]

Lol, I can see the irony in that, I guess I'm trying to find that delicate balance of nutrient import vs nutrient export, please excuse my ignorance. I am new to reefing, this is my first reef tank, and my goal with this biocube is to gain the experience and knowledge to be able to maintain good water quality and be successful at keeping a healthy mixed reef for at least a yr before pulling the trigger on a large system. This was supposed to be a cheap first tank, but so far I'm about 4 grand into this little thing,lol.

 

[Diesel]

Lol, I can see the irony in that, I guess I'm trying to find that delicate balance of nutrient import vs nutrient export, please excuse my ignorance. I am new to reefing, this is my first reef tank, and my goal with this biocube is to gain the experience and knowledge to be able to maintain good water quality and be successful at keeping a healthy mixed reef for at least a yr before pulling the trigger on a large system. This was supposed to be a cheap first tank, but so far I'm about 4 grand into this little thing,lol.

And there's nothing wrong with that.
As I said try a cheap frag from your LFS and gain knowledge.
Mean while post your findings as a log in a build threat https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/member-tanks.52/
That's the faster way to learn and before you know it you got some great SPS going.
WoW $4K on a cube :eek:

 

[Gpettit721]

Smaller tanks are much much more challenging than a larger system.... I'd be more than happy to send you some red planet that has been doing well in my system. 60 cube two months old but done right... If you pay shipping I'll take care of it.

 

[Gpettit721]

Also have some Tierra Del feugo that I could send you as well or Ora green planet or an unknown that is absolutely gorgeous but seems to be more sensitive than the red planet.

 

[Gpettit721]

I don't have a ton but I'd be more than happy to help out

 

[DamianOZ]

Mmmm!
No3 is 0.0?
Po4 is 0.04 and four days later 1.6?
No3 are needed to keep SPS fed, when no or low No3 you'll starve them, not only SPS but your other corals too.

Rubbish

I see you use Redsea for Po4, not bad but look around local or at your LFS if you can test with a Hanna low checker.

Agree, assuming your meaning the Hanna Phosphorous ULR tester. not their PO4 tester.

On a side note, looking at your ALK of 10+ If you keep nutrients low bring down your ALK too, at least to 8.5 or below that but not lower than 7.5

I agree, 10dKh is too high for a tank with low P04 and or NO3, I also feel 8.5 dKh is high although I don't feel there is any advantage unless that is what your replacement water test at, however lots do run with high alk. I run lower than 7.5dKh, typically between 6.5 and 7 but at low as 6 at times. IMO, 7 dKH or 125ppm is a good starting point, and work from their.

 

[DamianOZ]

Smaller tanks are much much more challenging than a larger system.... I'd be more than happy to send you some red planet that has been doing well in my system. 60 cube two months old but done right... If you pay shipping I'll take care of it.

Which I could trade with you :)

FWIW, I don't feel small is more challenging, only in being able to fit equipment. as for maintenance, I feel they can be easier. With in reason.... 20g to 50g is a easier than 200g, you just need more accurate dosing.

 

[Gpettit721]

I would disagree.... My 190 was much easier than my 60 cube