Drain for water changes

OCJoeR

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I'm setting up my first tank and will be plumbing it for a Bean Animal sump set up. The tank measures 36"w x 24"h x 12"d (45 gallons). I plan on putting the drain lines on one of the 12" sides with the return line on the opposite side.

I've been thinking about water changes and how to get the water out of the tank and back in. From reading the posts here and other places it looks like I'm going to have to remove about 10-15 gallons of water each change, weekly seems to be the recommendation. My thought was to put a Tee in the main drain line before the flow control valve and have another valve attached to the side of that tee. I could shut the flow valve and pump, open the valve on the inline tee to drain the tank. I'd put a nipple on the valve with a hose thread so I could attach a garden hose. I'm thinking what I would need would be an extension on the main drain elbow that is inside the tank in order to get it low enough to drain the water. As I'm seeing it the Bean Animal main drain has an elbow, pointing down, that sits just at where you want the water level. If the water is allowed to drain from that line it would stop as soon as it hits the bottom of the elbow. If I slipped a section of pipe onto that elbow that went down to where the 15 gallon level was it should drain down to that level. I've attached a drawing that looks like a 5 year old did it but it's the best I can do. I could never get Sketch Up to work. Any thought on this idea?

My next question has to do with getting the water back into the tank or sump. I'll have the water mixed and in 5 gallon buckets. Should this water be put into the sump or directly into the tank? If it should go through the sump I guess I'll have to rig something up to get the water from the bucket to the sump. My sump sits in the cabinet below the tank but there isn't a whole lot of clearance so I'd have to either put a pump in the bucket with a line to the sump or just put a drain line into the bottom of the bucket and set the bucket on something and allow it to drain into the sump.

Since I'm building all this myself I'll probably have a ton more questions but I'm going to try and get the tank plumbed this weekend so I thought I'd start here.

Thanks for any help,
Joe

Drain.jpg
 
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OCJoeR

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OK, so I'm on my third cup of coffee and still thinking about this whole water change routine and wondering if my above idea is way too much work. Wouldn't lowering a submersible pump into the tank to pump out that water and using the same pump in the bucket to pump the new water into the sump work just as well without all the extra plumbing? I think I need more coffee.
 

mike550

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@OCJoeR I do a 15G water change each week, and have two methods for water changes. First, I use a small Lifegard Aquatics submersible that I hang into the tank (about half way down) using a u-shaped PVC pipe connected to a hose to pump the water out. When I’m done, I just drop the same pump into a Brute and pump the fresh saltwater back in. Second method is when I want to clean the sand bed or rock I remove water with a python. But still use the same pump to put in fresh saltwater.

Would your layout allow for auto water changes?
 
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OCJoeR

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Hi Mike,

I like the pvc hanger idea. I'm not sure what is needed for auto water changes.

Joe
 

Reeflux

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I'm setting up my first tank and will be plumbing it for a Bean Animal sump set up. The tank measures 36"w x 24"h x 12"d (45 gallons). I plan on putting the drain lines on one of the 12" sides with the return line on the opposite side.

I've been thinking about water changes and how to get the water out of the tank and back in. From reading the posts here and other places it looks like I'm going to have to remove about 10-15 gallons of water each change, weekly seems to be the recommendation. My thought was to put a Tee in the main drain line before the flow control valve and have another valve attached to the side of that tee. I could shut the flow valve and pump, open the valve on the inline tee to drain the tank. I'd put a nipple on the valve with a hose thread so I could attach a garden hose. I'm thinking what I would need would be an extension on the main drain elbow that is inside the tank in order to get it low enough to drain the water. As I'm seeing it the Bean Animal main drain has an elbow, pointing down, that sits just at where you want the water level. If the water is allowed to drain from that line it would stop as soon as it hits the bottom of the elbow. If I slipped a section of pipe onto that elbow that went down to where the 15 gallon level was it should drain down to that level. I've attached a drawing that looks like a 5 year old did it but it's the best I can do. I could never get Sketch Up to work. Any thought on this idea?

My next question has to do with getting the water back into the tank or sump. I'll have the water mixed and in 5 gallon buckets. Should this water be put into the sump or directly into the tank? If it should go through the sump I guess I'll have to rig something up to get the water from the bucket to the sump. My sump sits in the cabinet below the tank but there isn't a whole lot of clearance so I'd have to either put a pump in the bucket with a line to the sump or just put a drain line into the bottom of the bucket and set the bucket on something and allow it to drain into the sump.

Since I'm building all this myself I'll probably have a ton more questions but I'm going to try and get the tank plumbed this weekend so I thought I'd start here.

Thanks for any help,
Joe

Drain.jpg
I would put a small bulkhead fitting in your overflow weir. The side facing the inside of the tank will be a strainer, the side inside the weir will be a connect fitting for any size hose you want, with a small valve on it. Anytime you want to do a water change just open the valve. It will pull from inside the tank.
 

Hugh Mann

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I was going to suggest just using a submersible pump myself. They're cheap, and you don't have to add anything extra.

That's honestly my plan with my 230 gallon.
 

Reeflux

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Yea that's fine... only issue is you have to kind of fashion it to the side of the tank so it doesn't take up any sand by falling to the ground.

Put it on a rock maybe.
 

Chrysemys

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Submersible pump is the way to go. When I do a water change it is usually about 100g, so submersible pump is necessary. Recommend running some math on your tank and your mixing chamber to know how much to take out and how much to put in. In other words, knowing every 1” of water I take out of my tank is equal to x number of inches from my mixing chamber. Saves a lot of guess work.
 
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mike550

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Hi Mike,

I like the pvc hanger idea. I'm not sure what is needed for auto water changes.

Joe
The PVC hanger is super simple. There are plenty of posts around setting up auto water changes or AWC. I like the idea but not one that I could do even if I wanted to because of the tank’s location.
 

Eggs

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My next question has to do with getting the water back into the tank or sump. Drain.jpg

I had a 150g setup at one time and set up and water change system with something similar to remove old water out of the tank (used a T with valves to redirect drain water).

To replenish I utilized my ATO to refill with new saltwater.
I placed the ATO pump into new saltwater container; as the sump water level dropped due to the old water draining out of the system, the ATO would kick in and replenish with new saltwater.
 

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