DIY LED Spectrum

[HarryC]

I'm an electrical engineering student who also needs a lighting upgrade soon. I've got an opportunity over the next two semesters to improve any electrical product of my choosing, improve the design, and build my improved design. I'm going to do a fairly basic programmable light with wifi features, probably use a raspberry pi or arduino for the brain. Not exactly sure what route I want to go yet with LED chips. I'm drawn to the Phillips Luxeon products, but curious what more experienced builders think.

I wanted to post this mock up spectrum and see what people thought of it. I've got a 30" cube with a lot of overhangs casting shadows so I am wanting this build to be overpowered and have a very spread out layout for the arrays. If I end up changing anything it would probably be to use the Luxeon C series for everything, but they're not available on the simulator I'm currently using. If anyone has chips/drivers that should be on my radar, feel free to share them.

 

[Operator Wrasse]

There's two hills that I'm going to die on with this hobby; pH is the most important "nutrient" to have stable and that spectrum is more important than PAR. Personally, I would attempt to mimic Ecotech's AB+ spectrum or Kessil's Tuna Blue, then make adjustments. I'm a bigger fan of Kessil's spectrum and Reefbrite has the best color pop, in my opinion, with a sharp actinic peak at 540nm. I know there is also a UV/Violet mixed in with Reefbrites, I just can't give you a specific wavelength because I believe it's part of their trade secret.

 

[oreo54]

I'm an electrical engineering student who also needs a lighting upgrade soon. I've got an opportunity over the next two semesters to improve any electrical product of my choosing, improve the design, and build my improved design. I'm going to do a fairly basic programmable light with wifi features, probably use a raspberry pi or arduino for the brain. Not exactly sure what route I want to go yet with LED chips. I'm drawn to the Phillips Luxeon products, but curious what more experienced builders think.

I wanted to post this mock up spectrum and see what people thought of it. I've got a 30" cube with a lot of overhangs casting shadows so I am wanting this build to be overpowered and have a very spread out layout for the arrays. If I end up changing anything it would probably be to use the Luxeon C series for everything, but they're not available on the simulator I'm currently using. If anyone has chips/drivers that should be on my radar, feel free to share them.

You can import spectrums quite easily if you want..
Webplotdigitizer to get data.
Notepad++ to clean data and generate a txt file.
Need to start at 380 no matter.
attached an example below of luxeon z diodes.

 

[damsels are not mean]

I think most of the big fixture manufacturers use mostly cree and semiled. Mine are all cree now and no complaints. I used to have luxeons as well for some extra colors but I redid the fixture recently and simplified the channels by removing those as I didn't find them necessary.


I think royal blue is probably the most important color as that peak lines up with the peak for one of the chlorophylls so I would definitely include that. The standard "blue" is where most corals fluoresce the most. Really up to you though. A lot of popular actinic bulbs peak there too, not a coincidence.

 

[Yodeling]

IMHO, the Semileds are a good choice, but I personally would add some 420-430s (and maybe drop the 390s or 410s if you want to save a driver/channel). For RB, I prefer Luxeon (ES, M, or K if you can find still them), or Cree XT-E. To my eye, the Phillips tend to run a bit "purpler" than the Crees, but they should both be in the 450nm ballpark.

The blue is fine, and the cyan/green will balance out your spectrum nicely with so many violets. I would totally drop the reds and ambers and throw some warm white in there instead. I'm not a fan of reds. The luxeon 4000k is ok, but personally I would go warmer and higher CRI. Bridgelux makes some nice high CRI COBs.

Just my opinion.

Btw, I've been building DIY LED fixtures since 2014(ish) for all my tanks. Initially to save costs, but it actually ends up costing about the same as mid/high-end vendor fixtures LOL. My latest one runs on a DIY ESP32 controller using my own custom code with an imitation AI GUI, and using 32 drivers to power 6 channels.

Good luck.

 

[HarryC]

Hey guys thanks for stopping by. See a couple names I recognize from reading through all the LED threads I could find on here. @oreo5457 this is so helpful and I'm going to give it a shot later on in the week when I get home from the coast. I did end up placing an order for a bunch of chips from Mouser to start testing/playing with. Was really happy to be able to get the exact BIN I wanted for the violets, which are kind of the key to this spectrum. I also really appreciate the input on spectrum from both you guys @Yodeling @damsels are not mean. If I had to choose a spectrum I was trying to replicate it would be the new Orphek Icon. I was really interested to read Dana's writeup on it and the potential benefits from a small bit of red spectrum. I'm planning on running this channel close to as low as I possibly can. I was also trying to get my 460blue peak from the 5W LZ1-00B's then a combination of the cyan's and mint luxeon C's. I'll have a better idea exactly what I want to mix once I get the data I need into that Spectra program.

This is going to be the first rough draft for the fixture. I'm still learning about choosing power supplies and drivers, but think I have a general idea what I'll end up getting. I'm going to post this initial plan below and I'll update it once I've updated the Spectra program setup to have data for the chips I want.


Could you guys help me out with power supplies/drivers? Seems like the info I'm seeing on Steve's LED is to go pretty small on the string, the info in the datasheet seems like you could get more than his suggested 8 Luxeon 3W's on a Meanwell LDD-H. I'm worried I'm miscalculating and putting too many 5W LZ1's on some of these drivers. Also, if I have a variety of constant currents I'm trying to run, can I use a single power supply and circuitry to cut the current for each respective driver? On the subject of constant currents, I could also use some clarification on Datasheets. The LZ1 green for example lists a max current of 1500mA in one place, but then in other places lists most values with a 1000mA current. What size driver would be ideal for these chips? I'm going way oversized on power and think the highest channel (460) will peak around 80%

Thanks again!

 

[TDEcoral]

Did you already go through the DIY LED thread? https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/general-diy-led-thread.534238/

I'd look at the ESP8266 or ESP32 for control, but there's also the Coralux Storm X if you want an off the self option. I noticed that Reefbreeders uses the ESP32 on their upgrade board.

Reef Nexus Integration Kit - ReefBreeders.com

The all new Reef Nexus Integration Kit allows you to fully control your Photon V2 and V2+ via our Reef Nexus App

reefbreeders.com

As you've noted, the Luxeon C are a good choice of diode. I think the newer Phillips CoralCare uses all Luxeon C. The Luxeon Rebel is also good. I usually under-drive my diodes because it's more efficient and increases their lifespan, so IMO there's nothing wrong with running a diode at 1000ma if it's rate for 1500ma. The 1000ma for the LZ1 is probably what they were tested at while the 1500ma is their max. Both the LDD-H and LDD-L are popular, simple, and cheap drivers. The Meanwell LRS series is a good choice for power supply. Just calculate your max voltage for each string on a driver and total amperage then choose a PS that's got a higher rating. I use the LRS-350-48 because I'm using the Luxeon K16 which run at 44v (I think) and I have 6 channels (drivers) that max at 1000ma so I needed a PS that had at least 6 amps. The LRS-350-48 has a max of 7.3 amps and 48 volts, so that's what I went with. It's been a while since I put my lights together and I'm a little rusty, so I hope I got all that correct.

Also,Coralux has these driver boards which are very convenient. You can find similar boards elsewhere or even have your own printed from a place like JLCPCB using preexisting designs that have been shared on various threads and forums. I've saved quite a few if you need them.

LDD-5 Driver Board | CORALUX

 

[oreo54]

Hey guys thanks for stopping by. See a couple names I recognize from reading through all the LED threads I could find on here. @oreo5457 this is so helpful and I'm going to give it a shot later on in the week when I get home from the coast. I did end up placing an order for a bunch of chips from Mouser to start testing/playing with. Was really happy to be able to get the exact BIN I wanted for the violets, which are kind of the key to this spectrum. I also really appreciate the input on spectrum from both you guys @Yodeling @damsels are not mean. If I had to choose a spectrum I was trying to replicate it would be the new Orphek Icon. I was really interested to read Dana's writeup on it and the potential benefits from a small bit of red spectrum. I'm planning on running this channel close to as low as I possibly can. I was also trying to get my 460blue peak from the 5W LZ1-00B's then a combination of the cyan's and mint luxeon C's. I'll have a better idea exactly what I want to mix once I get the data I need into that Spectra program.

This is going to be the first rough draft for the fixture. I'm still learning about choosing power supplies and drivers, but think I have a general idea what I'll end up getting. I'm going to post this initial plan below and I'll update it once I've updated the Spectra program setup to have data for the chips I want.


Could you guys help me out with power supplies/drivers? Seems like the info I'm seeing on Steve's LED is to go pretty small on the string, the info in the datasheet seems like you could get more than his suggested 8 Luxeon 3W's on a Meanwell LDD-H. I'm worried I'm miscalculating and putting too many 5W LZ1's on some of these drivers. Also, if I have a variety of constant currents I'm trying to run, can I use a single power supply and circuitry to cut the current for each respective driver? On the subject of constant currents, I could also use some clarification on Datasheets. The LZ1 green for example lists a max current of 1500mA in one place, but then in other places lists most values with a 1000mA current. What size driver would be ideal for these chips? I'm going way oversized on power and think the highest channel (460) will peak around 80%

Thanks again!

LZ1-G at 1000mA is typically 3.6W (3.6V @ 1A)
5 in series would be 18V needed (18W).

You need to subtract about 3V for "overhead" on ldds..
48V ps is only 45V ect,,

To match your design find the highest string voltage..
V(f) at chosen current X Number of diodes.
Don't see any string larger than about 24V so best to use a 36V power supply

LRS Mean Well Enclosed Switching Power Supplies

36V 350W "may" be enough once you figure the "actual" (close really, only way to know for sure is live measurements)

Use LDD dc/dc drivers unless you absolutely need 10v analog or don't want to add extra layer of complexity..

5V PWM dimming control boards are easy and cheap to find/buy/build.

As to "splitting current" sure a 1200mA driver powering 2 series strings will provide 600mA per string
but if one side fails "open" all 1200mA goes to the remaining string..

And remember drivers boost voltage till the mA set-point is reached or you run out of voltage.

AFAICT you can't cut current with resistors in this regard..but ???
VIOSYS
3.7 @ 800ma X8 =24v

16 in a row needs 47.36V + 3V is 50.36 (33.1W (47.36v x .7A) approx)
You can boost the 48V ps to 52.8 V
Theoretically you only need 1 string




After you calculate the total wattage really used make sure the ps has about 10% "extra".

 

[Yodeling]

Like @TDEcoral, I also run the K16s in all my fixtures, which pretty much dictates the LRS 350-48. But pretty much any Meanwell switching PS is good. Coupled with the LDD-H, it's rock solid and reliable (but big). Pick up one of the LDD x-up boards, it will save you some soldering. Steves, LEDGroupBuy, RapidLED, Coralux, all have versions. I like the RapidLED version.

In terms of PS-driver calculations, it's super simple, actually. Determine your desired number of LEDs per spectrum, then based on that, figure out your voltage per driver. You'll want to go about 5-10% lower volts per driver than your maximum on your PS. Then put as many drivers on the PS as the rated wattage will fit, minus 20%.

I'm not familiar with the LZ1 LEDs, but I personally run some LEDs at their maximum rated amps, and some much lower. It depends on the LED and how much I want to push it to get the desired effect on the tank. IMHO it's better to run them at lower Amps with higher volts then the other way around. You can experiment and just plug them into different drivers, crank them up, and see what it looks like. Rinse and repeat with other drivers. If you have the LDD boards, it's literally plug and play.

I'm a bit baffled by the big hole in your spectrum between 420 and 460nm. Personally, I would not skimp on the 450nm peak, in fact my K16s alone can grow acros, I can't say that confidently about any other spectrum peak.

If you're trying to achieve a "small bit of red spectrum", you don't need 3 different LEDs to cover that. Geez. Warm white will give you more than enough red. Anyway, you do you, I will stop pushing my "anti-red" propaganda.

 

[HarryC]

@Yodeling I'm OK with the anti red propaganda! I appreciate discourse with those more knowledgeable than me it's the best way to learn. The reasoning behind 3 red chips was for a nice even spread. I personally am not huge on warm white leds. I did order some warm and cool white in the luxeon C's to test out and see what look I like better. They might make the fixture but I'm still unsure. I've read some info that white leds can "dull" the pop of colors.

Here's my thinking on the blues. The only BIN I can find available in the RB Luxeon C's are rated @ 455-460 wavelength. The LedEngin LZ1 5W blues i ordered are 453-460. Looking at datasheets on the Luxeons it looks like what they call blue is 460-485, whereas these LZ1 blues are much closer to the Luxeon RB. I absolutely want the 30W 453-460 channel to be the dominant one when running this fixture. I'm going to have to look into your K16's as well, I wouldn't mind finding something to add between 420-453. I added a screenshot of the Ledengin blue peak.

 

[Yodeling]

Gotcha. Yeah that peak looks close enough to cover the ~450 for ya. As you know, LED in this range usually have a very sharp drop-off, so I was concerned about your coverage if the peak was actually at 460nm.

Totally understand not liking the warm whites. They are not everyone’s cup of tea.

 

[HarryC]

You can import spectrums quite easily if you want..
Webplotdigitizer to get data.
Notepad++ to clean data and generate a txt file.
Need to start at 380 no matter.
attached an example below of luxeon z diodes.

Once I get the data into a txt file, how do I go about importing that into spectra?

 

[oreo54]

Once I get the data into a txt file, how do I go about importing that into spectra?

Go to spectra...
Clear: data: file ...
Pick file, see that preview is ok, add beam angle and lumens.

Save.

 

[HarryC]

Well after much tweaking and searching, I've ordered a ton more diodes and changed my arrays again. Mostly because I found this Luxeon Rubix line. First mouser order arrives Friday, and I just ordered the Rubix in Lime, RB, and Blue. Will update after the weekend with test results from the LED Engin chips. Working array draft that'll definitely change a bunch more times.

 

[danielch2008]

IMHO, the Semileds are a good choice, but I personally would add some 420-430s (and maybe drop the 390s or 410s if you want to save a driver/channel). For RB, I prefer Luxeon (ES, M, or K if you can find still them), or Cree XT-E. To my eye, the Phillips tend to run a bit "purpler" than the Crees, but they should both be in the 450nm ballpark.

The blue is fine, and the cyan/green will balance out your spectrum nicely with so many violets. I would totally drop the reds and ambers and throw some warm white in there instead. I'm not a fan of reds. The luxeon 4000k is ok, but personally I would go warmer and higher CRI. Bridgelux makes some nice high CRI COBs.

Just my opinion.

Btw, I've been building DIY LED fixtures since 2014(ish) for all my tanks. Initially to save costs, but it actually ends up costing about the same as mid/high-end vendor fixtures LOL. My latest one runs on a DIY ESP32 controller using my own custom code with an imitation AI GUI, and using 32 drivers to power 6 channels.

Good luck.

Hi , can you tell with did DIY ESP32 controller using my own custom code ? I am doing any more or less this. With 8 channel, power 56v, 4 pucks

 

[oreo54]

Hi , can you tell with did DIY ESP32 controller using my own custom code ? I am doing any more or less this. With 8 channel, power 56v, 4 pucks

You may want to check this thread out..

ESP32 - AQma WiFi LED Control - 8 x LED Channels, 3 x SSR. FOR FREE!

A new, completely changed version of the AQma WiFi LED Control lighting controller . Management of the entire functionality from the level of the WEB interface. It needs ESP32 and RTC DS3231 clock to work. For soft, diagrams, etc., please visit: Sterownik oświetlenia – AQMA WiFi LED CONTROL |...

forums.reefcentral.com