DIY stand for 40 breeder - question

Snitch

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Hey all - I want to build a "open concept / skeleton frame" stand for a 40 breeder. Similar to what folks do with steel stands, but with wood. The tank is a typical 40 breeder and will be sumpless so the bottom shelf area is for whatever.

I'd like to use what's commonly available at Lowes or Home Depot - probably something like 3" x 3" solid Poplar or Oak (2-1/2" x 2-1/2" actual dimension). I would allow for a top panel, a back panel and a bottom shelf on the frame, but don't want side panels or front doors or anything like that. The bottom area would be for whatever the wife wants to put there.

I made a quick sketch as to what I was thinking - top and back panels, and bottom shelf are removed to just show the frame.

I'm by far not an engineer or anything but from reading that a lot of people overbuild stands, I'd like to try this to be clean and simple.

Thoughts?

stand.jpg
 
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Snitch

Snitch

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yeah - that's my concern as well - i was hoping that if I put a plywood top, back and shelf that it might help stabilize it / keep it from wanting to twist or rack.
 

hwntunda

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Here’s a quick stand I made for a 40b 4x4s legs coped out for 2x4s to spread out the load. Probably overkill but was solid as heck!!
23EFE147-DC6D-48F6-9B3E-D223721F8750.jpeg
 

hwntunda

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How are you joining the pieces?
Predrilled holes attached with grabber screws. You can see how the legs were coped for the the horizontal runs (top and bottom) with screw heads in pic.
 

jsker

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Hey all - I want to build a "open concept / skeleton frame" stand for a 40 breeder. Similar to what folks do with steel stands, but with wood. The tank is a typical 40 breeder and will be sumpless so the bottom shelf area is for whatever.

I'd like to use what's commonly available at Lowes or Home Depot - probably something like 3" x 3" solid Poplar or Oak (2-1/2" x 2-1/2" actual dimension). I would allow for a top panel, a back panel and a bottom shelf on the frame, but don't want side panels or front doors or anything like that. The bottom area would be for whatever the wife wants to put there.

I made a quick sketch as to what I was thinking - top and back panels, and bottom shelf are removed to just show the frame.

I'm by far not an engineer or anything but from reading that a lot of people overbuild stands, I'd like to try this to be clean and simple.

Thoughts?

stand.jpg

If you use overlap joinery for the top and bottom rails with a Dowling system, I see no problem. To keep the stand from twisting look at adding 45's in the corners.

It you have the tooling, mortis and tenon the bottom rails and over lap joint the tops with dowels and the 45's will not be required and you will have a rock solid stand.

Great concept:)
 

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