Filtration for 125g non drilled tank

dreamcatcherr9

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I have a freshwater tank I am debating on one day converting to saltwater. Obviously the old equipment would be tossed and only a bare glass tank and stand would remain (it was cichlids tank ran with fx6 canister and 3 emperor 400 bio wheel power filters).

Note: the stand’s inside cabinet to house filter is only 15”x18”x26”.

Starting from a blank slate (empty and cleaned glass tank on stand).

I would need: sand, rocks, heaters, wave makers / power heads, protein skimmer, maybe an ato and the lights of course. But most importantly, what could I use to run main filtration.

Being a non drilled tank, and not having much room for a sump (?), could I run with a canister filter (new) and a couple new power filters?

That’s how I ran my first tanks, but they FOWLR, I debate on being able to go Reef tank someday, so I want to plan ahead.

Any thoughts and opinions would be greatly suggested.
 

KenRexford

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CPR CS-202 plumbed as a Herbie overflow to a sump with filter sock, refugoum, and protein skimmer. That's my non-drilled 125 setip. Keep the Emperor 400, as did I.
 

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You could drill the tank for an over flow. Then run the lines to a glass tank made into a sump. It is pretty easy to make partitions with glass panes held in place by silicon caulk.

I would not use a canister filter unless you are willing to clean it out often like 2 or 3 times per week.

Your sump does not have to be in the same room as the tank. My auto top off reservoir is in the room next to the tank. I just run the tubing from the reservoir to the sump beneath the tank. Or you could put the sump next to the tank in a cabinet to disguise it.

A sump would allow you to have a filter sock. Filter socks are nice for removing particulates, but being mechanical removal they really should be cleaned at least twice per week.

A sump allows for a protein skimmer. For a 125, you want a protein skimmer rated at about 180 gallons.

And the auto top off can be run out of the return chamber. You would also put your heater into the sump.

But doing the above is just a possible scheme. It might not be feasible for you.
 

Mark

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I would drill the tank and get a different stand that would accommodate a nice sized sump.

If that is not an option I would run Tunze’s comline skimmer and comline filter in the tank.
 

piranhaman00

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You don’t need a sump do run a reef tank. You can keep all the same equipment just put salt in the water :)

Sumps are very beneficial though. I use life reef overflow boxes on a 180 not drilled. Look into those.
 

KenRexford

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dreamcatcherr9

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You could drill the tank for an over flow. Then run the lines to a glass tank made into a sump. It is pretty easy to make partitions with glass panes held in place by silicon caulk.

I would not use a canister filter unless you are willing to clean it out often like 2 or 3 times per week.

Your sump does not have to be in the same room as the tank. My auto top off reservoir is in the room next to the tank. I just run the tubing from the reservoir to the sump beneath the tank. Or you could put the sump next to the tank in a cabinet to disguise it.

A sump would allow you to have a filter sock. Filter socks are nice for removing particulates, but being mechanical removal they really should be cleaned at least twice per week.

A sump allows for a protein skimmer. For a 125, you want a protein skimmer rated at about 180 gallons.

And the auto top off can be run out of the return chamber. You would also put your heater into the sump.

But doing the above is just a possible scheme. It might not be feasible for you.
Thank you. No drilling, but I could use an overflow box. Keeping old stand saves money spent elsewhere, I did find some small sump options that may work. Appreciate the time you took to respond!
 
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dreamcatcherr9

dreamcatcherr9

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You don’t need a sump do run a reef tank. You can keep all the same equipment just put salt in the water :)

Sumps are very beneficial though. I use life reef overflow boxes on a 180 not drilled. Look into those.
I really don’t think I can keep the freshwater equipment. It’s all well established with the wrong type of bacteria; “just put salt in water” is a bit of an over simplification (?). Maybe if everything was cleaned and sterilized properly, but the bio wheels themselves are a toss. The canister filter is a toss. Maybe the heaters and power heads I could keep (but power heads would need an upgrade). Thank you though for the advice. A clean start is more expensive with new equipment. At least I can save on not buying a new tank and stand.
 
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dreamcatcherr9

dreamcatcherr9

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CPR CS-202 plumbed as a Herbie overflow to a sump with filter sock, refugoum, and protein skimmer. That's my non-drilled 125 setip. Keep the Emperor 400, as did I.
One more question please. “CPR CS-202 plumbed as a Herbie overflow”. Would this be done by simply adding an extension to one of the inlet pipes be be higher than water overflow level? Did that make sense (I am probably completely off). Please, and additional info would be greatly appreciated.
 

KenRexford

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One more question please. “CPR CS-202 plumbed as a Herbie overflow”. Would this be done by simply adding an extension to one of the inlet pipes be be higher than water overflow level? Did that make sense (I am probably completely off). Please, and additional info would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, essentially. Use strainer on main drain plys gate valve.
 
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