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Yes big downside as in a canister it forces water to go through the media . The other way you mentioned could allow water to pass around it and wouldn’t be as effective.What is the difference between running your DI resin in a filter vessel and in a mesh bag in the ATO container? I am going to get a supplementary stage for my RO system, but I was thinking that if there is no difference I could simply keep the DI resin in the ATO container and keep it always filled with RO water. Any downside from that?
What is the difference between running your DI resin in a filter vessel and in a mesh bag in the ATO container? I am going to get a supplementary stage for my RO system, but I was thinking that if there is no difference I could simply keep the DI resin in the ATO container and keep it always filled with RO water. Any downside from that?
I understand everyone it’s just answering the question that you are asking But I find it strange that no one pointed out to you that your ICP test shows zero nitrates and phosphates. I’m pretty sure no matter what having zero Nutrients is gonna be your problem why your corals do not do so well more so than silicates or anything elseWell I feel stupid now. Found out I have Amphidinium dinoflagellates and the guideline is to add sodium silicate solution to increase diatoms. How come I had dino already when I was using silicate rich RO? I also never noticed diatom growth.
If say I added 1 liter of water with the ATO every day, I was adding 400 ug/l. For 100 liters of water it would mean 4ppm every day right? I really struggle to understand..
The reason is that the ICP test I reported here was from my RO water..I understand everyone it’s just answering the question that you are asking But I find it strange that no one pointed out to you that your ICP test shows zero nitrates and phosphates. I’m pretty sure no matter what having zero Nutrients is gonna be your problem why your corals do not do so well more so than silicates or anything else
Sorry I missed thatThe reason is that the ICP test I reported here was from my RO water..
Nevertheless I was around 2 ppm. As a course of action against amphidinium I am raising nitrates to 10-15ppm and Phosphates to 0.05-0.1ppm . Which is annoying because I had to fight for months to bring them down for battling GHA.
Well I feel stupid now. Found out I have Amphidinium dinoflagellates and the guideline is to add sodium silicate solution to increase diatoms. How come I had dino already when I was using silicate rich RO? I also never noticed diatom growth.
If say I added 1 liter of water with the ATO every day, I was adding 400 ug/l. For 100 liters of water it would mean 4ppm every day right? I really struggle to understand..
Uups rookie mistake I forgot that it would dilute in the tank. I would need around 100 ug/l to cause a bloom right?Your math is off.
If the top off is 400 ppb (ug/L) and you add 1% daily, you are only adding 4 ppb, not 1 ppm. That's not very much.
Dosing silicate is also one way that may help with dions, but it is not necessarily going to prevent dinos if conditions are right.
Uups rookie mistake I forgot that it would dilute in the tank. I would need around 100 ug/l to cause a bloom right?
In the end I did go the way of RO system with a separate DI stage (from dupla) filled with Fauna Marin resin. I get 2-3 dS/m, which is not perfect, but the tank seems thriving so I am happy this way.DI is extremely necessary in my opinion. Without DI, you may face some water quality issues that can lead to disaster. Go with high quality resin vs. cheap resin. The cost difference is not very different between the cheapest stuff vs. the highest quality. Bulk DI and filling your own DI is the best way to go