DIY stand issue

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reefer_87

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I ordered a new Seapora 120 gallon (48*24) aquarium. I had to end up making my own stand in short time last week (long story short- the stand I got made from someone where I accounted for an overflow is unstable and useless and so this new stand in picture I made but I did not account for the overflow and hence I am 1 inch short I guess)
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I realize the bottom drilled tank has holes that interferes with the return (trying to cut but I assume it might take more removal of material )

I wonder if the 2*4 vertically (the one that is chipped) has any load bearing? Because I have two more vertical 2*6 s between the horizontal 2*4 s that take the brunt of the weight and this 2*4 just holds them in place. Someone please help me if I can cut it away or if I need to brace this in someway using angled brackets?
 
Looks exactly like my cabinet makers work and the only real worry I can see is will you have enough room to tighten the bulkhead underneath once you put the tank on it? Some people put the bulkhead on first before they lift the tank on, but that will hold, ime.
 
Looks exactly like my cabinet makers work and the only real worry I can see is will you have enough room to tighten the bulkhead underneath once you put the tank on it? Some people put the bulkhead on first before they lift the tank on, but that will hold, ime.
This is my first piece of wood working. Theoretically I felt the weight will first transfer vertically down from 2*4 to the 2*6 but was not sure. Thanks for confirming. I left 1 more inch along the width (it’s a 48.5*25) so the bulk head could fit tight with a flexible pvc. I will see. It’s far from done and will figure out as I keep the tank on the stand later this weekend.
 
I recommend getting a small pocket hole jig, using pocket screws to join the outside legs to the top and bottom frames, then remove the inner piece entirely.
Thanks Rocket engineer. If I leave it hanging with a reduced height (cut off 1-2 inches height for the overflow) and still drive a pocket hole in the back support (2*6 alone), is that going to make it work? I have glued the 2*6 s to the 2*4 in the middle and I wonder if that is going to rip things if I try breaking it.
 
Thanks Rocket engineer. If I leave it hanging with a reduced height (cut off 1-2 inches height for the overflow) and still drive a pocket hole in the back support (2*6 alone), is that going to make it work? I have glued the 2*6 s to the 2*4 in the middle and I wonder if that is going to rip things if I try breaking it.
Depending on the glue used sometimes a 2 by will split before the glue fails if you have an oscillating cut off tool it would make pretty easy work of it tho
 
you should be ok...but in case you stress out, just add a sister 2x2 along the side of the damaged 2x4.....
 
Alright. Thanks all. I cut up the vertical 2*4 at the back so that it looks like a 1*2 at the top down to about 6 inches and then extends out in full. Planning to add pocket screws to the 2*6 to secure to the top and bottom frames. Also planning to add 3/4 plywood sheathing behind for supporting the top and bottom frames. I guess that should be plenty to keep it going I guess.
 
Got some time to work on it this weekend. Cut out the 2*4 to allow for the drain. Pocket hole screws (2.5 inches) on 2*6 to secure them to the top and bottom of the stand. Added a 3/4 plywood partially to take the load at the back secured through pocket screws to the top and bottom, and allowing gaps on either side for plumbing. Thanks all.
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