Does my blue hippo tang have Ich?

JerseyReefer

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I just noticed this yesterday on my blue hippo tang. I've had him for over 6 months but I added a few Lyretail Anthias a few weeks ago which may have introduced something. All fish are eating well and behaving normal. Please help!!!

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JerseyReefer

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Thanks! I just picked up some medicated food and will setup a hospital tank today with some live rock from my sump. Got the copper treatment and corresponding test kit as well.

Next gotta rig up a trap for these little guys!
 

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For what it's worth at this point, I agree this is ich. Good luck getting them all into QT! Keep us posted on how they do :)
 
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Ok guys, here's an update and some help needed. It took me 3 days to catch her but a pretty nifty DIY trap out of a plastic bottle, zip lock bag and fishing line did the trick.

I put her in a 10 gallon tank with heater, 20-30 gallon filter (no carbon), and some live rock. I took 4 days to get the tank up to 0.5 copper but literally after the first day all the white Ich spots disappeared.

I've been testing nitrates and ammonia every day. Today I noticed ammonia registered at 0.25. So I did a 50% water change and ensured copper was at the same level. I added a circulation pump because I felt I wasn't getting enough circulation. I originally tried a wave maker which was way too powerful for the tank size. The smaller pump seems to be working more appropriately.

Since I did this she is out swimming around more and eating better. My question though is that she's still not behaving as she did before the switch. Could this be ammonia and/or flow? Lack of eating? I'm convinced I'm on the right track to get rid of the Ich but I don't want to cause her other harm. Any advice based on what I've shared??? Thanks so much as always!
 
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JerseyReefer

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I'm using API so perhaps that explains it. An hour after the water change and new flow pattern she seemed more normal. I'll keep testing and doing changes as necessary. I'll see if I can get a Seachem kit. What other parameters should I be checking that API won't catch?

Another thought... what about lighting? I have places for her to hide and I blacked out 2 sides of the tank. Just want to make sure she has a healthy environment.
 

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What other parameters should I be checking that API won't catch?

Keeping ammonia 0 and the copper level stable are your two primary concerns. A Seachem ammonia alert badge would be useful; but it's also a good idea to double check using a test kit if possible. One advantage of using Cupramine is you have the luxury of using a Seachem ammonia test kit with it. Most other brands/types of copper will render standard ammonia test kits useless.

Another thought... what about lighting? I have places for her to hide and I blacked out 2 sides of the tank. Just want to make sure she has a healthy environment.

I prefer subdued lighting for QT.
 
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JerseyReefer

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Great, thanks!!! I'm using the Seachem copper test so I'll go to the LFS and pick up an ammonia badge and/or kit. I'll avoid any new lighting, I'm sure she'd rather not be blasted by light in a 10 tank.
 
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JerseyReefer

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The water in the HT turned cloudy today. I'm going to add an airstone for oxygenation because I assume it's an algae bloom. However my LFS said it's probably because my live rock is dying off from the copper and I should remove it. What do you think? If my rock is dying then what do I use for filtration in a copper treated tank?
 

Humblefish

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What do you think? If my rock is dying then what do I use for filtration in a copper treated tank?

Anything living on or inside the rock (corals, microfauna) would be dying, and that could cause cloudy water or even an ammonia spike. :eek:

The bacteria in the rock will experience some die-off as well, but bacteria are extremely resilient and their populations will adapt to the presence of copper & bounce back.
 
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JerseyReefer

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Anything living on or inside the rock (corals, microfauna) would be dying, and that could cause cloudy water or even an ammonia spike. :eek:

The bacteria in the rock will experience some die-off as well, but bacteria are extremely resilient and their populations will adapt to the presence of copper & bounce back.

Makes sense. Today the tank cleared up and the ammonia level is still good.

I notice she's not eating much and just hiding. I assume she's not comfortable in the new tank. I'll continue monitoring so she stays healthy.
 
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Hey guys. It's been a couple weeks and she's looking good. I want to move her back to the DT. Is there a proper process to do this because of the different copper levels in the DT and HT? Thanks!
 

Humblefish

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Hey guys. It's been a couple weeks and she's looking good. I want to move her back to the DT. Is there a proper process to do this because of the different copper levels in the DT and HT? Thanks!

Two problems:
  1. You need to treat with copper for 4 weeks and then observe afterwards to ensure symptoms of ich do not return.
  2. You should go fallow (fishless) in the DT for 76 days to starve ich out of there.
 

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