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- Dec 11, 2019
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- Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I’m a big believer in oversized uv alsoI make it a point to reef so small that any misbehavior results in a 300% water change...a benefit of pico reefs lol (not any invader can withstand that, its why no picos have dino issues on the web)
but if I had a large reef where I couldnt do a total water change, Id have a pond sterilizer plumbed in, a grossly oversized UV. UV is nice here in that if he does rip cleans it burns out casted up cells in suspension from manual work, not just diurnal habits if any. I personally wouldnt try and fix it with a sandbed in place, too hard and takes too long work threads show.
I could run a UV. I have a pump (separate from return) plumbed into a manifold. On the manifold is a GIANT bio-pellet reactor (I don't think I'll ever run again), a GFO reactor (I'll likely never run again), and a GAC reactor. I could disconnect the Bio-pellet reactor and plumb the UV in it's place. But I think I'll try the other methods firstI’m a big believer in oversized uv also
That’s plumbed into the 24 gal cube but will go on my 180 when I get the floors redone in the house
Like I said earlier UV is only helpful for certain strains of dino that go water borne in the dark. The microscope will help. Some biodiversity will help alsoI could run a UV. I have a pump (separate from return) plumbed into a manifold. On the manifold is a GIANT bio-pellet reactor (I don't think I'll ever run again), a GFO reactor (I'll likely never run again), and a GAC reactor. I could disconnect the Bio-pellet reactor and plumb the UV in it's place. But I think I'll try the other methods first
Right. I have a microscope coming in on Sunday, and will take a photo and try to get a ID. For now I am dosing daily microbacter7 with lights out. Peroxide is on the table. And Phyto and pods are likely. The UV is more of a last resort in my mind.Like I said earlier UV is only helpful for certain strains of dino that go water borne in the dark. The microscope will help. Some biodiversity will help also
I am documenting my fight with Dino's. Tank info, Tank is 125 Gallon, 55 Gallon sump, Reef Octopus Regal 200INT, 4 Kessil A360X's, somewhere around 115 pounds of live rock (mostly Fiji, a Pukani), about a 2" sand bed of standard sand, currently running as FOWLER. A few years back I had a bad algae problem, hair algae, all kinds of algae. My nitrates and phosphates were super high, I think NO3 was maybe as high as 30. Phosphates were WAY WAY over what the red sea kit could even test for. I then started using GFO which with GFO and using the high resolution red sea test kit I could finally get a reading. I think it was still like maybe 4 (yes 4, not .4). I then bought a large Reef octopus bio-pellet reactor. Even after I brought the bio-pellet reactor online, I continued to run GFO. Between the bio-pellet reactor and GFO, my NO3 dropped to I think about 4, and PO3 dropped to maybe .1. Tank started looking great. I thought I had fixed everything, stopped testing. Then maybe a year later everything started, started getting cyano. Problem was light but annoying. I tried correcting it with water changes. Never realizing that my NO3 had bottomed out to zero, and my PO4 to .1. I thought this was a good thing so I never considered it part of the problem. I then proceeded to use Chem-clean. Which wiped out the cyano, but within a day or two ushered in my new nemesis, Dino's. At this time (about sep 2019), I had no idea even what Dino's were. I sent away a Triton ICP test and it came back really high levels of Copper (40ppb) and a few other metals. So I thought the metals were my problem. So I dealt with the metals issue, but the DINOS persisted. I eventually came across the DINO thread on Reef2Reef. And that brings me to this week. My rock was so encrusted with dinos, my sand so covered, and the tank so covered, I knew I had to manually remove as much as I could.
How are you measuring PO4 (Hanna ULR phosphate?). I would aim a little higher on PO4 at 0.06 to 0.10. For nitrate, 5-10. Adding biodiversity seems to help. Strongly agree with trying to get an ID, if your strain is amphidinium you would be pretty much wasting your money on UV.Update. After going home from work I dosed microbacter7 again and tested NO3 and PO4. NO3 was 4ppm and PO4 was .01ppm. So I dosed NO3 to add 2ppm. And to add .04ppm to PO4. So I should be at 6ppm nitrate, and .05 phosphate. Confused why Nitrate sits pretty stable with only occasionally having to dose, and phosphate keeps bottoming out. On the plus side the there looks to be less dino on the sand bed. And what is there looks stringtier. I'll try and get a picture. I should also note I turned up both mp40s 2 nights ago
You hit the nail on the head right there. Can you switch rocks out with one from a different tank?lack of diversity.
Yes, hannah ULR, and Red sea Nitrate test. My Nitrate should have been 6ppm after I dosed last night. PO4 should have been .05ppm. I agree it should be higher, but brightwell's directions for NEOPHOS said to not add more then .04 per day. I would like to get my PO4 closer to .1How are you measuring PO4 (Hanna ULR phosphate?). I would aim a little higher on PO4 at 0.06 to 0.10. For nitrate, 5-10. Adding biodiversity seems to help. Strongly agree with trying to get an ID, if your strain is amphidinium you would be pretty much wasting your money on UV.
I saw his video on this last week. If I can't ID it myself, I think I will do this.Go to fishofhex.com. You can send a water sample and he will identify the type of Dino you have and recommend the best way to resolve the problem. I think it’s like 29 bucks.
I have Dino’s too.