DIY 20g Long Sump Layout

CoopsCoralReef

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Hey everyone,

Just wanted to get some opinions or someone to verify that the layout I have planned for a new sump for my Reefer 250 is adequate. I am thinking of switching to the triton method, and have given the refugium approximately 6.5 gallons, which would equate to about 12% of water volume. I’ve also dimensioned both my skimmer and return pump to ensure they fit in their respective chambers. Total water volume would be about 12-13 gallons, leaving plenty left in case of back siphoning.

f9d3c96c02b9f01021d6625f3ed588f9.jpg
 

Crabs McJones

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Looks pretty good to me :) Only thing I would consider is take a measurement of your heater and make sure it'll fit in one of the chambers, preferably the skimmer or return pump chamber. Or even in the intake, just so long as it's not the refugium. Made that mistake with my first sump and ended up having to put the heater in the refugium and I hated it.
 
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CoopsCoralReef

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I run my heater diagonally as well and it will be in the chamber with the skimmer. Good idea on losing the first baffle. It’s not necessary.

From what I have read, the triton method does not recommend filter socks. It removes too many of the fine particulates that corals and anemones like to eat. I will be keeping my current sump in case this one does not work out.
 

Crabs McJones

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IMG_20180108_183756.jpg

This is my layout. I have a large skimmer, so I put it in the first section. The second will be my refugium and the right is my pump return.
Is that the sump kit from Modular Marine? If so how do you like it and was it fairly easy to install? Any issues?
 

Will Milberger

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Yes it is. Very straightforward and well built. You can order with or without the hose bracket. No issues. Should have put in the pic of the long wise. It has the Modular Marine Sticker.
 

mcarroll

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Run it as one large refugium chamber with a Tunze 9004 DC in the refugium section, or even up in the tank.

Could even add a Tunze filter module so you effectively have a Reefpack 250. (A place for your heater to hide, runs media, more.)
 
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CoopsCoralReef

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Would anyone see any issues using 3/16” glass for the baffles? I was planning on just ordering the 4 pieces I need and siliconing them in place. I have noticed some baffles include slots in the middle of them. Are these necessary?
 

Octane13

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I have glass baffles with no issues. Does somewhat restrict flow to the fuge section but I just tumble my chaeto during a water changes so it grows evenly, probably not needed.
 

Octane13

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I run my heater diagonally as well and it will be in the chamber with the skimmer. Good idea on losing the first baffle. It’s not necessary.

From what I have read, the triton method does not recommend filter socks. It removes too many of the fine particulates that corals and anemones like to eat. I will be keeping my current sump in case this one does not work out.

Personally I would get some thin mesh socks at a minimum just to keep large particulate out. I know I feed heavy and my sand gets blown around a lot so my socks are gross after a few days. I could only imagine my nutrient levels if I didn't have them.
 
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CoopsCoralReef

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Personally I would get some thin mesh socks at a minimum just to keep large particulate out. I know I feed heavy and my sand gets blown around a lot so my socks are gross after a few days. I could only imagine my nutrient levels if I didn't have them.

This is something I will consider. I do plan on putting some kind of mesh/foam in the baffles past the skimmer. Nothing too fine, as I do not want to remove too much particulate.
 
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CoopsCoralReef

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How much distance should I leave between the edge of the aquarium glass and the end of the baffle for siliconing? 1/8” on each side?
 

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